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On Oct 12, 9:39*pm, (David Combs) wrote:
Well, water heater's bottom (near pilot light) is getting rusted out, inner "door" is like a quarter eaten away (is no longer rectangular), is 15 years old. (Was looking in home-repair book, described how water heater works (fairly obvious!), except learned about something called the "sacrificial anode" -- so I guess that's gone, no hope for the water heater to last. *Also, drip drip drip. So, what's out there? * Anything decent available these days? Thanks! David They're all pretty much the same (probably made by the same handful of companies) unless you go to something real high end with a stainless steel tank or similar. Just look for something with a long warranty and/or multiple anodes. Also I don't know if they still have them or not but I prefer a tank with a standing pilot - that way if the power goes off you can still have a hot shower. Finally I recommend before you even fill the new tank to replace the drain valve with something a little more robust - I used a dielectric nipple, a 3/4" ball valve, a 3/4" MPT to male garden hose adapter, and a brass garden hose cap to make one for mine. Something like this: http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pag...r-heaters.html but made from stuff I had laying around and/or purchased at my local plumbing store. When we moved into the house, I thought a good thing to do would be to flush all the water heaters (I have three) - not a good idea! every single drain valve failed in one fashion or another. Fortunately I have only had to replace one tank, although of course that one was the one upstairs in the garage and I didn't realize it'd failed until water started coming through the ceiling below. Whoops. New tank has a proper drain pan under it, you betcha. Which reminds me, it's about time for the annual water heater flush... nate |
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