We're getting ready to get our new kitchen cabinets and want to pre-
wire for the under cabinet lights. We're going to tap into the power
off the light switch that currently runs only the light above the sink
and add in a single gang double switch so the sink light and the under
cabinet lights run independently. The cabinets will be coming with
light kit molding that will run around the bottom edge of the wall
units.

The question is where we run the wires to the lights, how do we come
out of the wall? We are planning on four (4) outlets to the lights as
the wall units are on two walls and one wall is divided by the kitchen
sink, the other wall is divided by the stove/over stove microwave. I
am looking at two choices. First, just run the 14/2 Romex out small
holes in the drywall at a position that should be just below the edge
of the wall units, leave enough wire to connect and leave that hanging
until ready to run. Secondly is to mount 2X4 boxes against wall studs
recessed into the walls and either put a single round hole faceplate
(like for a cable TV coax plug) and run the wire into the box and do
the connection in the wall. Or wire actual 120VAC outlets and just
put plugs on the lights.

We're kind of torn on which way to go but we're ready to wire so we
need to decide quick.

Thanks!!!!

On 7/25/2008 12:15 PM infiniteMPG spake thus:

We're getting ready to get our new kitchen cabinets and want to pre-
wire for the under cabinet lights. We're going to tap into the power
off the light switch that currently runs only the light above the
sink and add in a single gang double switch so the sink light and the
under cabinet lights run independently. The cabinets will be coming
with light kit molding that will run around the bottom edge of the
wall units.

The question is where we run the wires to the lights, how do we come
out of the wall? We are planning on four (4) outlets to the lights as
the wall units are on two walls and one wall is divided by the kitchen
sink, the other wall is divided by the stove/over stove microwave. I
am looking at two choices. First, just run the 14/2 Romex out small
holes in the drywall at a position that should be just below the edge
of the wall units, leave enough wire to connect and leave that hanging
until ready to run.

This would be my preference (assuming it's kosher according to code,
which I *believe* it is, but of course you have an architect and a
licensed electrician to assure you on that, right?). Thing to do is to
make sure the cables come out in the right place so they can go directly
into the cable entrance for the fixture, which is considered a closed
unit according to code.

Secondly is to mount 2X4 boxes against wall studs recessed into the
walls and either put a single round hole faceplate (like for a cable
TV coax plug) and run the wire into the box and do the connection in
the wall. Or wire actual 120VAC outlets and just put plugs on the
lights.

I wouldn't mess with any of these other options. Much more work,
unnecessary and messy.


--
"Wikipedia ... it reminds me ... of dogs barking idiotically through
endless nights. It is so bad that a sort of grandeur creeps into it.
It drags itself out of the dark abyss of pish, and crawls insanely up
the topmost pinnacle of posh. It is rumble and bumble. It is flap and
doodle. It is balder and dash."

- With apologies to H. L. Mencken

On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 12:15:07 -0700, infiniteMPG wrote:

We're getting ready to get our new kitchen cabinets and want to pre-
wire for the under cabinet lights. We're going to tap into the power
off the light switch that currently runs only the light above the sink
and add in a single gang double switch so the sink light and the under
cabinet lights run independently. The cabinets will be coming with
light kit molding that will run around the bottom edge of the wall
units.

The question is where we run the wires to the lights, how do we come out
of the wall? We are planning on four (4) outlets to the lights as the
wall units are on two walls and one wall is divided by the kitchen sink,
the other wall is divided by the stove/over stove microwave. I am
looking at two choices. First, just run the 14/2 Romex out small holes
in the drywall at a position that should be just below the edge of the
wall units, leave enough wire to connect and leave that hanging until
ready to run. Secondly is to mount 2X4 boxes against wall studs
recessed into the walls and either put a single round hole faceplate
(like for a cable TV coax plug) and run the wire into the box and do the
connection in the wall. Or wire actual 120VAC outlets and just put
plugs on the lights.

We're kind of torn on which way to go but we're ready to wire so we need
to decide quick.

Thanks!!!!

I put in lights beneath the wall cabinets. I made a 1/2" hole in the
wall for the Romex and then attached it to each light fixture using a
suitable Romex connector. Once connected, I mounted the lights to the
cabinets. Now, my fixtures were 18" fluorescent fixtures each with its
own switch.

If I were to do it over, I'd opt for low voltage lights. I'd put the
transformer in an out of the way location and then run wires to each
fixture.



--

=================================================
Franz Fripplfrappl

I put in lights beneath the wall cabinets. *I made a 1/2" hole in the wall for the Romex and then attached it to each light fixture using a
suitable Romex connector. *Once connected, I mounted the lights to the
cabinets. *Now, my fixtures were 18" fluorescent fixtures each with
its own switch.

We are going to run the wiring so the switch on the wall that controls
the ceiling lights will be a double switch, one to control the ceiling
lights and one to control the under cabinet lights. When the Romex is
pulled out of the wall it's okay to just leave the wire pulled thru a
hole? No strain relief of anything? I feel kind of dumb asking that
when the original contractor pulled the wire for the oven vent thru a
hole they obviously punched thru the sheetrock with a hammer :O/
hehehehe

If I were to do it over, I'd opt for low voltage lights. *I'd put the transformer in an out of the way location and then run wires to each fixture..

Thought about that but then the light switch would have to run the
transformer and then the low voltage wires be run to all the lights in
order to use a wall switch to control them all. Probably will replace
the wall switch with a dimmer to control the effect down the road and
don't think I could have that option with 24VDC lights.

Thanks!

On Jul 25, 2:15*pm, infiniteMPG wrote:
We're getting ready to get our new kitchen cabinets and want to pre-
wire for the under cabinet lights. *We're going to tap into the power
off the light switch that currently runs only the light above the sink
and add in a single gang double switch so the sink light and the under
cabinet lights run independently. *The cabinets will be coming with
light kit molding that will run around the bottom edge of the wall
units.

The question is where we run the wires to the lights, how do we come
out of the wall? *We are planning on four (4) outlets to the lights as
the wall units are on two walls and one wall is divided by the kitchen
sink, the other wall is divided by the stove/over stove microwave. *I
am looking at two choices. *First, just run the 14/2 Romex out small
holes in the drywall at a position that should be just below the edge
of the wall units, leave enough wire to connect and leave that hanging
until ready to run. *Secondly is to mount 2X4 boxes against wall studs
recessed into the walls and either put a single round hole faceplate
(like for a cable TV coax plug) and run the wire into the box and do
the connection in the wall. *Or wire actual 120VAC outlets and just
put plugs on the lights.

We're kind of torn on which way to go but we're ready to wire so we
need to decide quick.

Thanks!!!!

I had 3 switched outlets installed above the cabinets on 3 walls
(there is 1 foot of space above the cabinets) these outlets are out of
site when you look up, I plug the LV transformers into there and run
the LV lights wherever I want both above, below and inside some glass
door cabinets. Three wall switches control each wall's cabinet
lighting separately. I prefer LV lighting for on/in cabinets, its
safer.

If you dont have room above for concealed/switched outlets then maybe
your code will allow outlets to be installed directly behind the
cabinets with deeper mud plates so you can trim them inside the
cabinet, this is how I did the outlet for my microwave shelf which is
basically an open cabinet with an outlet.

On 7/25/2008 12:54 PM infiniteMPG spake thus:

I put in lights beneath the wall cabinets. I made a 1/2" hole in
the wall for the Romex and then attached it to each light fixture
using a suitable Romex connector. Once connected, I mounted the
lights to the cabinets. Now, my fixtures were 18" fluorescent
fixtures each with its own switch.

We are going to run the wiring so the switch on the wall that controls
the ceiling lights will be a double switch, one to control the ceiling
lights and one to control the under cabinet lights. When the Romex is
pulled out of the wall it's okay to just leave the wire pulled thru a
hole? No strain relief of anything? I feel kind of dumb asking that
when the original contractor pulled the wire for the oven vent thru a
hole they obviously punched thru the sheetrock with a hammer :O/
hehehehe

The cable should be connected to the fixture using a "suitable Romex
connector" as the person above stated. This is a cable clamp (probably
marked "NM" or some such, for non-metallic cable) that will fit exactly
in the hole provided in the light fixture. This is what you're probably
thinking of as a "strain relief" (basically prevents the cable from
being pulled out of the fixture).


--
"Wikipedia ... it reminds me ... of dogs barking idiotically through
endless nights. It is so bad that a sort of grandeur creeps into it.
It drags itself out of the dark abyss of pish, and crawls insanely up
the topmost pinnacle of posh. It is rumble and bumble. It is flap and
doodle. It is balder and dash."

- With apologies to H. L. Mencken

The cable should be connected to the fixture using a "suitable Romex connector" as the person above stated. This is a cable clamp (probably marked "NM" or some such, for non-metallic cable) that will fit exactly in the hole provided in the light fixture. This is what you're probably thinking of as a "strain relief" (basically prevents the cable from being pulled out of the fixture).

That end I don't have a problem with, it's where the Romex runs from
inside the wall to outside the wall. Just pull it thru a hole? I was
originally thinking a 2X4 box there and then use a single small holed
faceplate to run the wire out. Do you mean to just have like a 3/4"
hole in the sheetrock and have the Romex pull out the hole and then
into the light fixture with a clamping style connector?

Thanks!

On 7/25/2008 1:38 PM infiniteMPG spake thus:

The cable should be connected to the fixture using a "suitable
Romex connector" as the person above stated. This is a cable clamp
(probably marked "NM" or some such, for non-metallic cable) that
will fit exactly in the hole provided in the light fixture. This is
what you're probably thinking of as a "strain relief" (basically
prevents the cable from being pulled out of the fixture).

That end I don't have a problem with, it's where the Romex runs from
inside the wall to outside the wall. Just pull it thru a hole? I was
originally thinking a 2X4 box there and then use a single small holed
faceplate to run the wire out. Do you mean to just have like a 3/4"
hole in the sheetrock and have the Romex pull out the hole and then
into the light fixture with a clamping style connector?

Yes, exactly. No need for a box. Consider the fixture to be the
equivalent of a box with a connector on it.

Not a dumb question at all, by the way.


--
"Wikipedia ... it reminds me ... of dogs barking idiotically through
endless nights. It is so bad that a sort of grandeur creeps into it.
It drags itself out of the dark abyss of pish, and crawls insanely up
the topmost pinnacle of posh. It is rumble and bumble. It is flap and
doodle. It is balder and dash."

- With apologies to H. L. Mencken

On 7/25/2008 1:38 PM infiniteMPG spake thus:

That end I don't have a problem with, it's where the Romex runs from
inside the wall to outside the wall. Just pull it thru a hole? I was
originally thinking a 2X4 box there and then use a single small holed
faceplate to run the wire out. Do you mean to just have like a 3/4"
hole in the sheetrock and have the Romex pull out the hole and then
into the light fixture with a clamping style connector?

I should have added, yes, assuming that there will be none (or only a
little) of the Romex exposed under the cabinet. Ideally, the cable will
run directly into the fixture from the hole in the wall, but if it's
some distance away from the wall, then you have exposed Romex, which is
a no-no. So the correct answer is, it depends on the location of things.

If the fixture is some distance away from the wall, then you might have
to use something else, like MC (metal-clad cable), in which case you'd
have to put a junction box somewhere in the wall to connect the Romex to
the MC.


--
"Wikipedia ... it reminds me ... of dogs barking idiotically through
endless nights. It is so bad that a sort of grandeur creeps into it.
It drags itself out of the dark abyss of pish, and crawls insanely up
the topmost pinnacle of posh. It is rumble and bumble. It is flap and
doodle. It is balder and dash."

- With apologies to H. L. Mencken

I also put switched outlets out of sight above my cabinets. But I used
110V lighting. No transformer. I feel its one less thing to deal with.
The hockey puck lights I bought have 6 foot tail cords on them. What I
did was staple them under the cabinet, then fed the cords up through a
hole I drilled, the cord rides up inside the front corner of the
cabinet where you can't see it, the it goes out of the top through
another hole I drilled where it plugs into the outlet. I actually used
a small 3 outlet extension cord to plug in all the lights. I also have
rope lights on the top. Here are some pics
http://picasaweb.google.com/mikerock...abinetLighting

First pic shows the light and how it goes up through the cabinet
Second pic shows the cord. I pulled it out on purpose to show how it
runs inside the cabinet
Third pic shows it coming out on top
Fourth shows the outlet above the cabinet.

On Fri, 25 Jul 2008, David Nebenzahl wrote:

If the fixture is some distance away from the wall, then you might have
to use something else, like MC (metal-clad cable), in which case you'd
have to put a junction box somewhere in the wall to connect the Romex to
the MC.

I thought having a junction box hidden in an inaccessible location (like
behind a wall) was a no-no.

Don www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On Fri 25 Jul 2008 12:41:45p, David Nebenzahl told us...

On 7/25/2008 12:15 PM infiniteMPG spake thus:

We're getting ready to get our new kitchen cabinets and want to pre-
wire for the under cabinet lights. We're going to tap into the power
off the light switch that currently runs only the light above the
sink and add in a single gang double switch so the sink light and the
under cabinet lights run independently. The cabinets will be coming
with light kit molding that will run around the bottom edge of the
wall units.

The question is where we run the wires to the lights, how do we come
out of the wall? We are planning on four (4) outlets to the lights as
the wall units are on two walls and one wall is divided by the kitchen
sink, the other wall is divided by the stove/over stove microwave. I
am looking at two choices. First, just run the 14/2 Romex out small
holes in the drywall at a position that should be just below the edge
of the wall units, leave enough wire to connect and leave that hanging
until ready to run.

This would be my preference (assuming it's kosher according to code,
which I *believe* it is, but of course you have an architect and a
licensed electrician to assure you on that, right?). Thing to do is to
make sure the cables come out in the right place so they can go directly
into the cable entrance for the fixture, which is considered a closed
unit according to code.

Secondly is to mount 2X4 boxes against wall studs recessed into the
walls and either put a single round hole faceplate (like for a cable
TV coax plug) and run the wire into the box and do the connection in
the wall. Or wire actual 120VAC outlets and just put plugs on the
lights.

I wouldn't mess with any of these other options. Much more work,
unnecessary and messy.



When we had this done in a previous kitchen, we had 12 lights installed.
The wiring came through the wall and through the bottom rail of the cabinet
at the back. The light strips had a knockout at the center of the back of
the fixture, so no wiring was visible at all.

--
Wayne Boatwright
-------------------------------------------
Friday, 07(VII)/25(XXV)/08(MMVIII)
-------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------
Ambiguity is the first refuge of the wrong.
-------------------------------------------

On Sat, 26 Jul 2008, Wayne Boatwright wrote:

When we had this done in a previous kitchen, we had 12 lights installed.
The wiring came through the wall and through the bottom rail of the cabinet
at the back. The light strips had a knockout at the center of the back of
the fixture, so no wiring was visible at all.

So you did not have the light strips at the front of the cabinet?

Don www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On Fri 25 Jul 2008 08:56:32p, Don Wiss told us...

On Sat, 26 Jul 2008, Wayne Boatwright wrote:

When we had this done in a previous kitchen, we had 12 lights installed.
The wiring came through the wall and through the bottom rail of the
cabinet at the back. The light strips had a knockout at the center of
the back of the fixture, so no wiring was visible at all.

So you did not have the light strips at the front of the cabinet?

Don www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).


No, at the back of the cabinet. With the recess under the cabinet, they
could not be seen. We had light colored countertops, so the light spread
well.

--
Wayne Boatwright
-------------------------------------------
Friday, 07(VII)/25(XXV)/08(MMVIII)
-------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------
It doesn't take much; I'm *always*
close to the edge!
-------------------------------------------

infiniteMPG wrote:
We're getting ready to get our new kitchen cabinets and want to pre-
wire for the under cabinet lights. We're going to tap into the power
off the light switch that currently runs only the light above the sink

OK, that gets you the black wire. Where are you going to get the pretty
white one? IOW, what am I misunderstanding?

--

dadiOH
____________________________

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