I'm rewiring my kitchen, and would like to put in under-cabinets lights
to light up the worktop (the cabinets being wall cabinets).

1) How do I actually get the power to these lights? Do I have the grey
wire coming out of the wall, or is there a special socket I should use?

2) I assume I'll need transformers, how are these connected to the
mains, socket or some other way? I want to use a normal light switch to
control these under-lights by the way.

3) Can these be powered off the light circuit?

4) I've never built a kitchen before, is there normally a gap behind
the wall cupboards to run wire down?

Any responses appreciated (obviuosly ones that help )

mkkbb wrote:
I'm rewiring my kitchen, and would like to put in under-cabinets lights
to light up the worktop (the cabinets being wall cabinets).

1) How do I actually get the power to these lights? Do I have the grey
wire coming out of the wall, or is there a special socket I should use?

Mine are wired to a lighting circuit, no plugs/sockets involved,
though you could run them from a socket if you wanted to.


2) I assume I'll need transformers, how are these connected to the
mains, socket or some other way? I want to use a normal light switch to
control these under-lights by the way.

If you use the usual slimline fluorescent fittings they are mains
powered, no transformers.


3) Can these be powered off the light circuit?

Yes, as I said that's what I have done.


4) I've never built a kitchen before, is there normally a gap behind
the wall cupboards to run wire down?

Yes. I managed to take all my wiring for the under cupboard lights up
behind the cupboards and then into the celing void. I took up the
floor above in places to connect them to the lighting circuits and to
enable the under cupboard lights to be operated from the 'switch by
the door'.

--
Chris Green

mkkbb wrote:
I'm rewiring my kitchen, and would like to put in under-cabinets lights
to light up the worktop (the cabinets being wall cabinets).

1) How do I actually get the power to these lights? Do I have the grey
wire coming out of the wall, or is there a special socket I should use?

2) I assume I'll need transformers, how are these connected to the
mains, socket or some other way? I want to use a normal light switch to
control these under-lights by the way.

3) Can these be powered off the light circuit?

4) I've never built a kitchen before, is there normally a gap behind
the wall cupboards to run wire down?

Any responses appreciated (obviuosly ones that help )

(1)I Haven't been able to find a special socket. In my kitchen I had the
lighting cable run down from the ceiling in the wall and exit the wall
behind a wall cabinet (see (4)). The cable was "protected" by plastic
capping and the exit hole was at an angle so that the cable didn't have
any nasty bends.

(2) It depends on whether you have low voltage lights or mains lights.
Mine are mains. They are a spur from the ring via a switched fused
double pole connection unit with a 5 amp fuse fitted. Below is an example.

http://www.allaboutelectrics.co.uk/i...doc=12&vid=775

(3) Presumably. It all depends what is most convenient.

(4) As far as I know, most units have all least a finger width gap
between the back panel and the wall. Go to a local DIY shed and have a
good look at their demo kitchens. Take a digital camera and take lots of
pictures. Very handy as a point of reference.


be wary of Part P and check what you want to do with an electrician friend

If I used the mains lights how do these connect to the wiring that is
sticking out of the wall? Do you use a junction box (that wouldn't fit
behind the cabinet would it?).

In article ,
"Christian McArdle" writes:
(1)I Haven't been able to find a special socket.

If you want to use a socket, the de facto standard is to use BS546 round pin
sockets, either 2A or 5A. You should ensure they have shuttered holes to
comply with the wiring regulations.

I use Klik plugs and sockets for fixed lighting like this.
You can get them from any wholesaler. Flush mount the
sockets on the wall, positioned immediately below the
cupboard bottoms (and just above tops for over cupboard
lighting).

I use 2A BS546 round pin for outlets for portable lighting.

--
Andrew Gabriel

Christian McArdle wrote:


Use these lights.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...ing/index.html


Quite agree, with but one caveat: make certain that the supplier stocks
replacement tubes and intends to do so for the forseable future.

John Lewis supplied and fitted low profile fluorescent units like these
when installing my kitchen in April 2005. The longer units (20W IIRC)
have all failed in less than a year. Either the fitting died or just
the tube. Two have melted the diffusers. I dragged the fitting to all
my local (serious) electrical suppliers none of whom could match the
tube length. CEF told me that each manufacturer makes their own tubes -
hence no standard sizes. You can decide if that was simply to persuade
me to buy their units, but as I said above, I have not been able to find
replacement tubes. I ended up buying the TLC units from A1 Electrical
in Tunbridge Wells (who are far more helpful than CEF!)

I should add that we have not done anything about ceiling lighting in
the kitchen because these fluorescent units give such good lighting
(maybe that accounts for their short life?)

HTH

Richard

So to clarify, I can have just the grey T&E cable sticking out of the
wall (above the cupboard). Then run the light/transformer cable behind
the wall cabinet.

How do you connect the T&E to the transformer? Most don't have plugs
on, so they have to be connected somehow.

Sorry for my ignorance.

In article ,
Richard writes:
CEF told me that each manufacturer makes their own tubes -
hence no standard sizes.

Indeed, this seems to be a "feature" of T4 tubes.

--
Andrew Gabriel

With the halogen lights that require a transformer, could I put a 3 pin
plug on the end of the cable to plug into a socket off the lighting
circuit? That way I'm covered if I ever need to use the fluoresant
lights instead.

On 2006-08-08 19:04:01 +0100, (Andrew
Gabriel) said:

In article ,
"Christian McArdle" writes:
(1)I Haven't been able to find a special socket.

If you want to use a socket, the de facto standard is to use BS546 round pin
sockets, either 2A or 5A. You should ensure they have shuttered holes to
comply with the wiring regulations.

I use Klik plugs and sockets for fixed lighting like this.
You can get them from any wholesaler. Flush mount the
sockets on the wall, positioned immediately below the
cupboard bottoms (and just above tops for over cupboard
lighting).

Can you suggest one, Andrew? I looked at TLC and they only seem to
have Klik ceiling roses.

Did you mean these?

http://tinyurl.com/lqynm

They seem quite large. Is there a backing box/plasterboard box
suitable for flush mounting included with them, or how does that work?

In article ,
Andy Hall writes:
On 2006-08-08 19:04:01 +0100, (Andrew
Gabriel) said:
I use Klik plugs and sockets for fixed lighting like this.
You can get them from any wholesaler. Flush mount the
sockets on the wall, positioned immediately below the
cupboard bottoms (and just above tops for over cupboard
lighting).

Can you suggest one, Andrew? I looked at TLC and they only seem to
have Klik ceiling roses.

Go to your local electrical wholesaler -- they will stock them.
You want a a Klik S26 architrave socket and architrave back box,
and a P22 plug. The ceiling rose you saw is the same connector,
but in a different mounting format.

Did you mean these?

http://tinyurl.com/lqynm

Yes, but that's rather misleading -- there's a whole range, and
you want the architrave one.

They seem quite large. Is there a backing box/plasterboard box
suitable for flush mounting included with them, or how does that work?

The S26 socket is standard architrave format and fits in an
architrave back box (half the size of a single gang light
switch). MK make these and there are no-name ones too, but
I've only seen them in metal plaster flush mount and surface
mount formats, not plasterboard box. For plasterboard, I stick
a metal one in the plaster with bonding coat. If you are dry
lining, you could probably screw it to the wall behind, with
an appropriate spacer if necessary.

--
Andrew Gabriel

On 2006-08-09 08:14:04 +0100, (Andrew
Gabriel) said:

In article ,
Andy Hall writes:
On 2006-08-08 19:04:01 +0100, (Andrew
Gabriel) said:
I use Klik plugs and sockets for fixed lighting like this.
You can get them from any wholesaler. Flush mount the
sockets on the wall, positioned immediately below the
cupboard bottoms (and just above tops for over cupboard
lighting).

Can you suggest one, Andrew? I looked at TLC and they only seem to
have Klik ceiling roses.

Go to your local electrical wholesaler -- they will stock them.
You want a a Klik S26 architrave socket and architrave back box,
and a P22 plug. The ceiling rose you saw is the same connector,
but in a different mounting format.

Did you mean these?

http://tinyurl.com/lqynm

Yes, but that's rather misleading -- there's a whole range, and
you want the architrave one.

They seem quite large. Is there a backing box/plasterboard box
suitable for flush mounting included with them, or how does that work?

The S26 socket is standard architrave format and fits in an
architrave back box (half the size of a single gang light
switch). MK make these and there are no-name ones too, but
I've only seen them in metal plaster flush mount and surface
mount formats, not plasterboard box. For plasterboard, I stick
a metal one in the plaster with bonding coat. If you are dry
lining, you could probably screw it to the wall behind, with
an appropriate spacer if necessary.

Ah yes. Found the brochure, thanks


http://www.hager.co.uk/files_downloa...20Brochure.pdf

The longer units (20W IIRC) have all failed in less than a year.

I should say that I've had no trouble with tube life with the TLC units. I
have 5 of these units in my kitchen and after two years, not a single one
has failed or deteriorated to a noticeable extent.

Christian.

If I used the mains lights how do these connect to the wiring that is
sticking out of the wall? Do you use a junction box (that wouldn't fit
behind the cabinet would it?).

I used a small 5A junction box. You could also crimp the connection and
heatshrink cover it. The junction box is easily concealed by the pelmet.

Christian.

Christian McArdle wrote:
The longer units (20W IIRC) have all failed in less than a year.


I should say that I've had no trouble with tube life with the TLC units. I
have 5 of these units in my kitchen and after two years, not a single one
has failed or deteriorated to a noticeable extent.

Christian.


Good!

Fingers crossed!

Richard

In message ,
writes
mkkbb wrote:
I'm rewiring my kitchen, and would like to put in under-cabinets lights
to light up the worktop (the cabinets being wall cabinets).

1) How do I actually get the power to these lights? Do I have the grey
wire coming out of the wall, or is there a special socket I should use?

Mine are wired to a lighting circuit, no plugs/sockets involved,
though you could run them from a socket if you wanted to.


2) I assume I'll need transformers, how are these connected to the
mains, socket or some other way? I want to use a normal light switch to
control these under-lights by the way.

If you use the usual slimline fluorescent fittings they are mains
powered, no transformers.


Yep, I experimented, these are much better than LV halogens for under
cupboard lighting
3) Can these be powered off the light circuit?

Yes, as I said that's what I have done.


Yep.

4) I've never built a kitchen before, is there normally a gap behind
the wall cupboards to run wire down?

Yes. I managed to take all my wiring for the under cupboard lights up
behind the cupboards and then into the celing void. I took up the
floor above in places to connect them to the lighting circuits and to
enable the under cupboard lights to be operated from the 'switch by
the door'.

As it happens most of the lighting cabling in our old kitchen was under
the floor, rather than above in the ceiling void. I had ours two way
switched from under the cupboard and by the door as well. I the cables
up inside a bit of boxing in next to the units and then under the
cupboards to the lights. But I could equally have run it down from the
ceiling void.

--
Chris French

mkkbb wrote:

With the halogen lights that require a transformer, could I put a 3 pin
plug on the end of the cable to plug into a socket off the lighting
circuit? That way I'm covered if I ever need to use the fluoresant
lights instead.

I would strongly advice against using halogen lights for under cupboard
lighting since they have a narrow beam and project lots of heat forward,
which could make woring near them rather unpleasant.

If you arrange for a T&E cable to exit the wall at the level of the base
of the cupboard (but above the pelmet level) you can then take it either
directly to the fluro fitting, or to a surface mounted tansformer if you
must have halogens. The power can come from a lighting circuit or from a
power circuit via a fused connection unit (3A fuse).

Most low profile fluro lighting designed for this purpose is "link
lighting" - i.e. you supply power to the first one, and then use the
(usually supplied) link cables to daisy chain each of the remaining ones.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:

I would strongly advice against using halogen lights for under cupboard
lighting since they have a narrow beam and project lots of heat forward,
which could make woring near them rather unpleasant.

If you arrange for a T&E cable to exit the wall at the level of the base
of the cupboard (but above the pelmet level) you can then take it either
directly to the fluro fitting, or to a surface mounted tansformer if you
must have halogens. The power can come from a lighting circuit or from a
power circuit via a fused connection unit (3A fuse).

Most low profile fluro lighting designed for this purpose is "link
lighting" - i.e. you supply power to the first one, and then use the
(usually supplied) link cables to daisy chain each of the remaining ones.

--
Cheers,

John.

Thanks John, i've decided to go for fluorescent lighting, and maybe add
two downlights at a later date above my sink, as the board that runs
across from the two cupbards either side is high up.

On 10 Aug 2006 04:23:01 -0700 someone who may be "mkkbb"
wrote this:-

i've decided to go for fluorescent lighting, and maybe add
two downlights at a later date above my sink

Consider making that a mains powered one for R80 bulbs, into which
energy saving bulbs can be fitted.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

We sell a kit of three halogen stainless steel triangle lights (with 3
x 20 bulbs), pre-wired to a 12v transformer that is wired to a plug
(£23.95 inc VAT).

http://www.stopbox.co.uk/wall-lights/cabinet

You would screw the lights under the cupboard, fix the transformer in
the cupboard and run the cable (in conduit) to the plug socket.

If a socket is not convenient (or is going to look a bit untidy), you
can wire the transformer to the lighting circuit instead.

Regards - Jack