I just burned up 2 good quality blade type wood bits in this old house I
am rehabbing (very hard wood and nails)trying to drill holes for running
my electrical. My guess is to just get a 5/8 metal bit. Any
recommendations on what would work better? Thanks.

Mike D.

On Jan 25, 6:09 pm, Mike Dobony wrote:
I just burned up 2 good quality blade type wood bits in this old house I
am rehabbing (very hard wood and nails)trying to drill holes for running
my electrical. My guess is to just get a 5/8 metal bit. Any
recommendations on what would work better? Thanks.

Mike D.

Until recently my favourite stud and joist bits were Lee Valley's
Short Auger bits (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?
c=2&p=49884&cat=1,180,42240), and they are certainly nice bits, just
the right length for 90% of an electrical project, though occasionally
too short. But then I found a screw-tip spade bit at Canadian Tire
(discount hardware, sporting goods and automotive chain) and it
instantly won me over. Never having used a screw-tip bit before I was
astonished at how it just pulls itself through the wood.

Two caveats: on the older harder joists and studs in this house, my
venerable 3A 3/8" drill won't turn it; and it's really crummy at
clearing its own chips. Often I can't pull it back through the hole it
just drilled, I have to unchuck it and push it through, and clear the
hole with a screwdriver.

I'm thinking that a screw-tip auger bit, as others have recommended,
would be the best choice overall. There are also screw-feed bits
called "selfeed" but at a glance I'm not seeing these smaller than 1".

Chip C
Toronto

auger bit.

s

"Mike Dobony" wrote in message
. ..
I just burned up 2 good quality blade type wood bits in this old house I am
rehabbing (very hard wood and nails)trying to drill holes for running my
electrical. My guess is to just get a 5/8 metal bit. Any recommendations
on what would work better? Thanks.

Mike D.

wrote:
On Jan 25, 6:25 pm, G. Morgan wrote:
Mike Dobony wrote:
I just burned up 2 good quality blade type wood bits in this old house I
am rehabbing (very hard wood and nails)trying to drill holes for running
my electrical. My guess is to just get a 5/8 metal bit. Any
recommendations on what would work better? Thanks.
Mike D.
Ya need a nail eater auger bit.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...ategory2_6970_...
--

-G

I have a 5/8 Irwin screw-tip auger bit that I have used to drill
through hundreds of studs for pulling electric. Occasionally I hit a
nail or staple, but the bit still pulls through the wood faster than I
can often take it. The screw tip is really key, as it starts the hole
and pulls the bit through. One caution though, if the bit is too long
in the drill, it is tough to fit it between 16"oc studs to get a
straight hole.

Is this the standard auger bit or the triple flute? I see the ship
augers are designed for cutting nails, but the bits are way too long.
6-9" would be best.

On Jan 25, 6:09*pm, Mike Dobony wrote:
I just burned up 2 good quality blade type wood bits in this old house I
am rehabbing (very hard wood and nails)trying to drill holes for running
my electrical. *My guess is to just get a 5/8 metal bit. *Any
recommendations on what would work better? *Thanks.

Mike D.

Greenlee Naileater bit, industry standard for electricians. 30$ more
or less

Mike Dobony wrote:
I just burned up 2 good quality blade type wood bits in this old house I
am rehabbing (very hard wood and nails)trying to drill holes for running
my electrical. My guess is to just get a 5/8 metal bit. Any
recommendations on what would work better? Thanks.

Mike D.

You mean spade bits? Use an Auger bit.

a

Mike Dobony wrote:
wrote:
On Jan 25, 6:25 pm, G. Morgan wrote:
Mike Dobony wrote:
I just burned up 2 good quality blade type wood bits in this old
house I
am rehabbing (very hard wood and nails)trying to drill holes for
running
my electrical. My guess is to just get a 5/8 metal bit. Any
recommendations on what would work better? Thanks.
Mike D.
Ya need a nail eater auger bit.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...ategory2_6970_...
--

-G

I have a 5/8 Irwin screw-tip auger bit that I have used to drill
through hundreds of studs for pulling electric. Occasionally I hit a
nail or staple, but the bit still pulls through the wood faster than I
can often take it. The screw tip is really key, as it starts the hole
and pulls the bit through. One caution though, if the bit is too long
in the drill, it is tough to fit it between 16"oc studs to get a
straight hole.

Is this the standard auger bit or the triple flute? I see the ship
augers are designed for cutting nails, but the bits are way too long.
6-9" would be best.

Rent a right angle drill and use an auger bit - that combo will fit
anywhere and eat through anything.

a

Old wood, plaster. and nails will be hard on any drill bit you
get. You can go through 3 to 5 of those paddle bits for the cost
of a good ship auger or a Milwaukee hole hawg spur bit. Kinda
depends on your needs. You will probably not be able to sharpen
either, but a file will touch up the cheap paddle bits without
needing to know much about sharpening.

Irwin has a new, very aggressive bit that is impressive:
http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/browse.jhtml?catId=IrwinCat160001

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Mike Dobony" wrote in message
. ..
I just burned up 2 good quality blade type wood bits in this old
house I am rehabbing (very hard wood and nails)trying to drill
holes for running my electrical. My guess is to just get a 5/8
metal bit. Any recommendations on what would work better?
Thanks.

Mike D.

a wrote:
Mike Dobony wrote:
wrote:
On Jan 25, 6:25 pm, G. Morgan wrote:
Mike Dobony wrote:
I just burned up 2 good quality blade type wood bits in this old
house I
am rehabbing (very hard wood and nails)trying to drill holes for
running
my electrical. My guess is to just get a 5/8 metal bit. Any
recommendations on what would work better? Thanks.
Mike D.
Ya need a nail eater auger bit.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...ategory2_6970_...

--

-G

I have a 5/8 Irwin screw-tip auger bit that I have used to drill
through hundreds of studs for pulling electric. Occasionally I hit a
nail or staple, but the bit still pulls through the wood faster than I
can often take it. The screw tip is really key, as it starts the hole
and pulls the bit through. One caution though, if the bit is too long
in the drill, it is tough to fit it between 16"oc studs to get a
straight hole.

Is this the standard auger bit or the triple flute? I see the ship
augers are designed for cutting nails, but the bits are way too long.
6-9" would be best.

Rent a right angle drill and use an auger bit - that combo will fit
anywhere and eat through anything.

a


Do the math. The commonly available size nail cutting drill bit is 17"
Distance between studs is 14.5" Even with a right angle drill the
bit is still longer than the space between the studs. I am just as well
off with the 17" drill bit and my 1/2" drive cordless and set the clutch
at the maximum setting so when the drill bet gets jammed I don't bust my
wrist. I do not have time to waste (time is money when it stops or
delays all other work) to do mail order. I can't even find the short
version at Graingers. Lowes and Home Depot only have the 17" specialty
bits. I see Greenlee makes a shorter one, but finding someone that
sells it locally is difficult. I need to get this project going Monday
morning, not Wednesday.

Mike Dobony wrote:
a wrote:

Mike Dobony wrote:

wrote:

On Jan 25, 6:25 pm, G. Morgan wrote:

Mike Dobony wrote:

I just burned up 2 good quality blade type wood bits in this old
house I
am rehabbing (very hard wood and nails)trying to drill holes for
running
my electrical. My guess is to just get a 5/8 metal bit. Any
recommendations on what would work better? Thanks.
Mike D.

Ya need a nail eater auger bit.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...ategory2_6970_...

--

-G


I have a 5/8 Irwin screw-tip auger bit that I have used to drill
through hundreds of studs for pulling electric. Occasionally I hit a
nail or staple, but the bit still pulls through the wood faster than I
can often take it. The screw tip is really key, as it starts the hole
and pulls the bit through. One caution though, if the bit is too long
in the drill, it is tough to fit it between 16"oc studs to get a
straight hole.


Is this the standard auger bit or the triple flute? I see the ship
augers are designed for cutting nails, but the bits are way too long.
6-9" would be best.


Rent a right angle drill and use an auger bit - that combo will fit
anywhere and eat through anything.

a



Do the math. The commonly available size nail cutting drill bit is 17"
Distance between studs is 14.5" Even with a right angle drill the bit
is still longer than the space between the studs. I am just as well off
with the 17" drill bit and my 1/2" drive cordless and set the clutch at
the maximum setting so when the drill bet gets jammed I don't bust my
wrist. I do not have time to waste (time is money when it stops or
delays all other work) to do mail order. I can't even find the short
version at Graingers. Lowes and Home Depot only have the 17" specialty
bits. I see Greenlee makes a shorter one, but finding someone that
sells it locally is difficult. I need to get this project going Monday
morning, not Wednesday.

I'd say this is why you *should* order mail order.

I too like to patronize local businesses whenever I can, but when I need
something right away just suck it up and mail order it, and pay for
overnight shipping. You're just wasting time and money driving around
not finding what you're looking for. If you can't get it at Grainger,
unless your local area is considerably different from mine, you probably
aren't going to find it at the Large Orange-Colored Store either. At
least when you mail order the time you would have spend driving around
you can spend working on something else.

You could try ordering from McMaster-Carr, although they're not going to
sell you a "greenlee nail eater" they will sell you a "general purpose
wood boring drill bit" which may or may not be the same thing. That's
the one peeve I have with them; they sell high quality stuff but nothing
is branded, you just get what you get when you order from them. Next
day delivery with no added shipping charges is great though.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Nate Nagel wrote:
Mike Dobony wrote:
a wrote:

Mike Dobony wrote:

wrote:

On Jan 25, 6:25 pm, G. Morgan wrote:

Mike Dobony wrote:

I just burned up 2 good quality blade type wood bits in this old
house I
am rehabbing (very hard wood and nails)trying to drill holes for
running
my electrical. My guess is to just get a 5/8 metal bit. Any
recommendations on what would work better? Thanks.
Mike D.

Ya need a nail eater auger bit.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...ategory2_6970_...

--

-G


I have a 5/8 Irwin screw-tip auger bit that I have used to drill
through hundreds of studs for pulling electric. Occasionally I hit a
nail or staple, but the bit still pulls through the wood faster than I
can often take it. The screw tip is really key, as it starts the hole
and pulls the bit through. One caution though, if the bit is too long
in the drill, it is tough to fit it between 16"oc studs to get a
straight hole.


Is this the standard auger bit or the triple flute? I see the ship
augers are designed for cutting nails, but the bits are way too
long. 6-9" would be best.


Rent a right angle drill and use an auger bit - that combo will fit
anywhere and eat through anything.

a



Do the math. The commonly available size nail cutting drill bit is
17" Distance between studs is 14.5" Even with a right angle drill
the bit is still longer than the space between the studs. I am just
as well off with the 17" drill bit and my 1/2" drive cordless and set
the clutch at the maximum setting so when the drill bet gets jammed I
don't bust my wrist. I do not have time to waste (time is money when
it stops or delays all other work) to do mail order. I can't even
find the short version at Graingers. Lowes and Home Depot only have
the 17" specialty bits. I see Greenlee makes a shorter one, but
finding someone that sells it locally is difficult. I need to get
this project going Monday morning, not Wednesday.

I'd say this is why you *should* order mail order.

I too like to patronize local businesses whenever I can, but when I need
something right away just suck it up and mail order it, and pay for
overnight shipping. You're just wasting time and money driving around
not finding what you're looking for. If you can't get it at Grainger,
unless your local area is considerably different from mine, you probably
aren't going to find it at the Large Orange-Colored Store either. At
least when you mail order the time you would have spend driving around
you can spend working on something else.


I spend the time on the internet, not driving around.

You could try ordering from McMaster-Carr, although they're not going to
sell you a "greenlee nail eater" they will sell you a "general purpose
wood boring drill bit" which may or may not be the same thing.

Also the problem. How can I trust the other stuff? I would prefer to
spend the similar amount of money on something I know will last. Irwin
is not the best quality.

That's
the one peeve I have with them; they sell high quality stuff but nothing
is branded, you just get what you get when you order from them. Next
day delivery with no added shipping charges is great though.

nate

G. Morgan wrote:
Mike Dobony wrote:

I am just as well
off with the 17" drill bit and my 1/2" drive cordless and set the clutch
at the maximum setting so when the drill bet gets jammed I don't bust my
wrist.

It better be one bad-ass cordless drill (DeWalt 24V or better).


Yeah, and even then - what's the recharge time between every 4-5 joists/studs?

a

Mike Dobony wrote:
a wrote:
Mike Dobony wrote:
wrote:
On Jan 25, 6:25 pm, G. Morgan wrote:
Mike Dobony wrote:
I just burned up 2 good quality blade type wood bits in this old
house I
am rehabbing (very hard wood and nails)trying to drill holes for
running
my electrical. My guess is to just get a 5/8 metal bit. Any
recommendations on what would work better? Thanks.
Mike D.
Ya need a nail eater auger bit.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...ategory2_6970_...

--

-G

I have a 5/8 Irwin screw-tip auger bit that I have used to drill
through hundreds of studs for pulling electric. Occasionally I hit a
nail or staple, but the bit still pulls through the wood faster than I
can often take it. The screw tip is really key, as it starts the hole
and pulls the bit through. One caution though, if the bit is too long
in the drill, it is tough to fit it between 16"oc studs to get a
straight hole.

Is this the standard auger bit or the triple flute? I see the ship
augers are designed for cutting nails, but the bits are way too long.
6-9" would be best.

Rent a right angle drill and use an auger bit - that combo will fit
anywhere and eat through anything.

a


Do the math. The commonly available size nail cutting drill bit is 17"
Distance between studs is 14.5" Even with a right angle drill the bit
is still longer than the space between the studs. I am just as well off
with the 17" drill bit and my 1/2" drive cordless and set the clutch at
the maximum setting so when the drill bet gets jammed I don't bust my
wrist. I do not have time to waste (time is money when it stops or
delays all other work) to do mail order. I can't even find the short
version at Graingers. Lowes and Home Depot only have the 17" specialty
bits. I see Greenlee makes a shorter one, but finding someone that
sells it locally is difficult. I need to get this project going Monday
morning, not Wednesday.

No math needed. Did I say 17" nail cutting bit? No. A right angle drill
with an auger bit will fit anywhere and eat through anything.

a

G. Morgan wrote:
Mike Dobony wrote:

I am just as well
off with the 17" drill bit and my 1/2" drive cordless and set the clutch
at the maximum setting so when the drill bet gets jammed I don't bust my
wrist.

It better be one bad-ass cordless drill (DeWalt 24V or better).


Dewalt 18v 1/2" hammer drill and it does a good job drilling.
Unfortunately Dewalt has a lousy clutch. On the lowest setting it still
drives deck screws through the decking if it keeps a grip on the screw
(sq drive or torx).

a wrote:
Mike Dobony wrote:
a wrote:
Mike Dobony wrote:
wrote:
On Jan 25, 6:25 pm, G. Morgan wrote:
Mike Dobony wrote:
I just burned up 2 good quality blade type wood bits in this old
house I
am rehabbing (very hard wood and nails)trying to drill holes for
running
my electrical. My guess is to just get a 5/8 metal bit. Any
recommendations on what would work better? Thanks.
Mike D.
Ya need a nail eater auger bit.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...ategory2_6970_...

--

-G

I have a 5/8 Irwin screw-tip auger bit that I have used to drill
through hundreds of studs for pulling electric. Occasionally I hit a
nail or staple, but the bit still pulls through the wood faster than I
can often take it. The screw tip is really key, as it starts the hole
and pulls the bit through. One caution though, if the bit is too long
in the drill, it is tough to fit it between 16"oc studs to get a
straight hole.

Is this the standard auger bit or the triple flute? I see the ship
augers are designed for cutting nails, but the bits are way too
long. 6-9" would be best.

Rent a right angle drill and use an auger bit - that combo will fit
anywhere and eat through anything.

a


Do the math. The commonly available size nail cutting drill bit is
17" Distance between studs is 14.5" Even with a right angle drill
the bit is still longer than the space between the studs. I am just
as well off with the 17" drill bit and my 1/2" drive cordless and set
the clutch at the maximum setting so when the drill bet gets jammed I
don't bust my wrist. I do not have time to waste (time is money when
it stops or delays all other work) to do mail order. I can't even
find the short version at Graingers. Lowes and Home Depot only have
the 17" specialty bits. I see Greenlee makes a shorter one, but
finding someone that sells it locally is difficult. I need to get
this project going Monday morning, not Wednesday.

No math needed. Did I say 17" nail cutting bit? No. A right angle
drill with an auger bit will fit anywhere and eat through anything.

a


No, you did not say 17", but that is all the local stores carry in
stock, including Graingers. My 7" bit and Dewalt 1/2" hammer drill is
doing a good job fitting in between the studs. Saturday I went and got
a standard Irwin auger bit, not the ship auger (too long), but the
standard auger and it is doing an adequate job, though one blade has
already broken off trying to cut through a nail (it cut through one
nail). It is still doing a better job than the spade bit. I have only
one more hole to drill today. Next time I plan an electrical job I will
go online and find the short Greenlee nail eater bit before I start
drilling. This one came up at the last minute.

According to a :
G. Morgan wrote:

It better be one bad-ass cordless drill (DeWalt 24V or better).

Yeah, and even then - what's the recharge time between every 4-5 joists/studs?

Heh, I was drilling a 7/8" screw-tip auger thru _full_ 2" joists to
run 8/3 stove cable, did about 15 holes before my hand slipped and
the battery whacked me in the cheek and I had to hold onto the ladder
for several minutes until the stars went out.

Then did another 5 or 6.

With a 12V Dewalt.
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

Mike Dobony wrote:
I just burned up 2 good quality blade type wood bits in this old house I
am rehabbing (very hard wood and nails)trying to drill holes for running
my electrical. My guess is to just get a 5/8 metal bit. Any
recommendations on what would work better? Thanks.

Mike D.

Thanks for all the advice. Unfortunately, time being a consideration, I
purchased a short auger bit locally. It is already dull from one nail.
I don't think I will buy Irwin again. I might be able to sharpen the
bit, or at least remove the burr from the nail. I also had to buy a
long one as I ran out of hole space in the top plate. I ended up buying
a long Greenlee bit just for that. It does a great job! Before my next
electrical job I'll be ordering the short Greenlee bit.