Have a chandelier in our dining room that is about 40 years old. Some of
the lights don't work that well. One has to twist the bulb(s) to just the
right spot in the socket to get them to stay lit. Through vibration or for
some other reason some of them will shut off by themselves.

I can twist the bulb back in to make it work again to make it work.
However, I'm getting tired of that game. I was thinking of replacing the
whole unit as one can buy a new one for $100-$200. Or, is there a simple
and inexpensive way to repair these type of sockets?

http://www.shadesoflight.com/images/chandsolution.jpg

The light fixture probably has plastic light bulb sockets and they are
charred and loose fitting on the bulb base. They need replacing, which can
be a lot of work. If the fixture is not a valuable one, it may not pay to
attempt such a potentially difficult job to thread the wires through the
fixture in order to replace the sockets. If you are satisfied with a cheap
replacement, possibly you should go this route. If you do want to rebuild
the fixture use only porcelain sockets, an electrical supplier can get them
from Leviton, as I have done the same thing to some of my fixtures. If the
wire is in bad shape be sure to replace it with similar wire rated at 105
degrees C, so that it is heat resistant.

If you buy a new one, look for a model with porcelain sockets, it will
outlast any with cheap plastic sockets.


"Charlie S." wrote in message
news:Qx3lj.4042$Ev6.3379@trndny07...
Have a chandelier in our dining room that is about 40 years old. Some of
the lights don't work that well. One has to twist the bulb(s) to just the
right spot in the socket to get them to stay lit. Through vibration or
for some other reason some of them will shut off by themselves.

I can twist the bulb back in to make it work again to make it work.
However, I'm getting tired of that game. I was thinking of replacing the
whole unit as one can buy a new one for $100-$200. Or, is there a simple
and inexpensive way to repair these type of sockets?

http://www.shadesoflight.com/images/chandsolution.jpg

On Jan 21, 10:14*am, "Charlie S." wrote:
Have a chandelier in our dining room that is about 40 years old. *Some of
the lights don't work that well. *One has to twist the bulb(s) to just the
right spot in the socket to get them to stay lit. *Through vibration or for
some other reason some of them will shut off by themselves.

I can twist the bulb back in to make it work again to make it work.
However, I'm getting tired of that game. *I was thinking of replacing the
whole unit as one can buy a new one for $100-$200. *Or, is there a simple
and inexpensive way to repair these type of sockets?

http://www.shadesoflight.com/images/chandsolution.jpg

Look at the bottom of the socket there might be a piece of metal on
the bottom that can be bent up

You all seem to be on target as far as this unit is concerned. I'll try to
reply to most of your postings below. (Sorry for any redundancy.)

The sockets are made of plastic and most fit loosely on the base.
Tightening might be impossible as there is a 1" specialized grommet that
runs through the center of socket itself. I doubt I could replace them with
a regular grommet tool as I would be squeezing the grommet through plastic.

There is also a screw on the bottom of the socket. I see wire fragments
attached beneath it. Seems odd to me. Loosening or tightening the screw
might be an option to explore. I don't think that screw is a supportive
screw. I could be wrong. I haven't tried the eraser idea yet. There isn't
any metal to bend up or down. The screw must be the metal connection.

The outer plastic sheath does rise rather high and may be causing problems
in sockets I haven't tested. Will try removing each one that gives me
trouble to find out if that might be a culprit. If so, I'll trim it down.

In some candles there is some play between the bulb and the socket.. Others
fit snugly. I took the outer sheath off of one of them to see if that made
a difference. Still had the same problem. There is too much play between
the bulb and the socket. In other candles there is too much play at the
base.


Thanks for the idea of replacing with porcelain parts or replacing the
whole unit with a brass base lamp. Most likely buying a new unit is the
route I will take. Although, I do have a friend who is electrically
inclined. If I can get him to help me, I might replace each of the bulb
units with porcelain.

Can't really replace with each bulb with 15 watt bulbs. This unit already
gets pretty dim when 2 or 3 of the bulbs mysteriously decide to shut off.
Has me thinking though. These bulbs are using a lot of electricity when the
light is on. Maybe I should be looking at a more energy efficient lamp
fixture. Or, if I do replace the sockets, then test out the 15 watt bulbs.

Thanks for your help.

The suggestion to bend up the center contact is a good one. Just
don't forget to have the power switched off, sometimes less
experienced people focusing on a task can forget, especially in a case
like this where the bulbs might be off due to the failure and not the
switch.

Can also using sandpaper or emory paper clean the center contact
and the screw shell until shiney. The center contact could be bent up
slightly, maybe 30 degree angle, the bulb will push down.


On Mon, 21 Jan 2008 08:51:25 -0800 (PST), ransley
wrote:

On Jan 21, 10:14*am, "Charlie S." wrote:
Have a chandelier in our dining room that is about 40 years old. *Some of
the lights don't work that well. *One has to twist the bulb(s) to just the
right spot in the socket to get them to stay lit. *Through vibration or for
some other reason some of them will shut off by themselves.

I can twist the bulb back in to make it work again to make it work.
However, I'm getting tired of that game. *I was thinking of replacing the
whole unit as one can buy a new one for $100-$200. *Or, is there a simple
and inexpensive way to repair these type of sockets?

http://www.shadesoflight.com/images/chandsolution.jpg

Look at the bottom of the socket there might be a piece of metal on
the bottom that can be bent up

"Charlie S." wrote in message
news:de9lj.7148$ec.6945@trndny02...


You all seem to be on target as far as this unit is concerned. I'll try
to reply to most of your postings below. (Sorry for any redundancy.)

The sockets are made of plastic and most fit loosely on the base.
Tightening might be impossible as there is a 1" specialized grommet that
runs through the center of socket itself. I doubt I could replace them
with a regular grommet tool as I would be squeezing the grommet through
plastic.

There is also a screw on the bottom of the socket. I see wire fragments
attached beneath it. Seems odd to me. Loosening or tightening the screw
might be an option to explore. I don't think that screw is a supportive
screw. I could be wrong. I haven't tried the eraser idea yet. There
isn't any metal to bend up or down. The screw must be the metal
connection.

The outer plastic sheath does rise rather high and may be causing problems
in sockets I haven't tested. Will try removing each one that gives me
trouble to find out if that might be a culprit. If so, I'll trim it down.

In some candles there is some play between the bulb and the socket..
Others fit snugly. I took the outer sheath off of one of them to see if
that made a difference. Still had the same problem. There is too much
play between the bulb and the socket. In other candles there is too much
play at the base.


Thanks for the idea of replacing with porcelain parts or replacing the
whole unit with a brass base lamp. Most likely buying a new unit is the
route I will take. Although, I do have a friend who is electrically
inclined. If I can get him to help me, I might replace each of the bulb
units with porcelain.

Can't really replace with each bulb with 15 watt bulbs. This unit already
gets pretty dim when 2 or 3 of the bulbs mysteriously decide to shut off.
Has me thinking though. These bulbs are using a lot of electricity when
the light is on. Maybe I should be looking at a more energy efficient
lamp fixture. Or, if I do replace the sockets, then test out the 15 watt
bulbs.

Thanks for your help.


To save electricity, take a look at these (or similar) CF bulbs.
http://www.1000bulbs.com/Decorative-Torpedo-CFL/

--
Peace,
BobJ

On Jan 21, 5:43*pm, "Charlie S." wrote:
You all seem to be on target as far as this unit is concerned. *I'll try to
reply to most of your postings below. *(Sorry for any redundancy.)

The sockets are made of plastic and most fit loosely on the base.
Tightening might be impossible as there is a 1" specialized grommet that
runs through the center of socket itself. *I doubt I could replace them with
a regular grommet tool as I would be squeezing the grommet through plastic..

There is also a screw on the bottom of the socket. *I see wire fragments
attached beneath it. *Seems odd to me. *Loosening or tightening the screw
might be an option to explore. *I don't think that screw is a supportive
screw. *I could be wrong. *I haven't tried the eraser idea yet. *There isn't
any metal to bend up or down. *The screw must be the metal connection.

The outer plastic sheath does rise rather high and may be causing problems
in sockets I haven't tested. *Will try removing each one that gives me
trouble to find out if that might be a culprit. *If so, I'll trim it down.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On Jan 21, 5:43 pm, "Charlie S." wrote:
You all seem to be on target as far as this unit is concerned. I'll try to
reply to most of your postings below. (Sorry for any redundancy.)

The sockets are made of plastic and most fit loosely on the base.
Tightening might be impossible as there is a 1" specialized grommet that
runs through the center of socket itself. I doubt I could replace them
with
a regular grommet tool as I would be squeezing the grommet through
plastic.

There is also a screw on the bottom of the socket. I see wire fragments
attached beneath it. Seems odd to me. Loosening or tightening the screw
might be an option to explore. I don't think that screw is a supportive
screw. I could be wrong. I haven't tried the eraser idea yet. There isn't
any metal to bend up or down. The screw must be the metal connection.

The outer plastic sheath does rise rather high and may be causing problems
in sockets I haven't tested. Will try removing each one that gives me
trouble to find out if that might be a culprit. If so, I'll trim it down.

In some candles there is some play between the bulb and the socket..
Others
fit snugly. I took the outer sheath off of one of them to see if that made
a difference. Still had the same problem. There is too much play between
the bulb and the socket. In other candles there is too much play at the
base.

Thanks for the idea of replacing with porcelain parts or replacing the
whole unit with a brass base lamp. Most likely buying a new unit is the
route I will take. Although, I do have a friend who is electrically
inclined. If I can get him to help me, I might replace each of the bulb
units with porcelain.

Can't really replace with each bulb with 15 watt bulbs. This unit already
gets pretty dim when 2 or 3 of the bulbs mysteriously decide to shut off.
Has me thinking though. These bulbs are using a lot of electricity when
the
light is on. Maybe I should be looking at a more energy efficient lamp
fixture. Or, if I do replace the sockets, then test out the 15 watt bulbs.

Thanks for your help.

There is also a screw on the bottom of the socket. I see wire
fragments attached beneath it. Seems odd to me.

I can't see your fixture from here, so I'm curious as to why the wires
attached to the screw seem "odd".

Is it possible that you are looking at the wire that powers each
socket and that the wiring has deterioated to a point where everything
is loose? Is it possible that you only make a good electrical
connection between the wire and socket when the *socket* (not the
bulb) is in a specific postion?

If you only have "fragments" of wire making the connection at the
sockets, I would say that the fixture needs some major repairs.

Just throwing in one more possibility.




It's probably odd because I'm not used to looking at the bottom of these
sockets. I always thought there was usually a raised piece of metal, but
not a screw type piece of metal.

The wire fragments seem pretty secure under the screw. I had to look
carefully just to see them.

With a little bit of playing with the unit I got all but one of the bulbs to
work. It's pretty bright when they are all on. Lucky we have a dimmer, so
we can adjust the brightness. Chances are the other lights will go out in
the next couple weeks and I'll be back to square one.

To the previous poster. Thanks for the CF light link. I'll check into it
over the weekend.