The threaded pipe joint I installed last week for one of my home's hot
water radiators is leaking a little. It it now obvious to me that I
didn't put enough pipe dope on when I installed. I would prefer to
wait a few days before I redo because we're in the middle of a cold
spell. But the pipe orientation makes it difficult to catch the drip,
so I want it to stop. Would plumbers epoxy putty work here? or would
the heat and lack of smooth surface (i.e. threads) doom this patch job
to instant failure? And if it does work, would I be able to remove
the putty or does it harden so strong that I won't be able to break it
off. I never worked with this stuff before, so I'm not familiar.

Opinions?

-Theodore.

On Jan 4, 8:47*am, wrote:
The threaded pipe joint I installed last week for one of my home's hot
water radiators is leaking a little. *It it now obvious to me that I
didn't put enough pipe dope on when I installed. *I would prefer to
wait a few days before I redo because we're in the middle of a cold
spell. *But the pipe orientation makes it difficult to catch the drip,
so I want it to stop. *Would plumbers epoxy putty work here? *or would
the heat and lack of smooth surface (i.e. threads) doom this patch job
to instant failure? *And if it does work, would I be able to remove
the putty or does it harden so strong that I won't be able to break it
off. *I never worked with this stuff before, so I'm not familiar.

Opinions?

-Theodore.

use pipe dope then teflon tape

as far as catching the drip, perhaps an ice tray, or even a cookie sheet.
or a creative cut on a piece of pvc to use as a trough.

s

wrote in message
...
The threaded pipe joint I installed last week for one of my home's hot
water radiators is leaking a little. It it now obvious to me that I
didn't put enough pipe dope on when I installed. I would prefer to
wait a few days before I redo because we're in the middle of a cold
spell. But the pipe orientation makes it difficult to catch the drip,
so I want it to stop. Would plumbers epoxy putty work here? or would
the heat and lack of smooth surface (i.e. threads) doom this patch job
to instant failure? And if it does work, would I be able to remove
the putty or does it harden so strong that I won't be able to break it
off. I never worked with this stuff before, so I'm not familiar.

Opinions?

-Theodore.

On Jan 4, 8:47 am, wrote:
The threaded pipe joint I installed last week for one of my home's hot
water radiators is leaking a little. It it now obvious to me that I
didn't put enough pipe dope on when I installed. I would prefer to
wait a few days before I redo because we're in the middle of a cold
spell. But the pipe orientation makes it difficult to catch the drip,
so I want it to stop. Would plumbers epoxy putty work here? or would
the heat and lack of smooth surface (i.e. threads) doom this patch job
to instant failure? And if it does work, would I be able to remove
the putty or does it harden so strong that I won't be able to break it
off. I never worked with this stuff before, so I'm not familiar.

Opinions?

-Theodore.

In general it's hard to stop a leak with something applied to the
outside. I take it this is not a joint where you can just try
tightening it some more without taking things apart. If it is awkward
to position a bowl or something in there to catch the drips, maybe you
could get creative with an absorbent rag, with maybe a piece of
aluminum foil under it keep the moisture off the floor.
-- H

wrote:
The threaded pipe joint I installed last week for one of my home's
hot water radiators is leaking a little. It it now obvious to me
that I didn't put enough pipe dope on when I installed. I would
prefer to wait a few days before I redo because we're in the middle
of a cold spell. But the pipe orientation makes it difficult to
catch the drip, so I want it to stop. Would plumbers epoxy putty
work here? or would the heat and lack of smooth surface (i.e.
threads) doom this patch job to instant failure? And if it does
work, would I be able to remove the putty or does it harden so
strong that I won't be able to break it off. I never worked with
this stuff before, so I'm not familiar.

Opinions?

I've never heard of "plumber's" epoxy putty but regular epoxy putty
gets hard and would be difficult (not impossible) to remove. Not
likely to stop the leak either.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Jan 4, 9:47*am, wrote:
The threaded pipe joint I installed last week for one of my home's hot
water radiators is leaking a little. *It it now obvious to me that I
didn't put enough pipe dope on when I installed. *I would prefer to
wait a few days before I redo because we're in the middle of a cold
spell. *But the pipe orientation makes it difficult to catch the drip,
so I want it to stop. *Would plumbers epoxy putty work here? *or would
the heat and lack of smooth surface (i.e. threads) doom this patch job
to instant failure? *And if it does work, would I be able to remove
the putty or does it harden so strong that I won't be able to break it
off. *I never worked with this stuff before, so I'm not familiar.

Opinions?

-Theodore.

If you are referring to the "rolls" of two part epxoy putty that you
cut and then knead together, I would think that it should work fine.

The lack of smooth surface is a plus since you want a rough surface to
give epoxy something to grab on to. I always rough up smooth surfaces
when using epoxy to give it some "bite".

As far as the heat, check the package of whatever brand you buy. The
Pro Poxy 20 available at this site says it can withstand temps up to
300 F. http://www.herchem.com/products/putty_epoxy.html

You should be able to break the seal when you are ready for a
permanent repair, although a complete clean up might take a little
time, since the epoxy will be in between the threads, etc. A dremel-
like tool with the appropriate bit comes to mind for the clean-up.

I'd give the putty a try and if it holds, I'd leave it in place until
spring when you can take your time with the clean-up and permanent
repair.

BTW the only thing I don't like about the epoxy putty is that Billy
Mays is now hawking something called Mighty Putty which appears to be
the same type of product. g

On Jan 4, 12:49*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
If you are referring to the "rolls" of two part epxoy putty that you
cut and then knead together, I would think that it should work fine.

The lack of smooth surface is a plus since you want a rough surface to
give epoxy something to grab on to. I always rough up smooth surfaces
when using epoxy to give it some "bite".

As far as the heat, check the package of whatever brand you buy. The
Pro Poxy 20 available at this site says it can withstand temps up to
300 F.http://www.herchem.com/products/putty_epoxy.html

You should be able to break the seal when you are ready for a
permanent repair, although a complete clean up might take a little
time, since the epoxy will be in between the threads, etc. A dremel-
like tool with the appropriate bit comes to mind for the clean-up.

I'd give the putty a try and if it holds, I'd leave it in place until
spring when you can take your time with the clean-up and permanent
repair.

BTW the only thing I don't like about the epoxy putty is that Billy
Mays is now hawking something called Mighty Putty which appears to be
the same type of product. *g

Yes, that's what I 'm referring to. I'll give it a try.
Thanks for the advice (and I agree with your observation about Billy
Mays.)

wrote in message
...
On Jan 4, 12:49 pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
If you are referring to the "rolls" of two part epxoy putty that you
cut and then knead together, I would think that it should work fine.

The lack of smooth surface is a plus since you want a rough surface to
give epoxy something to grab on to. I always rough up smooth surfaces
when using epoxy to give it some "bite".

As far as the heat, check the package of whatever brand you buy. The
Pro Poxy 20 available at this site says it can withstand temps up to
300 F.http://www.herchem.com/products/putty_epoxy.html

You should be able to break the seal when you are ready for a
permanent repair, although a complete clean up might take a little
time, since the epoxy will be in between the threads, etc. A dremel-
like tool with the appropriate bit comes to mind for the clean-up.

I'd give the putty a try and if it holds, I'd leave it in place until
spring when you can take your time with the clean-up and permanent
repair.

BTW the only thing I don't like about the epoxy putty is that Billy
Mays is now hawking something called Mighty Putty which appears to be
the same type of product. g

Yes, that's what I 'm referring to. I'll give it a try.
Thanks for the advice (and I agree with your observation about Billy
Mays.)

Epoxy on the outside of the joint is very unlikely to hold against water
pressure. It will however, make fixing the joint correctly much more difficult.
Fixing it correctly would be a lot smarter.

On Jan 4, 1:46*pm, "Bob F" wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Jan 4, 12:49 pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:





If you are referring to the "rolls" of two part epxoy putty that you
cut and then knead together, I would think that it should work fine.

The lack of smooth surface is a plus since you want a rough surface to
give epoxy something to grab on to. I always rough up smooth surfaces
when using epoxy to give it some "bite".

As far as the heat, check the package of whatever brand you buy. The
Pro Poxy 20 available at this site says it can withstand temps up to
300 F.http://www.herchem.com/products/putty_epoxy.html

You should be able to break the seal when you are ready for a
permanent repair, although a complete clean up might take a little
time, since the epoxy will be in between the threads, etc. A dremel-
like tool with the appropriate bit comes to mind for the clean-up.

I'd give the putty a try and if it holds, I'd leave it in place until
spring when you can take your time with the clean-up and permanent
repair.

BTW the only thing I don't like about the epoxy putty is that Billy
Mays is now hawking something called Mighty Putty which appears to be
the same type of product. g

Yes, that's what I 'm referring to. *I'll give it a try.
Thanks for the advice (and I agree with your observation about Billy
Mays.)

Epoxy on the outside of the joint is very unlikely to hold against water
pressure. It will however, make fixing the joint correctly much more difficult.
Fixing it correctly would be a lot smarter.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

While I would never disagree that a proper plumbing connection without
the use of "external materials" is the best idea, the type of epoxy we
are discussing here may indeed work in this application. See the
description of Pro Poxy 20 at this site: http://www.herchem.com/specs/propoxy20.pdf

If the leak is slow enough (i.e. not a lot of pressure) it may indeed
work just fine. I have repaired a cracked PVC trap and an aluminum
gutter with similiar products, both of which had a fairly steady drip.
The trap repair lasted for many, many years until I replaced the sink.
(The gutter was replaced soon after the repair.)

Again - a permanent repair is the best idea, but if the OP is
reluctant to dismantle the heating system during the winter, using the
epoxy putty as a stop-gap might fit the bill.

wrote in message
...
The threaded pipe joint I installed last week for one of my home's hot
water radiators is leaking a little. It it now obvious to me that I
didn't put enough pipe dope on when I installed. I would prefer to
wait a few days before I redo because we're in the middle of a cold
spell. But the pipe orientation makes it difficult to catch the drip,
so I want it to stop. Would plumbers epoxy putty work here? or would
the heat and lack of smooth surface (i.e. threads) doom this patch job
to instant failure? And if it does work, would I be able to remove
the putty or does it harden so strong that I won't be able to break it
off. I never worked with this stuff before, so I'm not familiar.

Opinions?

-Theodore.

Take it apart . clean the threads wrap 5 to 6 revolutions of Teflon tape
tight around threads ( Looking at the end you are going to wrap go
clockwise) then apply pipe dope the best is the type with Teflon in it
Rectorseal T plus 2 Teflon enriched thread sealant.

DerbyDad03 wrote in news:ebf1c48b-17fa-49c9-97ba-
:

On Jan 4, 9:47*am, wrote:
The threaded pipe joint I installed last week for one of my home's hot
water radiators is leaking a little. *It it now obvious to me that I
didn't put enough pipe dope on when I installed. *I would prefer to
wait a few days before I redo because we're in the middle of a cold
spell. *But the pipe orientation makes it difficult to catch the drip,
so I want it to stop. *Would plumbers epoxy putty work here? *or would

the heat and lack of smooth surface (i.e. threads) doom this patch job
to instant failure? *And if it does work, would I be able to remove
the putty or does it harden so strong that I won't be able to break it
off. *I never worked with this stuff before, so I'm not familiar.

Opinions?

-Theodore.

If you are referring to the "rolls" of two part epxoy putty that you
cut and then knead together, I would think that it should work fine.

The lack of smooth surface is a plus since you want a rough surface to
give epoxy something to grab on to. I always rough up smooth surfaces
when using epoxy to give it some "bite".

As far as the heat, check the package of whatever brand you buy. The
Pro Poxy 20 available at this site says it can withstand temps up to
300 F. http://www.herchem.com/products/putty_epoxy.html

You should be able to break the seal when you are ready for a
permanent repair, although a complete clean up might take a little
time, since the epoxy will be in between the threads, etc. A dremel-
like tool with the appropriate bit comes to mind for the clean-up.

I'd give the putty a try and if it holds, I'd leave it in place until
spring when you can take your time with the clean-up and permanent
repair.

BTW the only thing I don't like about the epoxy putty is that Billy
Mays is now hawking something called Mighty Putty which appears to be
the same type of product. g

Whatever Billy is yakking about has nothing to do with what the product
will do. He's just a pitch man, a very good one and probably a rich one
by now. Ever notice how over the years his profile has changed? In the
most recent one with him selling jock straps for pet rats or something,
the back of his belt above his ass was like a foot higher then the
buckle. Waiting for him to sell some mirror gizmo you can epoxy to your
gut so you can see your dink again.

On Jan 4, 8:33*pm, Red Green wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote in news:ebf1c48b-17fa-49c9-97ba-
:





On Jan 4, 9:47*am, wrote:
The threaded pipe joint I installed last week for one of my home's hot
water radiators is leaking a little. *It it now obvious to me that I
didn't put enough pipe dope on when I installed. *I would prefer to
wait a few days before I redo because we're in the middle of a cold
spell. *But the pipe orientation makes it difficult to catch the drip,
so I want it to stop. *Would plumbers epoxy putty work here? *or would

the heat and lack of smooth surface (i.e. threads) doom this patch job
to instant failure? *And if it does work, would I be able to remove
the putty or does it harden so strong that I won't be able to break it
off. *I never worked with this stuff before, so I'm not familiar.

Opinions?

-Theodore.

If you are referring to the "rolls" of two part epxoy putty that you
cut and then knead together, I would think that it should work fine.

The lack of smooth surface is a plus since you want a rough surface to
give epoxy something to grab on to. I always rough up smooth surfaces
when using epoxy to give it some "bite".

As far as the heat, check the package of whatever brand you buy. The
Pro Poxy 20 available at this site says it can withstand temps up to
300 F.http://www.herchem.com/products/putty_epoxy.html

You should be able to break the seal when you are ready for a
permanent repair, although a complete clean up might take a little
time, since the epoxy will be in between the threads, etc. A dremel-
like tool with the appropriate bit comes to mind for the clean-up.

I'd give the putty a try and if it holds, I'd leave it in place until
spring when you can take your time with the clean-up and permanent
repair.

BTW the only thing I don't like about the epoxy putty is that Billy
Mays is now hawking something called Mighty Putty which appears to be
the same type of product. *g

Whatever Billy is yakking about has nothing to do with what the product
will do. He's just a pitch man, a very good one and probably a rich one
by now. Ever notice how over the years his profile has changed? In the
most recent one with him selling jock straps for pet rats or something,
the back of his belt above his ass was like a foot higher then the
buckle. Waiting for him to sell some mirror gizmo you can epoxy to your
gut so you can see your dink again.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I must admit that I haven't spent much time looking at Billy Mays' ass.

DerbyDad03 wrote in
:

On Jan 4, 8:33*pm, Red Green wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote in
news:ebf1c48b-17fa-49c9-97ba-
:





On Jan 4, 9:47*am, wrote:
The threaded pipe joint I installed last week for one of my home's
hot water radiators is leaking a little. *It it now obvious to me
that I didn't put enough pipe dope on when I installed. *I would
prefer to wait a few days before I redo because we're in the
middle of a cold spell. *But the pipe orientation makes it
difficult to catch the drip
,
so I want it to stop. *Would plumbers epoxy putty work here? *or
wo
uld

the heat and lack of smooth surface (i.e. threads) doom this patch
job to instant failure? *And if it does work, would I be able to
remove the putty or does it harden so strong that I won't be able
to break it off. *I never worked with this stuff before, so I'm
not familiar.

Opinions?

-Theodore.

If you are referring to the "rolls" of two part epxoy putty that
you cut and then knead together, I would think that it should work
fine.

The lack of smooth surface is a plus since you want a rough surface
to give epoxy something to grab on to. I always rough up smooth
surfaces when using epoxy to give it some "bite".

As far as the heat, check the package of whatever brand you buy.
The Pro Poxy 20 available at this site says it can withstand temps
up to 300 F.http://www.herchem.com/products/putty_epoxy.html

You should be able to break the seal when you are ready for a
permanent repair, although a complete clean up might take a little
time, since the epoxy will be in between the threads, etc. A
dremel- like tool with the appropriate bit comes to mind for the
clean-up.

I'd give the putty a try and if it holds, I'd leave it in place
until spring when you can take your time with the clean-up and
permanent repair.

BTW the only thing I don't like about the epoxy putty is that Billy
Mays is now hawking something called Mighty Putty which appears to
be the same type of product. *g

Whatever Billy is yakking about has nothing to do with what the
product will do. He's just a pitch man, a very good one and probably
a rich one by now. Ever notice how over the years his profile has
changed? In the most recent one with him selling jock straps for pet
rats or something, the back of his belt above his ass was like a foot
higher then the buckle. Waiting for him to sell some mirror gizmo you
can epoxy to your gut so you can see your dink again.- Hide quoted
text -

- Show quoted text -

I must admit that I haven't spent much time looking at Billy Mays'
ass.


Ouch! That hurt. :-)

On Jan 5, 8:29*pm, Red Green wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote :





On Jan 4, 8:33*pm, Red Green wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote in
news:ebf1c48b-17fa-49c9-97ba-
:

On Jan 4, 9:47*am, wrote:
The threaded pipe joint I installed last week for one of my home's
hot water radiators is leaking a little. *It it now obvious to me
that I didn't put enough pipe dope on when I installed. *I would
prefer to wait a few days before I redo because we're in the
middle of a cold spell. *But the pipe orientation makes it
difficult to catch the drip
,
so I want it to stop. *Would plumbers epoxy putty work here? *or
wo
uld

the heat and lack of smooth surface (i.e. threads) doom this patch
job to instant failure? *And if it does work, would I be able to
remove the putty or does it harden so strong that I won't be able
to break it off. *I never worked with this stuff before, so I'm
not familiar.

Opinions?

-Theodore.

If you are referring to the "rolls" of two part epxoy putty that
you cut and then knead together, I would think that it should work
fine.

The lack of smooth surface is a plus since you want a rough surface
to give epoxy something to grab on to. I always rough up smooth
surfaces when using epoxy to give it some "bite".

As far as the heat, check the package of whatever brand you buy.
The Pro Poxy 20 available at this site says it can withstand temps
up to 300 F.http://www.herchem.com/products/putty_epoxy.html

You should be able to break the seal when you are ready for a
permanent repair, although a complete clean up might take a little
time, since the epoxy will be in between the threads, etc. A
dremel- like tool with the appropriate bit comes to mind for the
clean-up.

I'd give the putty a try and if it holds, I'd leave it in place
until spring when you can take your time with the clean-up and
permanent repair.

BTW the only thing I don't like about the epoxy putty is that Billy
Mays is now hawking something called Mighty Putty which appears to
be the same type of product. *g

Whatever Billy is yakking about has nothing to do with what the
product will do. He's just a pitch man, a very good one and probably
a rich one by now. Ever notice how over the years his profile has
changed? In the most recent one with him selling jock straps for pet
rats or something, the back of his belt above his ass was like a foot
higher then the buckle. Waiting for him to sell some mirror gizmo you
can epoxy to your gut so you can see your dink again.- Hide quoted
text -

- Show quoted text -

I must admit that I haven't spent much time looking at Billy Mays'
ass.

Ouch! That hurt. :-)- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Mission accomplished. ;-)

ransley wrote:
On Jan 4, 8:47 am, wrote:
The threaded pipe joint I installed last week for one of my home's hot
water radiators is leaking a little. It it now obvious to me that I
didn't put enough pipe dope on when I installed. I would prefer to
wait a few days before I redo because we're in the middle of a cold
spell. But the pipe orientation makes it difficult to catch the drip,
so I want it to stop. Would plumbers epoxy putty work here? or would
the heat and lack of smooth surface (i.e. threads) doom this patch job
to instant failure? And if it does work, would I be able to remove
the putty or does it harden so strong that I won't be able to break it
off. I never worked with this stuff before, so I'm not familiar.

Opinions?

-Theodore.

use pipe dope then teflon tape

stupid combination doomed to failure. Use one or the other only. I
personally prefer the Teflon tape over the pipe dope. I never really
had any luck with the pipe dope. It hardens when it does work and then
is a bear to get apart for any other repairs.

Mike D.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
news:4f7bccfc-43fa-463b-a6de-

If the leak is slow enough (i.e. not a lot of pressure) it may indeed
work just fine. I have repaired a cracked PVC trap and an aluminum
gutter with similiar products, both of which had a fairly steady drip.
The trap repair lasted for many, many years until I replaced the sink.
(The gutter was replaced soon after the repair.)


If it leaks at all, the pressure will equal the water pressure, until the patch
fails.

On Jan 4, 9:47 am, wrote:
The threaded pipe joint I installed last week for one of my home's hot
water radiators is leaking a little. It it now obvious to me that I
didn't put enough pipe dope on when I installed. I would prefer to
wait a few days before I redo because we're in the middle of a cold
spell. But the pipe orientation makes it difficult to catch the drip,
so I want it to stop. Would plumbers epoxy putty work here? or would
the heat and lack of smooth surface (i.e. threads) doom this patch job
to instant failure? And if it does work, would I be able to remove
the putty or does it harden so strong that I won't be able to break it
off. I never worked with this stuff before, so I'm not familiar.

Opinions?

One or both fittings is out of round. Teflon tape, and
tighten the hell out of it.