On Jan 4, 1:46*pm, "Bob F" wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Jan 4, 12:49 pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
If you are referring to the "rolls" of two part epxoy putty that you
cut and then knead together, I would think that it should work fine.
The lack of smooth surface is a plus since you want a rough surface to
give epoxy something to grab on to. I always rough up smooth surfaces
when using epoxy to give it some "bite".
As far as the heat, check the package of whatever brand you buy. The
Pro Poxy 20 available at this site says it can withstand temps up to
300 F.http://www.herchem.com/products/putty_epoxy.html
You should be able to break the seal when you are ready for a
permanent repair, although a complete clean up might take a little
time, since the epoxy will be in between the threads, etc. A dremel-
like tool with the appropriate bit comes to mind for the clean-up.
I'd give the putty a try and if it holds, I'd leave it in place until
spring when you can take your time with the clean-up and permanent
repair.
BTW the only thing I don't like about the epoxy putty is that Billy
Mays is now hawking something called Mighty Putty which appears to be
the same type of product. g
Yes, that's what I 'm referring to. *I'll give it a try.
Thanks for the advice (and I agree with your observation about Billy
Mays.)
Epoxy on the outside of the joint is very unlikely to hold against water
pressure. It will however, make fixing the joint correctly much more difficult.
Fixing it correctly would be a lot smarter.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
While I would never disagree that a proper plumbing connection without
the use of "external materials" is the best idea, the type of epoxy we
are discussing here may indeed work in this application. See the
description of Pro Poxy 20 at this site:
http://www.herchem.com/specs/propoxy20.pdf
If the leak is slow enough (i.e. not a lot of pressure) it may indeed
work just fine. I have repaired a cracked PVC trap and an aluminum
gutter with similiar products, both of which had a fairly steady drip.
The trap repair lasted for many, many years until I replaced the sink.
(The gutter was replaced soon after the repair.)
Again - a permanent repair is the best idea, but if the OP is
reluctant to dismantle the heating system during the winter, using the
epoxy putty as a stop-gap might fit the bill.