I am putting up crown molding at the top of my kitchen cabinets. When
you are scarf jointing 2 pieces of molding at a 45, do you still cut
the molding on the miter saw upside down with the bottom molding
resting on the fence? ( similiar to doing outside and inside corners?)
I have to join 2 lengths together and was wondering before I cut what
is the correct way.

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
I am putting up crown molding at the top of my kitchen cabinets. When
you are scarf jointing 2 pieces of molding at a 45, do you still cut
the molding on the miter saw upside down with the bottom molding
resting on the fence? ( similiar to doing outside and inside corners?)
I have to join 2 lengths together and was wondering before I cut what
is the correct way.

When I did my crown molding I made some test pieces out of scrap wood on my
table saw and practiced my cuts before I tackled the crown molding. I
didn't have any molding to spare and I didn't want to make any mistakes.

On Sun, 9 Dec 2007 17:14:05 -0800 (PST), Mikepier
wrote:

I am putting up crown molding at the top of my kitchen cabinets. When
you are scarf jointing 2 pieces of molding at a 45, do you still cut
the molding on the miter saw upside down with the bottom molding
resting on the fence? ( similiar to doing outside and inside corners?)
I have to join 2 lengths together and was wondering before I cut what
is the correct way.

No. If you've got a compound miter saw, you can cut scarf joints flat
on the bed setting miter angle to 0 and tilt to 45.

If you don't have a compound saw, you can cut them with the molding
vertical against the fence, and use 45. With tall molding, this won't
work.

As previous poster said, it's always a good idea to pick up some cheap
molding (doesn't need to be exactly the same as the good stuff) to
experiment with.

HTH,

Paul F.

"Pat" wrote in message
...

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
I am putting up crown molding at the top of my kitchen cabinets. When
you are scarf jointing 2 pieces of molding at a 45, do you still cut
the molding on the miter saw upside down with the bottom molding
resting on the fence? ( similiar to doing outside and inside corners?)
I have to join 2 lengths together and was wondering before I cut what
is the correct way.

When I did my crown molding I made some test pieces out of scrap wood on
my table saw and practiced my cuts before I tackled the crown molding. I
didn't have any molding to spare and I didn't want to make any mistakes.

One thing that helps me get it cut in the correct direction is to hold the
molding in the installed position and approximate the angle cuts on it with
a pencil. The place it in the saw so the cuts are in the same direction.

Don Young

On Sun, 9 Dec 2007 17:14:05 -0800 (PST), Mikepier
wrote:

I am putting up crown molding at the top of my kitchen cabinets. When
you are scarf jointing 2 pieces of molding at a 45, do you still cut
the molding on the miter saw upside down with the bottom molding
resting on the fence? ( similiar to doing outside and inside corners?)
I have to join 2 lengths together and was wondering before I cut what
is the correct way.

No. A steeper cut than 45-degrees will make a better stronger scarf
joint because it will have more glue surface area. If you can add a
support piece to the back of the molding, all the better.

Mike,

You miter the outside corners but you cope the inside corners. The angles
are never exactly 45 so coping helps make everything fit well and look good.
A scarf joint is when you join two pieces together end to end. It's a lot
more than just some glue. Do you really want to scarf joint something in
this project?

Dave M.

On Dec 10, 8:52 am, "David L. Martel" wrote:
Mike,

You miter the outside corners but you cope the inside corners. The angles
are never exactly 45 so coping helps make everything fit well and look good.
A scarf joint is when you join two pieces together end to end. It's a lot
more than just some glue. Do you really want to scarf joint something in
this project?

Dave M.

Thats what I thought scarf jointing was for, to splice two moldings
together. What other option is there?
I'm not joining outside or inside corners.

On Dec 10, 6:37 am, Mikepier wrote:
On Dec 10, 8:52 am, "David L. Martel" wrote:

Mike,

You miter the outside corners but you cope the inside corners. The angles
are never exactly 45 so coping helps make everything fit well and look good.
A scarf joint is when you join two pieces together end to end. It's a lot
more than just some glue. Do you really want to scarf joint something in
this project?

Dave M.

Thats what I thought scarf jointing was for, to splice two moldings
together. What other option is there?
I'm not joining outside or inside corners.

You are correct. A scarf joint is used in that position. Try to make
the cut so the observer is looking 'past' the point vice against it if
possible. Minor point but it does help hide imperfections.

Harry K

Well i got it done and it looks good. That was the easy wall, Just one
straight piece wall to wall.
Next is the other wall which has a fridge and wall cabinets. No scarf
joints but a couple of outside and inside corners.
By the way, these moldings are maple, same as my cabinets from
Kraftmaid. Is maple really hard to cut? Because it seemed my miter saw
really had to work hard to cut this molding.

On Mon, 10 Dec 2007 18:36:26 -0800 (PST), Mikepier
wrote:

Well i got it done and it looks good. That was the easy wall, Just one
straight piece wall to wall.
Next is the other wall which has a fridge and wall cabinets. No scarf
joints but a couple of outside and inside corners.
By the way, these moldings are maple, same as my cabinets from
Kraftmaid. Is maple really hard to cut? Because it seemed my miter saw
really had to work hard to cut this molding.

Yes, use a sharp blade...

Mike,

I'd always called this a butt joint but I checked and you're right, It's
a scarf joint.
I don't see why you want to make this joint a compound miter. I'd simply
press the moulding flat up against the fence and make the cut. I don't think
that anything more than that will be needed.

Dave M.

On Dec 11, 9:58 am, "David L. Martel" wrote:
Mike,

I'd always called this a butt joint but I checked and you're right, It's
a scarf joint.
I don't see why you want to make this joint a compound miter. I'd simply
press the moulding flat up against the fence and make the cut. I don't think
that anything more than that will be needed.

Dave M.

Your right. I actually tested 2 pieces, one with the molding against
the fence, and one with the molding upside down at a 45 against the
fence and base. The first one looked best, so I stuck with that.

On Mon, 10 Dec 2007 18:36:26 -0800 (PST), Mikepier
wrote:

Well i got it done and it looks good. That was the easy wall, Just one
straight piece wall to wall.
Next is the other wall which has a fridge and wall cabinets. No scarf
joints but a couple of outside and inside corners.
By the way, these moldings are maple, same as my cabinets from
Kraftmaid. Is maple really hard to cut? Because it seemed my miter saw
really had to work hard to cut this molding.


Examine the cut. If it is fuzzy, your blade needs resharpening. Maple
cuts easily.