In one of the toilet tanks in my house, the heads of the bolts in the tank
look all rusty and deformed. They looked that way 3 years ago when I moved
in here, and haven't leaked yet.

Since nothing is leaking, I'm just wondering if I need to address this, or
should I leave well enough alone. Since my female friend moved out, nobody
is using the toilet on a regular basis.

FYI: This toilet is a Gerber. Replacement of the tank bolts looks like it
would involve removing the entire tank, because there are hex nuts attached
to the bolts at the bottom of the tank. The nut is between the bottom of
the tank and bowl. At the very tail end of the bolts are wing nuts. In
other words, it looks like, to access the hex nut, this would involve
unscrewing the wing nuts and lifting the entire tank, unless there are tools
thin enough to reach the hex nut. Do any such tools exist? The gap is very
small. Another issue is that the heads of the bolts appear to be so
deformed that there isn't any slot remaining to stick a screwdriver.
Should I leave well enough alone if it's not leaking?

Thanks,

J.

" wrote:

(...)
Should I leave well enough alone if it's not leaking?

Yep.

On Mon, 5 Nov 2007 06:55:42 +0000 (UTC), blessed style
wrote:


" wrote:

(...)
Should I leave well enough alone if it's not leaking?

Yep.

Or drain the tank, sponge as dry as you can and let it air dry till
it's completely dry. Then coat the heads and a little of the
surrounding tank with silicone. That way they wont rust further.

On Nov 5, 2:19?am, wrote:
On Mon, 5 Nov 2007 06:55:42 +0000 (UTC), blessed style

wrote:

" wrote:

(...)
Should I leave well enough alone if it's not leaking?

Yep.

Or drain the tank, sponge as dry as you can and let it air dry till
it's completely dry. Then coat the heads and a little of the
surrounding tank with silicone. That way they wont rust further.

at replacement time its easiest to use sawzall under tank to cut bolts
off.

I wouldnt disturb the current situation but drying and silicone is
excellent idea.

I put silicone on all drain connections at install, havent had a
single leak.

got this idea from a plumber who I had come for a stuborn leak, he did
the silicone thing.

his education cost me 80 bucks but that was 15 years ago, I have put
it to excellent use ever since!

On Mon, 05 Nov 2007 05:48:51 GMT, "
wrote:

In one of the toilet tanks in my house, the heads of the bolts in the tank
look all rusty and deformed. They looked that way 3 years ago when I moved
in here, and haven't leaked yet.

Since nothing is leaking, I'm just wondering if I need to address this, or
should I leave well enough alone. Since my female friend moved out, nobody
is using the toilet on a regular basis.

FYI: This toilet is a Gerber. Replacement of the tank bolts looks like it
would involve removing the entire tank, because there are hex nuts attached
to the bolts at the bottom of the tank. The nut is between the bottom of
the tank and bowl. At the very tail end of the bolts are wing nuts. In
other words, it looks like, to access the hex nut, this would involve
unscrewing the wing nuts and lifting the entire tank, unless there are tools
thin enough to reach the hex nut. Do any such tools exist? The gap is very
small. Another issue is that the heads of the bolts appear to be so
deformed that there isn't any slot remaining to stick a screwdriver.
Should I leave well enough alone if it's not leaking?

Thanks,

J.

Personally I wouldn't disturb it but I don't see any harm in trying to
drain the tank so that it can be dry around the bolts and then spray
some rust inhibitor and let it soak for a couple of days before
refillng the tank. Maybe it would work, maybe not but this way you
aren't disturbing the seal unless the rust is helping??

Once I had to saw off a bolt that was on the bottom of the tank
holding the guts in place and used a hacksaw (straight handle type) to
get into a cramped area. The bolt and nut were plastic and too tight
and when I tried to use various pliers it was stripping the nut so
cutting the bolt was my only remaining option. It worked and then the
rest of the job was easy. At first I dreaded the job because I didn't
know what to do but with a little thought and the right tool, it
wasn't so bad.

On Nov 5, 4:19 am, wrote:
On Mon, 5 Nov 2007 06:55:42 +0000 (UTC), blessed style

wrote:

" wrote:

(...)
Should I leave well enough alone if it's not leaking?

Yep.

Or drain the tank, sponge as dry as you can and let it air dry till
it's completely dry. Then coat the heads and a little of the
surrounding tank with silicone. That way they wont rust further.

Suggestion. Leave it alone for the moment. But eventually the bolts
may rust further and you may get drips/leaks. Have a bowl or can
ready! When it does turn off water to the toilet tank.
The bolt heads probably sit on rubber washers inside the tank, which
may also deteriorate.
Be ready when it does come time to replace, with some stainless bolts
of right length (or even a bit longer if they will fit) four or six
new rubber washers, stainless steel washers etc. You can use nuts or
wing nuts underneath to tighten, but DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN and crack the
porcelain! Just snug down gently so toilet tank does not wobble or
shift around.
One one occasion we had to work at removing a very rusty bolt; why
don't they supply brass or stainless?
A combination of pecking away at the bolt with a hacksaw blade (not
much space) and then breaking off the remainder of the bolt without
damaging the porcelain took about half an hour! With ones head at
height of the toilet bowl! Patience is a virtue. With us maintenance
is critical cos we only have one toilet. Good luck.
Silicon caulking may also help but sounds more like a temporary fix?

" wrote in message
news:79yXi.2425$b%1.1012@trnddc01...
In one of the toilet tanks in my house, the heads of the bolts in the tank
look all rusty and deformed. They looked that way 3 years ago when I
moved in here, and haven't leaked yet.

Since nothing is leaking, I'm just wondering if I need to address this, or
should I leave well enough alone. Since my female friend moved out,
nobody is using the toilet on a regular basis.

FYI: This toilet is a Gerber. Replacement of the tank bolts looks like it
would involve removing the entire tank, because there are hex nuts
attached to the bolts at the bottom of the tank. The nut is between the
bottom of the tank and bowl. At the very tail end of the bolts are wing
nuts. In other words, it looks like, to access the hex nut, this would
involve unscrewing the wing nuts and lifting the entire tank, unless there
are tools thin enough to reach the hex nut. Do any such tools exist? The
gap is very small. Another issue is that the heads of the bolts appear to
be so deformed that there isn't any slot remaining to stick a screwdriver.
Should I leave well enough alone if it's not leaking?

Thanks,

J.

Exactly. Most will corrode, so the trick is when you put new to tighten
correctly and then leave them alone until they leak, or another component
goes out and you want to do a whole rebuild.

And on that point, when my mechanisms go out, I just do the whole rebuild
kit instead of a part here this week and a different part next week. I've
done so many of them, I can do them in the dark.

Steve

observer wrote

Once I had to saw off a bolt that was on the bottom of the tank
holding the guts in place and used a hacksaw (straight handle type) to
get into a cramped area. The bolt and nut were plastic and too tight
and when I tried to use various pliers it was stripping the nut so
cutting the bolt was my only remaining option. It worked and then the
rest of the job was easy. At first I dreaded the job because I didn't
know what to do but with a little thought and the right tool, it
wasn't so bad.

Dremels work perfect for that tight space and application.

Steve

wrote:
In one of the toilet tanks in my house, the heads of the bolts in the
tank look all rusty and deformed. They looked that way 3 years ago
when I moved in here, and haven't leaked yet.

Since nothing is leaking, I'm just wondering if I need to address
this, or should I leave well enough alone. Since my female friend
moved out, nobody is using the toilet on a regular basis.


She may have moved out because females are finiky about their toilets. That
in itself is strange inasmuch as they don't look before they sit down...

I'd spray paint 'em with white Rustoleum (the bolt heads, not the females).

On Mon, 5 Nov 2007 08:30:45 -0800, "SteveB"
wrote:


observer wrote

Once I had to saw off a bolt that was on the bottom of the tank
holding the guts in place and used a hacksaw (straight handle type) to
get into a cramped area. The bolt and nut were plastic and too tight
and when I tried to use various pliers it was stripping the nut so
cutting the bolt was my only remaining option. It worked and then the
rest of the job was easy. At first I dreaded the job because I didn't
know what to do but with a little thought and the right tool, it
wasn't so bad.

Dremels work perfect for that tight space and application.

Steve


I've been thinking of buying a dremel with a lot of accessories. I
might revisit my idea and see what is available. Any good source to
buy from?? Is the battery operated one worth it or better to stick
with electric?

On Mon, 5 Nov 2007 11:40:37 -0600, "HeyBub"
wrote:

wrote:
In one of the toilet tanks in my house, the heads of the bolts in the
tank look all rusty and deformed. They looked that way 3 years ago
when I moved in here, and haven't leaked yet.

Since nothing is leaking, I'm just wondering if I need to address
this, or should I leave well enough alone. Since my female friend
moved out, nobody is using the toilet on a regular basis.


She may have moved out because females are finiky about their toilets. That
in itself is strange inasmuch as they don't look before they sit down...

I'd spray paint 'em with white Rustoleum (the bolt heads, not the females).


Well maybe that female that moved out is okay to use some Rustoleum on
but I'll let the OP be the judge of that grin .

I agree with Steve, Dremel is the greatest for that , with a
good metal cutting blade. I also used it under the kitchen
to cut the large basin nut because it was corroded and leaking.

I just got out the Dremel, cut the large nut in 2 pieces, and removed the
old drain in minutes! DO NOT FORGET SAFETY GOOGLES!!

observer wrote in message
...
On Mon, 5 Nov 2007 08:30:45 -0800, "SteveB"
wrote:


observer wrote

Once I had to saw off a bolt that was on the bottom of the tank
holding the guts in place and used a hacksaw (straight handle type) to
get into a cramped area. The bolt and nut were plastic and too tight
and when I tried to use various pliers it was stripping the nut so
cutting the bolt was my only remaining option. It worked and then the
rest of the job was easy. At first I dreaded the job because I didn't
know what to do but with a little thought and the right tool, it
wasn't so bad.

Dremels work perfect for that tight space and application.

Steve


I've been thinking of buying a dremel with a lot of accessories. I
might revisit my idea and see what is available. Any good source to
buy from?? Is the battery operated one worth it or better to stick
with electric?

It all depends on what you want to use it for. I have a Foredom, but I use
it for much more than just what one would use a Dremel for. I have way more
in carbide bits than a Dremel costs.

So, analyze what you want to use the tool for. If you want to do wood
carving, or intricate things, you might want to step up. If regular stuff
and an occasional bolt cutting is in line, then the Dremel will do just
fine. Shaft sizes are mostly the same, so you can even use the cheapo HF
and Chinese accessory packs of like 500 pieces for eight bucks.

I personally don't like the battery models, as they run out of gas before
they cut through anything substantial. And then, when I go to use the
thing, the battery is usually dead. Cords have their restrictions, too, but
they won't run out of juice. The higher speeds of the motors (I think) use
up batteries faster. And one of the new ones with a high voltage battery is
starting to get big.

Dremels, Foredoms, and other such tools are great because they do a
particular job when nothing else will, and save a lot of misery and
heartache. (As breaking the porcelain while trying to get out a bolt.)

Steve

On Mon, 5 Nov 2007 11:56:13 -0800, "SteveB"
wrote:


observer wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 5 Nov 2007 08:30:45 -0800, "SteveB"
wrote:


observer wrote

Once I had to saw off a bolt that was on the bottom of the tank
holding the guts in place and used a hacksaw (straight handle type) to
get into a cramped area. The bolt and nut were plastic and too tight
and when I tried to use various pliers it was stripping the nut so
cutting the bolt was my only remaining option. It worked and then the
rest of the job was easy. At first I dreaded the job because I didn't
know what to do but with a little thought and the right tool, it
wasn't so bad.

Dremels work perfect for that tight space and application.

Steve


I've been thinking of buying a dremel with a lot of accessories. I
might revisit my idea and see what is available. Any good source to
buy from?? Is the battery operated one worth it or better to stick
with electric?

It all depends on what you want to use it for. I have a Foredom, but I use
it for much more than just what one would use a Dremel for. I have way more
in carbide bits than a Dremel costs.

So, analyze what you want to use the tool for. If you want to do wood
carving, or intricate things, you might want to step up. If regular stuff
and an occasional bolt cutting is in line, then the Dremel will do just
fine. Shaft sizes are mostly the same, so you can even use the cheapo HF
and Chinese accessory packs of like 500 pieces for eight bucks.

I personally don't like the battery models, as they run out of gas before
they cut through anything substantial. And then, when I go to use the
thing, the battery is usually dead. Cords have their restrictions, too, but
they won't run out of juice. The higher speeds of the motors (I think) use
up batteries faster. And one of the new ones with a high voltage battery is
starting to get big.

Dremels, Foredoms, and other such tools are great because they do a
particular job when nothing else will, and save a lot of misery and
heartache. (As breaking the porcelain while trying to get out a bolt.)

Steve



Thanks Steve. You reminded me of my dad because I think he bought one
years ago and used it for wood carving (old scooners 1 to 3 foot in
length). I've got about a dozen of his (deceased now) wood boats with
masts and nylon stringing (fine detail wood work upon close
inspection) which I won't part with no matter how much money I'm
offered... consider it a family heirloom now and reserved for my 2
daughters.

Appreciate the reply Steve !!

On Mon, 05 Nov 2007 19:23:17 GMT, "Bumpy" wrote:

I agree with Steve, Dremel is the greatest for that , with a
good metal cutting blade. I also used it under the kitchen
to cut the large basin nut because it was corroded and leaking.

I just got out the Dremel, cut the large nut in 2 pieces, and removed the
old drain in minutes! DO NOT FORGET SAFETY GOOGLES!!


Thanks Bumpy also for the info. What accessories did you get to go
along with your dremel? And do you have the battery or electric one?

observer wrote:
On Mon, 05 Nov 2007 19:23:17 GMT, "Bumpy" wrote:

I agree with Steve, Dremel is the greatest for that , with a
good metal cutting blade. I also used it under the kitchen
to cut the large basin nut because it was corroded and leaking.

I just got out the Dremel, cut the large nut in 2 pieces, and
removed the old drain in minutes! DO NOT FORGET SAFETY GOOGLES!!


Thanks Bumpy also for the info. What accessories did you get to go
along with your dremel? And do you have the battery or electric one?

You won't need accessories for a simple cut-off, just the cut-off wheel.

Use of safety goggles with a Dremel is for pussies.

replying to alvinamorey, dyuc wrote:
I know this is an ancient thread, not sure if anybody will see my question,
but I'm wondering what kind of silicone to use for this? The bolts are
rusting in the toilet tank in my apartment, don't want to deal with the
landlord about it, but I'm tired of getting the bowl clean and then having the
rust from the tank stain it again. Would this GE Tub & Tile silicone caulk
that I have on hand work?
https://www.amazon.com/GE-GE284-Sili.../dp/B000PSE46S

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ts-263855-.htm

On 13/6/19 12:14 am, dyuc wrote:
replying to alvinamorey, dyuc wrote:
I know this is an ancient thread, not sure if anybody will see my question,
but I'm wondering what kind of silicone to use for this?Â* The bolts are
rusting in the toilet tank in my apartment, don't want to deal with the
landlord about it, but I'm tired of getting the bowl clean and then
having the
rust from the tank stain it again.Â*Â* Would this GE Tub & Tile silicone
caulk
that I have on hand work?
https://www.amazon.com/GE-GE284-Sili.../dp/B000PSE46S

Probably if you can clean off any rust and get a good cover.

Why not replace the bolts/nuts with stainless versions?

--

Xeno


Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)