Toilet has been in place since 1970 - 37 years.

Needs to be dis- assembled and removed for floor work and painting
of walls.

One tank bolt (brass nut, brass bolt) spun off as free and easy as
you could want.

Other one is very tight against underside of bowl flange, though you
can get a box wrench on it. Wont budge at all, whether I try to turn
the nut wih the box wrench r he bl with the real big screwdriver.

Before I try to work a Dremel cutter in there to split the nut,
(I'd really rather not be lying on the floor looking up at the nut,
even with the eye protection, trying to grind through the nut
and not screw up the bowl flange) has anybody got any
ideas on what might loosen this thing up?

Thanks in advance.

On Thu, 09 Aug 2007 13:15:37 -0700, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:

Toilet has been in place since 1970 - 37 years.

Needs to be dis- assembled and removed for floor work and painting
of walls.

One tank bolt (brass nut, brass bolt) spun off as free and easy as
you could want.

Other one is very tight against underside of bowl flange, though you
can get a box wrench on it. Wont budge at all, whether I try to turn
the nut wih the box wrench r he bl with the real big screwdriver.

Before I try to work a Dremel cutter in there to split the nut,
(I'd really rather not be lying on the floor looking up at the nut,
even with the eye protection, trying to grind through the nut
and not screw up the bowl flange) has anybody got any
ideas on what might loosen this thing up?

A larger than average screw driver to hold the tank screw - with
shoulder effort. Clasp small vise grip pliers on the bolt and start to
remove the nut. It may break, being soft brass.

--
Oren

"If things get any worse, I'll have to ask you to stop helping me."

jJim McLaughlin wrote:
Toilet has been in place since 1970 - 37 years.

Needs to be dis- assembled and removed for floor work and painting
of walls.

One tank bolt (brass nut, brass bolt) spun off as free and easy as
you could want.

Other one is very tight against underside of bowl flange, though you
can get a box wrench on it. Wont budge at all, whether I try to turn
the nut wih the box wrench r he bl with the real big screwdriver.

Before I try to work a Dremel cutter in there to split the nut,
(I'd really rather not be lying on the floor looking up at the nut,
even with the eye protection, trying to grind through the nut
and not screw up the bowl flange)

So, why not drain the tank, stand up like a man, and grind off the head
of the screw?

Then the grindings end up in the tank. G


has anybody got any
ideas on what might loosen this thing up?

Thanks in advance.


That's what they make "nut splitters" for:

http://tinyurl.com/2mbodu

Assuming there's enough room to fit it over the nut and you are willing
to invest the time and a few dollars to get one.

HTH,

Jeff



--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

Oren wrote:
On Thu, 09 Aug 2007 13:15:37 -0700, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:


Toilet has been in place since 1970 - 37 years.

Needs to be dis- assembled and removed for floor work and painting
of walls.

One tank bolt (brass nut, brass bolt) spun off as free and easy as
you could want.

Other one is very tight against underside of bowl flange, though you
can get a box wrench on it. Wont budge at all, whether I try to turn
the nut wih the box wrench r he bl with the real big screwdriver.

Before I try to work a Dremel cutter in there to split the nut,
(I'd really rather not be lying on the floor looking up at the nut,
even with the eye protection, trying to grind through the nut
and not screw up the bowl flange) has anybody got any
ideas on what might loosen this thing up?


A larger than average screw driver to hold the tank screw - with
shoulder effort. Clasp small vise grip pliers on the bolt and start to
remove the nut. It may break, being soft brass.

--
Oren

"If things get any worse, I'll have to ask you to stop helping me."

Already using the vise grips on some tries as well as using the box wrench
on some tries. Screwdrier is huge. Almost 12 inches long,
honking wide blade.

Meant to mention that I sprayed a lot of liquid wrench on nut / bolt
combination,
but that pesky gravty stuff keeps draining the liquid wrench out of /
off of
the nut / bolt.

Oren wrote:
On Thu, 09 Aug 2007 13:15:37 -0700, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:


Toilet has been in place since 1970 - 37 years.

Needs to be dis- assembled and removed for floor work and painting
of walls.

One tank bolt (brass nut, brass bolt) spun off as free and easy as
you could want.

Other one is very tight against underside of bowl flange, though you
can get a box wrench on it. Wont budge at all, whether I try to turn
the nut wih the box wrench r he bl with the real big screwdriver.

Before I try to work a Dremel cutter in there to split the nut,
(I'd really rather not be lying on the floor looking up at the nut,
even with the eye protection, trying to grind through the nut
and not screw up the bowl flange) has anybody got any
ideas on what might loosen this thing up?


A larger than average screw driver to hold the tank screw - with
shoulder effort. Clasp small vise grip pliers on the bolt and start to
remove the nut. It may break, being soft brass.

--
Oren

"If things get any worse, I'll have to ask you to stop helping me."

Already using the vise grips on some tries as well as using the box wrench
on some tries. Screwdrier is huge. Almost 12 inches long,
honking wide blade.

Meant to mention that I sprayed a lot of liquid wrench on nut / bolt
combination,
but that pesky gravty stuff keeps draining the liquid wrench out of /
off of
the nut / bolt.

On Aug 9, 6:39 pm, jJim McLaughlin wrote:
Oren wrote:
On Thu, 09 Aug 2007 13:15:37 -0700, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:

Toilet has been in place since 1970 - 37 years.

Needs to be dis- assembled and removed for floor work and painting
of walls.

One tank bolt (brass nut, brass bolt) spun off as free and easy as
you could want.

Other one is very tight against underside of bowl flange, though you
can get a box wrench on it. Wont budge at all, whether I try to turn
the nut wih the box wrench r he bl with the real big screwdriver.

Before I try to work a Dremel cutter in there to split the nut,
(I'd really rather not be lying on the floor looking up at the nut,
even with the eye protection, trying to grind through the nut
and not screw up the bowl flange) has anybody got any
ideas on what might loosen this thing up?

A larger than average screw driver to hold the tank screw - with
shoulder effort. Clasp small vise grip pliers on the bolt and start to
remove the nut. It may break, being soft brass.

--
Oren

"If things get any worse, I'll have to ask you to stop helping me."

Already using the vise grips on some tries as well as using the box wrench
on some tries. Screwdrier is huge. Almost 12 inches long,
honking wide blade.

Meant to mention that I sprayed a lot of liquid wrench on nut / bolt
combination,
but that pesky gravty stuff keeps draining the liquid wrench out of /
off of
the nut / bolt.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Why does it have to be dis-assembled for floor work and painting of
walls? Once it's removed from the floor, neither the floor nor the
walls are going to care if it's in one piece or two.

Replace the tank bolt that you removed, vacuum the water out of the
tank and bowl and remove the nuts from the johnny bolts. Now with the
help of a friend or by yourself, wiggle the entire unit off the wax
ring and floor flange and carry it out of the room. Place it on the
towel that's on the plastic bag in another room until it's ready for
re-installation.

I've removed my toilet numerous times over the past few years and
never once took the tank off the bowl.

On Thu, 09 Aug 2007 15:39:20 -0700, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:

Almost 12 inches long,
honking wide blade.

Puny! Grab a screwdriver... :-|


--
Oren

"If things get any worse, I'll have to ask you to stop helping me."

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Aug 9, 6:39 pm, jJim McLaughlin wrote:

Oren wrote:

On Thu, 09 Aug 2007 13:15:37 -0700, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:

Toilet has been in place since 1970 - 37 years.

Needs to be dis- assembled and removed for floor work and painting
of walls.

One tank bolt (brass nut, brass bolt) spun off as free and easy as
you could want.

Other one is very tight against underside of bowl flange, though you
can get a box wrench on it. Wont budge at all, whether I try to turn
the nut wih the box wrench r he bl with the real big screwdriver.

Before I try to work a Dremel cutter in there to split the nut,
(I'd really rather not be lying on the floor looking up at the nut,
even with the eye protection, trying to grind through the nut
and not screw up the bowl flange) has anybody got any
ideas on what might loosen this thing up?

A larger than average screw driver to hold the tank screw - with
shoulder effort. Clasp small vise grip pliers on the bolt and start to
remove the nut. It may break, being soft brass.

--
Oren

"If things get any worse, I'll have to ask you to stop helping me."

Already using the vise grips on some tries as well as using the box wrench
on some tries. Screwdrier is huge. Almost 12 inches long,
honking wide blade.

Meant to mention that I sprayed a lot of liquid wrench on nut / bolt
combination,
but that pesky gravty stuff keeps draining the liquid wrench out of /
off of
the nut / bolt.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Why does it have to be dis-assembled for floor work and painting of
walls? Once it's removed from the floor, neither the floor nor the
walls are going to care if it's in one piece or two.

Replace the tank bolt that you removed, vacuum the water out of the
tank and bowl and remove the nuts from the johnny bolts. Now with the
help of a friend or by yourself, wiggle the entire unit off the wax
ring and floor flange and carry it out of the room. Place it on the
towel that's on the plastic bag in another room until it's ready for
re-installation.

I've removed my toilet numerous times over the past few years and
never once took the tank off the bowl.

You do it your way, I'll do it my way.

I've probably moved and removed 10 of 'em during the past 35 years,
never kept them assembled when doing it.

jJim McLaughlin wrote in
:

Oren wrote:
On Thu, 09 Aug 2007 13:15:37 -0700, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:


Toilet has been in place since 1970 - 37 years.

Needs to be dis- assembled and removed for floor work and painting
of walls.

One tank bolt (brass nut, brass bolt) spun off as free and easy as
you could want.

Other one is very tight against underside of bowl flange, though you
can get a box wrench on it. Wont budge at all, whether I try to turn
the nut wih the box wrench r he bl with the real big screwdriver.

Before I try to work a Dremel cutter in there to split the nut,
(I'd really rather not be lying on the floor looking up at the nut,
even with the eye protection, trying to grind through the nut
and not screw up the bowl flange) has anybody got any
ideas on what might loosen this thing up?


A larger than average screw driver to hold the tank screw - with
shoulder effort. Clasp small vise grip pliers on the bolt and start
to remove the nut. It may break, being soft brass.

--
Oren

"If things get any worse, I'll have to ask you to stop helping me."

Already using the vise grips on some tries as well as using the box
wrench on some tries. Screwdrier is huge. Almost 12 inches long,
honking wide blade.

Meant to mention that I sprayed a lot of liquid wrench on nut / bolt
combination,
but that pesky gravty stuff keeps draining the liquid wrench out of /
off of
the nut / bolt.



Cut the bolt if it's like most toilets. Should be exposed because tank
sits on the rubber gasket (aka spud washer). See:

http://www.smartplumber.org/images/t...y2-425x319.jpg

Reciprocating saw makes it a breeze if you have one. If not, get a hack
saw like this:

http://www.electronics123.net/amazon/pictures/vtms1.jpg
http://www.abmtools.com/images/Saws_...Hack_heavy.jpg

Or the super cheap way toss some duct tape around one end of just a
hacksaw blade and just saw. As said, it's brass so it's soft to cut.

On Thu, 09 Aug 2007 13:15:37 -0700, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:

Toilet has been in place since 1970 - 37 years.

Needs to be dis- assembled and removed for floor work and painting
of walls.

One tank bolt (brass nut, brass bolt) spun off as free and easy as
you could want.

Other one is very tight against underside of bowl flange, though you
can get a box wrench on it. Wont budge at all, whether I try to turn
the nut wih the box wrench r he bl with the real big screwdriver.

Before I try to work a Dremel cutter in there to split the nut,
(I'd really rather not be lying on the floor looking up at the nut,
even with the eye protection, trying to grind through the nut
and not screw up the bowl flange) has anybody got any
ideas on what might loosen this thing up?

Thanks in advance.

I usually use a hacksaw to cut through the bolt between the tank and
the base. Normally there's enough clearance to use a regular hacksaw,
but if not, I just use the blade with one of those single ended
holders. Or you can wrap the end of the blade in duct tape to make a
temporary handle. Best to use a fine pitch blade. Takes 2 minutes
tops.

HTH,

Paul

On Aug 9, 9:20 pm, jJim McLaughlin wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Aug 9, 6:39 pm, jJim McLaughlin wrote:

Oren wrote:

On Thu, 09 Aug 2007 13:15:37 -0700, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:

Toilet has been in place since 1970 - 37 years.

Needs to be dis- assembled and removed for floor work and painting
of walls.

One tank bolt (brass nut, brass bolt) spun off as free and easy as
you could want.

Other one is very tight against underside of bowl flange, though you
can get a box wrench on it. Wont budge at all, whether I try to turn
the nut wih the box wrench r he bl with the real big screwdriver.

Before I try to work a Dremel cutter in there to split the nut,
(I'd really rather not be lying on the floor looking up at the nut,
even with the eye protection, trying to grind through the nut
and not screw up the bowl flange) has anybody got any
ideas on what might loosen this thing up?

A larger than average screw driver to hold the tank screw - with
shoulder effort. Clasp small vise grip pliers on the bolt and start to
remove the nut. It may break, being soft brass.

--
Oren

"If things get any worse, I'll have to ask you to stop helping me."

Already using the vise grips on some tries as well as using the box wrench
on some tries. Screwdrier is huge. Almost 12 inches long,
honking wide blade.

Meant to mention that I sprayed a lot of liquid wrench on nut / bolt
combination,
but that pesky gravty stuff keeps draining the liquid wrench out of /
off of
the nut / bolt.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Why does it have to be dis-assembled for floor work and painting of
walls? Once it's removed from the floor, neither the floor nor the
walls are going to care if it's in one piece or two.

Replace the tank bolt that you removed, vacuum the water out of the
tank and bowl and remove the nuts from the johnny bolts. Now with the
help of a friend or by yourself, wiggle the entire unit off the wax
ring and floor flange and carry it out of the room. Place it on the
towel that's on the plastic bag in another room until it's ready for
re-installation.

I've removed my toilet numerous times over the past few years and
never once took the tank off the bowl.

- You do it your way, I'll do it my way.

OK

- I've probably moved and removed 10 of 'em during the past 35 years,
- never kept them assembled when doing it.

Why not?

Paul Franklin wrote:
On Thu, 09 Aug 2007 13:15:37 -0700, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:


Toilet has been in place since 1970 - 37 years.

Needs to be dis- assembled and removed for floor work and painting
of walls.

One tank bolt (brass nut, brass bolt) spun off as free and easy as
you could want.

Other one is very tight against underside of bowl flange, though you
can get a box wrench on it. Wont budge at all, whether I try to turn
the nut wih the box wrench r he bl with the real big screwdriver.

Before I try to work a Dremel cutter in there to split the nut,
(I'd really rather not be lying on the floor looking up at the nut,
even with the eye protection, trying to grind through the nut
and not screw up the bowl flange) has anybody got any
ideas on what might loosen this thing up?

Thanks in advance.


I usually use a hacksaw to cut through the bolt between the tank and
the base. Normally there's enough clearance to use a regular hacksaw,
but if not, I just use the blade with one of those single ended
holders. Or you can wrap the end of the blade in duct tape to make a
temporary handle. Best to use a fine pitch blade. Takes 2 minutes
tops.

HTH,

Paul

I like that!

Awright. I have a fancy hacksaw thingy that has a handle like a
pistol,
no hoop, single ended. That'll work fine.


First thing AM.

Thanks.

On Aug 9, 8:36 pm, Al Bundy wrote:
jJim McLaughlin wrote :





Oren wrote:
On Thu, 09 Aug 2007 13:15:37 -0700, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:

Toilet has been in place since 1970 - 37 years.

Needs to be dis- assembled and removed for floor work and painting
of walls.

One tank bolt (brass nut, brass bolt) spun off as free and easy as
you could want.

Other one is very tight against underside of bowl flange, though you
can get a box wrench on it. Wont budge at all, whether I try to turn
the nut wih the box wrench r he bl with the real big screwdriver.

Before I try to work a Dremel cutter in there to split the nut,
(I'd really rather not be lying on the floor looking up at the nut,
even with the eye protection, trying to grind through the nut
and not screw up the bowl flange) has anybody got any
ideas on what might loosen this thing up?

A larger than average screw driver to hold the tank screw - with
shoulder effort. Clasp small vise grip pliers on the bolt and start
to remove the nut. It may break, being soft brass.

--
Oren

"If things get any worse, I'll have to ask you to stop helping me."

Already using the vise grips on some tries as well as using the box
wrench on some tries. Screwdrier is huge. Almost 12 inches long,
honking wide blade.

Meant to mention that I sprayed a lot of liquid wrench on nut / bolt
combination,
but that pesky gravty stuff keeps draining the liquid wrench out of /
off of
the nut / bolt.

Cut the bolt if it's like most toilets. Should be exposed because tank
sits on the rubber gasket (aka spud washer). See:

http://www.smartplumber.org/images/t...y2-425x319.jpg

Reciprocating saw makes it a breeze if you have one. If not, get a hack
saw like this:

http://www.electronics123.net/amazon...Hack_heavy.jpg

Or the super cheap way toss some duct tape around one end of just a
hacksaw blade and just saw. As said, it's brass so it's soft to cut.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If your just removing the entire toilet, why do you need to take off
the tank at all? Just unbolt the toilet from the flange on the
flloor, unhook water line and remove.

on 8/9/2007 10:54 PM DerbyDad03 said the following:
On Aug 9, 9:20 pm, jJim McLaughlin wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Aug 9, 6:39 pm, jJim McLaughlin wrote:

Oren wrote:

On Thu, 09 Aug 2007 13:15:37 -0700, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:

Toilet has been in place since 1970 - 37 years.

Needs to be dis- assembled and removed for floor work and painting
of walls.

One tank bolt (brass nut, brass bolt) spun off as free and easy as
you could want.

Other one is very tight against underside of bowl flange, though you
can get a box wrench on it. Wont budge at all, whether I try to turn
the nut wih the box wrench r he bl with the real big screwdriver.

Before I try to work a Dremel cutter in there to split the nut,
(I'd really rather not be lying on the floor looking up at the nut,
even with the eye protection, trying to grind through the nut
and not screw up the bowl flange) has anybody got any
ideas on what might loosen this thing up?

A larger than average screw driver to hold the tank screw - with
shoulder effort. Clasp small vise grip pliers on the bolt and start to
remove the nut. It may break, being soft brass.

--
Oren

"If things get any worse, I'll have to ask you to stop helping me."

Already using the vise grips on some tries as well as using the box wrench
on some tries. Screwdrier is huge. Almost 12 inches long,
honking wide blade.

Meant to mention that I sprayed a lot of liquid wrench on nut / bolt
combination,
but that pesky gravty stuff keeps draining the liquid wrench out of /
off of
the nut / bolt.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Why does it have to be dis-assembled for floor work and painting of
walls? Once it's removed from the floor, neither the floor nor the
walls are going to care if it's in one piece or two.

Replace the tank bolt that you removed, vacuum the water out of the
tank and bowl and remove the nuts from the johnny bolts. Now with the
help of a friend or by yourself, wiggle the entire unit off the wax
ring and floor flange and carry it out of the room. Place it on the
towel that's on the plastic bag in another room until it's ready for
re-installation.

I've removed my toilet numerous times over the past few years and
never once took the tank off the bowl.

- You do it your way, I'll do it my way.

OK

- I've probably moved and removed 10 of 'em during the past 35 years,
- never kept them assembled when doing it.

Why not?

Too heavy with the water in the tank and bowl. :-)

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On 10 Aug, 05:07, wrote:
On Aug 9, 8:36 pm, Al Bundy wrote:





jJim McLaughlin wrote :

Oren wrote:
On Thu, 09 Aug 2007 13:15:37 -0700, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:

Toilet has been in place since 1970 - 37 years.

Needs to be dis- assembled and removed for floor work and painting
of walls.

One tank bolt (brass nut, brass bolt) spun off as free and easy as
you could want.

Other one is very tight against underside of bowl flange, though you
can get a box wrench on it. Wont budge at all, whether I try to turn
the nut wih the box wrench r he bl with the real big screwdriver.

Before I try to work a Dremel cutter in there to split the nut,
(I'd really rather not be lying on the floor looking up at the nut,
even with the eye protection, trying to grind through the nut
and not screw up the bowl flange) has anybody got any
ideas on what might loosen this thing up?

A larger than average screw driver to hold the tank screw - with
shoulder effort. Clasp small vise grip pliers on the bolt and start
to remove the nut. It may break, being soft brass.

--
Oren

"If things get any worse, I'll have to ask you to stop helping me."

Already using the vise grips on some tries as well as using the box
wrench on some tries. Screwdrier is huge. Almost 12 inches long,
honking wide blade.

Meant to mention that I sprayed a lot of liquid wrench on nut / bolt
combination,
but that pesky gravty stuff keeps draining the liquid wrench out of /
off of
the nut / bolt.

Cut the bolt if it's like most toilets. Should be exposed because tank
sits on the rubber gasket (aka spud washer). See:

http://www.smartplumber.org/images/t...y2-425x319.jpg

Reciprocating saw makes it a breeze if you have one. If not, get a hack
saw like this:

http://www.electronics123.net/amazon...http://www.abm...

Or the super cheap way toss some duct tape around one end of just a
hacksaw blade and just saw. As said, it's brass so it's soft to cut.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If your just removing the entire toilet, why do you need to take off
the tank at all? Just unbolt the toilet from the flange on the
flloor, unhook water line and remove.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Watch out...I suggested that earlier and got what *appeared* to be a
rather terse response.

I quote..

"You do it your way, I'll do it my way.

I've probably moved and removed 10 of 'em during the past 35
years,
never kept them assembled when doing it."

I'm still not sure why, but whatever floats his
floaters....errr...boat.

If you are smart, you'll replace the brass bolts with stainless steel.
"Brass" is usually crappy brass plating on steel and rusts way like
mad. Even solid brass bolts aren't as good as stainless steel.

On Fri, 10 Aug 2007 11:42:54 -0700, wrote:

If you are smart, you'll replace the brass bolts with stainless steel.
"Brass" is usually crappy brass plating on steel and rusts way like
mad. Even solid brass bolts aren't as good as stainless steel.

I might use stainless in or around a boat and the ocean. For a
crapper; why change my brass? They come in the kit at not additional
cost!


--
Oren

"My doctor says I have a malformed public-duty gland
and a natural deficiency in moral fiber, and that I am therefore
excused from saving Universes."

Disassembly allows you to replace seals, gaskets, etc. Flush
valve.

Keeping it in one piece may actually be easier. Is for me...

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
..

"jJim McLaughlin" wrote in message
. ..
:
: I've removed my toilet numerous times over the past few years
and
: never once took the tank off the bowl.
:
: You do it your way, I'll do it my way.
:
: I've probably moved and removed 10 of 'em during the past 35
years,
: never kept them assembled when doing it.

Remove water, and move the water separately. Put water back in,
after moving toilet.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
..

"willshak" wrote in message
...
:
: - I've probably moved and removed 10 of 'em during the past
35 years,
: - never kept them assembled when doing it.
:
: Why not?
:
: Too heavy with the water in the tank and bowl. :-)
:
: --
:
: Bill
: In Hamptonburgh, NY
: To email, remove the double zeroes after @

Paul Franklin wrote in
news
On Thu, 09 Aug 2007 13:15:37 -0700, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:

Toilet has been in place since 1970 - 37 years.

Needs to be dis- assembled and removed for floor work and painting
of walls.

One tank bolt (brass nut, brass bolt) spun off as free and easy as
you could want.

Other one is very tight against underside of bowl flange, though you
can get a box wrench on it. Wont budge at all, whether I try to turn
the nut wih the box wrench r he bl with the real big screwdriver.

Before I try to work a Dremel cutter in there to split the nut,
(I'd really rather not be lying on the floor looking up at the nut,
even with the eye protection, trying to grind through the nut
and not screw up the bowl flange) has anybody got any
ideas on what might loosen this thing up?

Thanks in advance.

I usually use a hacksaw to cut through the bolt between the tank and
the base. Normally there's enough clearance to use a regular hacksaw,
but if not, I just use the blade with one of those single ended
holders. Or you can wrap the end of the blade in duct tape to make a
temporary handle. Best to use a fine pitch blade. Takes 2 minutes
tops.

HTH,

Paul




Takes 2 minutes tops.

I've never been able to get it in under 2:07. Amateur I guess... :-)

Use a nut-splitter . It's an inexpensive tool thats very easy to use. I used
one on a toilet bowl the other day .

"Al Bundy" wrote in message
...
Paul Franklin wrote in
news
On Thu, 09 Aug 2007 13:15:37 -0700, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:

Toilet has been in place since 1970 - 37 years.

Needs to be dis- assembled and removed for floor work and painting
of walls.

One tank bolt (brass nut, brass bolt) spun off as free and easy as
you could want.

Other one is very tight against underside of bowl flange, though you
can get a box wrench on it. Wont budge at all, whether I try to turn
the nut wih the box wrench r he bl with the real big screwdriver.

Before I try to work a Dremel cutter in there to split the nut,
(I'd really rather not be lying on the floor looking up at the nut,
even with the eye protection, trying to grind through the nut
and not screw up the bowl flange) has anybody got any
ideas on what might loosen this thing up?

Thanks in advance.

I usually use a hacksaw to cut through the bolt between the tank and
the base. Normally there's enough clearance to use a regular hacksaw,
but if not, I just use the blade with one of those single ended
holders. Or you can wrap the end of the blade in duct tape to make a
temporary handle. Best to use a fine pitch blade. Takes 2 minutes
tops.

HTH,

Paul




Takes 2 minutes tops.

I've never been able to get it in under 2:07. Amateur I guess... :-)