I know that is poor English. The toilet doesn't flush itself.
Someone has to push the lever. But I've had the rooter people out
twice now, and they have used the wire thing on the entire house, and
it took 3 flushes this morning to make everything go down. The rooter
guy looked into an access point and didn't see any backup water, and
the washer drain fine, and nothing else backs up, so I wonder what
makes a toilet flush slowly. What is the chance that the air tube to
roof is clogged in some way?

On Oct 20, 9:44?am, AE Todd wrote:
I know that is poor English. The toilet doesn't flush itself.
Someone has to push the lever. But I've had the rooter people out
twice now, and they have used the wire thing on the entire house, and
it took 3 flushes this morning to make everything go down. The rooter
guy looked into an access point and didn't see any backup water, and
the washer drain fine, and nothing else backs up, so I wonder what
makes a toilet flush slowly. What is the chance that the air tube to
roof is clogged in some way?

try flushing with a bucket of water, just dump it in.

if it flushes ok the drain lines and everything else is fine and the
trouble is the toilet.

poor flush means you have line troubles.

if it flushes well with bucket of water the trouble is quickly and
easily solved with 20 minutes careful work and at under 10 bucks.

On Oct 20, 9:44 am, AE Todd wrote:
I know that is poor English. The toilet doesn't flush itself.
Someone has to push the lever. But I've had the rooter people out
twice now, and they have used the wire thing on the entire house, and
it took 3 flushes this morning to make everything go down. The rooter
guy looked into an access point and didn't see any backup water, and
the washer drain fine, and nothing else backs up, so I wonder what
makes a toilet flush slowly. What is the chance that the air tube to
roof is clogged in some way?

Pour a bucket of water in the toilet. If it flushes fine, you might
have what is known as a "sluggish toilet".
Try this...

Stolen without permission from http://en.allexperts.com/q/Plumbing-...ish-toilet.htm

*** Begin Included Text ***

Does the water raise in the bowl , swirl around and then drain down
without completely flushing, leaving the solids behind? If so I have
a solution that most repair plumbers miss. Look down at the bottom of
the bowl. If there is a small hole, then that is a jet that starts
the syphon action. If it's clogged the water will just swirl around
and slowly go down leaving solids behind. Take your finger,(UGH!!) and
run it around the inside of the opening. Over the years minerals
build up and cut down on the syphon (flush) action. If it is rough or
you feel build up, take a table knife and put a bend in it to get
around the curve in the bowl and chip and scrap it clear. Next take a
coathanger and clear out the holes around the rim. They start the
swirling action. And last, check the water level in the tank. It
should be 1/2" below the top of the over flow tube.

*** End Included Text ***

RLM wrote:

Change to a diet with more fiber.

NO!

Fiber causes "floaters." He needs "sinkers."

Red meat, that's the ticket. Yum.

if the toilet flushes solids well with a bucket.

by a gallon of muriatic acid, safety glasses and a funnel one that
will fit in the dip tube top opening.

put on safety glasses, open window, it will smell bad.

put funnel in dip tube, take deep breathe, pour a quart or so in
funnel, avoid splashing,,,,,leave room. shut door.

20 minutes later flush toilet 10 times minimum. to clean out the acid.

this will clean the bowl rim passages, the passage at the bottom, and
all the interior passages inside the toilet.

you can drain toliet bowl if you want but thats not really necessary.

the acid dissolves hard water sediment in the lines and openings.

total cost 1/2 hour and under 10 bucks

On Oct 20, 3:40 pm, " wrote:
if the toilet flushes solids well with a bucket.

by a gallon of muriatic acid, safety glasses and a funnel one that
will fit in the dip tube top opening.

put on safety glasses, open window, it will smell bad.

put funnel in dip tube, take deep breathe, pour a quart or so in
funnel, avoid splashing,,,,,leave room. shut door.

20 minutes later flush toilet 10 times minimum. to clean out the acid.

this will clean the bowl rim passages, the passage at the bottom, and
all the interior passages inside the toilet.

you can drain toliet bowl if you want but thats not really necessary.

the acid dissolves hard water sediment in the lines and openings.

total cost 1/2 hour and under 10 bucks

If you are going to use this suggestion, PLEASE (and I *never*
capatilize in a post) read the info at this site:

Hydrochloric Acid, 33 - 40% - Synonyms: Muriatic acid; hydrogen
chloride
http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/H3880.htm

You really should know what you are dealing with before you start.

On Sat, 20 Oct 2007 13:00:02 -0700, DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Oct 20, 3:40 pm, " wrote:
if the toilet flushes solids well with a bucket.

by a gallon of muriatic acid, safety glasses and a funnel one that
will fit in the dip tube top opening.

put on safety glasses, open window, it will smell bad.

put funnel in dip tube, take deep breathe, pour a quart or so in
funnel, avoid splashing,,,,,leave room. shut door.

20 minutes later flush toilet 10 times minimum. to clean out the acid.

this will clean the bowl rim passages, the passage at the bottom, and
all the interior passages inside the toilet.

you can drain toliet bowl if you want but thats not really necessary.

the acid dissolves hard water sediment in the lines and openings.

total cost 1/2 hour and under 10 bucks

If you are going to use this suggestion, PLEASE (and I *never*
capatilize in a post) read the info at this site:

Hydrochloric Acid, 33 - 40% - Synonyms: Muriatic acid; hydrogen
chloride
http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/H3880.htm

You really should know what you are dealing with before you start.

You both are correct. I've used hallerb's method. I suggest your
entire comment be moved to the top as a disclaimer of sort..

--
Oren

Why is there only one Monopolies Commission ?

On Oct 20, 3:00 pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Oct 20, 3:40 pm, " wrote:





if the toilet flushes solids well with a bucket.

by a gallon of muriatic acid, safety glasses and a funnel one that
will fit in the dip tube top opening.

put on safety glasses, open window, it will smell bad.

put funnel in dip tube, take deep breathe, pour a quart or so in
funnel, avoid splashing,,,,,leave room. shut door.

20 minutes later flush toilet 10 times minimum. to clean out the acid.

this will clean the bowl rim passages, the passage at the bottom, and
all the interior passages inside the toilet.

you can drain toliet bowl if you want but thats not really necessary.

the acid dissolves hard water sediment in the lines and openings.

total cost 1/2 hour and under 10 bucks

If you are going to use this suggestion, PLEASE (and I *never*
capatilize in a post) read the info at this site:

Hydrochloric Acid, 33 - 40% - Synonyms: Muriatic acid; hydrogen
chloridehttp://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/H3880.htm

You really should know what you are dealing with before you start.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And then get ready for the china to start looking older as this will
with time take the finish off glazing The holes around the rim are not
the promblem but the siphon hole could be as was suggested try a small
wire in it also try it in the rim holes . If you see any rust around
the tunnel entrance it is a sign that the toilet needs to be replaced
as it is shaling inside and this not repairable. Shaling will cause
the hole to get smaller and the water and waste cannot get thru as
well as once did. How old if 20 yrs or more get a new one and the
promblem will be solved .

"AE Todd" wrote in message
I know that is poor English. The toilet doesn't flush itself.
Someone has to push the lever. But I've had the rooter people out
twice now, and they have used the wire thing on the entire house, and
it took 3 flushes this morning to make everything go down. The rooter
guy looked into an access point and didn't see any backup water, and
the washer drain fine, and nothing else backs up, so I wonder what
makes a toilet flush slowly. What is the chance that the air tube to
roof is clogged in some way?

Maybe everyone in your household, needs to eat more fiber.

On Sat, 20 Oct 2007 14:20:12 -0700, jim wrote:

On Oct 20, 3:00 pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Oct 20, 3:40 pm, " wrote:


if the toilet flushes solids well with a bucket.

by a gallon of muriatic acid, safety glasses and a funnel one that
will fit in the dip tube top opening.

put on safety glasses, open window, it will smell bad.

put funnel in dip tube, take deep breathe, pour a quart or so in
funnel, avoid splashing,,,,,leave room. shut door.

20 minutes later flush toilet 10 times minimum. to clean out the acid.

this will clean the bowl rim passages, the passage at the bottom, and
all the interior passages inside the toilet.

you can drain toliet bowl if you want but thats not really necessary.

the acid dissolves hard water sediment in the lines and openings.

total cost 1/2 hour and under 10 bucks

If you are going to use this suggestion, PLEASE (and I *never*
capatilize in a post) read the info at this site:

Hydrochloric Acid, 33 - 40% - Synonyms: Muriatic acid; hydrogen
chloridehttp://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/H3880.htm

You really should know what you are dealing with before you start.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And then get ready for the china to start looking older as this will
with time take the finish off glazing The holes around the rim are not
the promblem but the siphon hole could be as was suggested try a small
wire in it also try it in the rim holes . If you see any rust around
the tunnel entrance it is a sign that the toilet needs to be replaced
as it is shaling inside and this not repairable. Shaling will cause
the hole to get smaller and the water and waste cannot get thru as
well as once did. How old if 20 yrs or more get a new one and the
promblem will be solved .

Four strikes. You're out.

" the acid dissolves hard water sediment "

Is your _Shaling_ the same as calcification or hard water sediment
deposits?

--
Oren

"I wouldn't even be here if my support group hadn't beaten me up."

On Sat, 20 Oct 2007 14:23:45 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

RLM wrote:

Change to a diet with more fiber.

NO!

Fiber causes "floaters." He needs "sinkers."

Red meat, that's the ticket. Yum.


That's real meat, not the runny dog food they put in frozen or canned
"beef" Mexican food.

On Sat, 20 Oct 2007 12:40:56 -0700, "
wrote:

if the toilet flushes solids well with a bucket.

by a gallon of muriatic acid, safety glasses and a funnel one that
will fit in the dip tube top opening.

put on safety glasses, open window, it will smell bad.

put funnel in dip tube, take deep breathe,

Deep BREATHS mould be much more satisfying.

pour a quart or so in
funnel, avoid splashing,,,,,leave room. shut door.

20 minutes later flush toilet 10 times minimum. to clean out the acid.

this will clean the bowl rim passages, the passage at the bottom, and
all the interior passages inside the toilet.

you can drain toliet bowl if you want but thats not really necessary.

the acid dissolves hard water sediment in the lines and openings.

total cost 1/2 hour and under 10 bucks

On Oct 20, 5:20?pm, jim wrote:
On Oct 20, 3:00 pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:





On Oct 20, 3:40 pm, " wrote:

if the toilet flushes solids well with a bucket.

by a gallon of muriatic acid, safety glasses and a funnel one that
will fit in the dip tube top opening.

put on safety glasses, open window, it will smell bad.

put funnel in dip tube, take deep breathe, pour a quart or so in
funnel, avoid splashing,,,,,leave room. shut door.

20 minutes later flush toilet 10 times minimum. to clean out the acid.

this will clean the bowl rim passages, the passage at the bottom, and
all the interior passages inside the toilet.

you can drain toliet bowl if you want but thats not really necessary.

the acid dissolves hard water sediment in the lines and openings.

total cost 1/2 hour and under 10 bucks

If you are going to use this suggestion, PLEASE (and I *never*
capatilize in a post) read the info at this site:

Hydrochloric Acid, 33 - 40% - Synonyms: Muriatic acid; hydrogen
chloridehttp://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/H3880.htm

You really should know what you are dealing with before you start.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And then get ready for the china to start looking older as this will
with time take the finish off glazing The holes around the rim are not
the promblem but the siphon hole could be as was suggested try a small
wire in it also try it in the rim holes . If you see any rust around
the tunnel entrance it is a sign that the toilet needs to be replaced
as it is shaling inside and this not repairable. Shaling will cause
the hole to get smaller and the water and waste cannot get thru as
well as once did. How old if 20 yrs or more get a new one and the
promblem will be solved .- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

well around here hard water is common, and the problem is definetely
the rim holes, which clog over time, you can try opening them with a
coat hanger end but that doesnt address the gunk in the interior
passages.

when first seeing this trouble I tried CLR that hard water remover its
blue green color. dumped it down the dip tube i could see it didnt
come out the front of the bowl rim passages at all.

Now dont do this excessively, its a stong solution to a serious clog
not a clean toilet weekly item.

now it might lead to a earlier toilet replacement, but then again a
toilet that cant flush is garbage anyway, so what do you have to lose?

On Oct 20, 4:00?pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Oct 20, 3:40 pm, " wrote:





if the toilet flushes solids well with a bucket.

by a gallon of muriatic acid, safety glasses and a funnel one that
will fit in the dip tube top opening.

put on safety glasses, open window, it will smell bad.

put funnel in dip tube, take deep breathe, pour a quart or so in
funnel, avoid splashing,,,,,leave room. shut door.

20 minutes later flush toilet 10 times minimum. to clean out the acid.

this will clean the bowl rim passages, the passage at the bottom, and
all the interior passages inside the toilet.

you can drain toliet bowl if you want but thats not really necessary.

the acid dissolves hard water sediment in the lines and openings.

total cost 1/2 hour and under 10 bucks

If you are going to use this suggestion, PLEASE (and I *never*
capatilize in a post) read the info at this site:

Hydrochloric Acid, 33 - 40% - Synonyms: Muriatic acid; hydrogen
chloridehttp://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/H3880.htm

You really should know what you are dealing with before you start.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

you know that site would scare anyone. I was very reluctant the first
time I tried it myself.

but theres must be different concentrations available and the kind
sold at the hardware store is mostly sold for brick cleaning.

I wondered how much it would burn and tried a tiny bit on my finger.
nothing no reaction.

then put a small spot on my hand, waited a minute, and rinsed it off.
no burn no nothing except a dry spot the next day, hand cream took
care of that.

so use common sense, window open safety glasses for sure, rubber
gloves a good idea.

but dont go overboard its really not that noxious, other than smell.

AE Todd wrote:
I know that is poor English. The toilet doesn't flush itself.
Someone has to push the lever. But I've had the rooter people out
twice now, and they have used the wire thing on the entire house, and
it took 3 flushes this morning to make everything go down. The rooter
guy looked into an access point and didn't see any backup water, and
the washer drain fine, and nothing else backs up, so I wonder what
makes a toilet flush slowly. What is the chance that the air tube to
roof is clogged in some way?

Real good; and, it'll make it flush slowly. Didn't the guy snake it too?
Should have.