Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..I live in Northeast PA and treated
my lawn in the spring for crabgrass & weeds (dandelion etc,)..we have had a
very dry summer and since I didn't cut my grass (nothing was growing the
lawn turned brown) crabgrass took over,,2 yrs ago I had a company do
everything & the lawn looked great but it was getting to costly so I did it
myself..What can I do to stop the crabgrass & prevent the spread of it..CAn
I do anything in the FALL or do I have to wait until SPRING...please
HELP!!!!.

john246 wrote:
Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..I live in Northeast PA and treated
my lawn in the spring for crabgrass & weeds (dandelion etc,)..we have had a
very dry summer and since I didn't cut my grass (nothing was growing the
lawn turned brown) crabgrass took over,,2 yrs ago I had a company do
everything & the lawn looked great but it was getting to costly so I did it
myself..What can I do to stop the crabgrass & prevent the spread of it..CAn
I do anything in the FALL or do I have to wait until SPRING...please
HELP!!!!.


I'd wait until spring and put pre-emergent down. Good rule of thumb is
to do it before forsythias bloom. You may have been too late this year.
Do the weeds later.

On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 18:56:05 -0400, "john246"
wrote:

Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..I live in Northeast PA and treated
my lawn in the spring for crabgrass & weeds (dandelion etc,)..we have had a
very dry summer and since I didn't cut my grass (nothing was growing the
lawn turned brown) crabgrass took over,,2 yrs ago I had a company do
everything & the lawn looked great but it was getting to costly so I did it
myself..What can I do to stop the crabgrass & prevent the spread of it..CAn
I do anything in the FALL or do I have to wait until SPRING...please
HELP!!!!.

Try watering your lawn.

On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 18:56:05 -0400, "john246"
wrote:

Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..I live in Northeast PA and treated
my lawn in the spring for crabgrass & weeds (dandelion etc,)..we have had a
very dry summer and since I didn't cut my grass (nothing was growing the
lawn turned brown) crabgrass took over,,2 yrs ago I had a company do
everything & the lawn looked great but it was getting to costly so I did it
myself..What can I do to stop the crabgrass & prevent the spread of it..CAn
I do anything in the FALL or do I have to wait until SPRING...please
HELP!!!!.



The crabgrass will die at the first frost. What you need to do now is
to heavily overseed your lawn and apply a time-release STARTER
fertilizer. Remove any dead grass from your lawn before overseeding
and mow to the lowest setting the day of the overseeding. You may
need to protect areas with straw. Keep watered for 2 weeks. Next
spring apply pre-emergence and apply again after 90 days. Overseed
again in fall 2008. Crabgrass seeds can remain dormant for over 15
years, but it has hard time sprouting in a thick lawn. Buy the
highest quality weedless seed you can find.

john246 wrote:
Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..I live in Northeast PA and treated
my lawn in the spring for crabgrass & weeds (dandelion etc,)..we have had a
very dry summer and since I didn't cut my grass (nothing was growing the
lawn turned brown) crabgrass took over,,2 yrs ago I had a company do
everything & the lawn looked great but it was getting to costly so I did it
myself..What can I do to stop the crabgrass & prevent the spread of it..CAn
I do anything in the FALL or do I have to wait until SPRING...please
HELP!!!!.


Crabgrass requires an entirely different control than dandelions.
Pre-emergent, I blieve atrazine. Not enviro-friendly. Must be applied
at the right time - timing very critical. Ck. with your area extension
service. Fertilizing and watering the good stuff helps keep it down,
but the dry spells in many areas this summer were beastly.

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 18:56:05 -0400, "john246"
wrote:

Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..I live in Northeast PA and
treated
my lawn in the spring for crabgrass & weeds (dandelion etc,)..we have had
a
very dry summer and since I didn't cut my grass (nothing was growing the
lawn turned brown) crabgrass took over,,2 yrs ago I had a company do
everything & the lawn looked great but it was getting to costly so I did
it
myself..What can I do to stop the crabgrass & prevent the spread of
it..CAn
I do anything in the FALL or do I have to wait until SPRING...please
HELP!!!!.



Try watering your lawn.


That has been restricted for many of us in PA due to the drought.

"Phisherman" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 18:56:05 -0400, "john246"
wrote:

Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..I live in Northeast PA and
treated
my lawn in the spring for crabgrass & weeds (dandelion etc,)..we have had
a
very dry summer and since I didn't cut my grass (nothing was growing the
lawn turned brown) crabgrass took over,,2 yrs ago I had a company do
everything & the lawn looked great but it was getting to costly so I did
it
myself..What can I do to stop the crabgrass & prevent the spread of
it..CAn
I do anything in the FALL or do I have to wait until SPRING...please
HELP!!!!.



The crabgrass will die at the first frost. What you need to do now is
to heavily overseed your lawn and apply a time-release STARTER
fertilizer. Remove any dead grass from your lawn before overseeding
and mow to the lowest setting the day of the overseeding. You may
need to protect areas with straw. Keep watered for 2 weeks. Next
spring apply pre-emergence and apply again after 90 days. Overseed
again in fall 2008. Crabgrass seeds can remain dormant for over 15
years, but it has hard time sprouting in a thick lawn. Buy the
highest quality weedless seed you can find.


Are you recommending the use of broadcast seeding by hand or is it necessary
to rent a seed drill?

"john246" wrote in message
news:reOdnVjZLMOd53nbnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@metrocastcab levision.com...
Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..I live in Northeast PA and
treated my lawn in the spring for crabgrass & weeds (dandelion etc,)..we
have had a very dry summer and since I didn't cut my grass (nothing was
growing the lawn turned brown) crabgrass took over,,2 yrs ago I had a
company do everything & the lawn looked great but it was getting to costly
so I did it myself..What can I do to stop the crabgrass & prevent the
spread of it..CAn I do anything in the FALL or do I have to wait until
SPRING...please HELP!!!!.

A tip that was given to me by an old farmer is to use weed and feed
fertilizers that have amine bases. This is in the % analysis on the label.
I don't recall the other chemical base, but the one you want has .....amine
on the end. One soaks into the leaves, and one makes a gas. The amine is
the best one. As someone here also said, a preemergent is good, but the
timing is critical. With the weed and feed varieties, the drawback is that
you have to time the watering, cutting, and application in a fine ballet so
that it works, and it doesn't work in one treatment. Because you are
fertilizing at the same time, you can't apply it every few days or you will
burn it with fertilizer, and that is about as bad as just applying a
nonselective herbicide to the whole thing and starting all over.

Next time, get yer head out in the sunshine and deal with it before you're
knee deep in the stuff.

Steve

On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 22:21:40 -0400, "C & E"
wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 18:56:05 -0400, "john246"
wrote:

Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..I live in Northeast PA and
treated
my lawn in the spring for crabgrass & weeds (dandelion etc,)..we have had
a
very dry summer and since I didn't cut my grass (nothing was growing the
lawn turned brown) crabgrass took over,,2 yrs ago I had a company do
everything & the lawn looked great but it was getting to costly so I did
it
myself..What can I do to stop the crabgrass & prevent the spread of
it..CAn
I do anything in the FALL or do I have to wait until SPRING...please
HELP!!!!.



Try watering your lawn.


That has been restricted for many of us in PA due to the drought.

Then you'll get drought tolerant grasses.

clipped


Try watering your lawn.


That has been restricted for many of us in PA due to the drought.


Then you'll get drought tolerant grasses.

If mown too short, you get brown, dead grass. During drought my son
just let the grass grow. It was quite long, but green with no watering
while his neighbor's short stubble turned brown. The weed and feed
stuff is horrible - you don't need broadleaf weed-killer applications
every time you fertilize. One treatment with broadleaf, then periodic
spot treatment or hand pulling of weeds should suffice. Seeds remain
after treatment, and arrive later, but if consistent good practices are
used you will control weeds without constant chem. applications.
Pulling one weed by hand might remove several hundred seeds.

On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 22:22:46 -0400, "C & E"
wrote:


"Phisherman" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 18:56:05 -0400, "john246"
wrote:

Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..I live in Northeast PA and
treated
my lawn in the spring for crabgrass & weeds (dandelion etc,)..we have had
a
very dry summer and since I didn't cut my grass (nothing was growing the
lawn turned brown) crabgrass took over,,2 yrs ago I had a company do
everything & the lawn looked great but it was getting to costly so I did
it
myself..What can I do to stop the crabgrass & prevent the spread of
it..CAn
I do anything in the FALL or do I have to wait until SPRING...please
HELP!!!!.



The crabgrass will die at the first frost. What you need to do now is
to heavily overseed your lawn and apply a time-release STARTER
fertilizer. Remove any dead grass from your lawn before overseeding
and mow to the lowest setting the day of the overseeding. You may
need to protect areas with straw. Keep watered for 2 weeks. Next
spring apply pre-emergence and apply again after 90 days. Overseed
again in fall 2008. Crabgrass seeds can remain dormant for over 15
years, but it has hard time sprouting in a thick lawn. Buy the
highest quality weedless seed you can find.


Are you recommending the use of broadcast seeding by hand or is it necessary
to rent a seed drill?


If there is a layer of thatch either remove that or rent a slit
seeder. The seed must be in direct contact with the ground, else it
won't sprout. If you use a broadcast spreader, rake the seed into the
grass. In PA you really need to get this done ASAP.

"john246" wrote in message
news:reOdnVjZLMOd53nbnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@metrocastcab levision.com...
Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..I live in Northeast PA and
treated my lawn in the spring for crabgrass & weeds (dandelion etc,)..we
have had a very dry summer and since I didn't cut my grass (nothing was
growing the lawn turned brown) crabgrass took over,,2 yrs ago I had a
company do everything & the lawn looked great but it was getting to costly
so I did it myself..What can I do to stop the crabgrass & prevent the
spread of it..CAn I do anything in the FALL or do I have to wait until
SPRING...please HELP!!!!.
Have you thought of crabgrass killer? I am too lazy to go out back and
check the bottle, but it is 4 letters starting with a M; not MSDS, but
something like that.
Works well and doesn't hurt the real grass. Put is on now, so hopefully you
can get some grass seed down soon.

Crabgrass takes over a little strip at the road every few years, but this
stuff does the trick.

On Sep 9, 11:52 pm, "SteveB" wrote:
"john246" wrote in message

news:reOdnVjZLMOd53nbnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@metrocastcab levision.com...

Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..I live in Northeast PA and
treated my lawn in the spring for crabgrass & weeds (dandelion etc,)..we
have had a very dry summer and since I didn't cut my grass (nothing was
growing the lawn turned brown) crabgrass took over,,2 yrs ago I had a
company do everything & the lawn looked great but it was getting to costly
so I did it myself..What can I do to stop the crabgrass & prevent the
spread of it..CAn I do anything in the FALL or do I have to wait until
SPRING...please HELP!!!!.

A tip that was given to me by an old farmer is to use weed and feed
fertilizers that have amine bases. This is in the % analysis on the label.
I don't recall the other chemical base, but the one you want has .....amine
on the end. One soaks into the leaves, and one makes a gas. The amine is
the best one.

Total nonsense. Weed and feed will do absolutely zippo to solve his
crabgrass problem, because these are only effective against broadleaf
weeds. Crabgrass is not a broadleaf weed.



As someone here also said, a preemergent is good, but the
timing is critical.

Not only is it good, it's be easiest and most effective way of dealing
with crabgrass.


With the weed and feed varieties, the drawback is that
you have to time the watering, cutting, and application in a fine ballet so
that it works, and it doesn't work in one treatment. Because you are
fertilizing at the same time, you can't apply it every few days or you will
burn it with fertilizer, and that is about as bad as just applying a
nonselective herbicide to the whole thing and starting all over.

You can't apply any herbicide every few days, whether it's a weed and
feed product or not. And again weed and feed will not kill
crabgrass. But the fertilizer in it will surely help it grow.



Next time, get yer head out in the sunshine and deal with it before you're
knee deep in the stuff.

Steve


Given how late it is in the season, the best thing to do is just wait
for it to die, which it will do by late next month. As someone else
advised, if the grass has been heavily damaged and is sparse, then you
should overseed, using a slice seeder to cut into what's there. If
you need to seed, I'd wait till end of Sept, to time the seed
germination with the approaching end of the crabgrass.

On Sep 10, 6:36 am, Norminn wrote:
clipped

Try watering your lawn.

That has been restricted for many of us in PA due to the drought.

Then you'll get drought tolerant grasses.

If mown too short, you get brown, dead grass. During drought my son
just let the grass grow. It was quite long, but green with no watering
while his neighbor's short stubble turned brown. The weed and feed
stuff is horrible - you don't need broadleaf weed-killer applications
every time you fertilize.

Agreed. Once a lawn is in decent shape, it should never need weed n
feed. Spot treatment of weeds is more effective because it delivers
the herbicide right on target and it minimizes the use instead of
spewing it everywhere.



One treatment with broadleaf, then periodic
spot treatment or hand pulling of weeds should suffice. Seeds remain
after treatment, and arrive later, but if consistent good practices are
used you will control weeds without constant chem. applications.
Pulling one weed by hand might remove several hundred seeds.


Treatments for broadleaf weeds will do nothing to solve his crabgrass
problem, because crabgrass is not a broadleaf weed.

On Sep 10, 7:18 am, Phisherman wrote:
On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 22:22:46 -0400, "C & E"
wrote:







"Phisherman" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 18:56:05 -0400, "john246"
wrote:

Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..I live in Northeast PA and
treated
my lawn in the spring for crabgrass & weeds (dandelion etc,)..we have had
a
very dry summer and since I didn't cut my grass (nothing was growing the
lawn turned brown) crabgrass took over,,2 yrs ago I had a company do
everything & the lawn looked great but it was getting to costly so I did
it
myself..What can I do to stop the crabgrass & prevent the spread of
it..CAn
I do anything in the FALL or do I have to wait until SPRING...please
HELP!!!!.

The crabgrass will die at the first frost. What you need to do now is
to heavily overseed your lawn and apply a time-release STARTER
fertilizer. Remove any dead grass from your lawn before overseeding
and mow to the lowest setting the day of the overseeding. You may
need to protect areas with straw. Keep watered for 2 weeks. Next
spring apply pre-emergence and apply again after 90 days. Overseed
again in fall 2008. Crabgrass seeds can remain dormant for over 15
years, but it has hard time sprouting in a thick lawn. Buy the
highest quality weedless seed you can find.

Are you recommending the use of broadcast seeding by hand or is it necessary
to rent a seed drill?

If there is a layer of thatch either remove that or rent a slit
seeder.

If he has a thatch problem, that should be solved without regard to
reseeding. A slice seeder is always the best way to re-seed,
without regard to thatch, because that does give the best seed/soil
contact. And it's fast and easy.



The seed must be in direct contact with the ground, else it
won't sprout. If you use a broadcast spreader, rake the seed into the
grass. In PA you really need to get this done ASAP.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'd do it now if he didn't have the crabgrass. But given a severe
crabgrass problem, I'd wait a couple weeks, till late sept or first
week in Oct, so the crabgrass is dying off as the new grass is
establishing.

On Sep 10, 9:07 am, "Toller" wrote:
"john246" wrote in message

news:reOdnVjZLMOd53nbnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@metrocastcab levision.com... Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..I live in Northeast PA and
treated my lawn in the spring for crabgrass & weeds (dandelion etc,)..we
have had a very dry summer and since I didn't cut my grass (nothing was
growing the lawn turned brown) crabgrass took over,,2 yrs ago I had a
company do everything & the lawn looked great but it was getting to costly
so I did it myself..What can I do to stop the crabgrass & prevent the
spread of it..CAn I do anything in the FALL or do I have to wait until
SPRING...please HELP!!!!.

Have you thought of crabgrass killer? I am too lazy to go out back and
check the bottle, but it is 4 letters starting with a M; not MSDS, but
something like that.
Works well and doesn't hurt the real grass. Put is on now, so hopefully you
can get some grass seed down soon.

Crabgrass takes over a little strip at the road every few years, but this
stuff does the trick.

Crabgrass killers are most effective when applied when the plants are
still small. At this stage, it will take multiple applications.
And I've never had much success with the typical post-emergence
crabgrass products you find at the home or garden center. They
typical take several applications to work, even on modest plants, and
damage the turf in the process.

Acclaim is very effective and does not damage the turf. However, it
is relatively expensive. If it was July or early Aug, I'd say use
it. But given how late in the season it is, I would just let it die
off naturally.

wrote:
On Sep 10, 9:07 am, "Toller" wrote:
"john246" wrote in message

news:reOdnVjZLMOd53nbnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@metrocastcab levision.com... Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..I live in Northeast PA and
treated my lawn in the spring for crabgrass & weeds (dandelion etc,)..we
have had a very dry summer and since I didn't cut my grass (nothing was
growing the lawn turned brown) crabgrass took over,,2 yrs ago I had a
company do everything & the lawn looked great but it was getting to costly
so I did it myself..What can I do to stop the crabgrass & prevent the
spread of it..CAn I do anything in the FALL or do I have to wait until
SPRING...please HELP!!!!.
Have you thought of crabgrass killer? I am too lazy to go out back and
check the bottle, but it is 4 letters starting with a M; not MSDS, but
something like that.
Works well and doesn't hurt the real grass. Put is on now, so hopefully you
can get some grass seed down soon.

Crabgrass takes over a little strip at the road every few years, but this
stuff does the trick.

Crabgrass killers are most effective when applied when the plants are
still small. At this stage, it will take multiple applications.
And I've never had much success with the typical post-emergence
crabgrass products you find at the home or garden center. They
typical take several applications to work, even on modest plants, and
damage the turf in the process.

Acclaim is very effective and does not damage the turf. However, it
is relatively expensive. If it was July or early Aug, I'd say use
it. But given how late in the season it is, I would just let it die
off naturally.

Agree...best bet would be to mow short and regularly the infested area
using a bagger and dispose of the clippings to minimize seed production
for next year, then go to the preemergent in the spring...

--

wrote in message
oups.com...
On Sep 10, 9:07 am, "Toller" wrote:
"john246" wrote in message

news:reOdnVjZLMOd53nbnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@metrocastcab levision.com...
Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..I live in Northeast PA and
treated my lawn in the spring for crabgrass & weeds (dandelion
etc,)..we
have had a very dry summer and since I didn't cut my grass (nothing
was
growing the lawn turned brown) crabgrass took over,,2 yrs ago I had a
company do everything & the lawn looked great but it was getting to
costly
so I did it myself..What can I do to stop the crabgrass & prevent the
spread of it..CAn I do anything in the FALL or do I have to wait until
SPRING...please HELP!!!!.

Have you thought of crabgrass killer? I am too lazy to go out back and
check the bottle, but it is 4 letters starting with a M; not MSDS, but
something like that.
Works well and doesn't hurt the real grass. Put is on now, so hopefully
you
can get some grass seed down soon.

Crabgrass takes over a little strip at the road every few years, but this
stuff does the trick.

Crabgrass killers are most effective when applied when the plants are
still small. At this stage, it will take multiple applications.
And I've never had much success with the typical post-emergence
crabgrass products you find at the home or garden center. They
typical take several applications to work, even on modest plants, and
damage the turf in the process.

Then I must be hallucinating. But as long as I think it worked well, that
is good enough for me!

wrote:
On Sep 10, 9:07 am, "Toller" wrote:
"john246" wrote in message

news:reOdnVjZLMOd53nbnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@metrocastcab levision.com... Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..I live in Northeast PA and
treated my lawn in the spring for crabgrass & weeds (dandelion etc,)..we
have had a very dry summer and since I didn't cut my grass (nothing was
growing the lawn turned brown) crabgrass took over,,2 yrs ago I had a
company do everything & the lawn looked great but it was getting to costly
so I did it myself..What can I do to stop the crabgrass & prevent the
spread of it..CAn I do anything in the FALL or do I have to wait until
SPRING...please HELP!!!!.
Have you thought of crabgrass killer? I am too lazy to go out back and
check the bottle, but it is 4 letters starting with a M; not MSDS, but
something like that.
Works well and doesn't hurt the real grass. Put is on now, so hopefully you
can get some grass seed down soon.

Crabgrass takes over a little strip at the road every few years, but this
stuff does the trick.

Crabgrass killers are most effective when applied when the plants are
still small. At this stage, it will take multiple applications.
And I've never had much success with the typical post-emergence
crabgrass products you find at the home or garden center. They
typical take several applications to work, even on modest plants, and
damage the turf in the process.

Acclaim is very effective and does not damage the turf. However, it
is relatively expensive. If it was July or early Aug, I'd say use
it. But given how late in the season it is, I would just let it die
off naturally.

Another approach that's cheaper than the granular preemergents if have
access to it (may take knowing somebody w/ an applicator's license or a
farmer depending on your locale) is a _very_ early spring application of
Atrazine -- it is a pre-emergent as well and will stop almost all early
annual germinating. For bluegrass turf, etc., it will be ok if used
very early (like February before it comes out of dormancy).

--

john246 wrote:
Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..

I bought, but haven't applied yet, something by Bayer that's supposed to
kill weeds and crabgrass.
http://www.bayeradvanced.com/product...bgrass-Killer/

--
If you really believe carbon dioxide causes global warming,
you should stop exhaling.

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 22:21:40 -0400, "C & E"
wrote:


wrote in message
. ..
On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 18:56:05 -0400, "john246"
wrote:

snip


Try watering your lawn.


That has been restricted for many of us in PA due to the drought.

Then you'll get drought tolerant grasses.


Not at all trying to be a wisea** here tnom, but are you saying that what
survives will be the drought tolerant grasses? If you have an inside line
on this I'd be interested so that I can seed those bare areas with it. Of
course, I could always Google that for some more info.
TIA,
Chuck

"Phisherman" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 22:22:46 -0400, "C & E"
wrote:


"Phisherman" wrote in message
. ..
On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 18:56:05 -0400, "john246"
wrote:

Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..I live in Northeast PA and
treated
my lawn in the spring for crabgrass & weeds (dandelion etc,)..we have
had
a
very dry summer and since I didn't cut my grass (nothing was growing
the
lawn turned brown) crabgrass took over,,2 yrs ago I had a company do
everything & the lawn looked great but it was getting to costly so I did
it
myself..What can I do to stop the crabgrass & prevent the spread of
it..CAn
I do anything in the FALL or do I have to wait until SPRING...please
HELP!!!!.



The crabgrass will die at the first frost. What you need to do now is
to heavily overseed your lawn and apply a time-release STARTER
fertilizer. Remove any dead grass from your lawn before overseeding
and mow to the lowest setting the day of the overseeding. You may
need to protect areas with straw. Keep watered for 2 weeks. Next
spring apply pre-emergence and apply again after 90 days. Overseed
again in fall 2008. Crabgrass seeds can remain dormant for over 15
years, but it has hard time sprouting in a thick lawn. Buy the
highest quality weedless seed you can find.


Are you recommending the use of broadcast seeding by hand or is it
necessary
to rent a seed drill?


If there is a layer of thatch either remove that or rent a slit
seeder. The seed must be in direct contact with the ground, else it
won't sprout. If you use a broadcast spreader, rake the seed into the
grass. In PA you really need to get this done ASAP.


Do you know the best seed rate on overseeding? ( Pounds per sq yd) Thanks
for the help!

C & E wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 22:21:40 -0400, "C & E"
wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 18:56:05 -0400, "john246"
wrote:

snip

Try watering your lawn.

That has been restricted for many of us in PA due to the drought.
Then you'll get drought tolerant grasses.


Not at all trying to be a wisea** here tnom, but are you saying that what
survives will be the drought tolerant grasses? ...

Well, pretty much by definition...

There are many levels of "drought tolerant". Some of the newer hybrid
fescues and bluegrasses are less water-demanding than older traditional
varieties. For really drought-resistant varieties there are things like
buffalo grass. What would be appropriate in wherever you are is
depending on where you are (DOH! ) and soil types, etc. Your local
county extension agent or state agricultural school is probably the best
starting place for local recommendations.

--

On Sep 10, 8:07 pm, "C & E" wrote:
wrote in message

...





On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 22:21:40 -0400, "C & E"
wrote:

wrote in message
. ..
On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 18:56:05 -0400, "john246"
wrote:

snip

Try watering your lawn.

That has been restricted for many of us in PA due to the drought.

Then you'll get drought tolerant grasses.

Not at all trying to be a wisea** here tnom, but are you saying that what
survives will be the drought tolerant grasses? If you have an inside line
on this I'd be interested so that I can seed those bare areas with it. Of
course, I could always Google that for some more info.
TIA,
Chuck- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

There are individual varieties or blends that are composed of varities
that are more drought tolerant. Check websites of individual
suppliers. I think Lofts has a summer stress blend. Or check
seedland.com for different grass seeds and characteristics.

On Sep 10, 8:10 pm, "C & E" wrote:
"Phisherman" wrote in message

...





On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 22:22:46 -0400, "C & E"
wrote:

"Phisherman" wrote in message
. ..
On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 18:56:05 -0400, "john246"
wrote:

Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..I live in Northeast PA and
treated
my lawn in the spring for crabgrass & weeds (dandelion etc,)..we have
had
a
very dry summer and since I didn't cut my grass (nothing was growing
the
lawn turned brown) crabgrass took over,,2 yrs ago I had a company do
everything & the lawn looked great but it was getting to costly so I did
it
myself..What can I do to stop the crabgrass & prevent the spread of
it..CAn
I do anything in the FALL or do I have to wait until SPRING...please
HELP!!!!.

The crabgrass will die at the first frost. What you need to do now is
to heavily overseed your lawn and apply a time-release STARTER
fertilizer. Remove any dead grass from your lawn before overseeding
and mow to the lowest setting the day of the overseeding. You may
need to protect areas with straw. Keep watered for 2 weeks. Next
spring apply pre-emergence and apply again after 90 days. Overseed
again in fall 2008. Crabgrass seeds can remain dormant for over 15
years, but it has hard time sprouting in a thick lawn. Buy the
highest quality weedless seed you can find.

Are you recommending the use of broadcast seeding by hand or is it
necessary
to rent a seed drill?

If there is a layer of thatch either remove that or rent a slit
seeder. The seed must be in direct contact with the ground, else it
won't sprout. If you use a broadcast spreader, rake the seed into the
grass. In PA you really need to get this done ASAP.

Do you know the best seed rate on overseeding? ( Pounds per sq yd) Thanks
for the help!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Depends entirely on the type of seed. For example, bluegrass goes
down at a much lower rate than tall fescue, because the seeds are
smaller. The rate for overseeding is about 1/2 the rate for
establishing a new lawn.

On Mon, 10 Sep 2007 20:10:58 -0400, "C & E"
wrote:


"Phisherman" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 22:22:46 -0400, "C & E"
wrote:


"Phisherman" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 18:56:05 -0400, "john246"
wrote:

Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..I live in Northeast PA and
treated
my lawn in the spring for crabgrass & weeds (dandelion etc,)..we have
had
a
very dry summer and since I didn't cut my grass (nothing was growing
the
lawn turned brown) crabgrass took over,,2 yrs ago I had a company do
everything & the lawn looked great but it was getting to costly so I did
it
myself..What can I do to stop the crabgrass & prevent the spread of
it..CAn
I do anything in the FALL or do I have to wait until SPRING...please
HELP!!!!.



The crabgrass will die at the first frost. What you need to do now is
to heavily overseed your lawn and apply a time-release STARTER
fertilizer. Remove any dead grass from your lawn before overseeding
and mow to the lowest setting the day of the overseeding. You may
need to protect areas with straw. Keep watered for 2 weeks. Next
spring apply pre-emergence and apply again after 90 days. Overseed
again in fall 2008. Crabgrass seeds can remain dormant for over 15
years, but it has hard time sprouting in a thick lawn. Buy the
highest quality weedless seed you can find.


Are you recommending the use of broadcast seeding by hand or is it
necessary
to rent a seed drill?


If there is a layer of thatch either remove that or rent a slit
seeder. The seed must be in direct contact with the ground, else it
won't sprout. If you use a broadcast spreader, rake the seed into the
grass. In PA you really need to get this done ASAP.


Do you know the best seed rate on overseeding? ( Pounds per sq yd) Thanks
for the help!



I can tell from the appearance of the lawn. Crabgrass likes barren
soil, so I suspect a heavy overseeding is recommended. A 50# bag for
a half or a quarter acre is about right (you can do the math).
Actually, it's hard to over do it.

On Mon, 10 Sep 2007 14:56:57 -0500, clifto wrote:

john246 wrote:
Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..

I bought, but haven't applied yet, something by Bayer that's supposed to
kill weeds and crabgrass.
http://www.bayeradvanced.com/product...bgrass-Killer/


This is not a good time to apply herbicides. Overseed your lawn now
to reduce weeds/crabgrass next year. Do not use herbicides within 90
days of seeding.

On Sep 11, 6:18 am, Phisherman wrote:
On Mon, 10 Sep 2007 20:10:58 -0400, "C & E"
wrote:







"Phisherman" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 22:22:46 -0400, "C & E"
wrote:

"Phisherman" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 18:56:05 -0400, "john246"
wrote:

Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..I live in Northeast PA and
treated
my lawn in the spring for crabgrass & weeds (dandelion etc,)..we have
had
a
very dry summer and since I didn't cut my grass (nothing was growing
the
lawn turned brown) crabgrass took over,,2 yrs ago I had a company do
everything & the lawn looked great but it was getting to costly so I did
it
myself..What can I do to stop the crabgrass & prevent the spread of
it..CAn
I do anything in the FALL or do I have to wait until SPRING...please
HELP!!!!.

The crabgrass will die at the first frost. What you need to do now is
to heavily overseed your lawn and apply a time-release STARTER
fertilizer. Remove any dead grass from your lawn before overseeding
and mow to the lowest setting the day of the overseeding. You may
need to protect areas with straw. Keep watered for 2 weeks. Next
spring apply pre-emergence and apply again after 90 days. Overseed
again in fall 2008. Crabgrass seeds can remain dormant for over 15
years, but it has hard time sprouting in a thick lawn. Buy the
highest quality weedless seed you can find.

Are you recommending the use of broadcast seeding by hand or is it
necessary
to rent a seed drill?

If there is a layer of thatch either remove that or rent a slit
seeder. The seed must be in direct contact with the ground, else it
won't sprout. If you use a broadcast spreader, rake the seed into the
grass. In PA you really need to get this done ASAP.

Do you know the best seed rate on overseeding? ( Pounds per sq yd) Thanks
for the help!

I can tell from the appearance of the lawn. Crabgrass likes barren
soil, so I suspect a heavy overseeding is recommended. A 50# bag for
a half or a quarter acre is about right (you can do the math).
Actually, it's hard to over do it.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So, you'd put down 50# of bluegrass or 50# of tall fescue on the same
area? Ever read a seed bag?

On Sep 11, 6:28 am, Phisherman wrote:
On Mon, 10 Sep 2007 14:56:57 -0500, clifto wrote:
john246 wrote:
Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..

I bought, but haven't applied yet, something by Bayer that's supposed to
kill weeds and crabgrass.
http://www.bayeradvanced.com/product...ed-Crabgrass-K...

This is not a good time to apply herbicides. Overseed your lawn now
to reduce weeds/crabgrass next year. Do not use herbicides within 90
days of seeding.


In general, not true. There are many weeds that continue to grow all
fall even into winter and continue to make the lawn a mess and they
will still be there stronger than ever come Spring. Nothing wrong
with treating weeds now, it isn't even Fall yet. And while most
herbicides specify a min period until you can seed, it's typically
around 30 days or so, not 90. Most effective is to use spot
treatment, rather than a weed/feed type product.

wrote:
On Sep 11, 6:28 am, Phisherman wrote:
On Mon, 10 Sep 2007 14:56:57 -0500, clifto wrote:
john246 wrote:
Crabgrass has taken over most of my lawn..
I bought, but haven't applied yet, something by Bayer that's supposed to
kill weeds and crabgrass.
http://www.bayeradvanced.com/product...ed-Crabgrass-K...
This is not a good time to apply herbicides. Overseed your lawn now
to reduce weeds/crabgrass next year. Do not use herbicides within 90
days of seeding.


In general, not true. There are many weeds that continue to grow all
fall even into winter and continue to make the lawn a mess and they
will still be there stronger than ever come Spring. Nothing wrong
with treating weeds now, it isn't even Fall yet. And while most
herbicides specify a min period until you can seed, it's typically
around 30 days or so, not 90. Most effective is to use spot
treatment, rather than a weed/feed type product.

Very true...particularly the dandy-lions are good to work on right now
as they're in the process of taking up nutrients for the winter so
herbicide effectiveness is good (assuming they're not heavily
drought-stressed, they do need to be actively growing for best
effectiveness)....

--