I have approximately a 4,000 sqft loft and not sure what size AC/
Furnace Unit I will need. Just trying to get a general idea. I was
looking at the following and not sure if it will be able to handle the
size of the room.

Goodman Air Conditioner/Furnace Package Unit

GOODMAN
Model: GPG13360901AB

13 SEER (cooling)
Cooling capacity: 35,400 BTU
80% AFUE (heating)
208 / 230 Volts
60 Hz
1 Phase

"Deejay" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have approximately a 4,000 sqft loft and not sure what size AC/
Furnace Unit I will need. Just trying to get a general idea. I was
looking at the following and not sure if it will be able to handle the
size of the room.

Goodman Air Conditioner/Furnace Package Unit

GOODMAN
Model: GPG13360901AB

13 SEER (cooling)
Cooling capacity: 35,400 BTU
80% AFUE (heating)
208 / 230 Volts
60 Hz
1 Phase



In other discussions like this, people have said the Goodman equipment is
"contractor grade", which is the same comment I got from the people who
inspected my home before purchase. The vague definition is "sorta kinda good
enough, but look at other brands".

As far as the size, a competent contractor will survey the space and make a
recommendation based on more factors than just square footage. Another
factor would be the number and sizes of windows, for instance. You should
consult a contractor.

Deejay wrote:
I have approximately a 4,000 sqft loft and not sure what size AC/
Furnace Unit I will need. Just trying to get a general idea. I was
looking at the following and not sure if it will be able to handle the
size of the room.

Goodman Air Conditioner/Furnace Package Unit

GOODMAN
Model: GPG13360901AB

13 SEER (cooling)
Cooling capacity: 35,400 BTU
80% AFUE (heating)
208 / 230 Volts
60 Hz
1 Phase

Hi,
Why don't you get an extimate by a competent pro.
Up here, rule of thumb for cooling need is 1 ton(12,000BTU)
per 600 sqf. I am no expert but looks like you need bigger one.

Thanks for all the replies. I did have one guy come by and his
estimate was nuts, so I was trying to get a rough idea before I called
more. I think I will need bigger than the one I listed almost double
from what I have calculated.

On Jul 5, 10:24 am, ValveJob wrote:
On Thu, 05 Jul 2007 14:37:13 -0000, Deejay wrote:
I have approximately a 4,000 sqft loft and not sure what size AC/
Furnace Unit I will need. Just trying to get a general idea. I was
looking at the following and not sure if it will be able to handle the
size of the room.

Goodman Air Conditioner/Furnace Package Unit

GOODMAN
Model: GPG13360901AB

13 SEER (cooling)
Cooling capacity: 35,400 BTU
80% AFUE (heating)
208 / 230 Volts
60 Hz
1 Phase

My cousin is a roughneck and likes his home kept at 65 and he wants
it to reach that temp very quick, even in 110 degree weather.

The 'experts' measured the house and checked the insulation and then
told him that the manual whatever showed that he required a 2 ton
(24,000 btu) system.

He ended up with a free 5 ton (60,000 btu) system that has kept him
very happy. The 'expert' hvac guy was not very happy, though.

. - Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Have a HVAC contractor in your area come by your place and perform a heat load.

You really need to find the right size because if it's too small it will not cool properly and if it's too big it again will not cool properly.

Question is this a window unit? If it is you can go to a number of places to find the right size for window units and you will not have to have a heat load. They are generally for central air.

--
Moe Jones
HVAC Service Technician
Energy Equalizers Inc.
Houston, Texas
www.EnergyEqualizers.com
"Deejay" wrote in message ups.com...
I have approximately a 4,000 sqft loft and not sure what size AC/
Furnace Unit I will need. Just trying to get a general idea. I was
looking at the following and not sure if it will be able to handle the
size of the room.

Goodman Air Conditioner/Furnace Package Unit

GOODMAN
Model: GPG13360901AB

13 SEER (cooling)
Cooling capacity: 35,400 BTU
80% AFUE (heating)
208 / 230 Volts
60 Hz
1 Phase

I will see about geeting a heat load test. No this one is not a window
unit.

On Jul 5, 11:08 am, "Moe Jones" wrote:
Have a HVAC contractor in your area come by your place and perform a heat load.

You really need to find the right size because if it's too small it will not cool properly and if it's too big it again will not cool properly.

Question is this a window unit? If it is you can go to a number of places to find the right size for window units and you will not have to have a heat load. They are generally for central air.

--
Moe Jones
HVAC Service Technician
Energy Equalizers Inc.
Houston, Texaswww.EnergyEqualizers.com
"Deejay" wrote in oglegroups.com...
I have approximately a 4,000 sqft loft and not sure what size AC/
Furnace Unit I will need. Just trying to get a general idea. I was
looking at the following and not sure if it will be able to handle the
size of the room.

Goodman Air Conditioner/Furnace Package Unit

GOODMAN
Model: GPG13360901AB

13 SEER (cooling)
Cooling capacity: 35,400 BTU
80% AFUE (heating)
208 / 230 Volts
60 Hz
1 Phase

The 'experts' measured the house and checked the insulation and then
told him that the manual whatever showed that he required a 2 ton
(24,000 btu) system.

He ended up with a free 5 ton (60,000 btu) system that has kept him
very happy. The 'expert' hvac guy was not very happy, though.


That's great if you like that "cave clammy" feeling. It will be a cold
house that still has all the humidity since the oversized unit won't
run long enough to pull the humidity out. That may work fine in
Arizona but here in Florida it will make it "rain" in your house as
the humidity condenses on things..

I would have used a 3 ton if the "experts" said to use a 2 ton. Having lived
in Las Vegas for 15 years, I learned early on that too many "experts" and
contractors use the one ton per ~400 sq ft rule, and you end up with an a/c
unit too small to cool your house when the temp tops 115 (which is does for
weeks on end in July and August in Vegas). I replaced my 3 ton unit with a 4
ton unit, and I was in a/c heaven! However, Vegas is quite dry and quite
hot, so we don't need much dehumidifying action - we need extra cooling.

My office needs a 5000 btu a/c according to btu/sq foot charts. A 5000 btu
a/c runs and runs and runs during the peak of the day, it doesn't cool that
well. I now have a 6000 btu unit in the window sill The extra 20% is all it
takes to make the difference between sitting here sweating during the heat
of the day, and enjoying a nice cool office.

Anyone else care to comment on whether you go with the recommend size, or
upsize 20% or so? IANAE, and my limited experiences are certainly not
representative of a/c installs in general.

On Thu, 05 Jul 2007 16:16:42 -0000, Deejay wrote:

I will see about geeting a heat load test. No this one is not a window
unit.

On Jul 5, 11:08 am, "Moe Jones" wrote:
Have a HVAC contractor in your area come by your place and perform a heat load.

You really need to find the right size because if it's too small it will not cool properly and if it's too big it again will not cool properly.

Question is this a window unit? If it is you can go to a number of places to find the right size for window units and you will not have to have a heat load. They are generally for central air.

--
Moe Jones
HVAC Service Technician
Energy Equalizers Inc.
Houston, Texaswww.EnergyEqualizers.com
"Deejay" wrote in oglegroups.com...
I have approximately a 4,000 sqft loft and not sure what size AC/
Furnace Unit I will need. Just trying to get a general idea. I was
looking at the following and not sure if it will be able to handle the
size of the room.

Goodman Air Conditioner/Furnace Package Unit

GOODMAN
Model: GPG13360901AB

13 SEER (cooling)
Cooling capacity: 35,400 BTU
80% AFUE (heating)
208 / 230 Volts
60 Hz
1 Phase

I'm in the market for a new one too. Mine is 22 years old this
month. It's a trane and it keeps on running, but I supplement it with
wall units that are very high EER so I hardly ever fire it up.

But, I am not getting anything but a multi-speed compressor unit.

"Right sized 2-speed high SEER (15+) heat pump HVAC system with
variable speed blower. A 'right sized' system with a multi speed
compressor assures that the unit has a sufficient cycle time to both
provide desired comfort level and optimum dehumidification."

Pay more now and enjoy 10-20 years of comfort.

Ook wrote:
The 'experts' measured the house and checked the insulation and then
told him that the manual whatever showed that he required a 2 ton
(24,000 btu) system.

He ended up with a free 5 ton (60,000 btu) system that has kept him
very happy. The 'expert' hvac guy was not very happy, though.

That's great if you like that "cave clammy" feeling. It will be a cold
house that still has all the humidity since the oversized unit won't
run long enough to pull the humidity out. That may work fine in
Arizona but here in Florida it will make it "rain" in your house as
the humidity condenses on things..

I would have used a 3 ton if the "experts" said to use a 2 ton.

Why? A competent estimator performing a manual J calculation will give
the proper size to use.

Having lived
in Las Vegas for 15 years, I learned early on that too many "experts" and
contractors use the one ton per ~400 sq ft rule, and you end up with an a/c
unit too small to cool your house when the temp tops 115 (which is does for
weeks on end in July and August in Vegas). I replaced my 3 ton unit with a 4
ton unit, and I was in a/c heaven! However, Vegas is quite dry and quite
hot, so we don't need much dehumidifying action - we need extra cooling.

My office needs a 5000 btu a/c according to btu/sq foot charts. A 5000 btu
a/c runs and runs and runs during the peak of the day,

Unfortunately a BTU/square foot chart is only an extremely course guide
and isn't really accurate enough to properly select equipment.



it doesn't cool that
well. I now have a 6000 btu unit in the window sill The extra 20% is all it
takes to make the difference between sitting here sweating during the heat
of the day, and enjoying a nice cool office.

Anyone else care to comment on whether you go with the recommend size, or
upsize 20% or so? IANAE, and my limited experiences are certainly not
representative of a/c installs in general.


Comments inline.

"Deejay" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have approximately a 4,000 sqft loft and not sure what size AC/
Furnace Unit I will need. Just trying to get a general idea. I was
looking at the following and not sure if it will be able to handle the
size of the room.

Goodman Air Conditioner/Furnace Package Unit

GOODMAN
Model: GPG13360901AB

13 SEER (cooling)
Cooling capacity: 35,400 BTU
80% AFUE (heating)
208 / 230 Volts
60 Hz
1 Phase


Manual J to size the equipment.

Manual D to size the ducting.

Anything else is a pure guess.
Do it right, or do it twice!

"Deejay" wrote in message
ups.com...
Thanks for all the replies. I did have one guy come by and his
estimate was nuts, so I was trying to get a rough idea before I called
more. I think I will need bigger than the one I listed almost double
from what I have calculated.


I see the truth comes out.

You can have it done cheap or you can pay to have it done right the first
time.

I guaranty that you won't like the cheap price after you've had many
problems with a system that sacrifices your comfort!

Why? A competent estimator performing a manual J calculation will give the
proper size to use.

Because I've spent too many years living in houses with a/c units that were
sized according to the house size, and most of them ineadequate. When it hit
110+ outside, we sweltered inside because the a/c just couldn't handle the
load. I've had several of my units inspected by repairmen, and all of them
told me that the unit was working fine but just wasn't big enough for the
house. I had a 1200 sq ft house in Vegas, and a 3 ton a/c. It didn't cool
worth squat when the temp exceeded about 105. A contractor told me to
replace it with a 3 ton unit. I told him that the current 3 ton unit was
fine mechanically, but would not cool when it got too hot, and then he
suggested that because it's hotter in Vegas I might need a bigger unit.
Well, duh, why don't they do that in the first place? There is a big
difference between the size of the a/c unit need to cool a house in 90
degree humid weather, and 118 degree arid weather.

I wonder if the problem is that the contractors use the smallest unit they
can get away with, instead of one that will cool the house even when the
weather hits 118? IOW, a competent estimator would indeed give the right
size to use, but those that build houses like to cut costs when they can,
including using small a/c units?

Unfortunately a BTU/square foot chart is only an extremely course guide
and isn't really accurate enough to properly select equipment.

Agreed. A couple of computers, other electrical equipment, a souther
exposure, etc. can make big differences in the size of the a/c you need.

"Ook" Ook Don't send me any freakin' spam at zootal dot com delete the
Don't send me any freakin' spam wrote

Because I've spent too many years living in houses with a/c units that
were sized according to the house size, and most of them ineadequate. When
it hit 110+ outside, we sweltered inside because the a/c just couldn't
handle the load.
I wonder if the problem is that the contractors use the smallest unit they
can get away with, instead of one that will cool the house even when the
weather hits 118? IOW, a competent estimator would indeed give the right
size to use, but those that build houses like to cut costs when they can,
including using small a/c units?

Wonder no more. Builders use as cheap as they can get away with.

The manual J is a very good method of determining the size AC you need, but,
it is dependent on proper input. If you design for a 20 degree differential,
but want a 30 degree differential, it is not going to work.

What works for me so far, is not to live in a place where the temperature
reaches 118 degrees.

"Ook" Ook Don't send me any freakin' spam at zootal dot com delete the
Don't send me any freakin' spam wrote in message
...

Because I've spent too many years living in houses with a/c units that
were
sized according to the house size, and most of them ineadequate. When it
hit
110+ outside, we sweltered inside because the a/c just couldn't handle the
load. I've had several of my units inspected by repairmen, and all of them
told me that the unit was working fine but just wasn't big enough for the
house. I had a 1200 sq ft house in Vegas, and a 3 ton a/c. It didn't cool
worth squat when the temp exceeded about 105. A contractor told me to
replace it with a 3 ton unit. I told him that the current 3 ton unit was
fine mechanically, but would not cool when it got too hot, and then he
suggested that because it's hotter in Vegas I might need a bigger unit.
Well, duh, why don't they do that in the first place? There is a big
difference between the size of the a/c unit need to cool a house in 90
degree humid weather, and 118 degree arid weather.


That's the difference between a COMPETENT HVAC technician and a hack.

One knows that you sized the unit based on the "design temperature" for the
area in which it gets installed!

Ook wrote:
Why? A competent estimator performing a manual J calculation will give the
proper size to use.

Because I've spent too many years living in houses with a/c units that were
sized according to the house size, and most of them ineadequate. When it hit
110+ outside, we sweltered inside because the a/c just couldn't handle the
load. I've had several of my units inspected by repairmen, and all of them
told me that the unit was working fine but just wasn't big enough for the
house. I had a 1200 sq ft house in Vegas, and a 3 ton a/c. It didn't cool
worth squat when the temp exceeded about 105. A contractor told me to
replace it with a 3 ton unit. I told him that the current 3 ton unit was
fine mechanically, but would not cool when it got too hot, and then he
suggested that because it's hotter in Vegas I might need a bigger unit.
Well, duh, why don't they do that in the first place?

You just answered your own question. The calculations can't be correct
when the correct design conditions aren't used.

You get similar results in an area where heating is the predominant
issue. If the builder is trying to cheap out they use a higher outside
low temperature with the result being if there is a sustained cold snap
the inside design temperature cannot be reached.


There is a big
difference between the size of the a/c unit need to cool a house in 90
degree humid weather, and 118 degree arid weather.

Sure, and manual J accounts for that. But if the right conditions aren't
used then the calculations are useless.


I wonder if the problem is that the contractors use the smallest unit they
can get away with, instead of one that will cool the house even when the
weather hits 118? IOW, a competent estimator would indeed give the right
size to use, but those that build houses like to cut costs when they can,
including using small a/c units?

Unfortunately a BTU/square foot chart is only an extremely course guide
and isn't really accurate enough to properly select equipment.

Agreed. A couple of computers, other electrical equipment, a souther
exposure, etc. can make big differences in the size of the a/c you need.

The truth comes out give me a break. The guy gave me a very rough no
calculations estimate of 25 grand, so yeah I'm going to ask questions.
So don't jump to conclusions.

On Jul 5, 1:00 pm, kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
"Deejay" wrote in message

ups.com...

Thanks for all the replies. I did have one guy come by and his
estimate was nuts, so I was trying to get a rough idea before I called
more. I think I will need bigger than the one I listed almost double
from what I have calculated.

I see the truth comes out.

You can have it done cheap or you can pay to have it done right the first
time.

I guaranty that you won't like the cheap price after you've had many
problems with a system that sacrifices your comfort!

Supposed to be 116 here today. Wonder if it will make it.

Steve


Ahhh, Las Vegas, home sweet home. 116 this early in July? Niiicceee. I have
fond memories of painting the eaves of my house in early August when it was
118 outside. I had no choice, as the house was selling and I had to get it
done. I thought I was going to die up on that roof....

"Deejay" wrote in message
oups.com...
The truth comes out give me a break. The guy gave me a very rough no
calculations estimate of 25 grand, so yeah I'm going to ask questions.
So don't jump to conclusions.


4000 sq ft

He might be right on target. Get a couple more quotes and find out.

"Priority Sales" wrote in message
...

"Ook" Ook Don't send me any freakin' spam at zootal dot com delete the
Don't send me any freakin' spam wrote in message
...
Why? A competent estimator performing a manual J calculation will give
the proper size to use.

Because I've spent too many years living in houses with a/c units that
were sized according to the house size, and most of them ineadequate.
When
it hit 110+ outside, we sweltered inside because the a/c just couldn't
handle the load. I've had several of my units inspected by repairmen,
and
all of them told me that the unit was working fine but just wasn't big
enough for the house. I had a 1200 sq ft house in Vegas, and a 3 ton
a/c.
It didn't cool worth squat when the temp exceeded about 105. A
contractor
told me to replace it with a 3 ton unit. I told him that the current 3
ton
unit was fine mechanically, but would not cool when it got too hot, and
then he suggested that because it's hotter in Vegas I might need a
bigger
unit. Well, duh, why don't they do that in the first place? There is a
big
difference between the size of the a/c unit need to cool a house in 90
degree humid weather, and 118 degree arid weather.

I wonder if the problem is that the contractors use the smallest unit
they
can get away with, instead of one that will cool the house even when the
weather hits 118? IOW, a competent estimator would indeed give the right
size to use, but those that build houses like to cut costs when they
can,
including using small a/c units?

Unfortunately a BTU/square foot chart is only an extremely course guide
and isn't really accurate enough to properly select equipment.

Agreed. A couple of computers, other electrical equipment, a souther
exposure, etc. can make big differences in the size of the a/c you need.

Just another couple of pennies from a Las Vegan ......

I'm waiting as I type for a company to come install a compressor in one of
my vacation rentals. Seems like the morons renting it have been having
problems for a couple of weeks, "but the temperature was bearable." The
house has a five and a four ton unit. I can't say 100% sure that it
wouldn't have gone out anyway, so I can't charge them. Grrrrrrrrrrr.


And how old is the unit???


Anyway, I always heard that ......... go with a bigger unit, and then it
doesn't have to work as hard. I know that this, too, has its logical
limitations, as you would not want to put a ten ton unit where you need
three. But I do consider putting an extra ton on there to be a reasonable
thing to do.


Is the ducting adequite for the extra ton???


We're replacing this compressor with another five, as the house has nine
tons for 2800 sf. And yes, the units don't run that much of the time and
it
doesn't take long to cool it down. Plus, for a few months a year, two
swamp
coolers blow plenty of cool air.


Why did the compressor go???
I'd sure want to know why before I spent money on the replacement.

Is your ducting adequite for the 5-ton unit???

wrote in message
...
On Thu, 5 Jul 2007 09:42:04 -0700, "Ook" Ook Don't send me any
freakin' spam at zootal dot com delete the Don't send me any freakin'
spam wrote:


The 'experts' measured the house and checked the insulation and then
told him that the manual whatever showed that he required a 2 ton
(24,000 btu) system.

He ended up with a free 5 ton (60,000 btu) system that has kept him
very happy. The 'expert' hvac guy was not very happy, though.


That's great if you like that "cave clammy" feeling. It will be a cold
house that still has all the humidity since the oversized unit won't
run long enough to pull the humidity out. That may work fine in
Arizona but here in Florida it will make it "rain" in your house as
the humidity condenses on things..

I would have used a 3 ton if the "experts" said to use a 2 ton. Having
lived
in Las Vegas for 15 years, I learned early on that too many "experts" and
contractors use the one ton per ~400 sq ft rule, and you end up with an
a/c
unit too small to cool your house when the temp tops 115 (which is does
for
weeks on end in July and August in Vegas). I replaced my 3 ton unit with
a 4
ton unit, and I was in a/c heaven! However, Vegas is quite dry and quite
hot, so we don't need much dehumidifying action - we need extra cooling.

My office needs a 5000 btu a/c according to btu/sq foot charts. A 5000
btu
a/c runs and runs and runs during the peak of the day, it doesn't cool
that
well. I now have a 6000 btu unit in the window sill The extra 20% is all
it
takes to make the difference between sitting here sweating during the
heat
of the day, and enjoying a nice cool office.

Anyone else care to comment on whether you go with the recommend size, or
upsize 20% or so? IANAE, and my limited experiences are certainly not
representative of a/c installs in general.


I hear you partner. That is why I mentioned Az. The real answer to all
of these has to come from a good local contractor who has been around
long enough to know what works

Doesn't matter where the contractors from... there are competent ones and
hacks everywhere.
The competent ones know how to properly size, install and set-up HVAC
systems no matter where they're being installed.

On Thu, 05 Jul 2007 12:02:37 -0500, ValveJob wrote:



I'm in the market for a new one too. Mine is 22 years old this
month. It's a trane and it keeps on running, but I supplement it with
wall units that are very high EER so I hardly ever fire it up.

But, I am not getting anything but a multi-speed compressor unit.

"Right sized 2-speed high SEER (15+) heat pump HVAC system with
variable speed blower.

I knew they had variable speed blowers, but how is it possible to have
a 2-speed compressor?

A 'right sized' system with a multi speed
compressor assures that the unit has a sufficient cycle time to both
provide desired comfort level and optimum dehumidification."

Pay more now and enjoy 10-20 years of comfort.

"mm" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 05 Jul 2007 12:02:37 -0500, ValveJob wrote:



I'm in the market for a new one too. Mine is 22 years old this
month. It's a trane and it keeps on running, but I supplement it with
wall units that are very high EER so I hardly ever fire it up.

But, I am not getting anything but a multi-speed compressor unit.

"Right sized 2-speed high SEER (15+) heat pump HVAC system with
variable speed blower.

I knew they had variable speed blowers, but how is it possible to have
a 2-speed compressor?


The same way it's possible to have multi-speed motors.

"Ook" Ook Don't send me any freakin' spam at zootal dot com delete the
Don't send me any freakin' spam wrote in message
...

Supposed to be 116 here today. Wonder if it will make it.

Steve


Ahhh, Las Vegas, home sweet home. 116 this early in July? Niiicceee. I
have fond memories of painting the eaves of my house in early August when
it was 118 outside. I had no choice, as the house was selling and I had to
get it done. I thought I was going to die up on that roof....


On the good side, the paint dries so fast when you're painting the eaves, if
you drip some, it just bounces off the concrete.

We're 98% moved to Utah, and are just waiting for the houses here to sell.

I also have lots of fond memories of Las Vegas. Lately, it's just turned
into a crowded cesspool.

I liked it better when "The Boys" ran things.

Steve

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote

And how old is the unit???

18 years

Is the ducting adequite for the extra ton???

No going to increase the tonnage, just replace what's there. I was merely
stating that when initially putting in a unit, I would opt for slightly
oversized rather than marginal. Please reread following sentence.


We're replacing this compressor with another five,

Why did the compressor go???

The fan motor seized, and the renters just kept turning the thermostat down
instead of alerting me of a problem. Thus, the compressor ran 24/7 for two
weeks.

I'd sure want to know why before I spent money on the replacement.

Sometimes, **** just happens. Tekkie said it was 95% old age and 5% renter
stupidity.


Is your ducting adequite for the 5-ton unit???

Has been since the unit was originally installed.

Steve

wrote

If you don't need the whole house cool all the time 2 systems may be
your answer. Knock the bedrooms down at night and hit the "living"
part of the house harder during the day

It's the ONLY answer if the house is over 2200 sf.

Steve

On Thu, 05 Jul 2007 20:01:53 -0400, mm
wrote:

On Thu, 05 Jul 2007 12:02:37 -0500, ValveJob wrote:



I'm in the market for a new one too. Mine is 22 years old this
month. It's a trane and it keeps on running, but I supplement it with
wall units that are very high EER so I hardly ever fire it up.

But, I am not getting anything but a multi-speed compressor unit.

"Right sized 2-speed high SEER (15+) heat pump HVAC system with
variable speed blower.

I knew they had variable speed blowers, but how is it possible to have
a 2-speed compressor?

A 'right sized' system with a multi speed
compressor assures that the unit has a sufficient cycle time to both
provide desired comfort level and optimum dehumidification."

Pay more now and enjoy 10-20 years of comfort.

Some say they have dual compressors and others say they have dual
speeds for a single compressor.

They are quite popular but expensive so more new ones are coming out
all the time.

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in message
...

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote

And how old is the unit???

18 years


Why are you replacing a compressor in a 18 yr old unit?

Do you know that the life expectancy is 18-20 years?

Because the house is up for sale, and it's cheaper than what they want for a
whole new unit.

Sheesh.

What else do you want to know?

Steve

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote

And how old is the unit???

18 years


Why are you replacing a compressor in a 18 yr old unit?

Do you know that the life expectancy is 18-20 years?

"Ook" Ook Don't send me any freakin' spam at zootal dot com delete the
Don't send me any freakin' spam wrote in message
...
Ahhh, Las Vegas, home sweet home. 116 this early in July? Niiicceee. I
have fond memories of painting the eaves of my house in early August
when it was 118 outside. I had no choice, as the house was selling and I
had to get it done. I thought I was going to die up on that roof....


On the good side, the paint dries so fast when you're painting the eaves,
if you drip some, it just bounces off the concrete.

We're 98% moved to Utah, and are just waiting for the houses here to
sell.

I also have lots of fond memories of Las Vegas. Lately, it's just turned
into a crowded cesspool.

I liked it better when "The Boys" ran things.

Steve


I moved there in 1984, and left at the end of the year 2000. When I moved
there, there was no Green Valley, and US95 dead ended at the spaghetti
bowl. Lake Mead Drive (not to be confused with Lake Mead Blvd in NLV) went
from the old part of Henderson all the way to I-15 with only one traffic
light, and there was a couple of miles of empty desert along Boulder
Highway between Vegas and Henderson. There was also an empty mile or two
of Las Vegas Blvd at Nellis AFB. You could actually drive across the dam,
and the tours took you down the looong elevator to the bottom platform.
When I left, the road to Lake Mead had a toll station, the city was
complete from Vegas all they way along Boulder Highway to Henderson, and
Green Valley stretched from I-15 to Water Street, civilization stretched
all the way to the air base and beyond, traffic was insane, and it was
beginning to get very crowded. Real Estate had not yet exploded upwards,
and I sold my house for $99,500. Today that house is worth about $250,000.
I walked away $150,000 - all I had to do was stay there for five more
years cries.


I moved here in 1952 at age 4. Henderson (where we lived) had about 7,000
and Las Vegas about 40,000. Now they're pushing two million. Over the
years, I did well on some deals, careers, real estate and various gambles.
Did really well in silver before the Hunt brothers messed it up. Boy, did I
sell at the right time!

I've seen a lot and participated in history. I worked at the joints. I sat
and played blackjack with Elvis for 45 minutes one time. I played ping pong
with Pearl Bailey. Shecky Greene tried to choke me. I met lots of
celebrities and had elbow to elbow contact. Lots were nice folks, and some
were absolute jerks. It was a good ride.

But now, it's over, and I'm ready for a rural existence in Utah on my ranch
and at my cabin. Lots of fishing and hunting and ATV riding to be done.

Anyone want to buy two vacation rentals in Las Vegas? $950k.

Steve

Ahhh, Las Vegas, home sweet home. 116 this early in July? Niiicceee. I
have fond memories of painting the eaves of my house in early August when
it was 118 outside. I had no choice, as the house was selling and I had
to get it done. I thought I was going to die up on that roof....


On the good side, the paint dries so fast when you're painting the eaves,
if you drip some, it just bounces off the concrete.

We're 98% moved to Utah, and are just waiting for the houses here to sell.

I also have lots of fond memories of Las Vegas. Lately, it's just turned
into a crowded cesspool.

I liked it better when "The Boys" ran things.

Steve


I moved there in 1984, and left at the end of the year 2000. When I moved
there, there was no Green Valley, and US95 dead ended at the spaghetti bowl.
Lake Mead Drive (not to be confused with Lake Mead Blvd in NLV) went from
the old part of Henderson all the way to I-15 with only one traffic light,
and there was a couple of miles of empty desert along Boulder Highway
between Vegas and Henderson. There was also an empty mile or two of Las
Vegas Blvd at Nellis AFB. You could actually drive across the dam, and the
tours took you down the looong elevator to the bottom platform. When I left,
the road to Lake Mead had a toll station, the city was complete from Vegas
all they way along Boulder Highway to Henderson, and Green Valley stretched
from I-15 to Water Street, civilization stretched all the way to the air
base and beyond, traffic was insane, and it was beginning to get very
crowded. Real Estate had not yet exploded upwards, and I sold my house for
$99,500. Today that house is worth about $250,000. I walked away $150,000 -
all I had to do was stay there for five more years cries.

On Thu, 05 Jul 2007 14:37:13 -0000, Deejay wrote:

I have approximately a 4,000 sqft loft and not sure what size AC/
Furnace Unit I will need. Just trying to get a general idea. I was
looking at the following and not sure if it will be able to handle the
size of the room.
"Air Conditioning System Sizing for Optimal EER & SEER Efficiency"
http://www.udarrell.com/airconditioning-sizing.html

Bigger Is Not Better: Sizing Air Conditioners Properly
http://www.proctoreng.com/articles/bigger.html

HVAC-Calc, the easy to use Heat Loss and Heat Gain Calculator
http://www.hvaccomputer.com/gsizeindex.asp

Information courtesy of
Roy Starrin
National/International News Editor
www.VirginiaNewsSource.com

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in message
...

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote

And how old is the unit???

18 years


Why are you replacing a compressor in a 18 yr old unit?

Do you know that the life expectancy is 18-20 years?

Because the house is up for sale, and it's cheaper than what they want for
a
whole new unit.

Sheesh.

What else do you want to know?

Steve


You could have recovered the cost of a new system when you sold the home. As
the buyer would have saw a new unit, that they wouldn't have to replace. Now
all they see is an old POS that someone spent a LOT of money on for a
repair. To them, it's still something that they're going to have to replace.
It's a mind game and the game says you're likely to get your money back on a
new system first. It makes the home more appealing and that means more
money.

That's why!!! :-)

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in message
.. .

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote

And how old is the unit???

18 years


Why are you replacing a compressor in a 18 yr old unit?

Do you know that the life expectancy is 18-20 years?

Because the house is up for sale, and it's cheaper than what they want for

a

whole new unit.

Sheesh.

What else do you want to know?

Steve



You could have recovered the cost of a new system when you sold the home. As
the buyer would have saw a new unit, that they wouldn't have to replace. Now
all they see is an old POS that someone spent a LOT of money on for a
repair. To them, it's still something that they're going to have to replace.
It's a mind game and the game says you're likely to get your money back on a
new system first. It makes the home more appealing and that means more
money.

That's why!!! :-)



You will almost never be able to recover the cost of such improvements.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

CJT wrote:

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in message
...

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote

And how old is the unit???

18 years

Why are you replacing a compressor in a 18 yr old unit?

Do you know that the life expectancy is 18-20 years?

Because the house is up for sale, and it's cheaper than what they
want for a whole new unit.

Sheesh. What else do you want to know? Steve

You could have recovered the cost of a new system when you sold the
home. As
the buyer would have saw a new unit, that they wouldn't have to
replace. Now
all they see is an old POS that someone spent a LOT of money on for a
repair. To them, it's still something that they're going to have to
replace.
It's a mind game and the game says you're likely to get your money
back on a
new system first. It makes the home more appealing and that means more
money. That's why!!! :-)

You will almost never be able to recover the cost of such improvements.

It is really strange I have watched hundreds of homes being sold &
improved for sale & it is extremely rare to see or hear anything about
the central air conditioning & heating system. That is one of the most
important things to know about, yet you see or hear zip about them!
Learn a little about what you might be buying.

Heating & Air that is not operating properly can cost you a fortune, &
for a lot of reasons a high percentage of central ACs don't operate
efficiently!
http://www.udarrell.com/proper_cfm_b...syste ms.html

- udarrell

--
WISDOM PRINCIPLE DIRECTED EMPOWERMENT COMMUNICATIONS -
THE REAL POLITICAL ISSUES and WISDOM BASED PEOPLE EMPOWERMENT

http://www.udarrell.com/

http://www.udarrell.com/my_pages2.htm
(My Airconditioning Links, Hunting Shooting, Angus Cattle, etc.)

http://www.udarrell.com/principled_a...ju stice.html

http://www.udarrell.com/recognizing_real_enemies.html

http://jesuschristsavior.net/Beatitudes.html

http://www.antiwar.com/ ***

Reality Is Not An Easy Thing To Be Confronted With, or to Accept!

"CJT" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in message
.. .

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote

And how old is the unit???

18 years


Why are you replacing a compressor in a 18 yr old unit?

Do you know that the life expectancy is 18-20 years?

Because the house is up for sale, and it's cheaper than what they want
for

a

whole new unit.

Sheesh.

What else do you want to know?

Steve



You could have recovered the cost of a new system when you sold the
home. As
the buyer would have saw a new unit, that they wouldn't have to replace.
Now
all they see is an old POS that someone spent a LOT of money on for a
repair. To them, it's still something that they're going to have to
replace.
It's a mind game and the game says you're likely to get your money back
on a
new system first. It makes the home more appealing and that means more
money.

That's why!!! :-)



You will almost never be able to recover the cost of such improvements.


Bull****, it's all in the marketing.

In article ,
Priority Sales wrote:

....

Anyway, I always heard that ......... go with a bigger unit, and then it
doesn't have to work as hard. I know that this, too, has its logical
limitations, as you would not want to put a ten ton unit where you need
three. But I do consider putting an extra ton on there to be a reasonable
thing to do.

We're replacing this compressor with another five, as the house has nine
tons for 2800 sf. And yes, the units don't run that much of the time and it
doesn't take long to cool it down.

I like placing a large fan just in front of the A/C.

What advantages? Off the top of my head (or maybe they're out of my hat):

.. the a/c's own fan doesn't/can't shoot the air very
far away. With a fan, angled towards one side of the room,
maybe also up towards the ceiling, a bit, shoots
the cool air much farther into the room.

Plus, the angle starts the air cycling *around* the room.

.. Benefit of that: without extra fan, cold air bunches up near
the a/c. Thermostat, "thinking" that the whole room
is of that cold temperature, shuts off the a/c -- while
rest of room, ceiling, etc has likely seen NO cool air yet.

Thus a/c turns off way too soon, humidity stays in the air,
to say nothing of the heat not being sucked out the window.

Perhaps-useful mental model:

Consider an a/c that's so much too small that more heat
keeps coming in through the walls, windows, leaks, etc,
than the a/c takes out. Result: room keeps
getting hotter, until at some higher temperature equilibrium
is reached, and it shuts off.


David

David Combs wrote:

In article ,
Priority Sales wrote:


...


Anyway, I always heard that ......... go with a bigger unit, and then it
doesn't have to work as hard. I know that this, too, has its logical
limitations, as you would not want to put a ten ton unit where you need
three. But I do consider putting an extra ton on there to be a reasonable
thing to do.

We're replacing this compressor with another five, as the house has nine
tons for 2800 sf. And yes, the units don't run that much of the time and it
doesn't take long to cool it down.


I like placing a large fan just in front of the A/C.

What advantages? Off the top of my head (or maybe they're out of my hat):

. the a/c's own fan doesn't/can't shoot the air very
far away. With a fan, angled towards one side of the room,
maybe also up towards the ceiling, a bit, shoots
the cool air much farther into the room.

Plus, the angle starts the air cycling *around* the room.

. Benefit of that: without extra fan, cold air bunches up near
the a/c. Thermostat, "thinking" that the whole room
is of that cold temperature, shuts off the a/c -- while
rest of room, ceiling, etc has likely seen NO cool air yet.

Thus a/c turns off way too soon, humidity stays in the air,
to say nothing of the heat not being sucked out the window.

Perhaps-useful mental model:

Consider an a/c that's so much too small that more heat
keeps coming in through the walls, windows, leaks, etc,
than the a/c takes out. Result: room keeps
getting hotter, until at some higher temperature equilibrium
is reached, and it shuts off. David


If you are using a room AC or a mini-ductless AC by using 20" vertically
adjustable fans (Wind Machine 3300) you can cool a lot larger area.
I cool 3 rooms & a hallway in an older 1937 home that is over 850-sq.ft
with a Half-Ton mere 6,000-BTUH room AC in 104 Heat indexes.
http://www.udarrell.com/aircondition...harting.h tml


Somebody is really nuts to be using 9-Tons to cool a mere 2800-sq.ft home.
What would an accurate Manual J heat-gain calc call for, 2.5 to 3.5-Ton?
Without sufficient runtime, - as the sensible temperature drops the
percent of Relative Humidity rises causing a clammy mold spore producing
environment!

It appears he is using at least one 5-Ton & perhaps a 4-Ton.
Both require a lot of airflow to work properly, the 5-Ton airflow level
is not easy to achieve in a residential system.

http://www.udarrell.com/proper_cfm_b...syste ms.html

udarrell

--
WISDOM PRINCIPLE DIRECTED EMPOWERMENT COMMUNICATIONS -
THE REAL POLITICAL ISSUES and WISDOM BASED PEOPLE EMPOWERMENT

http://www.udarrell.com/

http://www.udarrell.com/my_pages2.htm
(My Airconditioning Links, Hunting Shooting, Angus Cattle, etc.)

http://www.udarrell.com/principled_a...ju stice.html

http://www.udarrell.com/recognizing_real_enemies.html

http://jesuschristsavior.net/Beatitudes.html

http://www.antiwar.com/ ***

Reality Is Not An Easy Thing To Be Confronted With, or to Accept!