I want to create a light box for my son's little league, with three
green lights for balls, two yellow lights for strikes and two red
lights for outs. Each light needs to be on a seperate switch, but the
whole shebang will be wired together. Can anyone give me advice on
how to wire these all together? Thanks!

The answer below is entirely correct and very nicely stated, but I will add
one additional step to respond to your specific request for the multiple
lights.....


When connecting "one switch and one light together" per the instructions
below, you actually need to connect the green switch's unused terminal to
the unused terminal on each of the 3 green lights, then connect the yellow
switch's unused terminal to the unused terminal on each of the 2 yellow
lights, and finally the last switch, red's unused terminal, to the unused
terminal on each of each of 2 red lights.

Hope this helps you.

Smarty



wrote in message
...
On Sun, 03 Jun 2007 18:25:23 -0700, wrote:

I want to create a light box for my son's little league, with three
green lights for balls, two yellow lights for strikes and two red
lights for outs. Each light needs to be on a seperate switch, but the
whole shebang will be wired together. Can anyone give me advice on
how to wire these all together? Thanks!


This is where I am supposed to tell you to hire an electrician before
you kill yourself, the whole team and all the spectators. ;-)

Wire one side of the battery to one side of all the switches, the
other side of the battery to one side of all the lights and then
connect one switch and one light together with the unused terminals.

On Sun, 3 Jun 2007 23:04:12 -0400, "Smarty" wrote:


When connecting "one switch and one light together" per the instructions
below, you actually need to connect the green switch's unused terminal to
the unused terminal on each of the 3 green lights, then connect the yellow
switch's unused terminal to the unused terminal on each of the 2 yellow
lights, and finally the last switch, red's unused terminal, to the unused
terminal on each of each of 2 red lights.

Boy that sounds awfully complicated.

Terry,

I agree entirely.

I drew up a schematic and emailed it to the original poster
). This is a lot easier to follow than a text
description of the wiring.

Smarty


"Terry" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 3 Jun 2007 23:04:12 -0400, "Smarty" wrote:


When connecting "one switch and one light together" per the instructions
below, you actually need to connect the green switch's unused terminal to
the unused terminal on each of the 3 green lights, then connect the yellow
switch's unused terminal to the unused terminal on each of the 2 yellow
lights, and finally the last switch, red's unused terminal, to the unused
terminal on each of each of 2 red lights.

Boy that sounds awfully complicated.

On Sun, 3 Jun 2007 23:04:12 -0400, "Smarty" wrote:

The answer below is entirely correct and very nicely stated, but I will add
one additional step to respond to your specific request for the multiple
lights.....


When connecting "one switch and one light together" per the instructions
below, you actually need to connect the green switch's unused terminal to
the unused terminal on each of the 3 green lights, then connect the yellow
switch's unused terminal to the unused terminal on each of the 2 yellow
lights, and finally the last switch, red's unused terminal, to the unused
terminal on each of each of 2 red lights.

Hope this helps you.

Smarty

Either you weren't clear or you've never played baseball.

Better: you actually need to connect [each] green switch's unused
terminal to the unused terminal on each of the 3 green lights, then
connect [each] yellow switch's unused terminal to the unused terminal
on each of the 2 yellow lights, and finally the last [set of]
switch[es], [each] red's unused terminal, to the unused terminal on
each of each of 2 red lights. One light per switch.

Maybe there would be some use for a master switch also, that would
turn them all off, but I can't think of one. Like during commericals
or disputes with the umpire, but the latter one doesn't seem like a
reason to turn the lights off..


wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 03 Jun 2007 18:25:23 -0700, wrote:

I want to create a light box for my son's little league, with three
green lights for balls, two yellow lights for strikes and two red
lights for outs. Each light needs to be on a seperate switch, but the
whole shebang will be wired together. Can anyone give me advice on
how to wire these all together? Thanks!


This is where I am supposed to tell you to hire an electrician before
you kill yourself, the whole team and all the spectators. ;-)

Wire one side of the battery to one side of all the switches, the
other side of the battery to one side of all the lights and then
connect one switch and one light together with the unused terminals.

mm,

Your wording is better than mine. I struggled with the best way to state the
details, and eventually drew up a schematic / wiring diagram and mailed it
directly to the original poster since his email address with publicly shown.
It is much simpler to follow the diagram than it is to describe it in words.

I am reminded of the challenge I was once given by an English teacher:

Describe in writing a helix without using either a drawing or your hands to
illustrate......

Smarty





"mm" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 3 Jun 2007 23:04:12 -0400, "Smarty" wrote:

The answer below is entirely correct and very nicely stated, but I will
add
one additional step to respond to your specific request for the multiple
lights.....


When connecting "one switch and one light together" per the instructions
below, you actually need to connect the green switch's unused terminal to
the unused terminal on each of the 3 green lights, then connect the yellow
switch's unused terminal to the unused terminal on each of the 2 yellow
lights, and finally the last switch, red's unused terminal, to the unused
terminal on each of each of 2 red lights.

Hope this helps you.

Smarty

Either you weren't clear or you've never played baseball.

Better: you actually need to connect [each] green switch's unused
terminal to the unused terminal on each of the 3 green lights, then
connect [each] yellow switch's unused terminal to the unused terminal
on each of the 2 yellow lights, and finally the last [set of]
switch[es], [each] red's unused terminal, to the unused terminal on
each of each of 2 red lights. One light per switch.

Maybe there would be some use for a master switch also, that would
turn them all off, but I can't think of one. Like during commericals
or disputes with the umpire, but the latter one doesn't seem like a
reason to turn the lights off..


wrote in message
. ..
On Sun, 03 Jun 2007 18:25:23 -0700, wrote:

I want to create a light box for my son's little league, with three
green lights for balls, two yellow lights for strikes and two red
lights for outs. Each light needs to be on a seperate switch, but the
whole shebang will be wired together. Can anyone give me advice on
how to wire these all together? Thanks!


This is where I am supposed to tell you to hire an electrician before
you kill yourself, the whole team and all the spectators. ;-)

Wire one side of the battery to one side of all the switches, the
other side of the battery to one side of all the lights and then
connect one switch and one light together with the unused terminals.

On Mon, 4 Jun 2007 01:24:21 -0400, "Smarty" wrote:

Your wording is better than mine. I struggled with the best way to state the
details, and eventually drew up a schematic / wiring diagram and mailed it
directly to the original poster since his email address with publicly shown.
It is much simpler to follow the diagram than it is to describe it in words.

You should upload the drawing to Tinypic.com. It will give you a link
to post here.

"Smarty" wrote in message
...
mm,

Your wording is better than mine. I struggled with the best way to state
the details, and eventually drew up a schematic / wiring diagram and
mailed it directly to the original poster since his email address with
publicly shown. It is much simpler to follow the diagram than it is to
describe it in words.

I am reminded of the challenge I was once given by an English teacher:

Describe in writing a helix without using either a drawing or your hands
to illustrate......

Smarty

We were challenged to describe a spiral staircase (similar to your helix)
and an accordian.

Charlie

On Mon, 4 Jun 2007 01:24:21 -0400, "Smarty" wrote:

mm,

Your wording is better than mine. I struggled with the best way to state the
details, and eventually drew up a schematic / wiring diagram and mailed it
directly to the original poster since his email address with publicly shown.
It is much simpler to follow the diagram than it is to describe it in words.

Definitely. We had a 5-minute assignment in high school English to
pick a machine and describe how it works. I think I used a can
opener. I felt so-so after I spoke my part.

The guy after me used a key cylinder, the innards of which I didn't
know. After he was done, I did know how it worked. And I felt pretty
humiliated by my crummy explantation, which I had to admit probably
didn't explain anything to anyone who hadn't already seen one.

I am reminded of the challenge I was once given by an English teacher:

Describe in writing a helix without using either a drawing or your hands to
illustrate......

That will probably take me years.

I'm glad you've played baseball.

Smarty





"mm" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 3 Jun 2007 23:04:12 -0400, "Smarty" wrote:

The answer below is entirely correct and very nicely stated, but I will
add
one additional step to respond to your specific request for the multiple
lights.....


When connecting "one switch and one light together" per the instructions
below, you actually need to connect the green switch's unused terminal to
the unused terminal on each of the 3 green lights, then connect the yellow
switch's unused terminal to the unused terminal on each of the 2 yellow
lights, and finally the last switch, red's unused terminal, to the unused
terminal on each of each of 2 red lights.

Hope this helps you.

Smarty

Either you weren't clear or you've never played baseball.

Better: you actually need to connect [each] green switch's unused
terminal to the unused terminal on each of the 3 green lights, then
connect [each] yellow switch's unused terminal to the unused terminal
on each of the 2 yellow lights, and finally the last [set of]
switch[es], [each] red's unused terminal, to the unused terminal on
each of each of 2 red lights. One light per switch.

Maybe there would be some use for a master switch also, that would
turn them all off, but I can't think of one. Like during commericals
or disputes with the umpire, but the latter one doesn't seem like a
reason to turn the lights off..


wrote in message
...
On Sun, 03 Jun 2007 18:25:23 -0700, wrote:

I want to create a light box for my son's little league, with three
green lights for balls, two yellow lights for strikes and two red
lights for outs. Each light needs to be on a seperate switch, but the
whole shebang will be wired together. Can anyone give me advice on
how to wire these all together? Thanks!


This is where I am supposed to tell you to hire an electrician before
you kill yourself, the whole team and all the spectators. ;-)

Wire one side of the battery to one side of all the switches, the
other side of the battery to one side of all the lights and then
connect one switch and one light together with the unused terminals.

On Mon, 4 Jun 2007 10:30:29 -0400, "Charlie Bress"
wrote:


"Smarty" wrote in message
m...
mm,

Your wording is better than mine. I struggled with the best way to state
the details, and eventually drew up a schematic / wiring diagram and
mailed it directly to the original poster since his email address with
publicly shown. It is much simpler to follow the diagram than it is to
describe it in words.

I am reminded of the challenge I was once given by an English teacher:

Describe in writing a helix without using either a drawing or your hands
to illustrate......

Smarty

We were challenged to describe a spiral staircase (similar to your helix)
and an accordian.

Are these English teachers in some big conspiracy to teach us
something?

The three R's are reading riting and rithmetic. Don't say nothin
about talking.

Charlie

Superb suggestion Terry!!! I never knew this existed. Here is the link to my
schematic:

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=4zu9gs1

It was drawn quickly with a simple drawing program so apologies if it looks
a bit amateur. I used to have schematic capture, SPICE, and other PCB layout
software running but not on this machine.

Smarty


"Terry" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 4 Jun 2007 01:24:21 -0400, "Smarty" wrote:

Your wording is better than mine. I struggled with the best way to state
the
details, and eventually drew up a schematic / wiring diagram and mailed it
directly to the original poster since his email address with publicly
shown.
It is much simpler to follow the diagram than it is to describe it in
words.

You should upload the drawing to Tinypic.com. It will give you a link
to post here.

Smarty wrote:
I agree Terry. I wish I could express it more succinctly. I drew up a
schematic and have attached it here as a .jpg file. This picture is
worth at least a few hundred words..... Hope it helps the original
poster and that he / she can download it.

Smarty



"Terry" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 3 Jun 2007 23:04:12 -0400, "Smarty"
wrote:

When connecting "one switch and one light together" per the
instructions below, you actually need to connect the green switch's
unused terminal to the unused terminal on each of the 3 green
lights, then connect the yellow switch's unused terminal to the
unused terminal on each of the 2 yellow lights, and finally the
last switch, red's unused terminal, to the unused terminal on each
of each of 2 red lights.
Boy that sounds awfully complicated.

Umm, don't you want a separate switch for EACH light? Your schematic turns
them all on at once.

Pop`

On Jun 4, 12:54 pm, "Smarty" wrote:
Superb suggestion Terry!!! I never knew this existed. Here is the link to my
schematic:

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=4zu9gs1

It was drawn quickly with a simple drawing program so apologies if it looks
a bit amateur. I used to have schematic capture, SPICE, and other PCB layout
software running but not on this machine.

Smarty

I still don't follow what you are using for switches. I would expect
someone to use single pole switches. Single pole switches don't have
any unused outputs.

What type switches are you suggesting?

I use a program called TinyCad. It is free and pretty easy to use.

http://i15.tinypic.com/4yzn59s.jpg

pop,

My circuit has 3 switches, each of which control one color. The yellow
switch, for example, turns on the yellow bulbs. Same for red and green. Not
sure what you mean by saying: "Your schematic turns them all on at once".

Smarty


"Pop`" wrote in message
news:WJX8i.1053$0x3.613@trnddc06...
Smarty wrote:
I agree Terry. I wish I could express it more succinctly. I drew up a
schematic and have attached it here as a .jpg file. This picture is
worth at least a few hundred words..... Hope it helps the original
poster and that he / she can download it.

Smarty



"Terry" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 3 Jun 2007 23:04:12 -0400, "Smarty"
wrote:

When connecting "one switch and one light together" per the
instructions below, you actually need to connect the green switch's
unused terminal to the unused terminal on each of the 3 green
lights, then connect the yellow switch's unused terminal to the
unused terminal on each of the 2 yellow lights, and finally the
last switch, red's unused terminal, to the unused terminal on each
of each of 2 red lights.
Boy that sounds awfully complicated.

Umm, don't you want a separate switch for EACH light? Your schematic
turns them all on at once.

Pop`

Terry,

Each of my 3 switches is a single pole single throw (SPST) switch with ***no
unused terminals". These switches (red, green, yellow) control the red,
green, and yellow bulbs. The bulbs have a common bus fed directly from the
power source on one of their 2 leads, and have switched power to their
remaining leads. The red bulbs, for example, are illuminated when the
corresponding switch is closed.

The common bus connecting all of the bulbs on one side to the power source
is at the extreme far right edge of the drawing, and appears to be nearly
clipped off when viewed on the web site. The uploaded picture shows the line
a bit more clearly, but perhaps it is harder for you to recognize it because
of the way the image gets a slight amount of cropping, JPEG compression, or
both.

Smarty

Smarty


"Terry" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jun 4, 12:54 pm, "Smarty" wrote:
Superb suggestion Terry!!! I never knew this existed. Here is the link to
my
schematic:

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=4zu9gs1

It was drawn quickly with a simple drawing program so apologies if it
looks
a bit amateur. I used to have schematic capture, SPICE, and other PCB
layout
software running but not on this machine.

Smarty

I still don't follow what you are using for switches. I would expect
someone to use single pole switches. Single pole switches don't have
any unused outputs.

What type switches are you suggesting?

I use a program called TinyCad. It is free and pretty easy to use.

http://i15.tinypic.com/4yzn59s.jpg

In article ,
"Smarty" wrote:

pop,

My circuit has 3 switches, each of which control one color. The yellow
switch, for example, turns on the yellow bulbs. Same for red and green. Not
sure what you mean by saying: "Your schematic turns them all on at once".

Smarty



Smarty, do you understand the basic rules of baseball? After a batter
gets three strikes, he's out. If he gets four "balls," he walks to
first. This device is a counter to keep track of how many balls and
strikes the batter has. Each of the individual lights needs to be
controlled independently.

On Mon, 4 Jun 2007 16:27:12 -0400, "Smarty" wrote:

pop,

My circuit has 3 switches, each of which control one color. The yellow
switch, for example, turns on the yellow bulbs. Same for red and green. Not
sure what you mean by saying: "Your schematic turns them all on at once".

He means that your red switch turns on all the red, yellow switch
turns on all the yellow, etc. That's not how baseball** works.

The OP needs 8 switches, one for each light.


**Unless you;re talking about speed baseball. Speed baseball is like
speed dating and speed scrabble (a game similar to Scrabble which will
be out this year. I think each player can only go once in a
round/game).

In speed baseball, the batter gets one swing and it's either 2 strikes
or 3 balls. On the second swing, if he gets a third strike he's out.
If he gets a 4th ball he walks. Or he can get whatever he didn't get
on the first swing. Then on the 3rd swing he either walks, fouls, or
strikes out. He doesn't get more than 3 swings unless he fouls.

The first batter to be out gets two outs. The next batter has to
either get on base, or he's out. If he's out, that half of the inning
is over.

OK, I made all this up just to fit the lightbox you have diagramed.
It might work as a game*** but I don't think it's the game the OP has
in mind.

***I think it is the same as regular baseball but having 2 strikes be
an out, 2 outs be a half-inning, and 3 balls be a walk. But I'm not
sure of that.

Smarty


"Pop`" wrote in message
news:WJX8i.1053$0x3.613@trnddc06...
Smarty wrote:
I agree Terry. I wish I could express it more succinctly. I drew up a
schematic and have attached it here as a .jpg file. This picture is
worth at least a few hundred words..... Hope it helps the original
poster and that he / she can download it.

Smarty



"Terry" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 3 Jun 2007 23:04:12 -0400, "Smarty"
wrote:

When connecting "one switch and one light together" per the
instructions below, you actually need to connect the green switch's
unused terminal to the unused terminal on each of the 3 green
lights, then connect the yellow switch's unused terminal to the
unused terminal on each of the 2 yellow lights, and finally the
last switch, red's unused terminal, to the unused terminal on each
of each of 2 red lights.
Boy that sounds awfully complicated.

Umm, don't you want a separate switch for EACH light? Your schematic
turns them all on at once.

Pop`

On Mon, 4 Jun 2007 16:39:46 -0400, "Smarty" wrote:

Terry,

Each of my 3 switches is a single pole single throw (SPST) switch with ***no
unused terminals". These switches (red, green, yellow) control the red,
green, and yellow bulbs. The bulbs have a common bus fed directly from the
power source on one of their 2 leads, and have switched power to their
remaining leads. The red bulbs, for example, are illuminated when the
corresponding switch is closed.

The common bus connecting all of the bulbs on one side to the power source
is at the extreme far right edge of the drawing, and appears to be nearly
clipped off when viewed on the web site. The uploaded picture shows the line
a bit more clearly, but perhaps it is harder for you to recognize it because
of the way the image gets a slight amount of cropping, JPEG compression, or
both.

Where do you live? You don't live in the USA, Cuba, Panama, the
Dominican Republic, or Japan, do you?

Smarty

Smarty


"Terry" wrote in message
roups.com...
On Jun 4, 12:54 pm, "Smarty" wrote:
Superb suggestion Terry!!! I never knew this existed. Here is the link to
my
schematic:

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=4zu9gs1

It was drawn quickly with a simple drawing program so apologies if it
looks
a bit amateur. I used to have schematic capture, SPICE, and other PCB
layout
software running but not on this machine.

Smarty

I still don't follow what you are using for switches. I would expect
someone to use single pole switches. Single pole switches don't have
any unused outputs.

What type switches are you suggesting?

I use a program called TinyCad. It is free and pretty easy to use.

http://i15.tinypic.com/4yzn59s.jpg

I am definitely ***NOT*** a baseball fan. The revised schematic at:
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=6fsondz

should do it. Sorry for my lack of understanding of the scoring method. I'll
send a revised email to the original poster. He has been remarkably
noticeable by his absence and lack of reply to my former email. Perhaps just
as well....!! ;-)














"mm" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 4 Jun 2007 16:27:12 -0400, "Smarty" wrote:

pop,

My circuit has 3 switches, each of which control one color. The yellow
switch, for example, turns on the yellow bulbs. Same for red and green.
Not
sure what you mean by saying: "Your schematic turns them all on at once".

He means that your red switch turns on all the red, yellow switch
turns on all the yellow, etc. That's not how baseball** works.

The OP needs 8 switches, one for each light.


**Unless you;re talking about speed baseball. Speed baseball is like
speed dating and speed scrabble (a game similar to Scrabble which will
be out this year. I think each player can only go once in a
round/game).

In speed baseball, the batter gets one swing and it's either 2 strikes
or 3 balls. On the second swing, if he gets a third strike he's out.
If he gets a 4th ball he walks. Or he can get whatever he didn't get
on the first swing. Then on the 3rd swing he either walks, fouls, or
strikes out. He doesn't get more than 3 swings unless he fouls.

The first batter to be out gets two outs. The next batter has to
either get on base, or he's out. If he's out, that half of the inning
is over.

OK, I made all this up just to fit the lightbox you have diagramed.
It might work as a game*** but I don't think it's the game the OP has
in mind.

***I think it is the same as regular baseball but having 2 strikes be
an out, 2 outs be a half-inning, and 3 balls be a walk. But I'm not
sure of that.

Smarty


"Pop`" wrote in message
news:WJX8i.1053$0x3.613@trnddc06...
Smarty wrote:
I agree Terry. I wish I could express it more succinctly. I drew up a
schematic and have attached it here as a .jpg file. This picture is
worth at least a few hundred words..... Hope it helps the original
poster and that he / she can download it.

Smarty



"Terry" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 3 Jun 2007 23:04:12 -0400, "Smarty"
wrote:

When connecting "one switch and one light together" per the
instructions below, you actually need to connect the green switch's
unused terminal to the unused terminal on each of the 3 green
lights, then connect the yellow switch's unused terminal to the
unused terminal on each of the 2 yellow lights, and finally the
last switch, red's unused terminal, to the unused terminal on each
of each of 2 red lights.
Boy that sounds awfully complicated.

Umm, don't you want a separate switch for EACH light? Your schematic
turns them all on at once.

Pop`

In article ,
"Smarty" wrote:
I am reminded of the challenge I was once given by an English teacher:

Describe in writing a helix without using either a drawing or your hands to
illustrate......

Hexix: A curve described by the parametric equation

x = cos(t)
y = sin(t)
z = t

where t ranges over the real numbers, or any curve that results from a
rotation, translation, reflection, or change of scale of another helix.

--
--Tim Smith

He has been remarkably
noticeable by his absence and lack of reply to my former email. Perhaps just
as well....!! ;-)

Oh my Jaysus! It's the OP here checking in. Not that I've been
ignoring you, but I work for a living and I had no idea there were so
many of you folks out there who'd respond!

Yes, it's good old American style baseball I'm talking about, with
three independently switched green lights (one for each ball), two
independently switched yellow lights(for the strikes, don'tcha know)
and two independently switched red lights(for, you guessed it, the
outs!) The green and yellow would be turned off after each batter, and
the reds at the end of the half inning. Seven lights, seven switches.

I look forward to Smarty's revised schematic, although I must say I
appreciated the first guy's advice to
"hire an electrician before you kill yourself, the whole team and all
the spectators. ;-) "

Happy Trails...

Wired...

On Mon, 4 Jun 2007 18:39:52 -0400, "Smarty" wrote:

I am definitely ***NOT*** a baseball fan. The revised schematic at:
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=6fsondz

should do it. Sorry for my lack of understanding of the scoring method. I'll
send a revised email to the original poster. He has been remarkably
noticeable by his absence and lack of reply to my former email. Perhaps just

I"ve noticed that too.

as well....!! ;-)

Beautiful! Precise, succinct, mathematically accurate. Minor nit....use of
"helix" in definition's final phrase "scale of another helix" might cause my
English teacher to challenge the recursive reference. I also resorted to a
little Google help on this one and came up with this:

http://dict.die.net/helix/

I still prefer the definition where I get to wave my hand around, or get to
say something like:

"A helix is nothing more than the shape of a screw" and leave the rest up to
the imagination......





"Tim Smith" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Smarty" wrote:
I am reminded of the challenge I was once given by an English teacher:

Describe in writing a helix without using either a drawing or your hands
to
illustrate......

Hexix: A curve described by the parametric equation

x = cos(t)
y = sin(t)
z = t

where t ranges over the real numbers, or any curve that results from a
rotation, translation, reflection, or change of scale of another helix.

--
--Tim Smith

Where do you live? You don't live in the USA, Cuba, Panama, the
Dominican Republic, or Japan, do you?



I might as well be from a different solar system when it comes to baseball.
I guess I much prefer individual competition....car racing, boxing, martial
arts, Olympic wrestling, and those types of things rather than organized
teams as played here in the U.S. I just find the whole business of "major
league" and NFL to be so much big business.... and so little true
sport.......I guess I would call it "the Steinbrenner effect".....


Smarty

On Mon, 4 Jun 2007 16:27:12 -0400, "Smarty" wrote:

pop,

My circuit has 3 switches, each of which control one color. The yellow
switch, for example, turns on the yellow bulbs. Same for red and green. Not
sure what you mean by saying: "Your schematic turns them all on at once".

Smarty


I remember hearing about something called a "progressive shorting
switch" once, but have no idea where to find one. It would be a rotary
switch capable of controlling 3 lights:

position 0: all off
position 1: 1 on, 2 & 3 off
position 2: 1 & 2 on, 3 off
position 3: all on

That sounds like it could be useful for those lights.


"Pop`" wrote in message
news:WJX8i.1053$0x3.613@trnddc06...
Smarty wrote:
I agree Terry. I wish I could express it more succinctly. I drew up a
schematic and have attached it here as a .jpg file. This picture is
worth at least a few hundred words..... Hope it helps the original
poster and that he / she can download it.

Smarty



"Terry" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 3 Jun 2007 23:04:12 -0400, "Smarty"
wrote:

When connecting "one switch and one light together" per the
instructions below, you actually need to connect the green switch's
unused terminal to the unused terminal on each of the 3 green
lights, then connect the yellow switch's unused terminal to the
unused terminal on each of the 2 yellow lights, and finally the
last switch, red's unused terminal, to the unused terminal on each
of each of 2 red lights.
Boy that sounds awfully complicated.

Umm, don't you want a separate switch for EACH light? Your schematic
turns them all on at once.

Pop`



--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Properly read, the Bible is the most potent
force for atheism ever conceived." -- Isaac Asimov

You could use rotary switches to do exactly what you are asking for. The 10
amp 4 pole 4 throw switch shown on this page:

http://www.surplussales.com/Switches/SWRoMisc-2.html

would, for example, handle the green lamps (for counting "balls").

The four throw positions would be none, 1, 2, or 3 balls.....

The 4 poles would be wired as follows:

1 pole spare, the remaining 3 each tied to a green bulb on the rotating arm.
The stationary deck contacts would be wired to do the "progressive" lighting
sequence you designated.

Since the switches are only 4 bucks each if you buy 3 or more switches, and
they handle 10 amps, this would actually make a very nice and inexpensive
solution. A panel mount with three knobs would look nice and be easy to use.
The operator would need to remember to return the switches to their off
setting after each event.

I am assuming the scoring indicator lamps would not draw many amps, but
perhaps the real world situation demands big bulbs....Not really sure.

Smarty

"Mark Lloyd" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 4 Jun 2007 16:27:12 -0400, "Smarty" wrote:

pop,

My circuit has 3 switches, each of which control one color. The yellow
switch, for example, turns on the yellow bulbs. Same for red and green.
Not
sure what you mean by saying: "Your schematic turns them all on at once".

Smarty


I remember hearing about something called a "progressive shorting
switch" once, but have no idea where to find one. It would be a rotary
switch capable of controlling 3 lights:

position 0: all off
position 1: 1 on, 2 & 3 off
position 2: 1 & 2 on, 3 off
position 3: all on

That sounds like it could be useful for those lights.


"Pop`" wrote in message
news:WJX8i.1053$0x3.613@trnddc06...
Smarty wrote:
I agree Terry. I wish I could express it more succinctly. I drew up a
schematic and have attached it here as a .jpg file. This picture is
worth at least a few hundred words..... Hope it helps the original
poster and that he / she can download it.

Smarty



"Terry" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 3 Jun 2007 23:04:12 -0400, "Smarty"
wrote:

When connecting "one switch and one light together" per the
instructions below, you actually need to connect the green switch's
unused terminal to the unused terminal on each of the 3 green
lights, then connect the yellow switch's unused terminal to the
unused terminal on each of the 2 yellow lights, and finally the
last switch, red's unused terminal, to the unused terminal on each
of each of 2 red lights.
Boy that sounds awfully complicated.

Umm, don't you want a separate switch for EACH light? Your schematic
turns them all on at once.

Pop`



--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Properly read, the Bible is the most potent
force for atheism ever conceived." -- Isaac Asimov