Any suggestions on how to attach framing studs into a poured concrete
floor?(specifically a horizontal 2x4, used to attach vertical 2x4 framed
wall at the floor)

I don't think masonry nails will work here, and I don't have a Hilti gun at
my immediate disposal. Not to be picky, but I don't really want to drill
anchors in either. ...

Thanks,
Keith

"keglidd" wrote in message
...
Any suggestions on how to attach framing studs into a poured concrete
floor?(specifically a horizontal 2x4, used to attach vertical 2x4 framed
wall at the floor)

I don't think masonry nails will work here, and I don't have a Hilti gun
at
my immediate disposal. Not to be picky, but I don't really want to drill
anchors in either. ...

Thanks,
Keith


Well you've ruled out the top three means to attach a wood stud to concrete.
What do you prefer; Elmers glue or Velcro?

Hah!

Just as I thought -

What do you think about just using liquid nails to attach it to the floor
(without nailing)? This wall is just around the mechanical room, not load
bearing or anything, and not prone to abuse. Guess I just ought to arrange
use of the hilti gun and do it right though....

"John Grabowski" wrote in message
...

"keglidd" wrote in message
...
Any suggestions on how to attach framing studs into a poured concrete
floor?(specifically a horizontal 2x4, used to attach vertical 2x4 framed
wall at the floor)

I don't think masonry nails will work here, and I don't have a Hilti gun
at
my immediate disposal. Not to be picky, but I don't really want to drill
anchors in either. ...

Thanks,
Keith


Well you've ruled out the top three means to attach a wood stud to
concrete.
What do you prefer; Elmers glue or Velcro?

On Tue, 8 May 2007 18:40:29 -0400, "keglidd" wrote:

Any suggestions on how to attach framing studs into a poured concrete
floor?(specifically a horizontal 2x4, used to attach vertical 2x4 framed
wall at the floor)

A smart fellow; smarter the better!

I don't think masonry nails will work here, and I don't have a Hilti gun at
my immediate disposal. Not to be picky, but I don't really want to drill
anchors in either. ...

What ARE you willing to do?

--
Oren

...through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the photo..

keglidd wrote:
Any suggestions on how to attach framing studs into a poured concrete
floor?(specifically a horizontal 2x4, used to attach vertical 2x4 framed
wall at the floor)

I don't think masonry nails will work here, and I don't have a Hilti gun at
my immediate disposal. Not to be picky, but I don't really want to drill
anchors in either. ...

In a similar situation I drilled for tapcon screws every 4 feet or so.
Didn't even bother with a hammer drill, though I did have to redrill one
hole when I hit a rock.

The following may be overkill, but is what is recommended around here.
Using this technique the wall won't move sideways and the joists are
free to shift over time.

The top plate should be 1/4-1/2" below the joists above to allow for
shifting. To hold the top in place drill a hole in the top plate and
put a framing nail up into the bottom of the joist above, leaving maybe
1/2" of the nail sitting below the bottom of the top plate.

Chris

On Tue, 8 May 2007 18:50:40 -0400, "John Grabowski"
wrote:


"keglidd" wrote in message
...
Any suggestions on how to attach framing studs into a poured concrete
floor?(specifically a horizontal 2x4, used to attach vertical 2x4 framed
wall at the floor)

I don't think masonry nails will work here, and I don't have a Hilti gun
at
my immediate disposal. Not to be picky, but I don't really want to drill
anchors in either. ...

Thanks,
Keith


Well you've ruled out the top three means to attach a wood stud to concrete.
What do you prefer; Elmers glue or Velcro?

Nope, he wants " studs into a poured concrete". Best I can
tell...another means?


--
Oren

...through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the photo..

"keglidd" wrote in message
...
Hah!

Just as I thought -

What do you think about just using liquid nails to attach it to the floor
(without nailing)? This wall is just around the mechanical room, not load
bearing or anything, and not prone to abuse. Guess I just ought to arrange
use of the hilti gun and do it right though....


Around a mechanical room it may be subject to vibration. You don't want
that puppy traveling. Will there be a door? If so you don't want the door
frame to get tweaked. Use the Liquid Nails with the Hilti or some anchors.



"John Grabowski" wrote in message
...

"keglidd" wrote in message
...
Any suggestions on how to attach framing studs into a poured concrete
floor?(specifically a horizontal 2x4, used to attach vertical 2x4
framed
wall at the floor)

I don't think masonry nails will work here, and I don't have a Hilti
gun
at
my immediate disposal. Not to be picky, but I don't really want to
drill
anchors in either. ...

Thanks,
Keith


Well you've ruled out the top three means to attach a wood stud to
concrete.
What do you prefer; Elmers glue or Velcro?

"keglidd" wrote in message
...
Any suggestions on how to attach framing studs into a poured concrete
floor?(specifically a horizontal 2x4, used to attach vertical 2x4 framed
wall at the floor)

I don't think masonry nails will work here, and I don't have a Hilti gun
at my immediate disposal. Not to be picky, but I don't really want to
drill anchors in either. ...

Thanks,
Keith


Get a Remington masonry gun - the type you hit with a hammer. I spent 60
bucks on the whole shooting match. That included nails, gun, and blank
cartridges.

"keglidd" wrote in message
...
Any suggestions on how to attach framing studs into a poured concrete
floor?(specifically a horizontal 2x4, used to attach vertical 2x4 framed
wall at the floor)

I don't think masonry nails will work here, and I don't have a Hilti gun
at my immediate disposal. Not to be picky, but I don't really want to
drill anchors in either. ...

Thanks,
Keith


Well, you've narrowed it down so much that I don't have anything to suggest.
Is this just for a partition wall, exterior, give us some hints.


STeve

On May 8, 7:29�pm, "J.A. Michel" wrote:
"keglidd" wrote in message

...

Any suggestions on how to attach framing studs into a poured concrete
floor?(specifically a horizontal 2x4, used to attach vertical 2x4 framed
wall at the floor)

I don't think masonry nails will work here, and I don't have a Hilti gun
at my immediate disposal. *Not to be picky, but I don't really want to
drill anchors in either. ...

Thanks,
Keith

Get a Remington masonry gun - the type you hit with a hammer. *I spent 60
bucks on the whole shooting match. *That included nails, gun, and blank
cartridges.

and ear protection its loud........

TapCon screws. But you need to drill holes first in order to screw the
bottom wall plate to the floor.
"keglidd" wrote in message
...
Any suggestions on how to attach framing studs into a poured concrete
floor?(specifically a horizontal 2x4, used to attach vertical 2x4 framed
wall at the floor)

I don't think masonry nails will work here, and I don't have a Hilti gun
at my immediate disposal. Not to be picky, but I don't really want to
drill anchors in either. ...

Thanks,
Keith

On Tue, 8 May 2007 18:40:29 -0400, "keglidd" wrote:

Any suggestions on how to attach framing studs into a poured concrete
floor?(specifically a horizontal 2x4, used to attach vertical 2x4 framed
wall at the floor)

I don't think masonry nails will work here, and I don't have a Hilti gun at
my immediate disposal. Not to be picky, but I don't really want to drill
anchors in either. ...

Thanks,
Keith


Don't forget that wood in contact with a slab should be pressure
treated.

You can rent a powder actuated fastener gun for 10-15 bucks if you
don't want to buy the kind you hit with a hammer. If you go with the
latter, use a 3lb hammer; it takes quite a whack to fire the load.

Paul Franklin

Thanks All,
The remington masonry gun gets my vote - not too much cake, and easy enough
for me to handle. I'm just framing in a small closet off to the side of the
HVAC room, and this is perfectly workable.

I'm just handy enough to be dangerous.

Keith

specifically a horizontal 2x4, used to attach vertical 2x4 framed wall at
the floor

Sounds like the bottom plate of a 2X4 wall.

Put 4" foam sill gasket down under the plate and use 2" concrete nails.
Drive them thru the "2 by" until they re flush with the bottom. Line up
your wall and pound the concrete nails "home" with a sledge hammer. One
good BANG ! each should do it

keglidd wrote:

Any suggestions on how to attach framing studs into a poured concrete
floor?(specifically a horizontal 2x4, used to attach vertical 2x4 framed
wall at the floor)

I don't think masonry nails will work here, and I don't have a Hilti gun at
my immediate disposal. Not to be picky, but I don't really want to drill
anchors in either. ...

Thanks,
Keith


Hi,
For easy, clean, quck job, rent Hilti or Remington gun and use proper
fstenenr with it. Concrete nail is there but it is not easy to use.

"keglidd" wrote in message
...
Any suggestions on how to attach framing studs into a poured concrete
floor?(specifically a horizontal 2x4, used to attach vertical 2x4 framed
wall at the floor)

I don't think masonry nails will work here, and I don't have a Hilti gun
at my immediate disposal. Not to be picky, but I don't really want to
drill anchors in either. ...

Thanks,


Go to the local rental shop and rent the Hilti drill and whatever bit you
need. Some Tapcon bolts and a socket wrench to put them in and you're all
set. Probably cost less than $50 and that includes the drill for a morning.

keglidd wrote:

Any suggestions on how to attach framing studs into a poured concrete
floor?(specifically a horizontal 2x4, used to attach vertical 2x4 framed
wall at the floor)

I don't think masonry nails will work here, and I don't have a Hilti gun at
my immediate disposal. Not to be picky, but I don't really want to drill
anchors in either. ...

Thanks,
Keith

Rent a Hilti for a day. Home Depot even rents them now. There is no
faster, easier more reliable method of attachment.

On May 8, 5:40 pm, "keglidd" wrote:
Any suggestions on how to attach framing studs into a poured concrete
floor?(specifically a horizontal 2x4, used to attach vertical 2x4 framed
wall at the floor)

I don't think masonry nails will work here, and I don't have a Hilti gun at
my immediate disposal. Not to be picky, but I don't really want to drill
anchors in either. ...

I'm in agreement w/ the others who suggest either renting the Hilti or
buying a cheap Remington powder-actuated gun, so nothing new there.

I'd suggest the simplest way assuming there's clearance is to frame
the wall section on the floor and then stand the sections in place and
then fasten the top and bottom sill plates to the floor and ceiling
and done...much simpler process than putting down sill plate and a top
plate in place and toenailing studs in.

As someone else also noted, remember to use treated for the sill plate
if in contact w/ the floor slab and the idea of a membrane between is
excellent if it's a below-grade slab particularly.

According to keglidd :
Thanks All,
The remington masonry gun gets my vote - not too much cake, and easy enough
for me to handle. I'm just framing in a small closet off to the side of the
HVAC room, and this is perfectly workable.

I'm just handy enough to be dangerous.

You'll find tapcons a lot cheaper/convenient than buying or renting a
masonry gun for a small job like this.

You can buy a pack of 10 or so tapcons with the proper drill bit
for $10. A hammer drill is best, but a regular one will work
albeit slower.

Put the board in place, drill right through into the concrete,
and then drive the tapcons.

If this is a slab on top of earth (basement floor, garage floor
etc), wrap the bottom half of the lumber with heavy plastic - use
vapor barrier if you have some. Lumber on top of concrete frequently
wicks moisture (concrete is porous), and without protection the
wood will rot.
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

According to dpb :

I'm in agreement w/ the others who suggest either renting the Hilti or
buying a cheap Remington powder-actuated gun, so nothing new there.

You don't need a hilti to drive tapcons.

I'd suggest the simplest way assuming there's clearance is to frame
the wall section on the floor and then stand the sections in place and
then fasten the top and bottom sill plates to the floor and ceiling
and done...much simpler process than putting down sill plate and a top
plate in place and toenailing studs in.

Absolutely.

As someone else also noted, remember to use treated for the sill plate
if in contact w/ the floor slab and the idea of a membrane between is
excellent if it's a below-grade slab particularly.

The membrane and or a piece of vapor barrier plastic (staple edges
to side or top of sill) substitutes for treated lumber.
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

On May 9, 9:26 am, (Chris Lewis) wrote:
According to dpb :

I'm in agreement w/ the others who suggest either renting the Hilti or
buying a cheap Remington powder-actuated gun, so nothing new there.

You don't need a hilti to drive tapcons.

To each his own...I far prefer the powder-actuated route, particularly
if it's an old, really hard cured slab. The Remington is pretty
inexpensive and unless it really is only a one-time and one never does
this kind of thing except once in their life, once you got it, you
have it for whenever/whatever...

....

As someone else also noted, remember to use treated for the sill plate
if in contact w/ the floor slab and the idea of a membrane between is
excellent if it's a below-grade slab particularly.

The membrane and or a piece of vapor barrier plastic (staple edges
to side or top of sill) substitutes for treated lumber.
....

Perhaps although I've never had a treated sill plate fail on a dry
slab if there weren't a real water problem. Again, personal
preference...

Ramset and Pressure treated sill plate.

Done


On May 8, 6:40 pm, "keglidd" wrote:
Any suggestions on how to attach framing studs into a poured concrete
floor?(specifically a horizontal 2x4, used to attach vertical 2x4 framed
wall at the floor)

I don't think masonry nails will work here, and I don't have a Hilti gun at
my immediate disposal. Not to be picky, but I don't really want to drill
anchors in either. ...

Thanks,
Keith

According to dpb :
On May 9, 9:26 am, (Chris Lewis) wrote:
According to dpb :

I'm in agreement w/ the others who suggest either renting the Hilti or
buying a cheap Remington powder-actuated gun, so nothing new there.

You don't need a hilti to drive tapcons.

To each his own...I far prefer the powder-actuated route, particularly
if it's an old, really hard cured slab. The Remington is pretty
inexpensive and unless it really is only a one-time and one never does
this kind of thing except once in their life, once you got it, you
have it for whenever/whatever...

True enough. But, I put in a lot more wall in our basement than the
OP is going to, the floor is over 20 years old, and all the drilling
together amounted to about an hour and a half with a wimpy cordless
hammer drill. With a good AC powered hammer drill (not even a hilti),
it would have totalled about 15 minutes.

It seems like lots of general contractors prefer the tapcon/hammer drill
route too.

I'd use the a power hammer so rarely that I'd worry about losing
the durn thing, plus having to fuss about which power load to use.

And it's a teensy bit more difficult to adjust if you change your
mind ;-)

[I _hate_ nails ;-)]

As someone else also noted, remember to use treated for the sill plate
if in contact w/ the floor slab and the idea of a membrane between is
excellent if it's a below-grade slab particularly.

The membrane and or a piece of vapor barrier plastic (staple edges
to side or top of sill) substitutes for treated lumber.

Perhaps although I've never had a treated sill plate fail on a dry
slab if there weren't a real water problem. Again, personal
preference...

Building code here _requires_ the plastic. It doesn't require treated.
While treated makes a lot of sense, especially as perimeter sills in
termite areas, it's generally not necessary for interior partition walls
if you've otherwise solved the floor moisture transfer issue.

Some people just don't like treated lumber inside the building
envelope in any event.
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

On May 8, 6:40 pm, "keglidd" wrote:
Any suggestions on how to attach framing studs into a poured concrete
floor?(specifically a horizontal 2x4, used to attach vertical 2x4 framed
wall at the floor)

I don't think masonry nails will work here, and I don't have a Hilti gun at
my immediate disposal. Not to be picky, but I don't really want to drill
anchors in either. ...

Liquid Nails alone won't do it - I know from experience. It may hold
once you have the stringer anchored into the other walls, but
depending upon the closet configuration you could still end up pulling
the stringer out of whack.

What I did was pre-drill holes through my 2x4s approximately the same
diameter as the shaft of the Tapcon screws I was using so the screws
could continue to turn after bottoming-out without biting into the
wood. I used those holes to drill pilot holes for Tapcon screws into
the floor using a high-quality masonry bit and an AC electric drill
for this - don't even think about using your 18 or 24 volt cordless
drill.

I bottomed out the Tapcons in the 2x4, coated them with Liquid Nails
and ran a bead of LN between the pilot holes in the floor. Placed the
2x4, ran the screws in, and let the stringer dry 24 hours before I
tried doing anything else.

Held like a mad beast.