All my fans have same problem. When I go to change out a burned-out
bulb, it is stuck because the threads are stuck. I guess the heat
corrodes the metallic threads either in the bulb, socket or both?

I have tried WD40 some, and it helps some, but anyone have another
idea?

Thanks
Jethro

avoid flame bulbs they fail stuck a lot.

turn off power and use needle nose pliars to remove.....

Jethro wrote:

All my fans have same problem. When I go to change out a burned-out
bulb, it is stuck because the threads are stuck. I guess the heat
corrodes the metallic threads either in the bulb, socket or both?

I have tried WD40 some, and it helps some, but anyone have another
idea?

Thanks
Jethro
make sure the bulbs have cooled and use a towel and try to twist them out if
they break which will happen make sure the power is off and use a potato or
needle nose pliers. Works for me.
The problem with most fans these days, they're built in CHINA with cheap
materials

RV
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

LIGHTLY wipe the threads with some silicon grease before you put them
back it. You should be able to find this in any hardware store. Just
put a dab on a rag, wipe it on, and then wipe it off, leaveing a THIN
coat. This will prevent them from seizing up. The issue is not the
materials ... cheap or expensive ... but the fact that they run hot,
have a small surface area on the base, and any moisture will enhance
corrosion. I have also heard the suggestion of jaming a raw potato
(power off!!) against the broken base and using this as a lever to get
the broken bulb base out of the socket.

I've never met a potato that was successful at this, and most people destroy
everything picking at it with a needle nose. You certainly should use a dab
of antiox to prevent it from oxidizing to begin with, but bulbs are just
being made more cheaply now, and they're bases do break off the lamp. I've
had excellent success using a diagonal pliers. Their wedge shaped tip fits
right onto the edge of the bulb base and can turn it out without any damage
to the socket below. Just be SURE to turn power off first



"Jethro" wrote in message
...
All my fans have same problem. When I go to change out a burned-out
bulb, it is stuck because the threads are stuck. I guess the heat
corrodes the metallic threads either in the bulb, socket or both?

I have tried WD40 some, and it helps some, but anyone have another
idea?

Thanks
Jethro

I must not be like most people g

Once the glass have broken out of the base, I have successfully used
needle nose pliers on numerous occasions to grab the metal base of the
bulb and bend the edge away from the socket enough to grip it with
pliers and spin it out.

However, I do agree with using some type of agent to eliminate the root
cause.

RBM (remove this) wrote:
I've never met a potato that was successful at this, and most people destroy
everything picking at it with a needle nose. You certainly should use a dab
of antiox to prevent it from oxidizing to begin with, but bulbs are just
being made more cheaply now, and they're bases do break off the lamp. I've
had excellent success using a diagonal pliers. Their wedge shaped tip fits
right onto the edge of the bulb base and can turn it out without any damage
to the socket below. Just be SURE to turn power off first



"Jethro" wrote in message
...
All my fans have same problem. When I go to change out a burned-out
bulb, it is stuck because the threads are stuck. I guess the heat
corrodes the metallic threads either in the bulb, socket or both?

I have tried WD40 some, and it helps some, but anyone have another
idea?

Thanks
Jethro

Yes I've used needle nosed pliers to do this succesfully. I've been
using this bulb lube for the last few years. Available at Lowes and
Menards. This is essentially the silicone grease idea as above. You can
also get a similar product at automotive stores.
Richard

DerbyDad03 wrote:
I must not be like most people g

Once the glass have broken out of the base, I have successfully used
needle nose pliers on numerous occasions to grab the metal base of the
bulb and bend the edge away from the socket enough to grip it with
pliers and spin it out.

However, I do agree with using some type of agent to eliminate the root
cause.

Jethro wrote:
All my fans have same problem. When I go to change out a burned-out
bulb, it is stuck because the threads are stuck. I guess the heat
corrodes the metallic threads either in the bulb, socket or both?

I have tried WD40 some, and it helps some, but anyone have another
idea?

Thanks
Jethro

Quality lamps use real brass for the base material. Cheap ones use
aluminum or other cheaper materials. They sometimes color the aluminum to
look like brass. In the future makes sure you are getting quality lamps.
The problems are doubled if the fixture is using aluminum sockets.

You might also consider using a dielectric grease on the threads. You
can get it in small qualities at most automotive stores. Use very little.
I suggest not using other types of grease.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit

WD40 is a water displacement product. And a joke. Try a very thin film of
antisieze compound like you'd use on exhaust bolts.

--
Steve Barker




"Jethro" wrote in message
...
All my fans have same problem. When I go to change out a burned-out
bulb, it is stuck because the threads are stuck. I guess the heat
corrodes the metallic threads either in the bulb, socket or both?

I have tried WD40 some, and it helps some, but anyone have another
idea?

Thanks
Jethro

Just to add another comment -- metals like coppy alloys, and aluminum
actually weld together if pressed hard enough. That is essentially what
is at the heart of the problem. The dielectric grease would be good,
but I though the regular silcon stuff might be easier to find, it being
a common hardware store item.

"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...
Quality lamps use real brass for the base material. Cheap ones use
aluminum or other cheaper materials. They sometimes color the aluminum to
look like brass. In the future makes sure you are getting quality lamps. The
problems are doubled if the fixture is using aluminum sockets.

You might also consider using a dielectric grease on the threads. You can
get it in small qualities at most automotive stores. Use very little. I
suggest not using other types of grease.

Is there some big drawback to the "push and quarter turn" style that Europe
uses? I have often wondered why we stay with these damned threaded bulbs.
Certainly plenty other bulb "types" have been introduced and accepted that don't
need to be "screwed" in, but for the standard ceiling and lamp fixture we appear
to be trapped with a crappy format.

"Rick Brandt" wrote in message
t...
"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...
Quality lamps use real brass for the base material. Cheap ones use
aluminum or other cheaper materials. They sometimes color the aluminum
to look like brass. In the future makes sure you are getting quality
lamps. The problems are doubled if the fixture is using aluminum sockets.

You might also consider using a dielectric grease on the threads. You
can get it in small qualities at most automotive stores. Use very
little. I suggest not using other types of grease.

Is there some big drawback to the "push and quarter turn" style that
Europe uses? I have often wondered why we stay with these damned threaded
bulbs. Certainly plenty other bulb "types" have been introduced and
accepted that don't need to be "screwed" in, but for the standard ceiling
and lamp fixture we appear to be trapped with a crappy format.

What's the issue? I've been using them for as long as I could turn a bulb
and I've never had a problem.

Perhaps bulbs seizing up is more a factor of the gorilla like force used to
tighten them in their socket. You don't have to torque them to 120 ft-lbs
to get a good connection.

"Eigenvector" wrote in message
...
What's the issue? I've been using them for as long as I could turn a bulb and
I've never had a problem.

Perhaps bulbs seizing up is more a factor of the gorilla like force used to
tighten them in their socket. You don't have to torque them to 120 ft-lbs to
get a good connection.

In my experience I would estimate that at least a fourth of the burned out bulbs
I replace break off leaving the base in the socket. I turn the bulb until it
bottoms and then I stop. Should I be stopping before it bottoms?

Disregarding any of that, how many other screw-in electrical devices are there?
Not many I would guess. It's just a stupid way to connect a lamp to its socket.

"Jethro" wrote in message
...
All my fans have same problem. When I go to change out a burned-out
bulb, it is stuck because the threads are stuck. I guess the heat
corrodes the metallic threads either in the bulb, socket or both?

I have tried WD40 some, and it helps some, but anyone have another
idea?

Lots of good posts here. Fixtures and bulbs made in China are a big part of
the problem. Silicon spray/grease or WD40 can help. Do not overtighten
when installing. When removing, if the glass separates from the metal base,
turn off the power and have at it with pliers.

In article ,
"Rick Brandt" wrote:

In my experience I would estimate that at least a fourth of the burned out
bulbs
I replace break off leaving the base in the socket. I turn the bulb until it
bottoms and then I stop. Should I be stopping before it bottoms?

Screw bulb in, turn on, unscrew intil light goes out, screw in halfway

--
Free men own guns - www.geocities/CapitolHill/5357/ (add .com after geocities)

"Nick Hull" wrote in message
.. .
In article ,
"Rick Brandt" wrote:

In my experience I would estimate that at least a fourth of the burned out
bulbs
I replace break off leaving the base in the socket. I turn the bulb until it
bottoms and then I stop. Should I be stopping before it bottoms?

Screw bulb in, turn on, unscrew intil light goes out, screw in halfway

Yeah, perhaps if the amount of travel on the center contact was quite a bit
larger then the light would illuminate while still being "loose".

Evo wrote:
Jethro wrote:

All my fans have same problem. When I go to change out a burned-out
bulb, it is stuck because the threads are stuck. I guess the heat
corrodes the metallic threads either in the bulb, socket or both?

I have tried WD40 some, and it helps some, but anyone have another
idea?

Thanks
Jethro
make sure the bulbs have cooled and use a towel and try to twist them
out if they break which will happen make sure the power is off and
use a potato or needle nose pliers. Works for me.
The problem with most fans these days, they're built in CHINA with
cheap materials

It's not the FAN - it's the bulbs. Aluminum bases instead of brass.

Jethro wrote:
All my fans have same problem. When I go to change out a burned-out
bulb, it is stuck because the threads are stuck. I guess the heat
corrodes the metallic threads either in the bulb, socket or both?

I have tried WD40 some, and it helps some, but anyone have another
idea?

After you get the bulb out, how do you prevent this from recurring?

Others will advise slathering the bulb with all manner of lubricants:
Silicon, baby oil, Glycerin, chicken fat, nose oil.

Instead (or including), replace the bulb with a screw-in florescent. This
bulb will probably outlast the fan.

This would be a good idea if you like the quality of the light. I've
always felt that this problem is caused by heat buildup at the base of
the bulb. Especially if they burn base up or enclosed like in globes or
recessed fixtures. Even more so if they're mushrooms like RSPs or RFLs
with the slim necks.
Richard

HeyBub wrote:
Jethro wrote:
All my fans have same problem. When I go to change out a burned-out
bulb, it is stuck because the threads are stuck. I guess the heat
corrodes the metallic threads either in the bulb, socket or both?

I have tried WD40 some, and it helps some, but anyone have another
idea?

After you get the bulb out, how do you prevent this from recurring?

Others will advise slathering the bulb with all manner of lubricants:
Silicon, baby oil, Glycerin, chicken fat, nose oil.

Instead (or including), replace the bulb with a screw-in florescent. This
bulb will probably outlast the fan.

On 10 Dec 2006 09:57:20 -0800, "DerbyDad03"
wrote:

I must not be like most people g

Once the glass have broken out of the base, I have successfully used
needle nose pliers on numerous occasions to grab the metal base of the
bulb and bend the edge away from the socket enough to grip it with
pliers and spin it out.


Needle nose pliers are think and hard to use for that. I use scissors,
not to cut anything but as thin-jawed pliers.

BTW, that is a common occurrence around here, where some people put
strings of C9 holiday lights around their yards. Those are right next
to the sidewalk and a lot do get broken (the fact that these lights
make it hard to see doesn't help).

However, I do agree with using some type of agent to eliminate the root
cause.

RBM (remove this) wrote:
I've never met a potato that was successful at this, and most people destroy
everything picking at it with a needle nose. You certainly should use a dab
of antiox to prevent it from oxidizing to begin with, but bulbs are just
being made more cheaply now, and they're bases do break off the lamp. I've
had excellent success using a diagonal pliers. Their wedge shaped tip fits
right onto the edge of the bulb base and can turn it out without any damage
to the socket below. Just be SURE to turn power off first



"Jethro" wrote in message
...
All my fans have same problem. When I go to change out a burned-out
bulb, it is stuck because the threads are stuck. I guess the heat
corrodes the metallic threads either in the bulb, socket or both?

I have tried WD40 some, and it helps some, but anyone have another
idea?

Thanks
Jethro
--
15 days until the winter solstice celebration

Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"How could you ask be to believe in God when there's
absolutely no evidence that I can see?" -- Jodie Foster

On Sun, 10 Dec 2006 20:54:35 GMT, "Rick Brandt"
wrote:

"Eigenvector" wrote in message
...
What's the issue? I've been using them for as long as I could turn a bulb and
I've never had a problem.

Perhaps bulbs seizing up is more a factor of the gorilla like force used to
tighten them in their socket. You don't have to torque them to 120 ft-lbs to
get a good connection.

In my experience I would estimate that at least a fourth of the burned out bulbs
I replace break off leaving the base in the socket. I turn the bulb until it
bottoms and then I stop. Should I be stopping before it bottoms?

Disregarding any of that, how many other screw-in electrical devices are there?
Not many I would guess. It's just a stupid way to connect a lamp to its socket.





There's the old fuses that have bases like those on light bulbs. I
know someone whose house uses 3 of those (30A fuses).
--
15 days until the winter solstice celebration

Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"How could you ask be to believe in God when there's
absolutely no evidence that I can see?" -- Jodie Foster

On Sun, 10 Dec 2006 16:53:19 GMT, Jethro wrote:

All my fans have same problem. When I go to change out a burned-out
bulb, it is stuck because the threads are stuck. I guess the heat
corrodes the metallic threads either in the bulb, socket or both?

I have tried WD40 some, and it helps some, but anyone have another
idea?

Thanks
Jethro

Coat all new bulb threads with silicone grease. Available at all auto
parts stores - made for spark plug boots.

On Sun, 10 Dec 2006 20:31:06 GMT, "Rick Brandt"
wrote:

"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
.. .
Quality lamps use real brass for the base material. Cheap ones use
aluminum or other cheaper materials. They sometimes color the aluminum to
look like brass. In the future makes sure you are getting quality lamps. The
problems are doubled if the fixture is using aluminum sockets.

You might also consider using a dielectric grease on the threads. You can
get it in small qualities at most automotive stores. Use very little. I
suggest not using other types of grease.

Is there some big drawback to the "push and quarter turn" style that Europe
uses? I have often wondered why we stay with these damned threaded bulbs.
Certainly plenty other bulb "types" have been introduced and accepted that don't
need to be "screwed" in, but for the standard ceiling and lamp fixture we appear
to be trapped with a crappy format.




Americans like to screw !!!!! lol

On Sun, 10 Dec 2006 18:38:19 -0600, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Evo wrote:
Jethro wrote:

All my fans have same problem. When I go to change out a burned-out
bulb, it is stuck because the threads are stuck. I guess the heat
corrodes the metallic threads either in the bulb, socket or both?

I have tried WD40 some, and it helps some, but anyone have another
idea?

Thanks
Jethro
make sure the bulbs have cooled and use a towel and try to twist them
out if they break which will happen make sure the power is off and
use a potato or needle nose pliers. Works for me.
The problem with most fans these days, they're built in CHINA with
cheap materials

It's not the FAN - it's the bulbs. Aluminum bases instead of brass.


Really?

J

On 10 Dec 2006 09:06:01 -0800, "
wrote:

avoid flame bulbs they fail stuck a lot.

turn off power and use needle nose pliars to remove.....


Thanks everyone!

Silicon Grease it is.

I'll get some today.

Jethro

Jethro wrote:
All my fans have same problem. When I go to change out a burned-out
bulb, it is stuck because the threads are stuck. I guess the heat
corrodes the metallic threads either in the bulb, socket or both?

I have tried WD40 some, and it helps some, but anyone have another
idea?


I bought some of this stuff a few years ago and it works great.... haven't had a
problem removing a single bulb since I started using it, and it used to be a
MAJOR problem for me.

http://www.lampsplus.com/products/s_...?lpqsv_cid=114

A little $4 tub will probably last you the rest of your life. The stuff is like
silicon grease in appearance, only it has the consistency of a hard wax. A
little goes a very long way.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com