We were trying to remove a stuck on gas line from a plastic lawnmower
gas tank & used a very sharp razor knife to cut through the gas line.
The gas line came off - but you guessed it - we put a nice clean slit
in half of the plastic nipple coming off the bottom of the tank. The
slit runs up to maybe 1/16" to the bottom of the tank.

Other than replacing the tank - Anyone know of a way to patch the slit
up?

Some possibilities we thought of a
* using a soldering iron to try melting the plastic together - we
thought that would just end up with a melted blob of plastic if we did
this

* using a hot melt glue gun to stick the plastic together- that is
still a maybe but we doubt it would hold as the gasoline could dissolve
the hot melt glue

* using some sort of teflon tape to wrap around the plastic spigot &
then pushing the replacement gas line up flush with the bottom of the
tank & clamping it on.

* or maybe there is a special glue for this purpose?

All suggestions appreciated.

Thanks, Cindy

Plastic welding would be the best fix. The soldering iron is a
decent approach though there are real plastic welders that weld
with hot air and additional plastic. Probably not worthwhile for
a one time activity. Don't get too carried away with the
soldering iron. You could wrap the stem with some fine copper
wire for additional strength.

One other thing that could work would involve cutting a larger
hole that would receive a bolt-on tire valve with the Schrader
valve removed.
___________________________
Keep the whole world singing. . . .
DanG


wrote in message
ps.com...
We were trying to remove a stuck on gas line from a plastic
lawnmower
gas tank & used a very sharp razor knife to cut through the gas
line.
The gas line came off - but you guessed it - we put a nice clean
slit
in half of the plastic nipple coming off the bottom of the tank.
The
slit runs up to maybe 1/16" to the bottom of the tank.

Other than replacing the tank - Anyone know of a way to patch
the slit
up?

Some possibilities we thought of a
* using a soldering iron to try melting the plastic together -
we
thought that would just end up with a melted blob of plastic if
we did
this

* using a hot melt glue gun to stick the plastic together- that
is
still a maybe but we doubt it would hold as the gasoline could
dissolve
the hot melt glue

* using some sort of teflon tape to wrap around the plastic
spigot &
then pushing the replacement gas line up flush with the bottom
of the
tank & clamping it on.

* or maybe there is a special glue for this purpose?

All suggestions appreciated.

Thanks, Cindy

jb weld

--
Steve Barker


wrote in message
ps.com...
We were trying to remove a stuck on gas line from a plastic lawnmower
gas tank & used a very sharp razor knife to cut through the gas line.
The gas line came off - but you guessed it - we put a nice clean slit
in half of the plastic nipple coming off the bottom of the tank. The
slit runs up to maybe 1/16" to the bottom of the tank.

Other than replacing the tank - Anyone know of a way to patch the slit
up?

Some possibilities we thought of a
* using a soldering iron to try melting the plastic together - we
thought that would just end up with a melted blob of plastic if we did
this

* using a hot melt glue gun to stick the plastic together- that is
still a maybe but we doubt it would hold as the gasoline could dissolve
the hot melt glue

* using some sort of teflon tape to wrap around the plastic spigot &
then pushing the replacement gas line up flush with the bottom of the
tank & clamping it on.

* or maybe there is a special glue for this purpose?

All suggestions appreciated.

Thanks, Cindy

Steve Barker LT writes:

jb weld

JB "Weld" is just overpriced EPOXY.

Epoxy does not bond to polyethylene fuel tanks.

I've used it for years to repair weedeater tanks where I work. And it
holds.

--
Steve Barker


"Richard J Kinch" wrote in message
.. .
Steve Barker LT writes:

jb weld

JB "Weld" is just overpriced EPOXY.

Epoxy does not bond to polyethylene fuel tanks.

Richard J Kinch wrote:
Steve Barker LT writes:

jb weld

JB "Weld" is just overpriced EPOXY.

Epoxy does not bond to polyethylene fuel tanks.

JBWeld, I agree, will not work here.

It does a few things that plain epoxy won't though.

D

wrote:
We were trying to remove a stuck on gas line from a plastic lawnmower
gas tank & used a very sharp razor knife to cut through the gas line.
The gas line came off - but you guessed it - we put a nice clean slit
in half of the plastic nipple coming off the bottom of the tank. The
slit runs up to maybe 1/16" to the bottom of the tank.

Other than replacing the tank - Anyone know of a way to patch the slit
up?

Some possibilities we thought of a
* using a soldering iron to try melting the plastic together - we
thought that would just end up with a melted blob of plastic if we did
this

might work, might not. Will only work if it's a thermoset plastic.


* using a hot melt glue gun to stick the plastic together- that is
still a maybe but we doubt it would hold as the gasoline could dissolve
the hot melt glue


I would be concerned that the glue would not actually stick to the gas
tank and you'd end up with a leak between the tank and the glue.

* using some sort of teflon tape to wrap around the plastic spigot &
then pushing the replacement gas line up flush with the bottom of the
tank & clamping it on.


Teflon tape is not a sealer; it's used on pipe threads as a lubricant
to allow the pipe fittings to be tightened more securely for a better
seal. It does not provide any sealing itself. Probably plain old
electrical tape would work better, although again, I'd be concerned
about the gasoline dissolving the adhesive and starting another leak.

* or maybe there is a special glue for this purpose?

All suggestions appreciated.

Thanks, Cindy

How about cutting the nipple off entirely, finding an appropriately
sized brass fitting, and threading it into the tank with some Permatex
No. 2 or similar to seal the threads? Or if the cut into the plastic
nipple is not deep, just cover the nipple with a thin coat of Permatex
and reinstall the hose? (obviously this will permanently glue the hose
to the tank, making future disassembly problematic.)

good luck,

nate

JB Weld is epoxy, sure, but its very GOOD epoxy, and it does stick to a lot
of things that most 'normal' household epoxy doesn't. Why do you discourage
it's use so strongly? it does work quite well. Whether or not it will work
in this instance I don't know..but it won't hurt to give it a try

--

Mike S.


--

Mike S.

"Richard J Kinch" wrote in message
.. .
Steve Barker LT writes:

jb weld

JB "Weld" is just overpriced EPOXY.

Epoxy does not bond to polyethylene fuel tanks.

N8N wrote:
wrote:
We were trying to remove a stuck on gas line from a plastic lawnmower
gas tank & used a very sharp razor knife to cut through the gas line.
The gas line came off - but you guessed it - we put a nice clean slit
in half of the plastic nipple coming off the bottom of the tank. The
slit runs up to maybe 1/16" to the bottom of the tank.

Other than replacing the tank - Anyone know of a way to patch the slit
up?

Some possibilities we thought of a
* using a soldering iron to try melting the plastic together - we
thought that would just end up with a melted blob of plastic if we did
this

might work, might not. Will only work if it's a thermoset plastic.


* using a hot melt glue gun to stick the plastic together- that is
still a maybe but we doubt it would hold as the gasoline could dissolve
the hot melt glue


I would be concerned that the glue would not actually stick to the gas
tank and you'd end up with a leak between the tank and the glue.

* using some sort of teflon tape to wrap around the plastic spigot &
then pushing the replacement gas line up flush with the bottom of the
tank & clamping it on.


Teflon tape is not a sealer; it's used on pipe threads as a lubricant
to allow the pipe fittings to be tightened more securely for a better
seal. It does not provide any sealing itself. Probably plain old
electrical tape would work better, although again, I'd be concerned
about the gasoline dissolving the adhesive and starting another leak.

* or maybe there is a special glue for this purpose?

All suggestions appreciated.

Thanks, Cindy

How about cutting the nipple off entirely, finding an appropriately
sized brass fitting, and threading it into the tank with some Permatex
No. 2 or similar to seal the threads? Or if the cut into the plastic
nipple is not deep, just cover the nipple with a thin coat of Permatex
and reinstall the hose? (obviously this will permanently glue the hose
to the tank, making future disassembly problematic.)

good luck,

nate

Forgot to mention, if you don't feel like messing with it, have you
tried to get a price on a replacement gas tank? It might be
surprisingly inexpensive. I was pleasantly surprised the other day
when I priced out some replacement parts for some Andersen windows,
under $60 for a casement window actuator, and a counterbalance and
latch for a double-hung.

nate

On 21 Nov 2006 20:37:45 -0800, wrote:

We were trying to remove a stuck on gas line from a plastic lawnmower
gas tank & used a very sharp razor knife to cut through the gas line.
The gas line came off - but you guessed it - we put a nice clean slit
in half of the plastic nipple coming off the bottom of the tank. The
slit runs up to maybe 1/16" to the bottom of the tank.

Other than replacing the tank - Anyone know of a way to patch the slit
up?

Some possibilities we thought of a
* using a soldering iron to try melting the plastic together - we
thought that would just end up with a melted blob of plastic if we did
this

No. You'll just get a bigger hole.

* using a hot melt glue gun to stick the plastic together- that is
still a maybe but we doubt it would hold as the gasoline could dissolve
the hot melt glue

I very much doubt it. Won't stick.

* using some sort of teflon tape to wrap around the plastic spigot &
then pushing the replacement gas line up flush with the bottom of the
tank & clamping it on.

No.

* or maybe there is a special glue for this purpose?

I'm sure. I cam accoss plastic epoxy in a double syringe, at ACE
hardware. Haven't used it yet. Should be great.

PC-11 specifically says it doesn't stick to polyethylene, if that's
what you have, but PC-7 doesn't say that.

I would try JB-weld because Steve recommended it, but if it doesn't
work well you can scrape it off later. It wil come off in one piece.

I would have said the same thing about 5-minute epoxy, like from
Devcon, but others have said they won't stick. Hmmm. It didn't stick
to my motorcycle coil which is covered in some sort of plastic.

You might also try GE silicone. Available in 2 oz tubes at autoparts
stores, in black. Again if it doesn't work you can srape it off.
Also available in caulking gun size tubes for far less money per
ounce, and probably won't dry out for months (or years?) if you seal
it well. Mine came with a cap but I used plastic electric tape wound
tight to go over the nozzle and cap.


PC-7 is worth buying even if you think you are only going to use it
this once. in the two 2 or 4 oz. cans. People have raved here for
quite a while about JB-welld, so I bougth some and tried it. And
although it wasn't enough for one particular job, that probably was
not its fault. It has the advantgage of being very creamy and I'm
sure dries with a nice appearance (although in my case, the glue was
hidden from view.

PC-7 is thick and comparitively hard to work ith, but that is all
overcome by wetting one's finger and smoothing things out.

PC-7 is FANTASTIC. IT STICKS TO GLASS, FOR GOSH SAKE.

You can APPLY IT UNDERWATER, OR TO A LEAKING DRAIN WITH A LEAKING
FAUCET ABOVE IT, AND it will be waterproof when it dries.

stick something like a woooden match or a stick in the "spigot?" for
he gas, and then work in the pc-7, making sure it doesn't get too big
for the tube that goes on it. That it's all or mostly within the
slit.

Smooth it with a spit-wet finger, but use each of your fingers, and
only once. That's why God gave us 10 (the thumbs don't seem to work
well of rhtis.. Or at least don't put your glue-dirty finger in your
mouth. In the last 4 months I've learned to pour my spit on it
without touching my finger to my mouth. I doubt if the stuff I used
to taste on rare occasions would kill me, but it couldn't do me any
good.

pc-7 takes a full 24 hours to dry, set, completely. That's if you mix
it well. If you don't, I don't think it ever sets. I use ttwo
screwdrivers, one for each can, then mix it with one of them. Before
it sets, it wipes off the screwdrivers with a paper towell, and will
wash off with plain water too. Although I don't do that in a sink
because I don't want it to go down the drain.

Even when smoo
All suggestions appreciated.

Thanks, Cindy

"mm" wrote in message
...
On 21 Nov 2006 20:37:45 -0800, wrote:

We were trying to remove a stuck on gas line from a plastic lawnmower
gas tank & used a very sharp razor knife to cut through the gas line.
The gas line came off - but you guessed it - we put a nice clean slit
in half of the plastic nipple coming off the bottom of the tank. The
slit runs up to maybe 1/16" to the bottom of the tank.

Other than replacing the tank - Anyone know of a way to patch the slit
up?

Some possibilities we thought of a
* using a soldering iron to try melting the plastic together - we
thought that would just end up with a melted blob of plastic if we did
this

No. You'll just get a bigger hole.

* using a hot melt glue gun to stick the plastic together- that is
still a maybe but we doubt it would hold as the gasoline could dissolve
the hot melt glue

If you try hot glue, heat the plastic first with a heat gun or hair
dryer. If it's hat already, the hot glue sticks better.



I very much doubt it. Won't stick.



You might also try GE silicone. Available in 2 oz tubes at autoparts
stores, in black. Again if it doesn't work you can srape it off.
Also available in caulking gun size tubes for far less money per
ounce, and probably won't dry out for months (or years?) if you seal
it well. Mine came with a cap but I used plastic electric tape wound
tight to go over the nozzle and cap.


Once you try silicone, you will likely have problems getting anything
to stick.

Bob

Yes there is a glue (sealant) that is made for such fixes. It will stick to
plastic or what ever and will not dissolve with gas. I have used in plenty
of times on leaky gas tanks. Metal and plastic. This spring I sealed a
Briggs and Stratton mower, plastic gas tank that was leaking badly at a
join. I used this mower all summer with no leaks. The stuff is called "Seal
All" and can be bought at hardware stores or automotive parts stores.
Several thin coats are better than one thick one. Allow to dry between
coats.
wrote in message
ps.com...
We were trying to remove a stuck on gas line from a plastic lawnmower
gas tank & used a very sharp razor knife to cut through the gas line.
The gas line came off - but you guessed it - we put a nice clean slit
in half of the plastic nipple coming off the bottom of the tank. The
slit runs up to maybe 1/16" to the bottom of the tank.

Other than replacing the tank - Anyone know of a way to patch the slit
up?

Some possibilities we thought of a
* using a soldering iron to try melting the plastic together - we
thought that would just end up with a melted blob of plastic if we did
this

* using a hot melt glue gun to stick the plastic together- that is
still a maybe but we doubt it would hold as the gasoline could dissolve
the hot melt glue

* using some sort of teflon tape to wrap around the plastic spigot &
then pushing the replacement gas line up flush with the bottom of the
tank & clamping it on.

* or maybe there is a special glue for this purpose?

All suggestions appreciated.

Thanks, Cindy

In article , Richard J Kinch wrote:
Steve Barker LT writes:

jb weld

JB "Weld" is just overpriced EPOXY.

As usual when it comes to anything involving chemistry, you don't know what
the hell you're talking about. Yes, it's epoxy-based -- but that's not all it
is. Google up the MSDS on JB Weld. Then tell me that calcium carbonate,
iron powder, and magnesium silicate are normal constituents in most epoxies.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

In article , mm wrote:

You might also try GE silicone. Available in 2 oz tubes at autoparts
stores, in black. Again if it doesn't work you can srape it off.

Yes, but... you can forget about anything ever sticking to it again after
you've put silicone on it.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

wrote in message
ps.com...
We were trying to remove a stuck on gas line from a plastic lawnmower
gas tank & used a very sharp razor knife to cut through the gas line.
The gas line came off - but you guessed it - we put a nice clean slit
in half of the plastic nipple coming off the bottom of the tank. The
slit runs up to maybe 1/16" to the bottom of the tank.

Other than replacing the tank - Anyone know of a way to patch the slit
up?

Another possibility would be to drill out the nipple and use some type
of a "weldless" fitting in the hole. It would probably use a gasket and
screw tightening to form a seal.

Bob

(Doug Miller) wrote in
. com:

In article , Richard J
Kinch wrote:
Steve Barker LT writes:

jb weld

JB "Weld" is just overpriced EPOXY.

As usual when it comes to anything involving chemistry, you don't know
what the hell you're talking about. Yes, it's epoxy-based -- but
that's not all it is. Google up the MSDS on JB Weld. Then tell me that
calcium carbonate, iron powder, and magnesium silicate are normal
constituents in most epoxies.


Epoxies used for gluing have fillers of all sorts.
Fillers don't do anything to increase the bonding ability;that comes from
the chemistry of the epoxy itself.Same for hi-temperature endurance.

For some good info on epoxies;www.systemthree.com,read The Epoxy Book;you
can download it for free.


--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Doug Miller writes:

As usual when it comes to anything involving chemistry, you don't know
what the h...

Your insulting demeanor doesn't deserve anyone's attention.

Your point is just a semantic quibble.

Do you have anyone close in real life? Haven't they warned you about your
malicious habits of speech?

Charlie Morgan wrote in
:

On 22 Nov 2006 05:45:34 -0800, wrote:


Richard J Kinch wrote:
Steve Barker LT writes:

jb weld

JB "Weld" is just overpriced EPOXY.

Epoxy does not bond to polyethylene fuel tanks.

JBWeld, I agree, will not work here.

It does a few things that plain epoxy won't though.

D

"Plain" epoxy is pretty thin stuff. Those who work with epoxy on a
regular basis rarely use it without additives or special hardeners of
some sort. The additives used vary with the task at hand. JB weld is
different only in that it has some fillers added into the mix to give
it viscosity, and the fast hardener is diluted with additional fillers
to make it work with a 50/50 mixing ratio. It cures much too fast to
be considered a really good epoxy. Any epoxy that cures in less than
12-24 hours is sacrificing ultimate strength and bonding ability for
expediency. 12 hours is really on the short side. JB weld has it's
place, but it's a place next to duct tape. It's handy as a quick fix
sometimes, but it's not "better" epoxy any more than a TV dinner is a
"better" dinner.

Polyethelyne has very low surface energy and in reality, almost
nothing really bonds with it well without extraordinary measures. When
they build custom fuel tanks and such from polyethelyne they mount
fittings by inserting them while spinning and the friction causes a
weld to take place. My sugestion is to try JB weld and gluing the fuel
tube onto the nipple with it. If that leaks, then buy a new tank. They
are generally under $30 for small engines.

CWM


Epoxy also takes far longer than the specified cure time to FULLY cure;it
usually takes a couple of weeks to be *completely* cured.

I've found JB Weld to be SOFT compared to other epoxies.
It does have a higher temperature tolerance.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

In article , Richard J Kinch wrote:

Your point is just a semantic quibble.

No, it's not just a "semantic quibble" -- you're *wrong*. JB Weld is *not*
just overpriced epoxy as you claim it is.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

In article , Jim Yanik wrote:
(Doug Miller) wrote in
.com:

In article , Richard J
Kinch wrote:
Steve Barker LT writes:

jb weld

JB "Weld" is just overpriced EPOXY.

As usual when it comes to anything involving chemistry, you don't know
what the hell you're talking about. Yes, it's epoxy-based -- but
that's not all it is. Google up the MSDS on JB Weld. Then tell me that
calcium carbonate, iron powder, and magnesium silicate are normal
constituents in most epoxies.


Epoxies used for gluing have fillers of all sorts.

Yes, but they don't typically include the stuff that's in JB Weld.

Fillers don't do anything to increase the bonding ability;

I didn't say it did -- I just said Kinch was wrong when he said it's just
overpriced epoxy.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

In article , Richard J Kinch wrote:
Doug Miller writes:

As usual when it comes to anything involving chemistry, you don't know
what the h...

Your insulting demeanor doesn't deserve anyone's attention.

I'll make you a deal: you stop posting bulls**t, and I'll stop pointing out
that you're posting bulls**t.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

wrote:

We were trying to remove a stuck on gas line from a plastic lawnmower
gas tank & used a very sharp razor knife to cut through the gas line.
The gas line came off - but you guessed it - we put a nice clean slit
in half of the plastic nipple coming off the bottom of the tank. The
slit runs up to maybe 1/16" to the bottom of the tank.

Other than replacing the tank - Anyone know of a way to patch the slit
up?

Some possibilities we thought of a
* using a soldering iron to try melting the plastic together - we
thought that would just end up with a melted blob of plastic if we did
this

* using a hot melt glue gun to stick the plastic together- that is
still a maybe but we doubt it would hold as the gasoline could dissolve
the hot melt glue

* using some sort of teflon tape to wrap around the plastic spigot &
then pushing the replacement gas line up flush with the bottom of the
tank & clamping it on.

* or maybe there is a special glue for this purpose?

All suggestions appreciated.

Thanks, Cindy

Hmm, so you fix this cheap little tank and park the lawnmower in your garage
and it leaks, catches fire ,the house burns down, the kids are killed and
you saved what 10-20 dollars? Replace the tank!
Eric

On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 20:58:27 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , mm wrote:

You might also try GE silicone. Available in 2 oz tubes at autoparts
stores, in black. Again if it doesn't work you can srape it off.

Yes, but... you can forget about anything ever sticking to it again after
you've put silicone on it.


Hadn't noticed this. I'll bear it in mind.

Doug Miller writes:

I'll make you a deal: you stop posting bull ...

No deal.

May I cordially advise that you simply post all the opinions you like, but
without condemning differing opinions from educated and credentialed
persons? Try to find pleasure in furthering the truth instead of reckless
verbal destruction.

Whether something is "A" or "based on A" is not grounds for your attitude.
The swagger and ribaldry suggest a lack of insight, not a wealth of it.

In article , Richard J Kinch wrote:
Doug Miller writes:

I'll make you a deal: you stop posting bull ...

No deal.

Fine, have it your way -- you keep posting baloney (like that word better?),
I'll keep pointing out that it's baloney.

May I cordially advise that you simply post all the opinions you like, but
without condemning differing opinions from educated and credentialed
persons?

Like I said... you keep posting baloney, I'll keep pointing out that it's
baloney.

Try to find pleasure in furthering the truth instead of reckless
verbal destruction.

"Furthering the truth" is exactly what I'm doing, by pointing out your baloney
for what it is -- baloney.

Whether something is "A" or "based on A" is not grounds for your attitude.

You made a demonstrably false statement. And I demonstrated it. If you're
going to keep posting baloney, you need first to develop a thicker skin, so
you don't your panties in such a wad when someone comes along and points out
that it's baloney.

The swagger and ribaldry suggest a lack of insight, not a wealth of it.

And yet... despite all the times that you've posted baloney, and I've pointed
out that it's baloney, _not_once_ have you ever shown that you were right and
I was wrong. Not once.

So which one of us is it, exactly, that's lacking in insight?

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Doug Miller writes:

You made a demonstrably false statement.

Yes, the demonstration being your flawless specimen of a childish,
irrelevant, Socratic quibble.

You must have many greatful readers who might otherwise take my technical
advice seriously. The world can continue welding with tubes of goo from
the good people at JB Weld, instead of dismissing that product as an epoxy
cement deceptively labeled, as I so foolishly characterized it.

In article , Richard J Kinch wrote:
Doug Miller writes:

You made a demonstrably false statement.

Yes, the demonstration being your flawless specimen of a childish,
irrelevant, Socratic quibble.

No, the demonstration being one of yet another misunderstanding on your part.
That's ok, though -- you go on believing your own delusions if you wish. Just
stop trying to foist them onto the rest of the world.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Doug Miller writes:

... you go on believing your own delusions if you wish.

You're worked a trivial disagreement into vicious, bilious contempt.

You must lead a miserable real life.

In article , Richard J Kinch wrote:
Doug Miller writes:

... you go on believing your own delusions if you wish.

You're worked a trivial disagreement into vicious, bilious contempt.

You must lead a miserable real life.

You know, *I'm* not the one getting all worked up here...

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Doug Miller writes:

*I'm* not the one getting all worked up here.

If you say so. Cold contempt is unwholesome.

I contacted the local lawn mower repair shop & they have a replacement
spigot just for this situation. You cut off the old plastic spigot,
drill a hole & insert a replacement spigot that screws tight to the
tank bottom.

In our case we were able to just push the new gas line up tight to the
bottom of the tank and use two clamps to hold it in place. No leaks!!!