Winter is approaching and always good to save dollars on heating. My
house uses hot water baseboards. The furnace also supplies domestic hot
water.

The house is four years old. It uses six heating zones, each with an
independant programmable thermostat. Temperature is set to drop at
night or daytime when no one is home. We install plastic shrink sheets
on the windows each winter. I'd like to add extra blown in insulation
to the attic to help repair some damage I've done with wiring an alarm
system, as well as compensate for settling.

I'm looking for other ideas or suggestions which will help reduce costs.

Any thoughts on the Beckett Heat Manager? How realistic is the claim
for a 10% savings?
http://www.becketthm.com/

Looking at the data sheet online, it seems main thing happening is to
hold off firing until the supply water temperature drops to about 155F,
and shut off at the normal setting about 175F.
http://www.patriot-supply.com/files/...data_sheet.pdf

Can I get the same results merely by adjusting the thermostats on my
furnace? I've had this done for a few years, and can't see how adding
the Heat Manager could possibly increase efficiency.

Warren wrote:
Winter is approaching and always good to save dollars on heating. My
house uses hot water baseboards. The furnace also supplies domestic hot
water.

The house is four years old. It uses six heating zones, each with an
independant programmable thermostat. Temperature is set to drop at
night or daytime when no one is home. We install plastic shrink sheets
on the windows each winter. I'd like to add extra blown in insulation
to the attic to help repair some damage I've done with wiring an alarm
system, as well as compensate for settling.

I'm looking for other ideas or suggestions which will help reduce costs.

Any thoughts on the Beckett Heat Manager? How realistic is the claim
for a 10% savings?
http://www.becketthm.com/

Looking at the data sheet online, it seems main thing happening is to
hold off firing until the supply water temperature drops to about 155F,
and shut off at the normal setting about 175F.
http://www.patriot-supply.com/files/...data_sheet.pdf

Can I get the same results merely by adjusting the thermostats on my
furnace? I've had this done for a few years, and can't see how adding
the Heat Manager could possibly increase efficiency.

Hey, if it saves 10%, buy 10 of them and you have free heat, won't
you???

Go look at tankless hot water heaters to save some money.

"Pat" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hey, if it saves 10%, buy 10 of them and you have free heat, won't
you???

OK I know that was meant to be facetious, but as a former math major this
type of logic bugs me. You see it all the time, like on Leno's headlines --
the ad says "50% off, then take an ADDITIONAL 50% off..." Leno chuckles
"must be free, hey what a deal!"

Wrong.

50% off of 50% off is 25% of the original, not 0%.

And 10% off 10 times in a row is about 35% of the original value, not 0%.
And that's of course assuming that the effect is stackable, which of course
it probably isn't.

Carry on, just being geeky...
-Tim

Start with insulation, R 60+ in the attic will make your biggest
diference, forget the gimmic you are looking at and consider upgrading
where you fall short, on everything.

Tim Fischer wrote:
"Pat" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hey, if it saves 10%, buy 10 of them and you have free heat, won't
you???

OK I know that was meant to be facetious, but as a former math major this
type of logic bugs me. You see it all the time, like on Leno's headlines --
the ad says "50% off, then take an ADDITIONAL 50% off..." Leno chuckles
"must be free, hey what a deal!"

Wrong.

50% off of 50% off is 25% of the original, not 0%.

And 10% off 10 times in a row is about 35% of the original value, not 0%.
And that's of course assuming that the effect is stackable, which of course
it probably isn't.

Carry on, just being geeky...
-Tim

I see your geekiness and raise you their absurdity. Their web site
say: " it's guaranteed to reduce heating fuel consumption by at least
10%! Beckett HeatManager™ boiler controls improve the efficiency of
most gas, oil, or propane-fired residential boiler home heating
systems"

So if it only improves efficiency in 'most' systems, then ....

buffalo ny: plastic shrink sheets suggest you may need to consider new
wall insulation and replacement windows.
in 1978 we had an old water boiler and put an indoor/outdoor control on
it so the stored water would be hotter on cold days.
around 1990 we upgraded to a modern boiler with multiple zones. it has
no indoor/outdoor control and more efficiently heats a smaller amound
of system water. the hot tap water comes from gas water heater.

Warren wrote:
Winter is approaching and always good to save dollars on heating. My
house uses hot water baseboards. The furnace also supplies domestic hot
water.

The house is four years old. It uses six heating zones, each with an
independant programmable thermostat. Temperature is set to drop at
night or daytime when no one is home. We install plastic shrink sheets
on the windows each winter. I'd like to add extra blown in insulation
to the attic to help repair some damage I've done with wiring an alarm
system, as well as compensate for settling.

I'm looking for other ideas or suggestions which will help reduce costs.

Any thoughts on the Beckett Heat Manager? How realistic is the claim
for a 10% savings?
http://www.becketthm.com/

Looking at the data sheet online, it seems main thing happening is to
hold off firing until the supply water temperature drops to about 155F,
and shut off at the normal setting about 175F.
http://www.patriot-supply.com/files/...data_sheet.pdf

Can I get the same results merely by adjusting the thermostats on my
furnace? I've had this done for a few years, and can't see how adding
the Heat Manager could possibly increase efficiency.

it's a question of heat transfer and momentum, if something is being
heated it is easier to keep heating it then to stop heating and start
again, beckett must have decided that for most installs the temps they
work with are ideal, so if you have some other way to manage this, then
go for it. My B.I.L. has 5/8"bamboo over his in floor heat and had to
compensate by increasing the boiler temp to 190degrees, how the heck
this works with his geothermal lines is a mystery to everyoone that
doesn't do this stuff for a living.

Empressess #124457


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Warren wrote:
Winter is approaching and always good to save dollars on heating. My
house uses hot water baseboards. The furnace also supplies domestic hot
water.

The house is four years old. It uses six heating zones, each with an
independant programmable thermostat. Temperature is set to drop at
night or daytime when no one is home. We install plastic shrink sheets
on the windows each winter. I'd like to add extra blown in insulation
to the attic to help repair some damage I've done with wiring an alarm
system, as well as compensate for settling.

I'm looking for other ideas or suggestions which will help reduce costs.

Any thoughts on the Beckett Heat Manager? How realistic is the claim
for a 10% savings?
http://www.becketthm.com/

Looking at the data sheet online, it seems main thing happening is to
hold off firing until the supply water temperature drops to about 155F,
and shut off at the normal setting about 175F.
http://www.patriot-supply.com/files/...data_sheet.pdf

Can I get the same results merely by adjusting the thermostats on my
furnace? I've had this done for a few years, and can't see how adding
the Heat Manager could possibly increase efficiency.

Hi Warren,

I have an oil-fired hot water baseboard heating system (three zones)
and a SuperStor Ultra indirect hot water tank. The boiler is a
SlantFin LD-30XP, equipped with a Riello 40 F5 burner and is
controlled by a Tekmar, model 260.

Like the Beckett Heat Manager, the Tekmar system uses an outdoor
temperature probe to automatically adjust the boiler's operating
temperature for maximum efficiency and occupant comfort. But I think
the biggest advantage is how it prevents the boiler from cycling on
and off during times when there is no demand for space heating or
domestic hot water.

My old boiler use to cycle on and off every fifteen to twenty minutes
(75 to 100 times a day) to maintain its set temperature; during the
spring, summer and fall when there is no heating demand, this
represented a huge waste of oil -- perhaps in the order of several
hundreds of litres a year. With the Tekmar, the boiler never comes on
unless the hot water tank calls for heat; thus, it typically fires up
only once or twice a day. The indirect hot water tank stores 30
gallons of hot water and is far more energy efficient than a standard
coil or separate oil-fired tank. As an added bonus, you never have
to worry about running out of hot water.

To give you a sense of the potential savings, between May 25th and
September 8th, we used a total of 129.3 litres of heating oil (34.4
U.S. gallons). That works out to be just 1.22 litres per day (0.3
U.S. gallons).

Here's a picture of my Tekmar control:
http://server4.pictiger.com/img/2928...heating-00.php

For more information on Tekmar's products, see:
http://www.tekmarcontrols.com/consumer.html

Cheers,
Paul

On Fri, 22 Sep 2006 20:53:37 GMT, Warren
wrote:


Winter is approaching and always good to save dollars on heating. My
house uses hot water baseboards. The furnace also supplies domestic hot
water.

The house is four years old. It uses six heating zones, each with an
independant programmable thermostat. Temperature is set to drop at
night or daytime when no one is home. We install plastic shrink sheets
on the windows each winter. I'd like to add extra blown in insulation
to the attic to help repair some damage I've done with wiring an alarm
system, as well as compensate for settling.

I'm looking for other ideas or suggestions which will help reduce costs.

Any thoughts on the Beckett Heat Manager? How realistic is the claim
for a 10% savings?
http://www.becketthm.com/

Looking at the data sheet online, it seems main thing happening is to
hold off firing until the supply water temperature drops to about 155F,
and shut off at the normal setting about 175F.
http://www.patriot-supply.com/files/...data_sheet.pdf

Can I get the same results merely by adjusting the thermostats on my
furnace? I've had this done for a few years, and can't see how adding
the Heat Manager could possibly increase efficiency.

F-tank had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...er-148611-.htm
:
The Heat Manager or the perferred more sophisiticated Intellicon HW+
measure the Heat load requirements of the boiler and then using its
microprocesser it adjusts the firing time of the burner to exacting cycles
to ensure the boiler only has the exact amount of Hot water it needs to
satisfy Heat and or Hot water, Intellicon offers a money back guarantee
with a 15 year warranty, so you cant lose, but to answer your question
specifically, manually changing the temp of the boiler is OK but the
Intellicon in a sence changes the temp every cycle which makes it a heck
of lot more efficent which is how it guarantees the 10-20% energy use
reduction

-------------------------------------
Warren wrote:



Winter is approaching and always good to save dollars on heating. My
house uses hot water baseboards. The furnace also supplies domestic
hot
water.

The house is four years old. It uses six heating zones, each with an
independant programmable thermostat. Temperature is set to drop at
night or daytime when no one is home. We install plastic shrink sheets

on the windows each winter. I'd like to add extra blown in insulation
to the attic to help repair some damage I've done with wiring an alarm
system, as well as compensate for settling.

I'm looking for other ideas or suggestions which will help reduce
costs.

Any thoughts on the Beckett Heat Manager? How realistic is the claim
for a 10% savings?
http://www.becketthm.com/

Looking at the data sheet online, it seems main thing happening is to
hold off firing until the supply water temperature drops to about 155F,

and shut off at the normal setting about 175F.
http://www.patriot-supply.com/files/...data_sheet.pdf

Can I get the same results merely by adjusting the thermostats on my
furnace? I've had this done for a few years, and can't see how adding
the Heat Manager could possibly increase efficiency.






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