it's a question of heat transfer and momentum, if something is being
heated it is easier to keep heating it then to stop heating and start
again, beckett must have decided that for most installs the temps they
work with are ideal, so if you have some other way to manage this, then
go for it. My B.I.L. has 5/8"bamboo over his in floor heat and had to
compensate by increasing the boiler temp to 190degrees, how the heck
this works with his geothermal lines is a mystery to everyoone that
doesn't do this stuff for a living.

Empressess #124457


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Warren wrote:
Winter is approaching and always good to save dollars on heating. My
house uses hot water baseboards. The furnace also supplies domestic hot
water.

The house is four years old. It uses six heating zones, each with an
independant programmable thermostat. Temperature is set to drop at
night or daytime when no one is home. We install plastic shrink sheets
on the windows each winter. I'd like to add extra blown in insulation
to the attic to help repair some damage I've done with wiring an alarm
system, as well as compensate for settling.

I'm looking for other ideas or suggestions which will help reduce costs.

Any thoughts on the Beckett Heat Manager? How realistic is the claim
for a 10% savings?
http://www.becketthm.com/

Looking at the data sheet online, it seems main thing happening is to
hold off firing until the supply water temperature drops to about 155F,
and shut off at the normal setting about 175F.
http://www.patriot-supply.com/files/...data_sheet.pdf

Can I get the same results merely by adjusting the thermostats on my
furnace? I've had this done for a few years, and can't see how adding
the Heat Manager could possibly increase efficiency.