4 by 4 ceraminc tiles surround my bathroom tub
White non-sanded grout, 1/16th inch joints

I intend to regrout the whole thing rather than just the bad spot. Most
Most of the old grout is in good shape, albeit no longer bright white.

I've completely removed the old grout in a bad spot or two. As for the
rest... I was wondering if I can get away with lightly indenting the old
grout with a grout saw as opposed to trying to remove as much of it as
possible? This would make my life much easier.

Thanks in advance for any tips.

Local Account wrote:

4 by 4 ceraminc tiles surround my bathroom tub
White non-sanded grout, 1/16th inch joints

I intend to regrout the whole thing rather than just the bad spot. Most
Most of the old grout is in good shape, albeit no longer bright white.

I've completely removed the old grout in a bad spot or two. As for the
rest... I was wondering if I can get away with lightly indenting the old
grout with a grout saw as opposed to trying to remove as much of it as
possible? This would make my life much easier.

Thanks in advance for any tips.











The instructions I followed advised removing to at least ? 1/16" depth.
Do it right. I used the Dremel tool and attachments. The hard part
was smooshing in the new grout - could have used some "muscle" ) The
new grout can't "grab" when it is too shallow.

Norminn wrote:
Local Account wrote:

4 by 4 ceraminc tiles surround my bathroom tub
White non-sanded grout, 1/16th inch joints

I intend to regrout the whole thing rather than just the bad spot. Most
Most of the old grout is in good shape, albeit no longer bright white.

I've completely removed the old grout in a bad spot or two. As for the
rest... I was wondering if I can get away with lightly indenting the old
grout with a grout saw as opposed to trying to remove as much of it as
possible? This would make my life much easier.


The instructions I followed advised removing to at least ? 1/16" depth.
Do it right. I used the Dremel tool and attachments. The hard part
was smooshing in the new grout - could have used some "muscle" ) The
new grout can't "grab" when it is too shallow.

I like the epoxy grout available at tile stores. It's expensive and
hard to apply, but it will not mildew. Do one wall at a time because it
sets quickly.

if you dont remove enough initially the new grout wouldnt stick and
fail fast.

grout doesnt stick to old grout well since its has spoam scum and is by
definition already in poor condition from age, to one degree or another

In article et,
says...

The instructions I followed advised removing to at least ? 1/16" depth.
Do it right. I used the Dremel tool and attachments.

How did it go? I just bought a Dremmel tool and the attachments
and was planning the "fun" later this week.

? The hard part
was smooshing in the new grout - could have used some "muscle" ) The
new grout can't "grab" when it is too shallow.

Hard part? I've always found grouting (other than the cleanup) was
the easiest part of the job. Did you use a float?

--
Keith

krw wrote:
In article et,
says...


The instructions I followed advised removing to at least ? 1/16" depth.
Do it right. I used the Dremel tool and attachments.


How did it go? I just bought a Dremmel tool and the attachments
and was planning the "fun" later this week.

I have tile about 40 y/o, 1 3/4" x 4 1/4". 1/16" grout line, a tad less
in places. The skinny grout joints can cause the Dremel to skip out and
hit the tile, so you can get chips. I think my tile must be porcellain,
as I only chipped one. Wear dust mask. I followed instructions to the
letter, cleaned it well before I started. Had a lot of grout out and I
couldn't figure out why I smelled such a strong odor of soap all the
time. Got out the razor scraper and found a lot of crud I hadn't
realized was there - perfect color/finish of tile to conceal soap scum )


? The hard part
was smooshing in the new grout - could have used some "muscle" ) The
new grout can't "grab" when it is too shallow.


Hard part? I've always found grouting (other than the cleanup) was
the easiest part of the job. Did you use a float?


My old bones make it hard to do the lower rows, and my physical strength
is underwhelming - always tell hubby I HAVE to use my brain to figure
out stuff he can do with his strength ) Yep, used a float and it
takes some pressure to get the grout in for sure. Our condo didn't have
40 years of full-time use, as it was a snow-bird place. Few pinholes,
but have neighbors with same tile jobs who had shower walls totally
destroyed by water and lack of maintenance. Our condo was never
painted, after it was decorated as the original model - even had some of
the original furniture, drapes and carpet. Hubby could have and would
have done the grout, but it wouldn't have looked as good. He does the
tough stuff, I do the pretty, no-drips, no-spills kind of stuff )

Someone on the NG said that grout can be removed with utility knife, but
it didn't work for me. I think I shopped for a saw but couldn't find
one narrow enough? Don't remember. The bottom row of tile around our
shower stall has cove tiles which are a tad lower than the floor tiles
and trap some water and get moldy.

When I painted the ceiling in this bath, I started priming a couple of
hours after the last shower - was surprised to find the ceiling wet to
the extent the primer would slide around. Installed a timer switch for
the fan so's it dries out better.

In article t,
says...
krw wrote:
In article et,
says...


The instructions I followed advised removing to at least ? 1/16" depth.
Do it right. I used the Dremel tool and attachments.


How did it go? I just bought a Dremmel tool and the attachments
and was planning the "fun" later this week.

I have tile about 40 y/o, 1 3/4" x 4 1/4". 1/16" grout line, a tad less
in places.

Ohh, that's a lot of grout. Mine's 20yo 6"x6" with 1/16" grout
line (nominal).

The skinny grout joints can cause the Dremel to skip out and
hit the tile, so you can get chips. I think my tile must be porcellain,
as I only chipped one.

Mine is ceramic. Ceramic wall tile is pretty soft (easily cut with
a carbide Roto-Zip bit) so I was wondering if it would cut right
through the tile.

Wear dust mask. I followed instructions to the
letter, cleaned it well before I started. Had a lot of grout out and I
couldn't figure out why I smelled such a strong odor of soap all the
time. Got out the razor scraper and found a lot of crud I hadn't
realized was there - perfect color/finish of tile to conceal soap scum )

Good hints (gotta dig up the masks). Thanks.

? The hard part
was smooshing in the new grout - could have used some "muscle" ) The
new grout can't "grab" when it is too shallow.


Hard part? I've always found grouting (other than the cleanup) was
the easiest part of the job. Did you use a float?


My old bones make it hard to do the lower rows, and my physical strength
is underwhelming - always tell hubby I HAVE to use my brain to figure
out stuff he can do with his strength ) Yep, used a float and it
takes some pressure to get the grout in for sure. Our condo didn't have
40 years of full-time use, as it was a snow-bird place. Few pinholes,
but have neighbors with same tile jobs who had shower walls totally
destroyed by water and lack of maintenance. Our condo was never
painted, after it was decorated as the original model - even had some of
the original furniture, drapes and carpet. Hubby could have and would
have done the grout, but it wouldn't have looked as good. He does the
tough stuff, I do the pretty, no-drips, no-spills kind of stuff )

This is a Jacuzzi bathtub/shower surround so there isn't anything
all that low but I'll have to build a platform to protect the
fiberglass tub.

I do both the heavy stuff and the no-drip stuff (sometimes not so
well). Her job is to clean the dust from the rest of the house and
have a beer ready when I'm done. ;-)

Someone on the NG said that grout can be removed with utility knife, but
it didn't work for me. I think I shopped for a saw but couldn't find
one narrow enough? Don't remember. The bottom row of tile around our
shower stall has cove tiles which are a tad lower than the floor tiles
and trap some water and get moldy.

I've not seen a saw this thin either and the one I bought for a
previous job was like a hot butter knife through diamond. I'll try
the utility knife first but I have a feeling the dremel is going to
get a workout.

When I painted the ceiling in this bath, I started priming a couple of
hours after the last shower - was surprised to find the ceiling wet to
the extent the primer would slide around. Installed a timer switch for
the fan so's it dries out better.

I've never had trouble paining the ceiling. We'll likely be without
this bathroom for a week, so... I'll paint the ceiling while I'm at
it since I'll have all the woodwork off and the carpet (yes,
carpet!) up. I'm going to tile the floor too, so demolishing
bottom up and finishing top down seems to be the way to go. ;-)

Thanks for your insight!

--
Keith

On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 21:01:11 -0500, Local Account wrote:

4 by 4 ceraminc tiles surround my bathroom tub
White non-sanded grout, 1/16th inch joints


I've been removing the grout thoroughly as prescribed. One thing I'm
concerned about. Perhaps the original tile job was not done
properly and one of the walls is warped as well. Anyway the joints
between the tiles are really skinny. About the width of a utility knife
blade, which is what I'm using to remove the grout in this area
(nearly half of the wall on the length of the tub).

Can I still re-grout the tiles with the skinny joints and expect it to
last?

In article ain,
ldomain says...
On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 21:01:11 -0500, Local Account wrote:

4 by 4 ceraminc tiles surround my bathroom tub
White non-sanded grout, 1/16th inch joints


I've been removing the grout thoroughly as prescribed. One thing I'm
concerned about. Perhaps the original tile job was not done
properly and one of the walls is warped as well. Anyway the joints
between the tiles are really skinny. About the width of a utility knife
blade, which is what I'm using to remove the grout in this area
(nearly half of the wall on the length of the tub).

Can I still re-grout the tiles with the skinny joints and expect it to
last?

Use *UN*-sanded grout, if it's less than 1/16".

--
Keith

Norminn wrote:
Someone on the NG said that grout can be removed with utility knife, but
it didn't work for me. I think I shopped for a saw but couldn't find
one narrow enough?

I don't recommend regrouts because the new grout may not hold
well onto the old grout.
If you're going to do it anyway, use a carbide tipped knife to
cut out the grout, assuming it is the typical narrow joint with
unsanded
grout. These carbide knives have a curved handle and tip and are
sold as a means to cut cementboard. Look among the tile tools at
HD or Lowes, or a tile store will know what it is. It is the best tool
I've ever found to remove unsanded grout in between wall tiles.

Push hard towards the joint, and pull it slow and keep in control.
If you slip, you'll scratch the tile, so keep a firm grip on the tool.

Be sure to cut out all the joints, as deep as you practically can,
to remove the surface soap film. Use an unsanded, polymer
modified grout to regrout.

This information is for homeowners-only wanting to jury rig their
own tile job. It could refurbish a tile wall for a few years, but
isn't
a professional repair IMO.

thetiler