Well my roomate and I tried to replace our thermostat with a
programmable one. We turned off the breakers, labeled all the wires
and got to work. This T-stat is for heat/cooling with a heat pump and
emergency heat.

When we put the new t-stat in, we had 8 wires off the old T-stat. The
manual said to just use 5 (so did their 800 help line).

Here's what we took off.

R = Red
Y = Yellow
W = White
X2 = Black
T = Brown
O = Orange
G = Green
B = Blue

What we hooked up:

R = RC
Y = Yellow
W = W1
O = Orange
G = Green

We taped off Blue, Brown and Black (as per the 800 tech's
recommendation).

Reset all the breakers to ON....

Upon getting it all set up nothing worked, I couldn't even manually
turn the fan on.

So.. this is where we currently sit.

I put the Old Tstat back in PRECISELY how it came off. All the wires
went where they needed to be. Nothing! Not even switching the t-stat
to emergency heat the red light doesn't illuminate.

I tried to use a multi-meter at the T-stat to check the 24v AC off the
Red wire.. but I'm only reading like .03 volts.. (I'm not sure if I'm
not using the multimeter right or what?).

Anyway.. It's hot as heck in the house and nothing I've done has
helped.

Has anyone got suggestions?

-R

On 25 Jun 2006 10:51:41 -0700, wrote:

Well my roomate and I tried to replace our thermostat with a
programmable one. We turned off the breakers, labeled all the wires
and got to work. This T-stat is for heat/cooling with a heat pump and
emergency heat.

When we put the new t-stat in, we had 8 wires off the old T-stat. The
manual said to just use 5 (so did their 800 help line).

Here's what we took off.

R = Red
Y = Yellow
W = White
X2 = Black
T = Brown
O = Orange
G = Green
B = Blue

What we hooked up:

R = RC
Y = Yellow
W = W1
O = Orange
G = Green

We taped off Blue, Brown and Black (as per the 800 tech's
recommendation).

Reset all the breakers to ON....

Upon getting it all set up nothing worked, I couldn't even manually
turn the fan on.

So.. this is where we currently sit.

I put the Old Tstat back in PRECISELY how it came off. All the wires
went where they needed to be. Nothing! Not even switching the t-stat
to emergency heat the red light doesn't illuminate.

I tried to use a multi-meter at the T-stat to check the 24v AC off the
Red wire.. but I'm only reading like .03 volts.. (I'm not sure if I'm
not using the multimeter right or what?).

Anyway.. It's hot as heck in the house and nothing I've done has
helped.

Has anyone got suggestions?

-R


Find the air handler, that's the part that puts the air in the house.
Look for a three or five amp flat fuse. If it's popped then replace
it, if you do not find any fuse then replace the transformer. When you
replace the transformer make sure you put a 3 or 5 amp fuse inline
with the red 24v side of it.

Find the air handler, that's the part that puts the air in the house.
Look for a three or five amp flat fuse. If it's popped then replace
it, if you do not find any fuse then replace the transformer. When you
replace the transformer make sure you put a 3 or 5 amp fuse inline
with the red 24v side of it.

Thanks, the only fuse I've found is this:

http://host1.publiquik.com/bussmann_..._GMQ_photo.jpg

I cannot see if it's popped since it's got a laminant over the glass.
It's a BUSS fuse, not a flat fuse (like cars use).

On 25 Jun 2006 11:26:46 -0700, "Ryan" wrote:


Find the air handler, that's the part that puts the air in the house.
Look for a three or five amp flat fuse. If it's popped then replace
it, if you do not find any fuse then replace the transformer. When you
replace the transformer make sure you put a 3 or 5 amp fuse inline
with the red 24v side of it.

Thanks, the only fuse I've found is this:

http://host1.publiquik.com/bussmann_..._GMQ_photo.jpg

I cannot see if it's popped since it's got a laminant over the glass.
It's a BUSS fuse, not a flat fuse (like cars use).


If you cannot find the buss fuse then just cut the old one out as a
fuse is a fuse is a fuse. I saw your post on the hvac forums. Your
fuse is dead if your reading ol on the meter. As I said, cut the fuse
out, go to the nearest auto parts store and get two spades and at
least 4 or five 5 amp fuses. Where you cut the buss fuse out put a
spade on either side then insert the 5 amp flat fuse. Make sure you
get some extras in case you have a short somewhere. Was the system
working before you changed the stat? If so then you did not turn off
the right stuff before you installed the stat and you shorted some
wires together while doing so. If the system was not working before
you changed the stat then something else is going on.

On 25 Jun 2006 11:49:05 -0700, "Ryan" wrote:


The central unit has a spot where I just put the buss fuse in, turn the
knob to lock it in. How would I replace that with Spade Fuses?

The system WAS working before I replaced the T-Stat. I shut down all
the breakers, replaced it as per the instructions (taped off three
wires I was told not to use).. fired the system back up and have been
A/C less since Mid Saturday!

I see grainger carries the BUSS fuse.. but I may have to wait till
tuesday if they do not have in stock on monday.

Thanks for your advice.


Just cut the fuse holder out and crimp in a spade on each side of the
wire that you cut out the buss fuse holder from. Install the 5 amp
fuse in the spades. Take the wires that you taped together and un tape
them.

Just cut the fuse holder out and crimp in a spade on each side of the
wire that you cut out the buss fuse holder from. Install the 5 amp
fuse in the spades. Take the wires that you taped together and un tape
them.

Al..

The buss holder is sort of like a 'socket' so to speak. The side I see
is the 'end'. It's not like:

--- [ FUSE ] ----

It's like BUSSFUSE==](socket)--------------(wire)--------------------

if that makes sense? if not I can take a picture and perhaps email you.

Since I am renting this property I'm sure the property manager would go
ape-sh1t. He's supposedly got someone scheduled monday to come check
it out.. but I dont want to sit in the sweltering texas heat any longer
than I have to.

On 25 Jun 2006 12:09:29 -0700, "Ryan" wrote:


Just cut the fuse holder out and crimp in a spade on each side of the
wire that you cut out the buss fuse holder from. Install the 5 amp
fuse in the spades. Take the wires that you taped together and un tape
them.

Al..

The buss holder is sort of like a 'socket' so to speak. The side I see
is the 'end'. It's not like:

--- [ FUSE ] ----

It's like BUSSFUSE==](socket)--------------(wire)--------------------

if that makes sense? if not I can take a picture and perhaps email you.

Since I am renting this property I'm sure the property manager would go
ape-sh1t. He's supposedly got someone scheduled monday to come check
it out.. but I dont want to sit in the sweltering texas heat any longer
than I have to.

Guess your screwed then until the ac guy gets there. I went back and
read your original post. The shorted fuse is being caused by the wires
you taped together, also, the other problem is that you don't have
your aux heat wired into the stat if you have brown and black not
connected to anything. One of the wires, either black or brown, is for
the second stage heat, the other is for aux heat. The blue wire is the
common.

Guess your screwed then until the ac guy gets there. I went back and
read your original post. The shorted fuse is being caused by the wires
you taped together, also, the other problem is that you don't have
your aux heat wired into the stat if you have brown and black not
connected to anything. One of the wires, either black or brown, is for
the second stage heat, the other is for aux heat. The blue wire is the
common.

I didn't tape them together, I just taped over the exposed wire so
they'd do nothing. But even then it sounds like I needed the other 3
hooked up huh?


Dangit!

Well the stock t-stat is back on, wired up with all 8 wires. I guess
I'll have to cope until I can get a new fuse or the mgmt company can
come out.

Ryan wrote:

Find the air handler, that's the part that puts the air in the house.
Look for a three or five amp flat fuse. If it's popped then replace
it, if you do not find any fuse then replace the transformer. When you
replace the transformer make sure you put a 3 or 5 amp fuse inline
with the red 24v side of it.


Thanks, the only fuse I've found is this:

http://host1.publiquik.com/bussmann_..._GMQ_photo.jpg

I cannot see if it's popped since it's got a laminant over the glass.
It's a BUSS fuse, not a flat fuse (like cars use).

You said you had a multimeter. How many ohms is the fuse?

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

You said you had a multimeter. How many ohms is the fuse?

--

It was just reading "O.L".. it wouldn't report any ohms.

Ryan wrote:
You said you had a multimeter. How many ohms is the fuse?

--


It was just reading "O.L".. it wouldn't report any ohms.

If that's the same thing it reads with nothing connected to the
leads, but it reads zero (or nearly so) when the leads are connected
together, then the fuse is blown. Otherwise, either you're not on the
ohms range, the meter is shot, or its battery is dead.

You can probably get a replacement at your nearest auto supply house.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

If that's the same thing it reads with nothing connected to the
leads, but it reads zero (or nearly so) when the leads are connected
together, then the fuse is blown. Otherwise, either you're not on the
ohms range, the meter is shot, or its battery is dead.

You can probably get a replacement at your nearest auto supply house.


Alright, I got some new fuses (although they wont work in this thing
apparently). I can get the audible tone to beep with those, or 0.00 if
I'm going for an actual reading from the fuse...

Where as the one in question reads "O.L" or no tone. So.. this is
likely the culrpit, and rare to boot.

Ryan wrote:

If that's the same thing it reads with nothing connected to the
leads, but it reads zero (or nearly so) when the leads are connected
together, then the fuse is blown. Otherwise, either you're not on the
ohms range, the meter is shot, or its battery is dead.

You can probably get a replacement at your nearest auto supply house.



Alright, I got some new fuses (although they wont work in this thing
apparently). I can get the audible tone to beep with those, or 0.00 if
I'm going for an actual reading from the fuse...

Where as the one in question reads "O.L" or no tone. So.. this is
likely the culrpit, and rare to boot.

The picture looked like a garden variety fuse. If you take the old
one with you to an auto supply house (or Radio Shack), I bet they can
get you going.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

The picture looked like a garden variety fuse. If you take the old
one with you to an auto supply house (or Radio Shack), I bet they can
get you going.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .


This picture?

http://host1.publiquik.com/bussmann_..._GMQ_photo.jpg

It sure does, except for that purple KNOB that doesn't come off the
end. I've gone to lowes before they closed and got some 250W 4amp
fuses.. they're a HAIR shorter than this GMQ fuse and don't have the
knob (or the little tangs on the knob end to 'lock' it into the BUSS
holder on this unit..

Here it is in the grianger catalog.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...mId=1611597415

Thanks

Ryan wrote:

The picture looked like a garden variety fuse. If you take the old
one with you to an auto supply house (or Radio Shack), I bet they can
get you going.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .



This picture?

http://host1.publiquik.com/bussmann_..._GMQ_photo.jpg

It sure does, except for that purple KNOB that doesn't come off the
end. I've gone to lowes before they closed and got some 250W 4amp
fuses.. they're a HAIR shorter than this GMQ fuse and don't have the
knob (or the little tangs on the knob end to 'lock' it into the BUSS
holder on this unit..

Here it is in the grianger catalog.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...mId=1611597415

Thanks

I guess I've just learned something. :-)

I've never seen one with an integral "knob" before. I guess that's a
ploy for them to make additional $$$.


--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

I guess I've just learned something. :-)

I've never seen one with an integral "knob" before. I guess that's a
ploy for them to make additional $$$.


--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

I really want to call BUSSMANN up on monday and ask them why they had
to destroy my weekend... but I wont get anywhere.

I'm going to grainger at 7:30am to get these fuses (they have 3,
thankfully). I'll drop one in and flip all the breakers back over to
ON and hope for the best..

This fuse is on the blower box, near all the wiring coming in from the
T-stat.. I'm guessing since this fuse is janky that's the reason I
can't read 24V off the "RC" terminal?

Just trying to think ahead.

Ryan wrote:

I guess I've just learned something. :-)

I've never seen one with an integral "knob" before. I guess that's a
ploy for them to make additional $$$.


--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .


I really want to call BUSSMANN up on monday and ask them why they had
to destroy my weekend... but I wont get anywhere.

I'm going to grainger at 7:30am to get these fuses (they have 3,
thankfully). I'll drop one in and flip all the breakers back over to
ON and hope for the best..

This fuse is on the blower box, near all the wiring coming in from the
T-stat.. I'm guessing since this fuse is janky that's the reason I
can't read 24V off the "RC" terminal?

Just trying to think ahead.

Sounds right. But in my experience, it's rare that I only blow one
fuse, so I'd certainly buy all three!

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

Sounds right. But in my experience, it's rare that I only blow one
fuse, so I'd certainly buy all three!


Well I'm not sure what else I could have blown. This is the only
visible fuse I see.. I guess I could have popped a transformer, in
that case I'll need my technician (which hopefully comes out monday) to
repair.

Al Moran wrote:

On 25 Jun 2006 12:09:29 -0700, "Ryan" wrote:


Just cut the fuse holder out and crimp in a spade on each side of the
wire that you cut out the buss fuse holder from. Install the 5 amp
fuse in the spades. Take the wires that you taped together and un tape
them.

Al..

The buss holder is sort of like a 'socket' so to speak. The side I see
is the 'end'. It's not like:

--- [ FUSE ] ----

It's like BUSSFUSE==](socket)--------------(wire)--------------------

if that makes sense? if not I can take a picture and perhaps email you.

Since I am renting this property I'm sure the property manager would go
ape-sh1t. He's supposedly got someone scheduled monday to come check
it out.. but I dont want to sit in the sweltering texas heat any longer
than I have to.


Guess your screwed then until the ac guy gets there. I went back and
read your original post. The shorted fuse is being caused by the wires
you taped together, also, the other problem is that you don't have
your aux heat wired into the stat if you have brown and black not
connected to anything. One of the wires, either black or brown, is for
the second stage heat, the other is for aux heat. The blue wire is the
common.
Hi,
What is shorted fuse? Problem seems to be that OP'er did not mention RTFM.
Usaually if manual did not come with the new 'stat, it's dlwnloadable.
Haste makes waste. Lesson learned.

On 25 Jun 2006 17:28:59 -0700, "Ryan" wrote:



If that's the same thing it reads with nothing connected to the
leads, but it reads zero (or nearly so) when the leads are connected
together, then the fuse is blown. Otherwise, either you're not on the
ohms range, the meter is shot, or its battery is dead.

You can probably get a replacement at your nearest auto supply house.


Alright, I got some new fuses (although they wont work in this thing
apparently). I can get the audible tone to beep with those, or 0.00 if
I'm going for an actual reading from the fuse...

Where as the one in question reads "O.L" or no tone. So.. this is
likely the culrpit, and rare to boot.

you don't use the ohms function to read anything in that circuit. you
really need to call someone who knows what they are doing to find and
fix the problem.

What is shorted fuse? Problem seems to be that OP'er did not mention RTFM.
Usaually if manual did not come with the new 'stat, it's dlwnloadable.
Haste makes waste. Lesson learned.


I got it fixed with a replacement fuse. I did "RTFM". I even called
the 800 tech to ask some questions about wiring.

you don't use the ohms function to read anything in that circuit. you
really need to call someone who knows what they are doing to find and
fix the problem.

I was using the OHMS function to find if the fuse was blown. Since it
wasn't reading 0.00, rather "OL" it was. The continuity test also
didn't beep (where as the new fuse obviously does).

I was using the multi-meter exactly how it should have been used.

HVACTECH2 wrote:
On 25 Jun 2006 17:28:59 -0700, "Ryan" wrote:


If that's the same thing it reads with nothing connected to the
leads, but it reads zero (or nearly so) when the leads are connected
together, then the fuse is blown. Otherwise, either you're not on the
ohms range, the meter is shot, or its battery is dead.

You can probably get a replacement at your nearest auto supply house.


Alright, I got some new fuses (although they wont work in this thing
apparently). I can get the audible tone to beep with those, or 0.00 if
I'm going for an actual reading from the fuse...

Where as the one in question reads "O.L" or no tone. So.. this is
likely the culrpit, and rare to boot.


you don't use the ohms function to read anything in that circuit. you
really need to call someone who knows what they are doing to find and
fix the problem.

What range on a multimeter would YOU use to check a fuse?

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 01:09:08 GMT, CJT wrote:

Ryan wrote:

The picture looked like a garden variety fuse. If you take the old
one with you to an auto supply house (or Radio Shack), I bet they can
get you going.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .



This picture?

http://host1.publiquik.com/bussmann_..._GMQ_photo.jpg

It sure does, except for that purple KNOB that doesn't come off the
end. I've gone to lowes before they closed and got some 250W 4amp
fuses.. they're a HAIR shorter than this GMQ fuse and don't have the
knob (or the little tangs on the knob end to 'lock' it into the BUSS
holder on this unit..

Here it is in the grianger catalog.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...mId=1611597415

Thanks

I guess I've just learned something. :-)

I've never seen one with an integral "knob" before. I guess that's a
ploy for them to make additional $$$.

Me neither. It's outrageous. 4.30 instead of 30 or 40 cents.
There's probably a way to take apart the bad one and use a regular
glass or ceramic fuse. I'm sure they tried to make that hard, but...

This is why I save things like the caps from fuse holders when I throw
something away.


To answer a later post, it's not that there are more places for fuses.
It's that if the fuse blew, there was likely a reason that it did.
Before one blows too many fuses, it's probably better to open the case
and solder in a tradional fuse holder that takes cheap fuses. It can
use it's wires to go outside of the case. I also collect circuit
breakers from tv's that used to use them, and they sell them now too,
for when fixing blows the circuit over and over again.

Thanks to everyone for their help. I got it up and running WITH the new
t-stat just a bit earlier, too.

-R

Those fuses were a ripoff from Trane-- about $4.00, and I have never
seen them available anywhere but a Trane parts dist. A few years ago
they finally quit using them and went to the flat car type that are
about 50 cents. Also, can't see the stat from here, but the white wire
should probably go on W2, if there is one on the stat, rather than W1. I
had a call several years ago where a customer had installed a
programmable stat on a Trane HP himself during the winter and hooked
white to W!. I bet he was real pleased with himself at how much warmer
air it put out, but was probably baffled why his electric bill went up
instead of down. Anyway, first warm day, the A/C was running, but
blowing out air about room temp. The heat strips were running any time
the comp. was. Hooking the white to W2 fixed it.

lp13-30 wrote:
Those fuses were a ripoff from Trane-- about $4.00, and I have never
seen them available anywhere but a Trane parts dist. A few years ago
they finally quit using them and went to the flat car type that are
about 50 cents. Also, can't see the stat from here, but the white wire
should probably go on W2, if there is one on the stat, rather than W1. I
had a call several years ago where a customer had installed a
programmable stat on a Trane HP himself during the winter and hooked
white to W!. I bet he was real pleased with himself at how much warmer
air it put out, but was probably baffled why his electric bill went up
instead of down. Anyway, first warm day, the A/C was running, but
blowing out air about room temp. The heat strips were running any time
the comp. was. Hooking the white to W2 fixed it.

Thanks for the info. The stat has a W and a W2. However W and Y are
jumpered for my particular setup. It's blowing colder than room temp
air for certain, but I'll keep it in mind if I run into any problems.

lp13-30 wrote:
Those fuses were a ripoff from Trane-- about $4.00, and I have never
seen them available anywhere but a Trane parts dist. A few years ago
they finally quit using them and went to the flat car type that are
about 50 cents. Also, can't see the stat from here, but the white wire
should probably go on W2, if there is one on the stat, rather than W1. I
had a call several years ago where a customer had installed a
programmable stat on a Trane HP himself during the winter and hooked
white to W!. I bet he was real pleased with himself at how much warmer
air it put out, but was probably baffled why his electric bill went up
instead of down. Anyway, first warm day, the A/C was running, but
blowing out air about room temp. The heat strips were running any time
the comp. was. Hooking the white to W2 fixed it.

Hmmmm,
Wait a minute, people ever read the manual and tunr off the system when
doing something like this? I just don't understand.