I have a wholehouse ventilator, which is a 36" fan that sucks cool air
through the windows and pushes the hot air in the house and attic out
the soffit vents. Much cheaper than running the A/C. Here's the
problem.

I recently had a contract working near it doing some drywall work. All
he was doing was feathering in some mud and texturing.

Before he was here, it worked. Now it doesn't.

When I turn the power knob, I can hear what I perceive to be an
electrical current going to the motor. I'm pretty sure there's juice
there.

I just can figure out why the motor won't turn?

Any ideas at all?

Thanks.

"ctd4x4" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have a wholehouse ventilator, which is a 36" fan that sucks cool air
through the windows and pushes the hot air in the house and attic out
the soffit vents. Much cheaper than running the A/C. Here's the
problem.

I recently had a contract working near it doing some drywall work. All
he was doing was feathering in some mud and texturing.

Before he was here, it worked. Now it doesn't.

When I turn the power knob, I can hear what I perceive to be an
electrical current going to the motor. I'm pretty sure there's juice
there.

I just can figure out why the motor won't turn?

Any ideas at all?

Thanks.



YOU CAN HEAR the electricity?

Better man than me Charlie Brown. I use a voltage tester.

Bad switch or bad motor or seized motor, or some obstruction holding the
blades
"ctd4x4" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have a wholehouse ventilator, which is a 36" fan that sucks cool air
through the windows and pushes the hot air in the house and attic out
the soffit vents. Much cheaper than running the A/C. Here's the
problem.

I recently had a contract working near it doing some drywall work. All
he was doing was feathering in some mud and texturing.

Before he was here, it worked. Now it doesn't.

When I turn the power knob, I can hear what I perceive to be an
electrical current going to the motor. I'm pretty sure there's juice
there.

I just can figure out why the motor won't turn?

Any ideas at all?

Thanks.

"ctd4x4" wrote in message

I recently had a contract working near it doing some drywall work. All
he was doing was feathering in some mud and texturing.

Before he was here, it worked. Now it doesn't.

When I turn the power knob, I can hear what I perceive to be an
electrical current going to the motor. I'm pretty sure there's juice
there.

Sounds like you are getting some juice to it, perhaps even there's not
problem with the control.

Have you looked at the fan - possible there's a tool or a piece of wood
blocking the blades. Don't know what else could he have done.

RichK

On 22 Apr 2006 09:31:17 -0700, "ctd4x4" wrote:

I have a wholehouse ventilator, which is a 36" fan that sucks cool air
through the windows and pushes the hot air in the house and attic out
the soffit vents. Much cheaper than running the A/C. Here's the
problem.

I recently had a contract working near it doing some drywall work. All
he was doing was feathering in some mud and texturing.

Before he was here, it worked. Now it doesn't.

When I turn the power knob, I can hear what I perceive to be an
electrical current going to the motor. I'm pretty sure there's juice
there.

I just can figure out why the motor won't turn?

Any ideas at all?

Thanks.


IMHO:

I would just start off with testing from the source of electricity
down to the end.

Is the breaker closed? Tripped?

Is the switch on?

Is the fan blocked? Does it rotate by hand(with power off).

Then I would start checking for 'power' at specific points. Starting
at the load, then backwards with power stick, and volt meter.

But this is me, others might have other suggestions. Remember, only
qualified personnel should work on electrical systems.

later,

tom @ www.Consolidated-Loans.info

On Sat, 22 Apr 2006 09:40:20 -0700, "SQLit" wrote:


"ctd4x4" wrote in message
oups.com...
I have a wholehouse ventilator, which is a 36" fan that sucks cool air
through the windows and pushes the hot air in the house and attic out
the soffit vents. Much cheaper than running the A/C. Here's the
problem.

I recently had a contract working near it doing some drywall work. All
he was doing was feathering in some mud and texturing.

Before he was here, it worked. Now it doesn't.

When I turn the power knob, I can hear what I perceive to be an
electrical current going to the motor. I'm pretty sure there's juice
there.

I just can figure out why the motor won't turn?

Any ideas at all?

Thanks.



YOU CAN HEAR the electricity?


Maybe it's the motor trying to run. Sometimes motors'll start if
pushed a little by hand.

Better man than me Charlie Brown. I use a voltage tester.

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what
to have for lunch. Liberty is a well armed lamb
contesting the vote." - Benjamin Franklin

Sorry. I didn't mean that I could hear electricity, but I meant that
the motor is getting power and humming.

Nutone wants $363 for a new motor. This unit is only 4 years old. Would
I be better off trying to have it repaired?

Also, the drywall contractor I had working in here was using the fan to
clear out all the dust as he was sanding. I bet it clogged up the
motor. Any thoughts on that idea?

Maybe I could take it apart and blow out all the dust.

I would rather expect the dust to be sucked around the motor and out. If the
motor is seized, you may be able to clean it out, but if it spins freely
without power applied, but only hums with power applied, you probably have a
bad motor. I'm sure you can find a replacement motor from some place like
Grainger for about $100



"ctd4x4" wrote in message
oups.com...
Sorry. I didn't mean that I could hear electricity, but I meant that
the motor is getting power and humming.

Nutone wants $363 for a new motor. This unit is only 4 years old. Would
I be better off trying to have it repaired?

Also, the drywall contractor I had working in here was using the fan to
clear out all the dust as he was sanding. I bet it clogged up the
motor. Any thoughts on that idea?

Maybe I could take it apart and blow out all the dust.

How would I know what motor to buy? Grainger's website has a ton.

When you say I may have a bad motor, does that mean it's not worth
trying to repair?

If it has a bad winding, it's not worth repairing. Somewhere on the motor is
a nameplate. On the nameplate is the essential information. Voltage-
HP-Speed-Direction-Frame. If you are not qualified, pull the motor and bring
it to Graingers, or a motor shop



"ctd4x4" wrote in message
oups.com...
How would I know what motor to buy? Grainger's website has a ton.

When you say I may have a bad motor, does that mean it's not worth
trying to repair?

On 23 Apr 2006 14:20:21 -0700, "ctd4x4" wrote:

Sorry. I didn't mean that I could hear electricity, but I meant that
the motor is getting power and humming.

Nutone wants $363 for a new motor. This unit is only 4 years old. Would
I be better off trying to have it repaired?

Also, the drywall contractor I had working in here was using the fan to
clear out all the dust as he was sanding. I bet it clogged up the
motor. Any thoughts on that idea?

Maybe I could take it apart and blow out all the dust.


Just curious, have you tried turning it by hand? With the power off
ofcourse?

Maybe a good vacuum could clean it out too.

later,

tom @ www.FindMeShelter.com

Thanks, Tom. Yes, I tried turning the power on and spinning the blades
by hand. The humming gets a little louder, but it doesn't go.

Someone else suggested blowing the drywall dust out with a compressor,
while others say to just replace the motor.

remove motor take to grainger, to get right replacement model.

Dumb question, but does Grainger sell exactly the same motor? Nutone
wants $360 for a new one. A completely new wholehouse fan can be had
from them for $350.

I know Nutone's model number for the motor (K8484000) and the specs:
2-speed, 1/3HP, 615 watts, 6.5 amps, 1725 RPM.

They probably sell one that's close enough to work properly. you need to
call them or go there and give them all the specs.
"ctd4x4" wrote in message
oups.com...
Dumb question, but does Grainger sell exactly the same motor? Nutone
wants $360 for a new one. A completely new wholehouse fan can be had
from them for $350.

I know Nutone's model number for the motor (K8484000) and the specs:
2-speed, 1/3HP, 615 watts, 6.5 amps, 1725 RPM.

According to ctd4x4 :
Dumb question, but does Grainger sell exactly the same motor? Nutone
wants $360 for a new one. A completely new wholehouse fan can be had
from them for $350.

I know Nutone's model number for the motor (K8484000) and the specs:
2-speed, 1/3HP, 615 watts, 6.5 amps, 1725 RPM.

By all means, check out Graingers - it might be a moderately standard
form-factor motor (all you have to do is match HP, RPMs, voltage
mounting and speeds.).

Otherwise, getting it rebuilt may be a perfectly good option.

I had a Sears 1HP RAS motor go bad. Unique, now unobtainable motor.
Repair cost about $90 (including taxes).

HOWEVER,

Before doing either tho, I'd carefully run continuity/short tests of all the
wiring. Eg: breaker to switch, switch to motor, neutral-case etc.
Inspect the connections inside the motor. Inspect any wire that contractor
may have come in contact with.

While a hot-neutral short, say, would show itself by blowing a breaker,
it seems to me that, say, a short between the high and low leads could
lead to the motor humming and refusing to start. Check inside the motor's
junction box for something that slipped off/shorting an adjacent wire.

[Given what you're looking for, be _careful_ touching the motor housing
under power. Check for voltage on the case.]

Secondly, the starter contacts may be stuck. Give the motor case and shaft
end a couple good hard raps with a screwdriver handle or rubber mallet. Hard
enough to get its teeth rattling, but not enough to fracture its skull ;-)

If that fails to get it to start, you have nothing to lose by disassembling
the motor and checking contactors etc.

[Remember to kill the breaker of course.]
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.