Since last week every time someone takes a bath the T&P valve
discharges a small amount of water. When this happens, the water looks
a bit rusty. If I pull lever on the valve, the rusty water will drain
and for a day or so there'll be no more leaks, then it starts again. I
checked the water line pressure and it's at 60 PSI.

I've replaced the valve and flushed the tank for about 30 min - two
days later the leak is back and water is rusty again when the lever is
pulled.
Any ideas?

thanks,
GE

wrote:
Since last week every time someone takes a bath the T&P valve
discharges a small amount of water. When this happens, the water looks
a bit rusty. If I pull lever on the valve, the rusty water will drain
and for a day or so there'll be no more leaks, then it starts again. I
checked the water line pressure and it's at 60 PSI.

I've replaced the valve and flushed the tank for about 30 min - two
days later the leak is back and water is rusty again when the lever is
pulled.
Any ideas?

thanks,
GE

If the replaced T&p valve leaks (And its not defective and is a proper
replacement) it means its doing its job, releasing too much pressure.

Even though you have 60psi coming in water, as it heats, expands,
creating more pressure.

You could have a water heater that is over heating, try turning down he
temp a bit.

Also - an expansion tank may be in order if you do not have one. They
are not expensive and easy to install if you can solder.

Here is a picture of one.
http://www.watts.com/prod_images/hi-res/det-20-m1.jpg
If you do not have one thats where i would start if turning down the
heat doesn't solve the problem.

Inviato da X-Privat.Org - Registrazione gratuita http://www.x-privat.org/join.php

wrote:
Since last week every time someone takes a bath the T&P valve
discharges a small amount of water. When this happens, the water looks
a bit rusty. If I pull lever on the valve, the rusty water will drain
and for a day or so there'll be no more leaks, then it starts again. I
checked the water line pressure and it's at 60 PSI.

I've replaced the valve and flushed the tank for about 30 min - two
days later the leak is back and water is rusty again when the lever is
pulled.
Any ideas?

thanks,
GE

The valve is doing it's job, it is releasing pressure or opening due to
temperature. I would say that at 60 PSI, it is likely due to the pressure.
Back that pressure back to 40-50 and that should take care of it.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

No wrote:
wrote:

Since last week every time someone takes a bath the T&P valve
discharges a small amount of water. When this happens, the water looks
a bit rusty. If I pull lever on the valve, the rusty water will drain
and for a day or so there'll be no more leaks, then it starts again. I
checked the water line pressure and it's at 60 PSI.

I've replaced the valve and flushed the tank for about 30 min - two
days later the leak is back and water is rusty again when the lever is
pulled.
Any ideas?

thanks,
GE

If the replaced T&p valve leaks (And its not defective and is a proper
replacement) it means its doing its job, releasing too much pressure.

Even though you have 60psi coming in water, as it heats, expands,
creating more pressure.

You could have a water heater that is over heating, try turning down he
temp a bit.

Also - an expansion tank may be in order if you do not have one. They
are not expensive and easy to install if you can solder.

Here is a picture of one.
http://www.watts.com/prod_images/hi-res/det-20-m1.jpg
If you do not have one thats where i would start if turning down the
heat doesn't solve the problem.

Inviato da X-Privat.Org - Registrazione gratuita
http://www.x-privat.org/join.php


You should also check to see if you have a backflow check valve or a
pressure reducing valve with a built in check valve in your main water
supply feed line.

If you do, then its almost a certainty that you'd need an expansion tank
to prevent what you're experiencing.

Perhaps you have an expansion tank already and don't know it, and it's
"waterlogged" and not doing its job, and/or it's the kind which has a
rubber diphragm in it which has ruptured.

I suspect that if you check, the valve isn't leaking "when" someone is
taking a bath, but 10 minutes or so after they shut off the hot water
tap and the new cold water which entered the heater gets warmed up and
expands.

And, from the description of the "rusty water" you're finding I'd say
tthat heater is on its last legs too.

HTH,

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

On 21 Apr 2006 10:06:24 -0700, wrote:

Since last week every time someone takes a bath the T&P valve
discharges a small amount of water. When this happens, the water looks
a bit rusty. If I pull lever on the valve, the rusty water will drain
and for a day or so there'll be no more leaks, then it starts again. I
checked the water line pressure and it's at 60 PSI.

I've replaced the valve and flushed the tank for about 30 min - two
days later the leak is back and water is rusty again when the lever is
pulled.
Any ideas?

Try draining and flushing the hot-water tank, (that should
take care of the rust for a while) and then making sure
that the expansion tank (which should be on or near the
water tank) is not full of water. Can you have someone
run the tub while you watch the valve, to see if it leaks
while the water's running, or when they shut if off, or
at some other time?

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
et...
No wrote:
wrote:

Since last week every time someone takes a bath the T&P valve
discharges a small amount of water. When this happens, the water looks
a bit rusty. If I pull lever on the valve, the rusty water will drain
and for a day or so there'll be no more leaks, then it starts again. I
checked the water line pressure and it's at 60 PSI.

I've replaced the valve and flushed the tank for about 30 min - two
days later the leak is back and water is rusty again when the lever is
pulled.
Any ideas?

thanks,
GE

If the replaced T&p valve leaks (And its not defective and is a proper
replacement) it means its doing its job, releasing too much pressure.

Even though you have 60psi coming in water, as it heats, expands,
creating more pressure.

You could have a water heater that is over heating, try turning down he
temp a bit.

Also - an expansion tank may be in order if you do not have one. They are
not expensive and easy to install if you can solder.

Here is a picture of one.
http://www.watts.com/prod_images/hi-res/det-20-m1.jpg
If you do not have one thats where i would start if turning down the heat
doesn't solve the problem.

Inviato da X-Privat.Org - Registrazione gratuita
http://www.x-privat.org/join.php


You should also check to see if you have a backflow check valve or a
pressure reducing valve with a built in check valve in your main water
supply feed line.

If you do, then its almost a certainty that you'd need an expansion tank
to prevent what you're experiencing.

Perhaps you have an expansion tank already and don't know it, and it's
"waterlogged" and not doing its job, and/or it's the kind which has a
rubber diphragm in it which has ruptured.

I suspect that if you check, the valve isn't leaking "when" someone is
taking a bath, but 10 minutes or so after they shut off the hot water tap
and the new cold water which entered the heater gets warmed up and
expands.

And, from the description of the "rusty water" you're finding I'd say
tthat heater is on its last legs too.

HTH,

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."


If the valve leaks when the water is turned off, perhaps a water hammer
arrestor has become waterlogged. you can drain the system and refill to
recharge or you can add one near the bathroon valves.

Joseph Meehan wrote:
wrote:

Since last week every time someone takes a bath the T&P valve
discharges a small amount of water. When this happens, the water looks
a bit rusty. If I pull lever on the valve, the rusty water will drain
and for a day or so there'll be no more leaks, then it starts again. I
checked the water line pressure and it's at 60 PSI.

I've replaced the valve and flushed the tank for about 30 min - two
days later the leak is back and water is rusty again when the lever is
pulled.
Any ideas?

thanks,
GE


The valve is doing it's job, it is releasing pressure or opening due to
temperature. I would say that at 60 PSI, it is likely due to the pressure.
Back that pressure back to 40-50 and that should take care of it.


But that doesn't answer why the valve all of a
sudden started leaking. Besides 60PSI is way
below what a T&P valve is set for. Could be
someone installed a back flow preventer, at the
street or somewhere in the house line. Otherwise
the original valve went bad.

The real point is that one should never trip the
TP valve with pressure in the line because it may
not seat properly. The best bet as a first step
with the new valve is to nearly close the supply
valve to the hot water tank, open the T&P valve to
let water flow for a bit to clean out any rust,
close the supply valve tight, and then let the T&P
valve snap shut. Might want open and let the T&P
snap shut a couple of times. Then turn then open
the water supply valve. Of course the new valve
may be bad. But if doing what I said doesn't
solve the problem, look for a change in the water
supply line, house or at the street.

George E. Cawthon wrote:
Joseph Meehan wrote:
wrote:

Since last week every time someone takes a bath the T&P valve
discharges a small amount of water. When this happens, the water
looks a bit rusty. If I pull lever on the valve, the rusty water
will drain and for a day or so there'll be no more leaks, then it
starts again. I checked the water line pressure and it's at 60 PSI.

I've replaced the valve and flushed the tank for about 30 min - two
days later the leak is back and water is rusty again when the lever
is pulled.
Any ideas?

thanks,
GE


The valve is doing it's job, it is releasing pressure or opening
due to temperature. I would say that at 60 PSI, it is likely due to
the pressure. Back that pressure back to 40-50 and that should take
care of it.

But that doesn't answer why the valve all of a
sudden started leaking. Besides 60PSI is way
below what a T&P valve is set for. Could be
someone installed a back flow preventer, at the
street or somewhere in the house line. Otherwise
the original valve went bad.

The real point is that one should never trip the
TP valve with pressure in the line because it may
not seat properly. The best bet as a first step
with the new valve is to nearly close the supply
valve to the hot water tank, open the T&P valve to
let water flow for a bit to clean out any rust,
close the supply valve tight, and then let the T&P
valve snap shut. Might want open and let the T&P
snap shut a couple of times. Then turn then open
the water supply valve. Of course the new valve
may be bad. But if doing what I said doesn't
solve the problem, look for a change in the water
supply line, house or at the street.

Do you have a check valve somewhere?

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

Thank you all for the replies, I guess what I am trying to figure out
is why the valve started leaking suddenly. And this rusty water is
also a bit puzzling. To answer your questions - I do have a check
valve and no expansion tank here. I do not think that I need one
because the water heater worked fine for 15 years ( maybe it's getting
old ). I don't think 60 PSI is the problem here. I did lowered the
thermostat setting from 130F to 120F to see if it helps. I will
monitor the valve to see at what point it's leaking.

Thanks again,
GE

egou wrote:
.. To answer your questions - I do have a check
valve and no expansion tank here. I do not think that I need one

Water expands when it is heated. It needs somewhere to go. I suggest
you go for that expansion tank you don't think you need. You are certainly
not the first one here with that kind of problem.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

Joseph Meehan wrote:
George E. Cawthon wrote:

Joseph Meehan wrote:

wrote:


Since last week every time someone takes a bath the T&P valve
discharges a small amount of water. When this happens, the water
looks a bit rusty. If I pull lever on the valve, the rusty water
will drain and for a day or so there'll be no more leaks, then it
starts again. I checked the water line pressure and it's at 60 PSI.

I've replaced the valve and flushed the tank for about 30 min - two
days later the leak is back and water is rusty again when the lever
is pulled.
Any ideas?

thanks,
GE


The valve is doing it's job, it is releasing pressure or opening
due to temperature. I would say that at 60 PSI, it is likely due to
the pressure. Back that pressure back to 40-50 and that should take
care of it.

But that doesn't answer why the valve all of a
sudden started leaking. Besides 60PSI is way
below what a T&P valve is set for. Could be
someone installed a back flow preventer, at the
street or somewhere in the house line. Otherwise
the original valve went bad.

The real point is that one should never trip the
TP valve with pressure in the line because it may
not seat properly. The best bet as a first step
with the new valve is to nearly close the supply
valve to the hot water tank, open the T&P valve to
let water flow for a bit to clean out any rust,
close the supply valve tight, and then let the T&P
valve snap shut. Might want open and let the T&P
snap shut a couple of times. Then turn then open
the water supply valve. Of course the new valve
may be bad. But if doing what I said doesn't
solve the problem, look for a change in the water
supply line, house or at the street.


Do you have a check valve somewhere?


Nope. Fortunately, there is no check valve or
backflow preventer in my house or at the meter.
So I never need to worry about pressure build up,
it will just be whatever the city line is. Also,
I have never lived where there was a pressure
regulator. Might need too though since a friend
of mine said they and a neighbor or two recently
had the TP start leaking and so they checked the
pressure. It was 190. They called the water
company which denied any increase in pressure, but
he knows they did increase the pressure to push
water over a small hill to another subdivision.
Fortunately for me that isn't part of my city
water system.

I didn't mean to address the problem of a check
valve/backflow preventer and the possible need for
an expansion tank since others had. Just that the
OP needed to revue whatever may have been done
recently to the system as part of his analysis of
the problem. And that pressure valves sometimes
won't seat properly when under pressure.

I had that exact problem a few months ago. The water heater worked fine for
years and then suddenly began to leak from the pressure relief valve. The
leak would generally occur just after a heavy use of hot water. I figured
the pressure relief valve had become defective so I replaced it. The new
valve did exactly the same thing. So, I purchased an expansion tank,
installed it and the leaking at the valve stopped and hasn't occurred since.
When I installed the expansion tank, I also installed a pressure gauge to
monitor the water pressure. It was initially at about 60 psi, so I reduced
it at the pressure regulator valve to about 50 psi.

I strongly suspect that the water company had increased the pressure or had
installed a check valve in the line (possibly when changing the water
meter). I also suspect that water companies are strongly opposed to any
water being forced back into the main lines because of possible
contamination problems and so they are prone to installing backflow
preventors. For all I know, water meters have backflow presentors built in
now days.

Harry

wrote in message
oups.com...
Since last week every time someone takes a bath the T&P valve
discharges a small amount of water. When this happens, the water looks
a bit rusty. If I pull lever on the valve, the rusty water will drain
and for a day or so there'll be no more leaks, then it starts again. I
checked the water line pressure and it's at 60 PSI.

I've replaced the valve and flushed the tank for about 30 min - two
days later the leak is back and water is rusty again when the lever is
pulled.
Any ideas?

thanks,
GE

We are VEDO Valve Manufacturing Co.,Ltd in China. We supply vales with
good quality and good price. We are a professional manufacturer and
exporter of various valves. We provide not only high quality products
but also prompt delivery. We look forward to the cooperation with you
and surely will be your reliable and trusty business partners in China.
Our main products: Forged Steel Ball Valve, Gate Valve, Check Valve
and Globe Valve. Please contact us to know details.
We look forward to your early reply.
Yours
faithfully .

Edison Xia
Tel: 86- 577-67359999
Fax: 86-577-67993811
Url:http://www.vedo.cn

We are VEDO Valve Manufacturing Co.,Ltd in China. We supply vales with
good quality and good price. We are a professional manufacturer and
exporter of various valves. We provide not only high quality products
but also prompt delivery. We look forward to the cooperation with you
and surely will be your reliable and trusty business partners in China.
Our main products: Forged Steel Ball Valve, Gate Valve, Check Valve
and Globe Valve. Please contact us to know details.
We look forward to your early reply.
Yours
faithfully .

Edison Xia
Tel: 86- 577-67359999
Fax: 86-577-67993811
Url:http://www.vedo.cn

Thanks for the reply. What I am trying to figure out is why when I
open the T&P valve I get this rusty looking water for a few seconds and
not when a faucet is opened. I am going to replace the anode rod to
see if that helps next.

GE
HarryS wrote:
I had that exact problem a few months ago. The water heater worked fine for
years and then suddenly began to leak from the pressure relief valve. The
leak would generally occur just after a heavy use of hot water. I figured
the pressure relief valve had become defective so I replaced it. The new
valve did exactly the same thing. So, I purchased an expansion tank,
installed it and the leaking at the valve stopped and hasn't occurred since.
When I installed the expansion tank, I also installed a pressure gauge to
monitor the water pressure. It was initially at about 60 psi, so I reduced
it at the pressure regulator valve to about 50 psi.

I strongly suspect that the water company had increased the pressure or had
installed a check valve in the line (possibly when changing the water
meter). I also suspect that water companies are strongly opposed to any
water being forced back into the main lines because of possible
contamination problems and so they are prone to installing backflow
preventors. For all I know, water meters have backflow presentors built in
now days.

Harry

wrote in message
oups.com...
Since last week every time someone takes a bath the T&P valve
discharges a small amount of water. When this happens, the water looks
a bit rusty. If I pull lever on the valve, the rusty water will drain
and for a day or so there'll be no more leaks, then it starts again. I
checked the water line pressure and it's at 60 PSI.

I've replaced the valve and flushed the tank for about 30 min - two
days later the leak is back and water is rusty again when the lever is
pulled.
Any ideas?

thanks,
GE

"egou" wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks for the reply. What I am trying to figure out is why when I
open the T&P valve I get this rusty looking water for a few seconds and
not when a faucet is opened. I am going to replace the anode rod to
see if that helps next.

GE
The rusty water is probably caused by rusting of the spring and other parts
in the outlet of the valve. Depending on how the outlet is pointed, some
amount of water likely stays in the outlet where the spring is located.
Opening of T&P valves is not generally recommended for this reason.
Don Young