Hi all, first, just want to say that I did some google research and
found this site (very useful):

http://www.factsfacts.com/MyHomeRepa...sureRelief.htm

For my problem, I posted some photos he
http://www.picturetrail.com/waterheater

Basically, as you could see in the photo (especially the 1st photo),
you could see the water (the water stain) coming out of the plumber's
putty thingy, so I'm not sure whether I could just caulk or use
plumber's putty to just fill it?? Is this something that I could fix or
DIY by myself? Or should I really consult with a plumber or
professional?? According to the article above, I might have a defective
valve, but it also could be high tank pressure (our neighborhood just
had some seismic upgrade so it could be related).. How could I tell
whether it's the valve problem or the high tank pressure problem?
Thanks!

as your quoted article suggests, buy a water pressure gauge.
and buy a T&P valve.
you may need a tank if the tank is still leaking after you replace its
relief valve.
replace the valve at 9am mon-thurs and have plenty of time to order a
home depot replacement water heater if needed before NOON when their
price is lowest.
more at:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com

wrote:
Hi all, first, just want to say that I did some google research and
found this site (very useful):

http://www.factsfacts.com/MyHomeRepa...sureRelief.htm

For my problem, I posted some photos he
http://www.picturetrail.com/waterheater

Basically, as you could see in the photo (especially the 1st photo),
you could see the water (the water stain) coming out of the plumber's
putty thingy, so I'm not sure whether I could just caulk or use
plumber's putty to just fill it?? Is this something that I could fix or
DIY by myself? Or should I really consult with a plumber or
professional?? According to the article above, I might have a defective
valve, but it also could be high tank pressure (our neighborhood just
had some seismic upgrade so it could be related).. How could I tell
whether it's the valve problem or the high tank pressure problem?
Thanks!



Five Possibilities:

1) Relief valve is bad, Replace valve

2) Leak is at threaded connection. Shut off water, remove relief
valve, put on new pipe dope and/or teflon tape (NOT putty or silicone)
and screw valve back into tank.

3) Pressure is getting too high in tank. Use pressure gauge to
monitor water pressure in house. Get a gauge that screws onto a hose
bib. Water pressure should be the same all over the house, saves on
making a permanent installation of gauge. If pressure is the problem,
you need a pressure reducing valve or a water heater expansion tank,
depending on the cause. DO NOT put the gauge on the drain valve at the
bottom of the tank. They are rarely good for more than one use without
leaking.

4) Temperature is too high. It is a Temperature AND Pressure Relief
Valve (T&P). If the water gets too hot, it will release. Then you
will need to turn yjr thermostat down or replace the thermostat.

5) Tank is leaking. Replace tank.

From your pictures, it looks like #2 or #5 to me.

Hope this helps.

Stretch

Is tank over 6 years old? REPLACE TANK! Tank appears to be leaking at
commection where its threaded into tank. once a tank starts leaking at
a connection even fixing this leak will ONLY mean more leaks really
soon.

so why waste the $ of the valve and work just to have more leaks next
week?

wrote:
Is tank over 6 years old? REPLACE TANK! Tank appears to be leaking at
commection where its threaded into tank. once a tank starts leaking at
a connection even fixing this leak will ONLY mean more leaks really
soon.

so why waste the $ of the valve and work just to have more leaks next
week?

That brings up a question I've been wondering about for years. Any
boater out there knows about galvanic corrosion and the need to keep
zincs on various external parts constantly under water, as we used to do
with our outdrive. I know these heaters have corrodable (zinc?) tubes in
them to allow preferential corrosion to protect the rest of the tank.
I've thought about replacing ours several years ago, but, too late, it
pretty much wouldn't succumb to the wrench and I was fearful of applying
too much force so quit. As the tank's older than 10 years and presumably
will need replacing in the near future, my question. Have any of you
folks replaced the anode in your tank, and comments on whether you feel
that lengthened the tank's life? I guess the answer would have to be
somewhat subjective, but maybe there's some info. someplace on the 'Net
to indicate whether it'd be worthwhile to give a look see.

I have never tried figuring there was a greater risk of damaging the
tank or causing a new leak messing with it. I quit raining them too for
much the same reason never got anything out and had troubles with leaky
drain valves.

tanks last at least 10 years on average, for a 350 buck tank that $35 a
year, a minor cost for peace of mind. I tend to buy longer guaranteed
tanks for less hassle.

I am 49 years old and wonder how many more tanks will need replacing in
my lifetime?

wrote in message
oups.com...
I have never tried figuring there was a greater risk of damaging the
tank or causing a new leak messing with it. I quit raining them too for
much the same reason never got anything out and had troubles with leaky
drain valves.

tanks last at least 10 years on average, for a 350 buck tank that $35 a
year, a minor cost for peace of mind. I tend to buy longer guaranteed
tanks for less hassle.

I am 49 years old and wonder how many more tanks will need replacing in
my lifetime?

Third tank this house in 35+ years, (40 US gal size) in Canada.
First few years on well water with maximum pump pressure around 40 lbs/sq
in.
Remaining 30 years or so on municipal mains water; have never measured
pressure but it appears higher, possibly around 50 to 60 lbs! No problems;
although next time I'll probably make it so the reconnections of the half
inch copper pipes are a little more flexible to cope with slight dimensional
differences the spacing/location of tank connections. Also I must make the
'blow off' pipe of the pressure relief valve, which is presently a hose led
to a floor drain, a little more permanent.
A note: About heating elements! After years of saving the 'old fashioned'
square headed elements from scrapped tanks (usually the 3500 watt size) I
threw them out, because all 'new' tanks were then using those newer either
threaded in, or at least round elements.
Then, last tank I bought some 5 years ago was US made and again uses the
square elements!
So which is the more common square or round? Having said that I've probably
only had to replace say three elements in our three homes during the last 50
years!
Also someone told me that it was possible to 'convert' from one type of
element to the other; but never had to entertain that idea? And yes those
plastic drain valves are a freaking nuisance

Thanks for the Web site link, but I'm confused when you said "have
plenty of time to order a
home depot replacement water heater if needed before NOON when their
price is lowest"... Does Home Depot has special promotion for water
heater if you purchase by noon?? I don't know they have such promotion
program...
thanks!

Stretch, thanks so much for your reply. I gave you 5 stars for your
post and thanks again for your help! :-)

Thanks for reminding me that I should NOT use putty or silicone, I
almost did that until I read the site I posted
(http://www.factsfacts.com/MyHomeRepa...sureRelief.htm). I don't
think this is a DIY project so we will be hiring a professional to take
a look at the problem, by the way, could you maybe explain a little bit
more (if you have time) about the pipe dope and/or teflon tape ?? I
don't know anything about these two materials (in terms of fixing the
threaded connection). As we just purchased this water heater like 2-3
years ago, so I don't think the tank is leaking.. so it could be #2
(Leak is at threaded connection).. I will post back after the
profesional take a look..

Thanks again for everyone's help, I really appreciate that!

electric tanks tend to last much longer than gas ones probably because
gas tanks get hammered by thermal stress a lot

I just checked the anode in my gas water heater which is now about 6
years old. The rod was about 1/3 gone. I put it back in and will
check again in about 2 years. I think it's very logical that a $35
rod replacement could prolong the life of the tank more than enough to
justify the cost. As a previous poster pointed out, sacraficial anodes
are used routinely on boats and work. The tank manufacturers
obviously believe it too, as they put them in to begin with. If you
have a tank in conditions where the anode errodes faster, then
replacing it makes sense to me.