In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank you in
advance for all replies.
--
For some strange reason those of us who are owned by cats
ascribe motives to the cat that are more benign than the
cat's real motives. For example if the cat gets in the
way when we are trying to do something we say it is "helping".

"Daniel Prince" wrote in message
...
In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank you in
advance for all replies.
--

Go to an auto supply and get an aerosol can of white lithium grease. Drown
the insides of the lock with it.

Daniel Prince wrote:
In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank you in
advance for all replies.

According to the "master's"

http://www.masterlock.com/general/fa...dservice.shtml

I alway

wrote in message
ups.com...

Daniel Prince wrote:
In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor
padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank
you in
advance for all replies.

According to the "master's"

http://www.masterlock.com/general/fa...dservice.shtml

"6. We suggest that you do not use WD40® on your lock because
dust particles may clog the pins when WD40® is sprayed inside the
lock."

I guess WD40® must be the only thing that carries dust
particles, eh? That's a new one!

I always get a kick out of the WD-40 myths and experts around the
world. It's a lubricant, it's not a lubricant, it collects drit
& grime, it evaporates and disappears, it ... well, you get the
ideaG.


wrote in message
ups.com...

Daniel Prince wrote:
In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor
padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank
you in
advance for all replies.

According to the "master's"

http://www.masterlock.com/general/fa...dservice.shtml

wrote:
Daniel Prince wrote:

In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank you in
advance for all replies.


According to the "master's"

http://www.masterlock.com/general/fa...dservice.shtml

Strange recommendations from masterlock on not
using graphite for the keyway. Maybe because most
graphite stuff includes oil. I don't see how
powdered graphite, unless they make a very coarse
grind, could make the pins stick. And, I know for
a fact, having used it on locks many times, that
using WD 40 to flush out the dirt works well.

Daniel Prince wrote:
In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank you in
advance for all replies.

There are two totally different parts of a lock. One is the tumbler
(the part where you put the key). That you don't want to lube as much as
you want to keep it clean. A zero residue cleaner is best. I like to use a
little graphic when done. NOTE: WD40 is an oil and is not zero residue. It
will leave a thin film of oil that will in time collect dirt as will any
oil. There is a product call lock ease that works well. I will also
suggest that the Teflon based lubes often work well.

The other part of the lock is the part the actually holds the thing
shut. That also needs to be kept clean, but it also often needs some
additional protection from the elements. For that I would agree with most
of the suggestions make. A lithium based product may be best. It will
likely need cleaning and re-lubrication often where you live.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

Mys Terry wrote in
:

On 6 Mar 2006 17:13:26 -0800, wrote:


Daniel Prince wrote:
In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank you in
advance for all replies.

According to the "master's"

http://www.masterlock.com/general/fa...dservice.shtml

I have a few padlocks on my sailboat, which is in a salt water
environment. I buy the rubber covered padlocks that include a cap over
the keyhole. I force marine grease (not the same as automotive grease)
into the keyhole and the holes for the shackle. They last a few years
this way. I have never had a problem opening locks treated in this
manner, even when the temps are in the 20's.




dry graphite works well in all temps.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

dry graphite works well in all temps.

I had understood that graphite was sufficiently hygroscopic
to promote rust, long term.

Joseph Meehan wrote:
Daniel Prince wrote:
In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank you in
advance for all replies.

There are two totally different parts of a lock. One is the tumbler
(the part where you put the key). That you don't want to lube as much as
you want to keep it clean. A zero residue cleaner is best. I like to use a
little graphic when done. NOTE: WD40 is an oil and is not zero residue. It
will leave a thin film of oil that will in time collect dirt as will any
oil. There is a product call lock ease that works well. I will also
suggest that the Teflon based lubes often work well.

The other part of the lock is the part the actually holds the thing
shut. That also needs to be kept clean, but it also often needs some
additional protection from the elements. For that I would agree with most
of the suggestions make. A lithium based product may be best. It will
likely need cleaning and re-lubrication often where you live.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

Well, yet another opinion:
I would think even 30 weight oil, let alone various greases, would
promote sticking of the teeny weeny internals of the lock. That's why
they never recommend 3 in 1 oil. WD40 is thin to begin with, and at
least evaporates leaving no gunk behind, but by the same token long
term corrosion protection might need to be reapplied now and then.

So you want something light/thin, that evaporates without leaving a
residue, but not too quickly. Maybe dunk it in kerosene? Silicone oil?

z wrote:
Joseph Meehan wrote:

There are two totally different parts of a lock. One is the
tumbler (the part where you put the key). That you don't want to
lube as much as you want to keep it clean. A zero residue cleaner
is best. I like to use a little graphic when done. NOTE: WD40 is
an oil and is not zero residue. It will leave a thin film of oil
that will in time collect dirt as will any oil. There is a product
call lock ease that works well. I will also suggest that the
Teflon based lubes often work well.

The other part of the lock is the part the actually holds the
thing shut. That also needs to be kept clean, but it also often
needs some additional protection from the elements. For that I
would agree with most of the suggestions make. A lithium based
product may be best. It will likely need cleaning and
re-lubrication often where you live.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

Well, yet another opinion:
I would think even 30 weight oil, let alone various greases, would
promote sticking of the teeny weeny internals of the lock. That's why
they never recommend 3 in 1 oil. WD40 is thin to begin with, and at
least evaporates leaving no gunk behind,

If that were only so. It does leave an oil film behind. Most of it
does evaporate, but enough remains to cause problems.

but by the same token long
term corrosion protection might need to be reapplied now and then.

If WD-40 did not leave anything behind it would leave no corrosion
protection at all.


So you want something light/thin, that evaporates without leaving a
residue, but not too quickly. Maybe dunk it in kerosene? Silicone oil?

That is not what I asked for. I suggested that you might want to use a
"zero residue cleaner" anything that is lube is not going to be zero
residue. Graphite is not a cleaner, but it is a good lube for some uses.
It is a solid.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

"Doug Kanter" wrote in message
...

"Daniel Prince" wrote in message
...
In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank you in
advance for all replies.
--

Go to an auto supply and get an aerosol can of white lithium grease. Drown
the insides of the lock with it.



That has go to be the worst suggestion yet.

Any kind of grease will attract all kinds of stuff (sand, grit, etc)and will
gum up the lock. The best suggestion is to use graphite for the keyway.

"HeatMan" wrote in message
news

"Doug Kanter" wrote in message
...

"Daniel Prince" wrote in message
...
In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank you in
advance for all replies.
--

Go to an auto supply and get an aerosol can of white lithium grease.
Drown
the insides of the lock with it.



That has go to be the worst suggestion yet.

Any kind of grease will attract all kinds of stuff (sand, grit, etc)and
will
gum up the lock. The best suggestion is to use graphite for the keyway.



You'd think, but I use the stuff on my boat & trailer, not just on various
moving parts, but also on various padlocks, which attract plenty of filth.
Everything's working as smooth as silk. And, I just worked the padlocks last
week, when it was 10 degrees outside. Smooth.

Salt's another issue - I have no idea how this stuff holds up.

"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...
z wrote:
Joseph Meehan wrote:

There are two totally different parts of a lock. One is the
tumbler (the part where you put the key). That you don't want to
lube as much as you want to keep it clean. A zero residue cleaner
is best. I like to use a little graphic when done. NOTE: WD40 is
an oil and is not zero residue. It will leave a thin film of oil
that will in time collect dirt as will any oil. There is a product
call lock ease that works well. I will also suggest that the
Teflon based lubes often work well.

The other part of the lock is the part the actually holds the
thing shut. That also needs to be kept clean, but it also often
needs some additional protection from the elements. For that I
would agree with most of the suggestions make. A lithium based
product may be best. It will likely need cleaning and
re-lubrication often where you live.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

Well, yet another opinion:
I would think even 30 weight oil, let alone various greases, would
promote sticking of the teeny weeny internals of the lock. That's why
they never recommend 3 in 1 oil. WD40 is thin to begin with, and at
least evaporates leaving no gunk behind,

If that were only so. It does leave an oil film behind. Most of it
does evaporate, but enough remains to cause problems.

but by the same token long
term corrosion protection might need to be reapplied now and then.

If WD-40 did not leave anything behind it would leave no corrosion
protection at all.


So you want something light/thin, that evaporates without leaving a
residue, but not too quickly. Maybe dunk it in kerosene? Silicone oil?

That is not what I asked for. I suggested that you might want to use
a
"zero residue cleaner" anything that is lube is not going to be zero
residue. Graphite is not a cleaner, but it is a good lube for some uses.
It is a solid.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

I've had a combination outdoor lock on my shed for 17 years. I use 3in1 oil
on it every spring and it still works as good as it did when new. I have a
flap (a piece of old conveyor belt) attached above it to cover it and
shelter it from the elements.

Mys Terry wrote in
:

On 7 Mar 2006 12:23:40 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

Mys Terry wrote in
m:

On 6 Mar 2006 17:13:26 -0800, wrote:


Daniel Prince wrote:
In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank you in
advance for all replies.

According to the "master's"

http://www.masterlock.com/general/fa...dservice.shtml

I have a few padlocks on my sailboat, which is in a salt water
environment. I buy the rubber covered padlocks that include a cap over
the keyhole. I force marine grease (not the same as automotive grease)
into the keyhole and the holes for the shackle. They last a few years
this way. I have never had a problem opening locks treated in this
manner, even when the temps are in the 20's.




dry graphite works well in all temps.

But doesn't do squat to protect a padlock from salt laden moist air.




He was looking for a LUBRICANT,not a corrosion protectant.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

jig-a-loo

http://www.jigaloo.com/english/welcome.htm

"tommy g" wrote in message
ink.net...

"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...
z wrote:
Joseph Meehan wrote:

There are two totally different parts of a lock. One is the
tumbler (the part where you put the key). That you don't want to
lube as much as you want to keep it clean. A zero residue cleaner
is best. I like to use a little graphic when done. NOTE: WD40 is
an oil and is not zero residue. It will leave a thin film of oil
that will in time collect dirt as will any oil. There is a product
call lock ease that works well. I will also suggest that the
Teflon based lubes often work well.

The other part of the lock is the part the actually holds the
thing shut. That also needs to be kept clean, but it also often
needs some additional protection from the elements. For that I
would agree with most of the suggestions make. A lithium based
product may be best. It will likely need cleaning and
re-lubrication often where you live.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

Well, yet another opinion:
I would think even 30 weight oil, let alone various greases, would
promote sticking of the teeny weeny internals of the lock. That's why
they never recommend 3 in 1 oil. WD40 is thin to begin with, and at
least evaporates leaving no gunk behind,

If that were only so. It does leave an oil film behind. Most of it
does evaporate, but enough remains to cause problems.

but by the same token long
term corrosion protection might need to be reapplied now and then.

If WD-40 did not leave anything behind it would leave no corrosion
protection at all.


So you want something light/thin, that evaporates without leaving a
residue, but not too quickly. Maybe dunk it in kerosene? Silicone oil?

That is not what I asked for. I suggested that you might want to use
a
"zero residue cleaner" anything that is lube is not going to be zero
residue. Graphite is not a cleaner, but it is a good lube for some uses.
It is a solid.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

I've had a combination outdoor lock on my shed for 17 years. I use 3in1
oil
on it every spring and it still works as good as it did when new. I have a
flap (a piece of old conveyor belt) attached above it to cover it and
shelter it from the elements.

z wrote

WD40 is thin to begin with, and at least evaporates leaving no
gunk behind,
So you want something light/thin, that evaporates without leaving
a residue, but not too quickly. Maybe dunk it in kerosene?

Despite the manufacturers claims, WD40 is for the most part
just kerosene with perfume added.

That being said, I'd suggest WD40 for padlocks. Any lubricant
will eventually trap dust and other particles but at least with a
spray can of WD40, you can blast any crud out of the padlock.

If the OP is really concerned about crud getting into the padlock,
get one of those plastic covered padlocks with a flap that snaps
over the keyhole; http://tinyurl.com/kqalr

"Ed Stasiak" wrote in message
ups.com...
z wrote

WD40 is thin to begin with, and at least evaporates leaving no
gunk behind,
So you want something light/thin, that evaporates without leaving
a residue, but not too quickly. Maybe dunk it in kerosene?

Despite the manufacturers claims, WD40 is for the most part
just kerosene with perfume added.

That being said, I'd suggest WD40 for padlocks. Any lubricant
will eventually trap dust and other particles but at least with a
spray can of WD40, you can blast any crud out of the padlock.

If the OP is really concerned about crud getting into the padlock,
get one of those plastic covered padlocks with a flap that snaps
over the keyhole; http://tinyurl.com/kqalr

Agree with wd-40 for freeing up crud-frozen padlocks, followed with
silicone or bicycle lube or graphite for ongoing lubrication. But the best
cure is really to protect the lock from the weather, either with one of
those 'lock condom' things, or a weatherproof lock. If it is just on a shed
or something, a flap of rubber or something over it as a rain hood will work
wonders.

aem sends...

Looks like good advice. Near the ocean in a high moisture environment, I'd
be thinking 10w30 motor oil. Might need to be rinsed out with ether or brake
cleaner now and again. That, and car door locks are the only locks I use
motor oil.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
..

wrote in message
ups.com...

Daniel Prince wrote:
In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank you in
advance for all replies.

According to the "master's"

http://www.masterlock.com/general/fa...dservice.shtml

In article ,
Mys Terry wrote:

Actually, for some situations, it's the only thing that works! The
idea is to FILL the lock with grease so nothing else can get in. I
used to have to cut off (the key no longer would open them) padlocks
on my boat and replace them every season. I started packing them with
marine winch grease, and have not had to replace a single one in
several years now. The grease makes sure that all the sand, grit and
salt water stay OUTSIDE the lock.

Try STP in your locks; you will be pleasantly surprised.

--
Free men own guns, slaves don't
www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/

Does the lithium grease work better than silicone to limit room for water and moisture to enter the lock?

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ock-95864-.htm

Knockaround wrote

Does the lithium grease work better than silicone to limit room for water
and moisture to enter the lock?

Graphite works much better than both because it doesnt attract dirt.

--
For full context, visit
https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ock-95864-.htm

On Sun, 7 Mar 2021 16:54:24 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:



Does the lithium grease work better than silicone to limit room for water
and moisture to enter the lock?

Graphite works much better than both because it doesn¢t attract dirt.

It all depends on the circumstances, you clinically insane,
auto-contradicting, retarded know-it-all!

--
Norman Wells addressing trolling senile Rodent:
"Ah, the voice of scum speaks."
MID:

On 3/7/2021 12:54 AM, Rod Speed wrote:
Knockaround wrote

Does the lithium grease work better than silicone to limit room for
water and moisture to enter the lock?

Graphite works much better than both because it doesnt attract dirt.

--
For full context, visit
https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ock-95864-.htm



This.

On Tuesday, March 7, 2006 at 6:24:39 PM UTC-5, Jim Yanik wrote:
Mys Terry wrote in
:
On 7 Mar 2006 12:23:40 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

Mys Terry wrote in
:

On 6 Mar 2006 17:13:26 -0800, wrote:


Daniel Prince wrote:
In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank you in
advance for all replies.

According to the "master's"

http://www.masterlock.com/general/fa...dservice.shtml

I have a few padlocks on my sailboat, which is in a salt water
environment. I buy the rubber covered padlocks that include a cap over
the keyhole. I force marine grease (not the same as automotive grease)
into the keyhole and the holes for the shackle. They last a few years
this way. I have never had a problem opening locks treated in this
manner, even when the temps are in the 20's.




dry graphite works well in all temps.

But doesn't do squat to protect a padlock from salt laden moist air.



He was looking for a LUBRICANT,not a corrosion protectant.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
In my experience, graphite in a humid environment is a disaster. Yes, it lubricates well when dry, but then it becomes mud and then cakes and will absolutely jam a lock.

My preference would be STP, but just a tiny bit on a toothpick.

On Mon, 8 Mar 2021 05:54:44 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote:

In my experience, graphite in a humid environment is a disaster. Yes, it lubricates well when dry, but then it becomes mud and then cakes and will absolutely jam a lock.


Yup. When I first moved in here, the front door latch and lock were
both very stiff to operate. I sprayed WD-40, and streams of black gook
ran out of every place possible. I kept going until the black stopped
showing. Everything works much better now.

Look up using pure lanolin as a lubricant-protectant.


-dan z-



--
Protect your civil rights!
Let the politicians know how you feel.
Join or donate to the NRA today!
http://membership.nrahq.org/default....ignid=XR014887
(use cut and paste to your browser if necessary)

Gun control is like trying to reduce drunk driving by making it tougher for sober people to own cars.

On Monday, March 6, 2006 at 6:03:42 PM UTC-5, Daniel Prince wrote:
In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank you in
advance for all replies.
--
For some strange reason those of us who are owned by cats
ascribe motives to the cat that are more benign than the
cat's real motives. For example if the cat gets in the
way when we are trying to do something we say it is "helping".

Naval jelly is probably the best to rub the lock over in.

"TimR" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, March 7, 2006 at 6:24:39 PM UTC-5, Jim Yanik wrote:
Mys Terry wrote in
:
On 7 Mar 2006 12:23:40 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

Mys Terry wrote in
:

On 6 Mar 2006 17:13:26 -0800, wrote:


Daniel Prince wrote:
In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank you in
advance for all replies.

According to the "master's"

http://www.masterlock.com/general/fa...dservice.shtml

I have a few padlocks on my sailboat, which is in a salt water
environment. I buy the rubber covered padlocks that include a cap
over
the keyhole. I force marine grease (not the same as automotive
grease)
into the keyhole and the holes for the shackle. They last a few years
this way. I have never had a problem opening locks treated in this
manner, even when the temps are in the 20's.




dry graphite works well in all temps.

But doesn't do squat to protect a padlock from salt laden moist air.



He was looking for a LUBRICANT,not a corrosion protectant.

In my experience, graphite in a humid environment is a disaster.

Thats not mine.

Yes, it lubricates well when dry, but then it becomes
mud and then cakes and will absolutely jam a lock.

Never seen anything like that happen.

My preference would be STP, but just a tiny bit on a toothpick.

Mine is graphite because it doesnt trap dirt.

On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 05:40:26 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


In my experience, graphite in a humid environment is a disaster.

That¢s not mine.

Of COURSE not, you abnormal auto-contradicting senile cretin!

Yes, it lubricates well when dry, but then it becomes
mud and then cakes and will absolutely jam a lock.

Never seen anything like that happen.

Of COURSE not, you abnormal auto-contradicting senile pest!

My preference would be STP, but just a tiny bit on a toothpick.

Mine is graphite because it doesn¢t trap dirt.

It doesn't dissolve dirt and gooey stuff, senile asshole!

--
Norman Wells addressing trolling senile Rodent:
"Ah, the voice of scum speaks."
MID:

On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 05:40:26 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



"TimR" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, March 7, 2006 at 6:24:39 PM UTC-5, Jim Yanik wrote:
Mys Terry wrote in
:
On 7 Mar 2006 12:23:40 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

Mys Terry wrote in
:

On 6 Mar 2006 17:13:26 -0800, wrote:


Daniel Prince wrote:
In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank you in
advance for all replies.

According to the "master's"

http://www.masterlock.com/general/fa...dservice.shtml

I have a few padlocks on my sailboat, which is in a salt water
environment. I buy the rubber covered padlocks that include a cap
over
the keyhole. I force marine grease (not the same as automotive
grease)
into the keyhole and the holes for the shackle. They last a few years
this way. I have never had a problem opening locks treated in this
manner, even when the temps are in the 20's.




dry graphite works well in all temps.

But doesn't do squat to protect a padlock from salt laden moist air.



He was looking for a LUBRICANT,not a corrosion protectant.

In my experience, graphite in a humid environment is a disaster.

Thats not mine.

Yes, it lubricates well when dry, but then it becomes
mud and then cakes and will absolutely jam a lock.

Never seen anything like that happen.

My preference would be STP, but just a tiny bit on a toothpick.

Mine is graphite because it doesnt trap dirt.

I use graphite in an alcohol carrier on the lock on the boat ramp
chain that gets dipped in salt water occasionally and rain may be the
best thing that happens to it.
It seems to just keep going.
This isn't your ten buck Master Lock tho. I think we pay about $150
for them.

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 05:40:26 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



"TimR" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, March 7, 2006 at 6:24:39 PM UTC-5, Jim Yanik wrote:
Mys Terry wrote in
:
On 7 Mar 2006 12:23:40 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

Mys Terry wrote in
:

On 6 Mar 2006 17:13:26 -0800, wrote:


Daniel Prince wrote:
In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor
padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank you
in
advance for all replies.

According to the "master's"

http://www.masterlock.com/general/fa...dservice.shtml

I have a few padlocks on my sailboat, which is in a salt water
environment. I buy the rubber covered padlocks that include a cap
over
the keyhole. I force marine grease (not the same as automotive
grease)
into the keyhole and the holes for the shackle. They last a few
years
this way. I have never had a problem opening locks treated in this
manner, even when the temps are in the 20's.




dry graphite works well in all temps.

But doesn't do squat to protect a padlock from salt laden moist air.



He was looking for a LUBRICANT,not a corrosion protectant.

In my experience, graphite in a humid environment is a disaster.

Thats not mine.

Yes, it lubricates well when dry, but then it becomes
mud and then cakes and will absolutely jam a lock.

Never seen anything like that happen.

My preference would be STP, but just a tiny bit on a toothpick.

Mine is graphite because it doesnt trap dirt.

I use graphite in an alcohol carrier on the lock on the boat
ramp chain that gets dipped in salt water occasionally and
rain may be the best thing that happens to it.
It seems to just keep going.

I use graphite in a little plastic squeeze bottle thing
with a spout about 2" long which makes it very easy
to squirt into locks.

This isn't your ten buck Master Lock tho.
I think we pay about $150 for them.

Mine is a big brass padlock I got from a garage/yard sale
that I use on the heavy chain to chain the trailer to the house.
No point in an expensive padlock given that its easy to use a
cordless angle grinder on the chain or padlock hasp.

I have also used it on the front door lock and my neighbour has borrowed
it to use on theirs. Both of those only used once, fine ever since.

On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 16:53:18 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 05:40:26 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



"TimR" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, March 7, 2006 at 6:24:39 PM UTC-5, Jim Yanik wrote:
Mys Terry wrote in
:
On 7 Mar 2006 12:23:40 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

Mys Terry wrote in
:

On 6 Mar 2006 17:13:26 -0800, wrote:


Daniel Prince wrote:
In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor
padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank you
in
advance for all replies.

According to the "master's"

http://www.masterlock.com/general/fa...dservice.shtml

I have a few padlocks on my sailboat, which is in a salt water
environment. I buy the rubber covered padlocks that include a cap
over
the keyhole. I force marine grease (not the same as automotive
grease)
into the keyhole and the holes for the shackle. They last a few
years
this way. I have never had a problem opening locks treated in this
manner, even when the temps are in the 20's.




dry graphite works well in all temps.

But doesn't do squat to protect a padlock from salt laden moist air.



He was looking for a LUBRICANT,not a corrosion protectant.

In my experience, graphite in a humid environment is a disaster.

Thats not mine.

Yes, it lubricates well when dry, but then it becomes
mud and then cakes and will absolutely jam a lock.

Never seen anything like that happen.

My preference would be STP, but just a tiny bit on a toothpick.

Mine is graphite because it doesnt trap dirt.

I use graphite in an alcohol carrier on the lock on the boat
ramp chain that gets dipped in salt water occasionally and
rain may be the best thing that happens to it.
It seems to just keep going.

I use graphite in a little plastic squeeze bottle thing
with a spout about 2" long which makes it very easy
to squirt into locks.

This stuff is in a spray can with a tube that lets you really get it
in a little hole.

This isn't your ten buck Master Lock tho.
I think we pay about $150 for them.

Mine is a big brass padlock I got from a garage/yard sale
that I use on the heavy chain to chain the trailer to the house.
No point in an expensive padlock given that its easy to use a
cordless angle grinder on the chain or padlock hasp.

I have also used it on the front door lock and my neighbour has borrowed
it to use on theirs. Both of those only used once, fine ever since.

This is just expensive because you can't get keys made for it
anywhere. They are registered, signature only. This is not a regular
key. It is flat with drilled holes in the side.
(Mul T Lock NG series)

If someone cut the lock off and launched their boat, they might not
have a truck when they got back.
It gets pretty expensive retrieving them from the impound lot.

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 16:53:18 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



wrote in message
. ..
On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 05:40:26 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



"TimR" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, March 7, 2006 at 6:24:39 PM UTC-5, Jim Yanik wrote:
Mys Terry wrote in
:
On 7 Mar 2006 12:23:40 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

Mys Terry wrote in
:

On 6 Mar 2006 17:13:26 -0800, wrote:


Daniel Prince wrote:
In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor
padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank
you
in
advance for all replies.

According to the "master's"

http://www.masterlock.com/general/fa...dservice.shtml

I have a few padlocks on my sailboat, which is in a salt water
environment. I buy the rubber covered padlocks that include a cap
over
the keyhole. I force marine grease (not the same as automotive
grease)
into the keyhole and the holes for the shackle. They last a few
years
this way. I have never had a problem opening locks treated in
this
manner, even when the temps are in the 20's.




dry graphite works well in all temps.

But doesn't do squat to protect a padlock from salt laden moist
air.



He was looking for a LUBRICANT,not a corrosion protectant.

In my experience, graphite in a humid environment is a disaster.

Thats not mine.

Yes, it lubricates well when dry, but then it becomes
mud and then cakes and will absolutely jam a lock.

Never seen anything like that happen.

My preference would be STP, but just a tiny bit on a toothpick.

Mine is graphite because it doesnt trap dirt.

I use graphite in an alcohol carrier on the lock on the boat
ramp chain that gets dipped in salt water occasionally and
rain may be the best thing that happens to it.
It seems to just keep going.

I use graphite in a little plastic squeeze bottle thing
with a spout about 2" long which makes it very easy
to squirt into locks.

This stuff is in a spray can with a tube that lets you really get it
in a little hole.

So is mine but you just squeeze the sides of the little plastic bottle.

This isn't your ten buck Master Lock tho.
I think we pay about $150 for them.

Mine is a big brass padlock I got from a garage/yard sale
that I use on the heavy chain to chain the trailer to the house.
No point in an expensive padlock given that its easy to use a
cordless angle grinder on the chain or padlock hasp.

I have also used it on the front door lock and my neighbour has borrowed
it to use on theirs. Both of those only used once, fine ever since.

This is just expensive because you can't get keys made for it
anywhere. They are registered, signature only. This is not a regular
key. It is flat with drilled holes in the side.
(Mul T Lock NG series)

If someone cut the lock off and launched their boat, they might not
have a truck when they got back.
It gets pretty expensive retrieving them from the impound lot.

Dont have that problem when stealing a trailer.

On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 20:25:07 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 16:53:18 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 05:40:26 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



"TimR" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, March 7, 2006 at 6:24:39 PM UTC-5, Jim Yanik wrote:
Mys Terry wrote in
:
On 7 Mar 2006 12:23:40 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

Mys Terry wrote in
:

On 6 Mar 2006 17:13:26 -0800, wrote:


Daniel Prince wrote:
In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor
padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank
you
in
advance for all replies.

According to the "master's"

http://www.masterlock.com/general/fa...dservice.shtml

I have a few padlocks on my sailboat, which is in a salt water
environment. I buy the rubber covered padlocks that include a cap
over
the keyhole. I force marine grease (not the same as automotive
grease)
into the keyhole and the holes for the shackle. They last a few
years
this way. I have never had a problem opening locks treated in
this
manner, even when the temps are in the 20's.




dry graphite works well in all temps.

But doesn't do squat to protect a padlock from salt laden moist
air.



He was looking for a LUBRICANT,not a corrosion protectant.

In my experience, graphite in a humid environment is a disaster.

Thats not mine.

Yes, it lubricates well when dry, but then it becomes
mud and then cakes and will absolutely jam a lock.

Never seen anything like that happen.

My preference would be STP, but just a tiny bit on a toothpick.

Mine is graphite because it doesnt trap dirt.

I use graphite in an alcohol carrier on the lock on the boat
ramp chain that gets dipped in salt water occasionally and
rain may be the best thing that happens to it.
It seems to just keep going.

I use graphite in a little plastic squeeze bottle thing
with a spout about 2" long which makes it very easy
to squirt into locks.

This stuff is in a spray can with a tube that lets you really get it
in a little hole.

So is mine but you just squeeze the sides of the little plastic bottle.

This isn't your ten buck Master Lock tho.
I think we pay about $150 for them.

Mine is a big brass padlock I got from a garage/yard sale
that I use on the heavy chain to chain the trailer to the house.
No point in an expensive padlock given that its easy to use a
cordless angle grinder on the chain or padlock hasp.

I have also used it on the front door lock and my neighbour has borrowed
it to use on theirs. Both of those only used once, fine ever since.

This is just expensive because you can't get keys made for it
anywhere. They are registered, signature only. This is not a regular
key. It is flat with drilled holes in the side.
(Mul T Lock NG series)

If someone cut the lock off and launched their boat, they might not
have a truck when they got back.
It gets pretty expensive retrieving them from the impound lot.

Dont have that problem when stealing a trailer.

That might get you shot here.

On 09/03/2021 15:39, wrote:
On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 20:25:07 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 16:53:18 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 05:40:26 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



"TimR" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, March 7, 2006 at 6:24:39 PM UTC-5, Jim Yanik wrote:
Mys Terry wrote in
:
On 7 Mar 2006 12:23:40 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

Mys Terry wrote in
:

On 6 Mar 2006 17:13:26 -0800, wrote:


Daniel Prince wrote:
In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor
padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank
you
in
advance for all replies.

According to the "master's"

http://www.masterlock.com/general/fa...dservice.shtml

I have a few padlocks on my sailboat, which is in a salt water
environment. I buy the rubber covered padlocks that include a cap
over
the keyhole. I force marine grease (not the same as automotive
grease)
into the keyhole and the holes for the shackle. They last a few
years
this way. I have never had a problem opening locks treated in
this
manner, even when the temps are in the 20's.




dry graphite works well in all temps.

But doesn't do squat to protect a padlock from salt laden moist
air.



He was looking for a LUBRICANT,not a corrosion protectant.

In my experience, graphite in a humid environment is a disaster.

Thats not mine.

Yes, it lubricates well when dry, but then it becomes
mud and then cakes and will absolutely jam a lock.

Never seen anything like that happen.

My preference would be STP, but just a tiny bit on a toothpick.

Mine is graphite because it doesnt trap dirt.

I use graphite in an alcohol carrier on the lock on the boat
ramp chain that gets dipped in salt water occasionally and
rain may be the best thing that happens to it.
It seems to just keep going.

I use graphite in a little plastic squeeze bottle thing
with a spout about 2" long which makes it very easy
to squirt into locks.

This stuff is in a spray can with a tube that lets you really get it
in a little hole.

So is mine but you just squeeze the sides of the little plastic bottle.

This isn't your ten buck Master Lock tho.
I think we pay about $150 for them.

Mine is a big brass padlock I got from a garage/yard sale
that I use on the heavy chain to chain the trailer to the house.
No point in an expensive padlock given that its easy to use a
cordless angle grinder on the chain or padlock hasp.

I have also used it on the front door lock and my neighbour has borrowed
it to use on theirs. Both of those only used once, fine ever since.

This is just expensive because you can't get keys made for it
anywhere. They are registered, signature only. This is not a regular
key. It is flat with drilled holes in the side.
(Mul T Lock NG series)

If someone cut the lock off and launched their boat, they might not
have a truck when they got back.
It gets pretty expensive retrieving them from the impound lot.

Dont have that problem when stealing a trailer.

That might get you shot here.

Good grief! are you legally allowed to shoot someone for stealing something?

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 20:25:07 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



wrote in message
. ..
On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 16:53:18 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



wrote in message
m...
On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 05:40:26 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



"TimR" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, March 7, 2006 at 6:24:39 PM UTC-5, Jim Yanik wrote:
Mys Terry wrote in
:
On 7 Mar 2006 12:23:40 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

Mys Terry wrote in
:

On 6 Mar 2006 17:13:26 -0800, wrote:


Daniel Prince wrote:
In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor
padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank
you
in
advance for all replies.

According to the "master's"

http://www.masterlock.com/general/fa...dservice.shtml

I have a few padlocks on my sailboat, which is in a salt water
environment. I buy the rubber covered padlocks that include a
cap
over
the keyhole. I force marine grease (not the same as automotive
grease)
into the keyhole and the holes for the shackle. They last a few
years
this way. I have never had a problem opening locks treated in
this
manner, even when the temps are in the 20's.




dry graphite works well in all temps.

But doesn't do squat to protect a padlock from salt laden moist
air.



He was looking for a LUBRICANT,not a corrosion protectant.

In my experience, graphite in a humid environment is a disaster.

Thats not mine.

Yes, it lubricates well when dry, but then it becomes
mud and then cakes and will absolutely jam a lock.

Never seen anything like that happen.

My preference would be STP, but just a tiny bit on a toothpick.

Mine is graphite because it doesnt trap dirt.

I use graphite in an alcohol carrier on the lock on the boat
ramp chain that gets dipped in salt water occasionally and
rain may be the best thing that happens to it.
It seems to just keep going.

I use graphite in a little plastic squeeze bottle thing
with a spout about 2" long which makes it very easy
to squirt into locks.

This stuff is in a spray can with a tube that lets you really get it
in a little hole.

So is mine but you just squeeze the sides of the little plastic bottle.

This isn't your ten buck Master Lock tho.
I think we pay about $150 for them.

Mine is a big brass padlock I got from a garage/yard sale
that I use on the heavy chain to chain the trailer to the house.
No point in an expensive padlock given that its easy to use a
cordless angle grinder on the chain or padlock hasp.

I have also used it on the front door lock and my neighbour has borrowed
it to use on theirs. Both of those only used once, fine ever since.

This is just expensive because you can't get keys made for it
anywhere. They are registered, signature only. This is not a regular
key. It is flat with drilled holes in the side.
(Mul T Lock NG series)

If someone cut the lock off and launched their boat, they might not
have a truck when they got back.
It gets pretty expensive retrieving them from the impound lot.

Dont have that problem when stealing a trailer.

That might get you shot here.

You previously claimed that that never happened because
it wouldnt be possible for the shooter to prove imminent
threat to its life.

"Bod" wrote in message
...
On 09/03/2021 15:39, wrote:
On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 20:25:07 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 16:53:18 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 05:40:26 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



"TimR" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, March 7, 2006 at 6:24:39 PM UTC-5, Jim Yanik wrote:
Mys Terry wrote in
:
On 7 Mar 2006 12:23:40 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

Mys Terry wrote in
:

On 6 Mar 2006 17:13:26 -0800, wrote:


Daniel Prince wrote:
In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor
padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank
you
in
advance for all replies.

According to the "master's"

http://www.masterlock.com/general/fa...dservice.shtml

I have a few padlocks on my sailboat, which is in a salt water
environment. I buy the rubber covered padlocks that include a
cap
over
the keyhole. I force marine grease (not the same as automotive
grease)
into the keyhole and the holes for the shackle. They last a few
years
this way. I have never had a problem opening locks treated in
this
manner, even when the temps are in the 20's.




dry graphite works well in all temps.

But doesn't do squat to protect a padlock from salt laden moist
air.



He was looking for a LUBRICANT,not a corrosion protectant.

In my experience, graphite in a humid environment is a disaster.

Thats not mine.

Yes, it lubricates well when dry, but then it becomes
mud and then cakes and will absolutely jam a lock.

Never seen anything like that happen.

My preference would be STP, but just a tiny bit on a toothpick.

Mine is graphite because it doesnt trap dirt.

I use graphite in an alcohol carrier on the lock on the boat
ramp chain that gets dipped in salt water occasionally and
rain may be the best thing that happens to it.
It seems to just keep going.

I use graphite in a little plastic squeeze bottle thing
with a spout about 2" long which makes it very easy
to squirt into locks.

This stuff is in a spray can with a tube that lets you really get it
in a little hole.

So is mine but you just squeeze the sides of the little plastic bottle.

This isn't your ten buck Master Lock tho.
I think we pay about $150 for them.

Mine is a big brass padlock I got from a garage/yard sale
that I use on the heavy chain to chain the trailer to the house.
No point in an expensive padlock given that its easy to use a
cordless angle grinder on the chain or padlock hasp.

I have also used it on the front door lock and my neighbour has
borrowed
it to use on theirs. Both of those only used once, fine ever since.

This is just expensive because you can't get keys made for it
anywhere. They are registered, signature only. This is not a regular
key. It is flat with drilled holes in the side.
(Mul T Lock NG series)

If someone cut the lock off and launched their boat, they might not
have a truck when they got back.
It gets pretty expensive retrieving them from the impound lot.

Dont have that problem when stealing a trailer.

That might get you shot here.

Good grief! are you legally allowed to shoot someone for stealing
something?

In some US states you are.

On Wed, 10 Mar 2021 03:38:21 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

FLUSH the trolling senile asshole's latest troll**** unread

03:38? Is it that time of the night again, you trolling senile asshole?

--
The Natural Philosopher about senile Rodent:
"Rod speed is not a Brexiteer. He is an Australian troll and arsehole."
Message-ID:

On 3/9/2021 11:38 AM, Rod Speed wrote:


wrote in message ...
On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 20:25:07 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 16:53:18 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 05:40:26 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



"TimR" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, March 7, 2006 at 6:24:39 PM UTC-5, Jim Yanik wrote:
Mys Terry wrote in
:
On 7 Mar 2006 12:23:40 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

Mys Terry wrote in
:

On 6 Mar 2006 17:13:26 -0800, wrote:


Daniel Prince wrote:
In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor
padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean. Thank
you
in
advance for all replies.

According to the "master's"

http://www.masterlock.com/general/fa...dservice.shtml

I have a few padlocks on my sailboat, which is in a salt water
environment. I buy the rubber covered padlocks that include a cap
over
the keyhole. I force marine grease (not the same as automotive
grease)
into the keyhole and the holes for the shackle. They last a few
years
this way. I have never had a problem opening locks treated in
this
manner, even when the temps are in the 20's.




dry graphite works well in all temps.

But doesn't do squat to protect a padlock from salt laden moist
air.



He was looking for a LUBRICANT,not a corrosion protectant.

In my experience, graphite in a humid environment is a disaster.

Thats not mine.

Yes, it lubricates well when dry, but then it becomes
mud and then cakes and will absolutely jam a lock.

Never seen anything like that happen.

My preference would be STP, but just a tiny bit on a toothpick.

Mine is graphite because it doesnt trap dirt.

I use graphite in an alcohol carrier on the lock on the boat
ramp chain that gets dipped in salt water occasionally and
rain may be the best thing that happens to it.
It seems to just keep going.

I use graphite in a little plastic squeeze bottle thing
with a spout about 2" long which makes it very easy
to squirt into locks.

This stuff is in a spray can with a tube that lets you really get it
in a little hole.

So is mine but you just squeeze the sides of the little plastic bottle.

This isn't your ten buck Master Lock tho.
I think we pay about $150 for them.

Mine is a big brass padlock I got from a garage/yard sale
that I use on the heavy chain to chain the trailer to the house.
No point in an expensive padlock given that its easy to use a
cordless angle grinder on the chain or padlock hasp.

I have also used it on the front door lock and my neighbour has borrowed
it to use on theirs. Both of those only used once, fine ever since.

This is just expensive because you can't get keys made for it
anywhere. They are registered, signature only. This is not a regular
key. It is flat with drilled holes in the side.
(Mul T Lock NG series)

If someone cut the lock off and launched their boat, they might not
have a truck when they got back.
It gets pretty expensive retrieving them from the impound lot.

Dont have that problem when stealing a trailer.

That might get you shot here.

You previously claimed that that never happened because
it wouldnt be possible for the shooter to prove imminent
threat to its life.


That's only relevant if you report it.Â* If you got a boat at a dock on an ocean full of sharks, you can fix the problem yourself.

"Maskless Sociopath" wrote in message
...
On 3/9/2021 11:38 AM, Rod Speed wrote:


wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 20:25:07 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 16:53:18 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 05:40:26 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



"TimR" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, March 7, 2006 at 6:24:39 PM UTC-5, Jim Yanik wrote:
Mys Terry wrote in
:
On 7 Mar 2006 12:23:40 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

Mys Terry wrote in
:

On 6 Mar 2006 17:13:26 -0800, wrote:


Daniel Prince wrote:
In your opinion, what is the best lubricant for an outdoor
padlock?
I live in a humid area about six miles from the ocean.
Thank
you
in
advance for all replies.

According to the "master's"

http://www.masterlock.com/general/fa...dservice.shtml

I have a few padlocks on my sailboat, which is in a salt
water
environment. I buy the rubber covered padlocks that include a
cap
over
the keyhole. I force marine grease (not the same as
automotive
grease)
into the keyhole and the holes for the shackle. They last a
few
years
this way. I have never had a problem opening locks treated in
this
manner, even when the temps are in the 20's.




dry graphite works well in all temps.

But doesn't do squat to protect a padlock from salt laden moist
air.



He was looking for a LUBRICANT,not a corrosion protectant.

In my experience, graphite in a humid environment is a disaster.

Thats not mine.

Yes, it lubricates well when dry, but then it becomes
mud and then cakes and will absolutely jam a lock.

Never seen anything like that happen.

My preference would be STP, but just a tiny bit on a toothpick.

Mine is graphite because it doesnt trap dirt.

I use graphite in an alcohol carrier on the lock on the boat
ramp chain that gets dipped in salt water occasionally and
rain may be the best thing that happens to it.
It seems to just keep going.

I use graphite in a little plastic squeeze bottle thing
with a spout about 2" long which makes it very easy
to squirt into locks.

This stuff is in a spray can with a tube that lets you really get it
in a little hole.

So is mine but you just squeeze the sides of the little plastic bottle.

This isn't your ten buck Master Lock tho.
I think we pay about $150 for them.

Mine is a big brass padlock I got from a garage/yard sale
that I use on the heavy chain to chain the trailer to the house.
No point in an expensive padlock given that its easy to use a
cordless angle grinder on the chain or padlock hasp.

I have also used it on the front door lock and my neighbour has
borrowed
it to use on theirs. Both of those only used once, fine ever since.

This is just expensive because you can't get keys made for it
anywhere. They are registered, signature only. This is not a regular
key. It is flat with drilled holes in the side.
(Mul T Lock NG series)

If someone cut the lock off and launched their boat, they might not
have a truck when they got back.
It gets pretty expensive retrieving them from the impound lot.

Dont have that problem when stealing a trailer.

That might get you shot here.

You previously claimed that that never happened because
it wouldnt be possible for the shooter to prove imminent
threat to its life.


That's only relevant if you report it.

Wrong, as always.

If you got a boat at a dock on an ocean full of sharks, you can fix the
problem yourself.

Nope, we just had some arsehole woman scammer
commit suicide by jumping into an ocean full of
sharks and one of her shoes with the foot still in
it washed up almost 100 miles away on a beach.