I am trying to put a small (6 1/2 foot wide, 7 foot high) sliding barn
door on my barn. I put on the common steel siding. What I am running
into is the door brackets that bolt to the side of the building are
spaced 1/2" from the wall because of the ribs in the steel. In other
words the whole track is riding on top of the ribs of the steel
siding, which in itself is no problem, but the brackets need to bolt
to something solid, not just to the ribs of the steel. I am thinking
to just put blocks of wood 1/2 or 3/4" thick under the brackets and on
top of the steel. I guess that wont be the nicest looking, but I am
more concerend about the door working properly. Anyhow, just for the
heck of it, I thought I'd ask to see if anyone has any other ideas. I
am sure this is a common problem. I should note this is a square
track with the groove in the bottom for the rollers. There are
brackets that go around the rail and hang by one lag bolt into the
wall. This is NOT the other style that seems to be more popular now,
which bolts on top of the header over the door. I can not use that
type with the roof being directly over the door. (This is a lean off
the back of the main barnm and the roof is directly ontop of that
header. The roof has a one foot overhang so I dont need all that trim
to keep rain out of the top of the door, since the overhang is
directly over the door, there will not be leaking.

I should mention that the main doors on my barn are bolted directly to
the siding, but that siding is that old fashioned ine inch corrigated
steel that only sticks out like 1/4" or so. Plus that track is the
"antique" round stuff.

Mark

"W. Wells" wrote:

Instead of putting blocks I would run a whole board across. It would be
stronger (you could put more bolts to secure it) and would look better.
....

The other alternative is to do similar to what you mention but make
filler blocks to fill the low spot and bolt through them. You don't
want to mount through the high spots as you can't torque the lag bolts
down w/o crushing the tin underneath.

In article ,
Duane Bozarth wrote:

"W. Wells" wrote:

Instead of putting blocks I would run a whole board across. It would be
stronger (you could put more bolts to secure it) and would look better.
...

The other alternative is to do similar to what you mention but make
filler blocks to fill the low spot and bolt through them. You don't
want to mount through the high spots as you can't torque the lag bolts
down w/o crushing the tin underneath.

Another alternative might be to buy the blocks made for plastic
siding. They are used for things like mounting porch lights.

Dean

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In article ,
) says...

What I am running
into is the door brackets that bolt to the side of the building are
spaced 1/2" from the wall because of the ribs in the steel. In other
words the whole track is riding on top of the ribs of the steel
siding, which in itself is no problem, but the brackets need to bolt
to something solid, not just to the ribs of the steel. I am thinking
to just put blocks of wood 1/2 or 3/4" thick under the brackets and on
top of the steel. I guess that wont be the nicest looking, but I am
more concerend about the door working properly.

If that is the common val-rib design, you will find that the rib height
is 7/8" When building a new barn, the track goes up first on a spacer
board, then the track flashing, then the siding laps over the track
flashing and continues above the track.

In a retrofit situation like yours, there is no way to get the track
flashing under the siding. The easiest way to proceed is as you have
already figured out, by blocking the hardware out until it doesn't
interfere with the siding. Don't be afraid to give the door a little
extra clearance to accommodate bolt heads and hardware. 1-1/2" blocks
would work fine. Since the door top will be open to the weather, you
will get some water on the inside of the door, but if you use galvanized
hardware and treated wood for the door frame, the door should last as
long as you do.

If you are a compulsive perfectionist, take the siding off and cut it to
accommodate the track hangers and track flashing. You will still have
to space the hangers out, but you can use a continuous board and go with
untreated wood, since the flashing will catch the moisture.

--
http://home.teleport.com/~larryc

On Sun, 20 Nov 2005 08:36:44 -0600, Duane Bozarth
wrote:

"W. Wells" wrote:

Instead of putting blocks I would run a whole board across. It would be
stronger (you could put more bolts to secure it) and would look better.
...

The other alternative is to do similar to what you mention but make
filler blocks to fill the low spot and bolt through them. You don't
want to mount through the high spots as you can't torque the lag bolts
down w/o crushing the tin underneath.

This is what I was considering.
I can see putting a board across the whole wall, but then the door
will stick out too far from the wall. I guess the blocks will be what
I do, whether wood or another material. My tin ribs stick out about
1/2". I guess standard 3/4" 1x4 (treated) will work.

Thanks

On Sun, 20 Nov 2005 06:23:56 -0600, wrote:

I am trying to put a small (6 1/2 foot wide, 7 foot high) sliding barn
door on my barn. I put on the common steel siding. What I am running
into is the door brackets that bolt to the side of the building are
spaced 1/2" from the wall because of the ribs in the steel. In other
words the whole track is riding on top of the ribs of the steel
siding, which in itself is no problem, but the brackets need to bolt
to something solid, not just to the ribs of the steel. I am thinking
to just put blocks of wood 1/2 or 3/4" thick under the brackets and on
top of the steel. I guess that wont be the nicest looking, but I am
more concerend about the door working properly. Anyhow, just for the
heck of it, I thought I'd ask to see if anyone has any other ideas. I
am sure this is a common problem. I should note this is a square
track with the groove in the bottom for the rollers. There are
brackets that go around the rail and hang by one lag bolt into the
wall. This is NOT the other style that seems to be more popular now,
which bolts on top of the header over the door. I can not use that
type with the roof being directly over the door. (This is a lean off
the back of the main barnm and the roof is directly ontop of that
header. The roof has a one foot overhang so I dont need all that trim
to keep rain out of the top of the door, since the overhang is
directly over the door, there will not be leaking.

I should mention that the main doors on my barn are bolted directly to
the siding, but that siding is that old fashioned ine inch corrigated
steel that only sticks out like 1/4" or so. Plus that track is the
"antique" round stuff.

Mark

One inch square tubing works great as a spacer. Cut pieces about 2"
long and lay in the valleys where you bolt up your track.

wrote:

On Sun, 20 Nov 2005 08:36:44 -0600, Duane Bozarth
wrote:

"W. Wells" wrote:

Instead of putting blocks I would run a whole board across. It would be
stronger (you could put more bolts to secure it) and would look better.
...

The other alternative is to do similar to what you mention but make
filler blocks to fill the low spot and bolt through them. You don't
want to mount through the high spots as you can't torque the lag bolts
down w/o crushing the tin underneath.

This is what I was considering.
I can see putting a board across the whole wall, but then the door
will stick out too far from the wall. I guess the blocks will be what
I do, whether wood or another material. My tin ribs stick out about
1/2". I guess standard 3/4" 1x4 (treated) will work.

Of course it's more of a pita to accomplish, but it would be possible to
use a metal cutting blade and a guide board and cut the tin for the
mounting plank and flash it as described by somebody else earlier...

On Sun, 20 Nov 2005 19:05:03 -0600, wrote:

On Sun, 20 Nov 2005 08:36:44 -0600, Duane Bozarth
wrote:

"W. Wells" wrote:

Instead of putting blocks I would run a whole board across. It would be
stronger (you could put more bolts to secure it) and would look better.
...

This is what I was considering.
I can see putting a board across the whole wall, but then the door
will stick out too far from the wall. I guess the blocks will be what

Run a plank down the side of the doorway too.