DIYbanter - View Single Post

In article ,
) says...

What I am running
into is the door brackets that bolt to the side of the building are
spaced 1/2" from the wall because of the ribs in the steel. In other
words the whole track is riding on top of the ribs of the steel
siding, which in itself is no problem, but the brackets need to bolt
to something solid, not just to the ribs of the steel. I am thinking
to just put blocks of wood 1/2 or 3/4" thick under the brackets and on
top of the steel. I guess that wont be the nicest looking, but I am
more concerend about the door working properly.

If that is the common val-rib design, you will find that the rib height
is 7/8" When building a new barn, the track goes up first on a spacer
board, then the track flashing, then the siding laps over the track
flashing and continues above the track.

In a retrofit situation like yours, there is no way to get the track
flashing under the siding. The easiest way to proceed is as you have
already figured out, by blocking the hardware out until it doesn't
interfere with the siding. Don't be afraid to give the door a little
extra clearance to accommodate bolt heads and hardware. 1-1/2" blocks
would work fine. Since the door top will be open to the weather, you
will get some water on the inside of the door, but if you use galvanized
hardware and treated wood for the door frame, the door should last as
long as you do.

If you are a compulsive perfectionist, take the siding off and cut it to
accommodate the track hangers and track flashing. You will still have
to space the hangers out, but you can use a continuous board and go with
untreated wood, since the flashing will catch the moisture.

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