My barrel tiled roof was damaged by Wilma. Basically many tiles along the
ridge of the roof were either broken, missing or cracked. Here is a picture
of one side of the ridge:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-...oof_ridge1.jpg

A close up view:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-...oof_ridge2.jpg

The tiles are ten years old, and I don't know if I should replace the entire
roof or just get things fixed.

Getting a roofer to come by to take a look will take weeks, no one is
answering phone calls now, and everyone needs a roofer to fix their damaged
roof. I also need an insurance adjuster to come take a look, but I just
don't think what I had will exceed the $10000 deductable I have for
windstorm...I had roof damage and fence was blown away.

Last time I spoke to someone to repair my roof, he told me my tiles have
been discontinued and I was lucky I had two pieces left. What will they do
if there is no longer any replacement tiles?

Should I put some tarp on my ridge in the mean time in case it rains? How
would I attach the tarp? Duct tape?

Thanks for any advise,

MC

miamicuse wrote:
Should I put some tarp on my ridge in the mean time in case it rains?
How would I attach the tarp? Duct tape?

With tile roofs the primary waterproofing is provided by the
underlayment. It looks like your ridge tiles blew off because they were
mortared in place - a common failure when the mortar is incorrectly
applied during initial installlation. If your underlayment is in good
shape (not cracked or torn) then you don't need to do anything for now.
Since the underlayment will degrade with long term exposure to the sun
replacing the ridge tiles promptly would be a good idea - this time use
an adhesive attachment such as PolyPro or even RT-600 (assuming the
mortar pads are still in place). If you replace all the ridge tiles it
probably won't be necessary to get an exact color match.

http://www.polyfoam.cc/products/roof/stormcheck.html
http://www.osiproseries.com/adhesive...tile-adhesive/

miamicuse wrote:
I also need an insurance adjuster to come take a look,
but I just don't think what I had will exceed the $10000 deductable I
have for windstorm...I had roof damage and fence was blown away.

A new tile roof done to HVHZ standards costs about $500 a square (100
square feet), so don't underestimate the potential cost.

"miamicuse" wrote in message
...
My barrel tiled roof was damaged by Wilma. Basically many tiles along the
ridge of the roof were either broken, missing or cracked. Here is a
picture
of one side of the ridge:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-...oof_ridge1.jpg

A close up view:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-...oof_ridge2.jpg

The tiles are ten years old, and I don't know if I should replace the
entire
roof or just get things fixed.

Getting a roofer to come by to take a look will take weeks, no one is
answering phone calls now, and everyone needs a roofer to fix their
damaged
roof. I also need an insurance adjuster to come take a look, but I just
don't think what I had will exceed the $10000 deductable I have for
windstorm...I had roof damage and fence was blown away.

Last time I spoke to someone to repair my roof, he told me my tiles have
been discontinued and I was lucky I had two pieces left. What will they do
if there is no longer any replacement tiles?

Should I put some tarp on my ridge in the mean time in case it rains? How
would I attach the tarp? Duct tape?

Thanks for any advise,

MC

Some breakage of tile is normal wear and tear. After all the stuff is a
close kin to pottery.
Walking on the roof can and will damage the tiles. Especially if I were to
do it ~300 lbs.
If the field is free of cracked tiles then I would consider just replacing
the cap.
Tile should last 25-40 years. Do you have the original warrantee? They will
not replace the caps but the cracked tiles might be replaced.

Preventing water from entry to the home is always a good idea. Duct tape is
not the choice I would use. A tarp and some strechies is what I would use.

Replacement might be another roof.

SQLit wrote:
Some breakage of tile is normal wear and tear. After all the stuff
is a close kin to pottery.
Walking on the roof can and will damage the tiles. Especially if I
were to do it ~300 lbs.

Nowadays the most common roof tile is made out of concrete, not clay.

In Florida concrete roof tile is required to be tested to withstand
several hundred psi, and if properly installed (using a foam-in-place
paddy system) you can walk on these tiles without damage. I haven't
tested this myself but I've had 275 lb roofers walk all over my roof
during and after installation without breakage.

This is not true of older concrete tiles such as 'Duntex', a crummy
Florida and Texas tile that will disintegrate if a basketball is dropped
on it!

wrote:
$10.000 deductible? I think you need a new insurance company !!!!

You obviously don't live in coastal Florida. 2% or 5% deductibles for
windstorm damage are common here.

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 30 Oct 2005 11:46:21 -0500, "miamicuse"
wrote:

My barrel tiled roof was damaged by Wilma. Basically many tiles along the
ridge of the roof were either broken, missing or cracked. Here is a
picture
of one side of the ridge:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-...oof_ridge1.jpg

A close up view:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-...oof_ridge2.jpg

The tiles are ten years old, and I don't know if I should replace the
entire
roof or just get things fixed.

Getting a roofer to come by to take a look will take weeks, no one is
answering phone calls now, and everyone needs a roofer to fix their
damaged
roof. I also need an insurance adjuster to come take a look, but I just
don't think what I had will exceed the $10000 deductable I have for
windstorm...I had roof damage and fence was blown away.

Last time I spoke to someone to repair my roof, he told me my tiles have
been discontinued and I was lucky I had two pieces left. What will they
do
if there is no longer any replacement tiles?

Should I put some tarp on my ridge in the mean time in case it rains? How
would I attach the tarp? Duct tape?

Thanks for any advise,

MC


$10.000 deductible? I think you need a new insurance company !!!!

Actually this is not possible. Many insurance companies no longer take
policies in south Florida. You are lucky if you can find ONE to insure you,
there are no real choices out there. If you make a claim or two, they drop
you. If I reduce my deductable to $5000, my rates probably will double.
Next year I am looking at a substantial increase, and with Wilma, even more.
Even if my repair bill is $10000 I am still not sure I will risk my rate by
filing a claim. South Florida is very different from rest of the country.


As for the tarp. Tie ropes to the holes, run them down the roof to
the rain gutters or put eyelets in the overhang and eaves. Tie ropes
to that or use bungee cords on the ends of the ropes. The eyelets
will later unscrew and a little caulk will fill the holes.

What is stopping YOU from replacing the bad tiles if you can not get a
roofer?

Well, I do a lot of stuff, but climbing on a ladder to the roof is something
I cannot do, my knees get weak when I get up the ladder. I am OK once I am
on the roof, but I have a real phobia when I am on the ladder about to set
foot on the roof and also when I get off from it. I can't explain it, but
it's true. Some of it has to do with the Krause ladder I have (very
skinny), but most of it is me (psychological), plus having two neighbors who
fell off their ladder last year does not inspire any confidence.

"Travis Jordan" wrote in message
...
SQLit wrote:
Some breakage of tile is normal wear and tear. After all the stuff
is a close kin to pottery.
Walking on the roof can and will damage the tiles. Especially if I
were to do it ~300 lbs.

Nowadays the most common roof tile is made out of concrete, not clay.

In Florida concrete roof tile is required to be tested to withstand
several hundred psi, and if properly installed (using a foam-in-place
paddy system) you can walk on these tiles without damage. I haven't
tested this myself but I've had 275 lb roofers walk all over my roof
during and after installation without breakage.

This is not true of older concrete tiles such as 'Duntex', a crummy
Florida and Texas tile that will disintegrate if a basketball is dropped
on it!



I can walk on mine OK. My problem is getting up there. I am real nervous
on a ladder, no kidding. My wife even laugh at me when I climb on a ladder.

What town are you in? E-mail me, I may have somone who can tarp it for
you. If its just the ridge caps I would just replace them with whatever
tiles look closest. they do not need to be an exact match to the
originals, just any ole gray ridge should look fine. Don't use duck
tape or duct tape. yes tarp it. FEMA also has a tarp program call
1-888-ROOF-BLU or some such thing but I'm typicly loath to involve the
government in my personal affairs.

What is stopping YOU from replacing the bad tiles if you can not get a
roofer?

I also have Wilma cap damage - perhaps 10-15 tiles total. Some fell off
(one went through my screen enclosure and busted on the floor). Most
are still up there.

If I can get up there (2nd story) - somewhere I read to walk the tiles
horizontally, putting weight on the end of the tiles to prevent
cracking.

Then all I have to do is adhesive the tiles? Sounds fairly easy, though
a bit scary.

Gary

garz wrote:
Then all I have to do is adhesive the tiles? Sounds fairly easy,
though a bit scary.

Gary

Yes, that is correct. Use RT-600 as the adhesive

Helpful instructions:
To avoid breaking tiles, there are certain methods of traversing the
roof that may minimize damage. Typically, it is recommended to step at
the bottom three inches of the installed tile. This is the portion of
the tile that is supported by the lapped tile beneath it and the weight
is then transferred through it to the deck below.
Orient your feet in a direction parallel with the ridge and try to
distribute your weight evenly and walk as softly as possible. On S
shaped tiles, it is recommended for you to distribute your weight with
the heel and toe on the high points of adjacent tiles.

Another option that proves helpful, particularly when a work task may
distract you, is to use walk pads to distribute weight over a larger
area you may be working on.

Pads may be fabricated in a number of ways but are typically made from
sheets of plywood cut into 2' X 2' sections. The underside of these pads
can then be fitted with softer material such as carpet or rigid foam
that willhelp spread the weight and prevent slippage.

It is also recommended to stay away from hips or valleys to avoid
breaking specially cut tiles that would be more difficult to replace.
The exception to this would be in situations where the hips and ridges
are attached by being bedded in either mortar or foam, in which case,
they may be preferred walking paths.

Valleys can also be ideal access paths, if the tiles are cut away from
the center of the valley wide enough to allow foot traffic on the valley
flashing instead of the tile. Take special care when walking on valley
flashing, as the metal can be slippery.

I am in Hollywood/Dania Florida. If you know someone please email me it
would be greatly appreciated. I called 1-888-ROOF-BLU it's operated by the
Corp of Engineers and they told me they only will work in Shingle roof not
tiled roof.

MC

"No" wrote in message
ups.com...
What town are you in? E-mail me, I may have somone who can tarp it for
you. If its just the ridge caps I would just replace them with whatever
tiles look closest. they do not need to be an exact match to the
originals, just any ole gray ridge should look fine. Don't use duck
tape or duct tape. yes tarp it. FEMA also has a tarp program call
1-888-ROOF-BLU or some such thing but I'm typicly loath to involve the
government in my personal affairs.

On Sun, 30 Oct 2005 18:33:37 -0500, "miamicuse"
wrote:




I can walk on mine OK. My problem is getting up there. I am real nervous
on a ladder, no kidding. My wife even laugh at me when I climb on a ladder.

Make your wife fix the roof. Would serve her right.

But seriously, my condolences. I have two friends who live in
Tamarac. I think they are condos so no responsibility for the roof,
but tiles flew off, breaking the windshields of two family members
visiting one of their next-door neighbors. Her car was in the garage,
but it's a one car gararage.


Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.

On Sun, 30 Oct 2005 18:32:13 -0500, "miamicuse"
wrote:


Well, I do a lot of stuff, but climbing on a ladder to the roof is something
I cannot do, my knees get weak when I get up the ladder. I am OK once I am
on the roof, but I have a real phobia when I am on the ladder about to set
foot on the roof and also when I get off from it.

I don't have a tremendous fear, but getting off and on the ladder are
definitely the worst parts. Much easier however if the ladder extends
3 or 4 feet above the edge of the roof.

Mine just barely passed the gutter the first year I was here and had
to install a roof fan. I planned ahead and carried everything up in
one shot. I was sitting sideways, near the top. I cut the shingles
and the wood, and wanted to install the fan, but it seemed I hadn't
brought it up with me. I finally found it right behind me. I had
been too scared to turn more than 70 degrees. So I couldn't see it.

But I got the job done, and done well.

But the next day, I was sore all over, even though nothing was heavy
or required force. It was one big isometric exercise, sitting so
still with all my muscles tense, for fear I'd relax and roll off.

I can't explain it, but
it's true. Some of it has to do with the Krause ladder I have (very
skinny), but most of it is me (psychological), plus having two neighbors who
fell off their ladder last year does not inspire any confidence.


Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.

miamicuse wrote:
I am in Hollywood/Dania Florida. If you know someone please email me
it would be greatly appreciated. I called 1-888-ROOF-BLU it's
operated by the Corp of Engineers and they told me they only will
work in Shingle roof not tiled roof.

That's because the tarps are nailed in place - you obviously can't do
that with a tile roof.

wrote:
It may just be our wind code but tile in Florida has 2 screws in it,
along with the bedding.

The attachment method (mortar, one part adhesive, two part adhesive,
nails, screws...with or without battens) for tile in Florida depends on
the type of tile, the slope of the roof, the manufacturer's design and
installation instructions, and the rated wind load - the latter of which
varies by location within the state.