I've been researching how to make my aluminum wired house safer without
actually rewiring it. I've posted several question before to do with
other ideas, however, I recently stumbled accross these products:

http://ebusiness.ilsco.com/webapp/wc...categoryId=210

and

http://ebusiness.ilsco.com/webapp/wc...categoryId=167

These are splicers designed for aluminum to copper connections and tap
connectors, which I'm assuming are bascially a splicer but made for
more than two wires. They come insulated which I've never seen before.

I've read previous recommendations about split bolt connectors and
splicers. These seem to be the connector choice for larger aluminum
wiring and has never really caused problems on those larger wires.
Basically I'm trying to stay away from using any twist on wire nuts on
any connection that has an aluminum wire in it ...

I'm wondering if anyone has ever done this sort of things or if there's
any information to back up my idea, etc.

Thanks,
Harry

"Harry Muscle" wrote in message
ups.com...
I've been researching how to make my aluminum wired house
safer without
actually rewiring it. I've posted several question before
to do with
other ideas, however, I recently stumbled accross these
products:

http://ebusiness.ilsco.com/webapp/wc...categoryId=210

and

http://ebusiness.ilsco.com/webapp/wc...categoryId=167

These are splicers designed for aluminum to copper
connections and tap
connectors, which I'm assuming are bascially a splicer but
made for
more than two wires. They come insulated which I've never
seen before.

I've read previous recommendations about split bolt
connectors and
splicers. These seem to be the connector choice for larger
aluminum
wiring and has never really caused problems on those larger
wires.
Basically I'm trying to stay away from using any twist on
wire nuts on
any connection that has an aluminum wire in it ...

I'm wondering if anyone has ever done this sort of things or
if there's
any information to back up my idea, etc.

Thanks,
Harry


Those are good, for bullet proofing you can use an anti
oxidizing grease over the wire, and inside the fittings...a
thin coat, not globbed on.

In marine environment it would be dicier. Id think twice and
use a real tight rubber tape wrap over the splice...then a
tight electrical tape wrap over that.

the other aspect is the current running through the
splice...say for instance you have a splice of #12 awg
(typical for 20 amp circuits, but should not be constant
amperage over 15 amps approx).... but your splice is passing
20 amps constantly... that is a problem..it will run warm or
even hot depending on how much other wire is in the splice
box, location and other factors.

that splice is going to be a lot more difficult to make work.
(its also illegal, but it happens)

The bigger your wire is in relation to its rated load, the
more relable the entire system is going to be, particularly at
the splices you are mentioning.

Phil Scott

"Harry Muscle" wrote in message
ups.com...
I've been researching how to make my aluminum wired house safer without
actually rewiring it. I've posted several question before to do with
other ideas, however, I recently stumbled accross these products:


http://ebusiness.ilsco.com/webapp/wc...categoryId=210

and


http://ebusiness.ilsco.com/webapp/wc...categoryId=167

These are splicers designed for aluminum to copper connections and tap
connectors, which I'm assuming are bascially a splicer but made for
more than two wires. They come insulated which I've never seen before.

I've read previous recommendations about split bolt connectors and
splicers. These seem to be the connector choice for larger aluminum
wiring and has never really caused problems on those larger wires.
Basically I'm trying to stay away from using any twist on wire nuts on
any connection that has an aluminum wire in it ...

I'm wondering if anyone has ever done this sort of things or if there's
any information to back up my idea, etc.

Thanks,
Harry


These things are pretty big for household wiring. You will need to use
larger junction boxes for your splices such as a 6" x 6" x 4" or an 8" x 8"
x 4".

What is wrong with using twist-on wire connectors?

"Harry Muscle" wrote in message
ups.com...
I've been researching how to make my aluminum wired house safer without
actually rewiring it. I've posted several question before to do with
other ideas, however, I recently stumbled accross these products:


http://ebusiness.ilsco.com/webapp/wc...categoryId=210

and


http://ebusiness.ilsco.com/webapp/wc...categoryId=167

These are splicers designed for aluminum to copper connections and tap
connectors, which I'm assuming are bascially a splicer but made for
more than two wires. They come insulated which I've never seen before.

I've read previous recommendations about split bolt connectors and
splicers. These seem to be the connector choice for larger aluminum
wiring and has never really caused problems on those larger wires.
Basically I'm trying to stay away from using any twist on wire nuts on
any connection that has an aluminum wire in it ...

I'm wondering if anyone has ever done this sort of things or if there's
any information to back up my idea, etc.

Thanks,
Harry

When you first posted this idea a couple of months ago. I believe you or
someone else was looking for the tool for the connectors in Canada and found
that you had to be certified to get a hold of the tool.

Out of curiosity I did some snooping in the local market and found one of
the tools and the price of the connectors was outrageous. I googled for a
time and came to the conclusion that few if any manufactures really want
anything to do with the need or the market segment.

I came to the conclusion that it was not worth any more of my time and I
would continue to do it the way I have for years, (with wirenuts) and
"forget about it".

The ones I'd use aren't too large, about 1.5 inches cubed for the tap
connectors and I'm hoping the dimensions for the splicer is listed in
cm or otherwise those things are way way bigger than I expected.

As for the twist on wire nuts, have a read he

http://www.inspect-ny.com/aluminum.htm

Apparently they don't really improve the safety aspect of aluminum
wiring much. About half way down the page you'll find lots of info
about the Ideal 65 connectors that are approved for aluminum wiring.
They do offer a solution for using a different wire nut which I might
go with ... but I'm still debeating.

Thanks,
Harry

"Harry Muscle" wrote in message
oups.com...
The ones I'd use aren't too large, about 1.5 inches cubed for the tap
connectors and I'm hoping the dimensions for the splicer is listed in
cm or otherwise those things are way way bigger than I expected.

As for the twist on wire nuts, have a read he

http://www.inspect-ny.com/aluminum.htm

Apparently they don't really improve the safety aspect of aluminum
wiring much. About half way down the page you'll find lots of info
about the Ideal 65 connectors that are approved for aluminum wiring.
They do offer a solution for using a different wire nut which I might
go with ... but I'm still debeating.

Thanks,
Harry


I would do a little more research Harry. That site was created by a home
inspector. My experience with home inspectors leaves me with little
confidence in their qualifications. They seem to read articles and
publications and use the short sighted information for their own advantage.
I read on this particular site about lightning protection. His
recommendation is that you only use a Master Label certified contractor by
UL Laboratories to install lightning protection. The last time I checked
there were only 99 Master Label Certified companies in the United States and
some of them were only manufacturers and not installers.

Something to consider when making a copper to aluminum connection is the
load. Aluminum expands and contracts more than copper depending on how warm
it gets. That movement is what causes the terminations and splices to
become loose and consequently generate more heat which leads to greater
expansion and contraction and even more heat. Since aluminum has a lower
melting point than copper, the aluminum connection may eventually melt.
Instead of trying to redo each and every connection, it might be in your
long term best interest to gradually add new circuits to relieve or replace
the existing loads on the aluminum wiring. Some rooms such as the kitchen
usually have greater loads than a bedroom. It all depends on your usage.
If you have an outlet that you plug an air conditioner or an electric heater
in, then I would say that is a good candidate for an upgrade. You might
want to start by mapping your circuits.


John Grabowski
http://www.mrelectrician.tv

Harry Muscle wrote:
The ones I'd use aren't too large, about 1.5 inches cubed for the tap
connectors and I'm hoping the dimensions for the splicer is listed in
cm or otherwise those things are way way bigger than I expected.


Scanning the catalog, other dimensions that were identifiable (labeled
or fractional) were inches. Another problem - wire is all marked STR,
which I presume is stranded. If true they are not listed for and may or
may not work properly for solid.

bud-

I am not convinced there is any "safe" way to fix this problem short of
replacing the offending wire.

Keep in mind that the problem wire is not the aluminum wire that is
commonly used today in larger sizes, but the small gauge wire once used
to wire up branch circuits in homes.

i think you realistically have two choices - one is to bite the bullet
and replace the wiring. The other is to leave it alone. As an amateur
you are likely to makke the situation worse rather than better.

Bud-- wrote:
Harry Muscle wrote:
The ones I'd use aren't too large, about 1.5 inches cubed for the tap
connectors and I'm hoping the dimensions for the splicer is listed in
cm or otherwise those things are way way bigger than I expected.


Scanning the catalog, other dimensions that were identifiable (labeled
or fractional) were inches. Another problem - wire is all marked STR,
which I presume is stranded. If true they are not listed for and may or
may not work properly for solid.

bud-