Hello all I've been asking about wells recently, and I know sort of
where it is, there is a white plastic pipe (around 3" diameter)
sticking out of the ground, right next to my garden shed (which looks
new), but no other indication of the well. Possibly the last owner
built the shed on top of the well? Anyway, how can I go about finding
it? Can I run a metal detector around to look for cables or something?
Do townships have these things mapped? Any hints welcomed.

Dean

dean wrote:

Hello all I've been asking about wells recently, and I know sort of
where it is, there is a white plastic pipe (around 3" diameter)
sticking out of the ground, right next to my garden shed (which looks
new), but no other indication of the well. Possibly the last owner
built the shed on top of the well? Anyway, how can I go about finding
it? Can I run a metal detector around to look for cables or something?
Do townships have these things mapped? Any hints welcomed.

I'd ask the previous owner first.

I would assume if the pipe is coming out of the ground vertically that
is it.

I would certainly hope the previous owner wasn't stupid enough to have
covered it over.

Somewhere there has to be an electrical service. You can trace it back
to where it goes underground and go from there also.

Where does the other end of the pipe go?

Hello all I've been asking about wells recently, and I know sort of
where it is, there is a white plastic pipe (around 3" diameter)


I would assume if the pipe is coming out of the ground vertically that
is it.


Not if it's white pvc pipe.. that's more likely to be for
venting the septic, or a groundwater inspection hole,
or something. I'd find where the water-main comes into the
house, and seek outward in a straight line from there.

Not if it's white pvc pipe.

Why not? All of our well casings are PVC around here . It is probably
4" tho unless it is a shallow well.

I'm not a well-drilling pro, but IMNSHO,
somebody "around here" is doing it wrong. The exposed part
of the well-casing should be made of something than can take a
stout blow without shattering. Steel by preference, but I'd
be willing to accept ABS with UV blockers.

Are you sure that the wells aren't terminating below-ground,
and that pipe isn't just a marker?
--Goedjn

*IMNSHO = In my not so humble opinion

On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 17:19:46 -0400, Goedjn wrote:

Why not? All of our well casings are PVC around here . It is probably
4" tho unless it is a shallow well.

I'm not a well-drilling pro, but IMNSHO,
somebody "around here" is doing it wrong. The exposed part
of the well-casing should be made of something than can take a
stout blow without shattering. Steel by preference, but I'd
be willing to accept ABS with UV blockers.

Are you sure that the wells aren't terminating below-ground,
and that pipe isn't just a marker?

Dunno where your from, but wells in this area also have PVC casings - mine's
6" PVC. Neighbors also have PVC casings. I know that my well isn't terminated
below ground, and pretty sure that the neighbors' aren't either. Never heard
of terminating a well underground - unless you're capping one that isnt'
gonna be used anymore. Wouldn't think it'd be very wise to do so,
particularly if you have a submersible pump like myself and my neighbors.
Specs I'm familiar with recommend AT LEAST 4 inches of casing above ground.

Unless you live in a part of the country that doesn't freeze in winter, the
well should be within some sort of housing (many times looks like a doghouse
with no opening, could be a shed though) to protect the water pipes from
freezing - that should help to protect the casing against "a stout blow"
also. Just curious, who do you have beating on your well casing anyway?

Recommendations here also call for a concrete pad around the casing that
extends a minimum of 2 ft in all directions to help prevent surface water
from entering the well. That's in addition to the grout that's installed
around the casing when the casing is put in.

Dunno about bored wells, most wells in my area are drilled. All bored wells
I've seen look like a concrete pipe about 2 ft in diameter with a concrete
cap on it. I've never seen one with the cap off.

Later, Mike

Michael Strickland wrote:
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 17:19:46 -0400, Goedjn wrote:

Why not? All of our well casings are PVC around here . It is probably
4" tho unless it is a shallow well.

I'm not a well-drilling pro, but IMNSHO,
somebody "around here" is doing it wrong. The exposed part
of the well-casing should be made of something than can take a
stout blow without shattering. Steel by preference, but I'd
be willing to accept ABS with UV blockers.

Are you sure that the wells aren't terminating below-ground,
and that pipe isn't just a marker?

Dunno where your from, but wells in this area also have PVC casings - mine's
6" PVC. Neighbors also have PVC casings. I know that my well isn't terminated
below ground, and pretty sure that the neighbors' aren't either. Never heard
of terminating a well underground - unless you're capping one that isnt'
gonna be used anymore. Wouldn't think it'd be very wise to do so,
particularly if you have a submersible pump like myself and my neighbors.
Specs I'm familiar with recommend AT LEAST 4 inches of casing above ground.

Unless you live in a part of the country that doesn't freeze in winter, the
well should be within some sort of housing (many times looks like a doghouse
with no opening, could be a shed though) to protect the water pipes from
freezing - that should help to protect the casing against "a stout blow"
also. Just curious, who do you have beating on your well casing anyway?

Recommendations here also call for a concrete pad around the casing that
extends a minimum of 2 ft in all directions to help prevent surface water
from entering the well. That's in addition to the grout that's installed
around the casing when the casing is put in.

Dunno about bored wells, most wells in my area are drilled. All bored wells
I've seen look like a concrete pipe about 2 ft in diameter with a concrete
cap on it. I've never seen one with the cap off.

Later, Mike

I also think it is strange to use PVC above ground. Too easily broken.
Never seen one that wasn't iron pipe. As for 'dog house' protection,
BS. Wells all over the country including up here in the north consist
of a (iron) pipe sticking up about a foot and capped. All service
piping is underground below frost level.

I would like to see a well driller try to case a well using PVC. The
well casing is DRIVEN down.

Harry K

We left on bad terms with the previous owner, who ended up paying a
load in repairs for us after a bad inspection report. I have emailed
him but to no avail. I can try the previous owner next, who was the
estate agent who used to live in the house.

I'll take another poke around and listen to the pipes (good idea,
thanks Mark). I'll report back here soon.

Thanks all,

Dean

wrote:
On 19 Oct 2005 19:10:07 -0700, "Harry K"
wrote:


Michael Strickland wrote:
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 17:19:46 -0400, Goedjn wrote:

Why not? All of our well casings are PVC around here . It is probably
4" tho unless it is a shallow well.

I'm not a well-drilling pro, but IMNSHO,
somebody "around here" is doing it wrong. The exposed part
of the well-casing should be made of something than can take a
stout blow without shattering. Steel by preference, but I'd
be willing to accept ABS with UV blockers.

Are you sure that the wells aren't terminating below-ground,
and that pipe isn't just a marker?

Dunno where your from, but wells in this area also have PVC casings - mine's
6" PVC. Neighbors also have PVC casings. I know that my well isn't terminated
below ground, and pretty sure that the neighbors' aren't either. Never heard
of terminating a well underground - unless you're capping one that isnt'
gonna be used anymore. Wouldn't think it'd be very wise to do so,
particularly if you have a submersible pump like myself and my neighbors.
Specs I'm familiar with recommend AT LEAST 4 inches of casing above ground.

Unless you live in a part of the country that doesn't freeze in winter, the
well should be within some sort of housing (many times looks like a doghouse
with no opening, could be a shed though) to protect the water pipes from
freezing - that should help to protect the casing against "a stout blow"
also. Just curious, who do you have beating on your well casing anyway?

Recommendations here also call for a concrete pad around the casing that
extends a minimum of 2 ft in all directions to help prevent surface water
from entering the well. That's in addition to the grout that's installed
around the casing when the casing is put in.

Dunno about bored wells, most wells in my area are drilled. All bored wells
I've seen look like a concrete pipe about 2 ft in diameter with a concrete
cap on it. I've never seen one with the cap off.

Later, Mike

I also think it is strange to use PVC above ground. Too easily broken.
Never seen one that wasn't iron pipe. As for 'dog house' protection,
BS. Wells all over the country including up here in the north consist
of a (iron) pipe sticking up about a foot and capped. All service
piping is underground below frost level.

I would like to see a well driller try to case a well using PVC. The
well casing is DRIVEN down.

Harry K

They dont drive the wells anymore. That is now obsolete.

snip

You talking about the same thing? Go to any well driller outfit and you
will find rotary rigs, the old 'hammer' types aren't used any more as
being too slow, if those are what you meant you are correct.

I have watched as a spectator as two wells were put in in the past 10
years. They are rotary drilled. When drilling is complete the regs
require that it be cased to solid rock, in mine that came to 66ft. My
neighbors, opposite side of the valley, was only 15 ft. After drilling
the casing is inserted and being a tight fit in the bore it is driven
down. You can't do that with PVC. I can see PVC being retrofitted to a
dug well but I wouldn't want it.

Harry K

wrote:

....

....Unless they found another method of
feeding the wires into a well, all wells have a small pipe that comes
up along the side of the well casing and has wires in it. These wires
go to the pump that is in the well.

Well (so to speak ), out here the wires just go down the casing w/
the pump and are normally buried going to whereever the service comes
from.

Same thing w/ the supply line--it's terminated off the side of the
casing underground and buried on its way to wherever the pressure tank
and controls are...

... All wells have a cover. If your
pipe has no cover, its not likely a well, and dont forget to look for
the wires.

First is true, second won't be visible if the well is like any around
here except at the controls and supply ends.

Go in your basement, look where the pipe enters the wall *by the
tank). Walk a straight line outside from that spot where it enters
the house and you will likely find it.

Would point you in the wrong direction here, for sure... The
original well was in the pump house, but it failed and a new one was
drilled north of there. It, however, was never very good (lots of sand)
and was replaced by another a long ways away from that clear on the
other side of the house. There's absolutely no clue from the location
of the pump house where that well is...

Not that it may not lead to the one for OP, but it surely isn't a
given...a lot of course depends on how large an area this is and how
old. Is it a large farm homestead like here that's been around for 100+
years or a (relatively) new residential area?

....

Just some random thoughts...

"Duane Bozarth" wrote in message
...
wrote:

...

....Unless they found another method of
feeding the wires into a well, all wells have a small pipe that comes
up along the side of the well casing and has wires in it. These wires
go to the pump that is in the well.

Well (so to speak ), out here the wires just go down the casing w/
the pump and are normally buried going to whereever the service comes
from.

Same thing w/ the supply line--it's terminated off the side of the
casing underground and buried on its way to wherever the pressure tank
and controls are...

... All wells have a cover. If your
pipe has no cover, its not likely a well, and dont forget to look for
the wires.

First is true, second won't be visible if the well is like any around
here except at the controls and supply ends.

Go in your basement, look where the pipe enters the wall *by the
tank). Walk a straight line outside from that spot where it enters
the house and you will likely find it.

Would point you in the wrong direction here, for sure... The
original well was in the pump house, but it failed and a new one was
drilled north of there. It, however, was never very good (lots of sand)
and was replaced by another a long ways away from that clear on the
other side of the house. There's absolutely no clue from the location
of the pump house where that well is...

Not that it may not lead to the one for OP, but it surely isn't a
given...a lot of course depends on how large an area this is and how
old. Is it a large farm homestead like here that's been around for 100+
years or a (relatively) new residential area?

...

Just some random thoughts...

If any permitted work was ever done, A site plan may have been filed with
the city, if your real lucky, the location will be plotted on the site plan.
Give the building dept a call, they can tell you if it is worth coming to
city hall to look.

Other than that, there are all manner of metal and electrical detectors for
locating underground services. I'm sure you can pay someone (well company)
to locate it for you. In most states, there is a "Dig Safe" program where
they will locate all the utilities for you proir to your diggging. It is
often free. I was suprised to find a city employee using divining rods to
locate the water main but dousing is considered a legitimate technique by
many.

In Ohio anyway, all the well records are public and available online.
You can enter a street address and access the well log. For any well
drilled in the last 5 years or so at least, there are GPS coordinates.
Borrow a hand-held GPS from someone and it will get you within 5 yards
or so....

Even if they aren't available online in your state, the health
department should be able to tell you how to access the drilling log.
Or call a local drilling company.

HTH,

Paul