I have a portable generator that is rated at 7,500 watts run and about
14,000 start. I have a 10 seer (sp?) central AC. Is it possible to run the
AC from the generator if nothing elese is attached to the generator?

Thanks.

IC

IC_Clearly wrote:
I have a portable generator that is rated at 7,500 watts run and about
14,000 start. I have a 10 seer (sp?) central AC. Is it possible to run the
AC from the generator if nothing elese is attached to the generator?

Thanks.

IC


Probably is OK. You can try it. If it doesn't trip the gen breaker
then you're ok.

10 seer is the efficiency of the machine (low) you need to give the full
load amperage of the condenser and the blower as well as the voltage of the
blower



"IC_Clearly" wrote in message
...
I have a portable generator that is rated at 7,500 watts run and about
14,000 start. I have a 10 seer (sp?) central AC. Is it possible to run
the
AC from the generator if nothing elese is attached to the generator?

Thanks.

IC

The condenser is 240V, but the blower fan is 120. The generator will work
at 240 (though I'm not sure it is wired in through the panel at 240).

--
IC


"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
10 seer is the efficiency of the machine (low) you need to give the full
load amperage of the condenser and the blower as well as the voltage of
the
blower



"IC_Clearly" wrote in message
...
I have a portable generator that is rated at 7,500 watts run and about
14,000 start. I have a 10 seer (sp?) central AC. Is it possible to run
the
AC from the generator if nothing elese is attached to the generator?

Thanks.

IC

IC_Clearly wrote:
I have a portable generator that is rated at 7,500 watts run and about
14,000 start. I have a 10 seer (sp?) central AC. Is it possible to
run the AC from the generator if nothing elese is attached to the
generator?

What size is the AC (tons)? Multiply the tons by 1200 to get
approximate run time watts.

It can take six or eight times the run time wattage for starting. If
you have a 'hard start' kit on the condenser it will reduce the starting
load.

I have a portable generator that is rated at 7,500 watts run and about
14,000 start.

Are you sure about that? Typically generators will handle surges of 10 or
20% over capacity; not 100%

Do you have an ampmeter? That is the best way to determine how much the AC
draws.

You still need full load amperage of both units. It would have been better
if the blower was 240 as well. Your generator puts out aprox 31 amps @240
volts continuous. The blower at 120 volt probably needs around 10 to 12
amps. Look on the nameplate of the condenser for the FLA


"IC_Clearly" wrote in message
...
The condenser is 240V, but the blower fan is 120. The generator will work
at 240 (though I'm not sure it is wired in through the panel at 240).

--
IC


"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
10 seer is the efficiency of the machine (low) you need to give the full
load amperage of the condenser and the blower as well as the voltage of
the
blower



"IC_Clearly" wrote in message
...
I have a portable generator that is rated at 7,500 watts run and about
14,000 start. I have a 10 seer (sp?) central AC. Is it possible to
run
the
AC from the generator if nothing elese is attached to the generator?

Thanks.

IC

IC_Clearly writes:

I have a portable generator that is rated at 7,500 watts run and about
14,000 start. I have a 10 seer (sp?) central AC. Is it possible to
run the AC from the generator if nothing elese is attached to the
generator?

Even the smallest split system will require far more starting current than
that generator could provide.

Really Highly Doubt it that you will be able to run the AC off of your
portable Generator - Seeing that it is going to be a pain in the ass to
have the 240 and the 120v coming off your generator at the same time, and
not to mention unless you have a really big portable generator its not going
to supply the current you need to get that A/C up and running. That
Start-Up Current Spike is going to be way over what your generator probably
can supply thus it will trip everytime.

Joe
"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
You still need full load amperage of both units. It would have been better
if the blower was 240 as well. Your generator puts out aprox 31 amps @240
volts continuous. The blower at 120 volt probably needs around 10 to 12
amps. Look on the nameplate of the condenser for the FLA


"IC_Clearly" wrote in message
...
The condenser is 240V, but the blower fan is 120. The generator will
work
at 240 (though I'm not sure it is wired in through the panel at 240).

--
IC


"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
10 seer is the efficiency of the machine (low) you need to give the full
load amperage of the condenser and the blower as well as the voltage of
the
blower



"IC_Clearly" wrote in message
...
I have a portable generator that is rated at 7,500 watts run and about
14,000 start. I have a 10 seer (sp?) central AC. Is it possible to
run
the
AC from the generator if nothing elese is attached to the generator?

Thanks.

IC

My parents ran the A/C from their portable many times. Living in rural
NC they got their power knocked out a lot by storms. The 240/120 wasnt
an issue. They just back fed to the house load center and ran things
normally. They just couldnt run the A/C and water heater at the same time.



Joe Grassi wrote:
Really Highly Doubt it that you will be able to run the AC off of your
portable Generator - Seeing that it is going to be a pain in the ass to
have the 240 and the 120v coming off your generator at the same time, and
not to mention unless you have a really big portable generator its not going
to supply the current you need to get that A/C up and running. That
Start-Up Current Spike is going to be way over what your generator probably
can supply thus it will trip everytime.

Joe
"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...

You still need full load amperage of both units. It would have been better
if the blower was 240 as well. Your generator puts out aprox 31 amps @240
volts continuous. The blower at 120 volt probably needs around 10 to 12
amps. Look on the nameplate of the condenser for the FLA


"IC_Clearly" wrote in message
...

The condenser is 240V, but the blower fan is 120. The generator will
work
at 240 (though I'm not sure it is wired in through the panel at 240).

--
IC


"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...

10 seer is the efficiency of the machine (low) you need to give the full
load amperage of the condenser and the blower as well as the voltage of

the

blower



"IC_Clearly" wrote in message
...

I have a portable generator that is rated at 7,500 watts run and about
14,000 start. I have a 10 seer (sp?) central AC. Is it possible to
run
the
AC from the generator if nothing elese is attached to the generator?

Thanks.

IC

Practically all generators with a 7.5 kw output generate 120/240 volts. The
OP's issue is his combined starting and running current, which is still
unknown. If his unit is small enough, it would work fine



"User Example" wrote in message
...
My parents ran the A/C from their portable many times. Living in rural NC
they got their power knocked out a lot by storms. The 240/120 wasnt an
issue. They just back fed to the house load center and ran things
normally. They just couldnt run the A/C and water heater at the same
time.



Joe Grassi wrote:
Really Highly Doubt it that you will be able to run the AC off of your
portable Generator - Seeing that it is going to be a pain in the ass to
have the 240 and the 120v coming off your generator at the same time, and
not to mention unless you have a really big portable generator its not
going to supply the current you need to get that A/C up and running.
That Start-Up Current Spike is going to be way over what your generator
probably can supply thus it will trip everytime.

Joe
"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...

You still need full load amperage of both units. It would have been
better if the blower was 240 as well. Your generator puts out aprox 31
amps @240 volts continuous. The blower at 120 volt probably needs around
10 to 12 amps. Look on the nameplate of the condenser for the FLA


"IC_Clearly" wrote in message
...

The condenser is 240V, but the blower fan is 120. The generator will
work
at 240 (though I'm not sure it is wired in through the panel at 240).

--
IC


"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...

10 seer is the efficiency of the machine (low) you need to give the
full
load amperage of the condenser and the blower as well as the voltage of

the

blower



"IC_Clearly" wrote in message
...

I have a portable generator that is rated at 7,500 watts run and about
14,000 start. I have a 10 seer (sp?) central AC. Is it possible to
run
the
AC from the generator if nothing elese is attached to the generator?

Thanks.

IC

Richard J Kinch wrote:
Even the smallest split system will require far more starting current
than that generator could provide.

I would think that something under 24000 BTU (2.4 KW) would probably
start OK, even if it didn't have a hard start kit on it.

Travis Jordan wrote:

I would think that something under 24000 BTU (2.4 KW) would probably
start OK...

24000 Btu is 7 kilowatt-HOURS of energy. We might make 24K Btu/h
of cooling power with 2.4 kW of electrical power...

Nick

Backfeeding through the main panel without a transfer switch is dangerous as
hell and in most places illegal

"User Example" wrote in message
...
My parents ran the A/C from their portable many times. Living in rural NC
they got their power knocked out a lot by storms. The 240/120 wasnt an
issue. They just back fed to the house load center and ran things
normally. They just couldnt run the A/C and water heater at the same
time.



Joe Grassi wrote:
Really Highly Doubt it that you will be able to run the AC off of your
portable Generator - Seeing that it is going to be a pain in the ass to
have the 240 and the 120v coming off your generator at the same time, and
not to mention unless you have a really big portable generator its not
going to supply the current you need to get that A/C up and running.
That Start-Up Current Spike is going to be way over what your generator
probably can supply thus it will trip everytime.

Joe
"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...

You still need full load amperage of both units. It would have been
better if the blower was 240 as well. Your generator puts out aprox 31
amps @240 volts continuous. The blower at 120 volt probably needs around
10 to 12 amps. Look on the nameplate of the condenser for the FLA


"IC_Clearly" wrote in message
...

The condenser is 240V, but the blower fan is 120. The generator will
work
at 240 (though I'm not sure it is wired in through the panel at 240).

--
IC


"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...

10 seer is the efficiency of the machine (low) you need to give the
full
load amperage of the condenser and the blower as well as the voltage of

the

blower



"IC_Clearly" wrote in message
...

I have a portable generator that is rated at 7,500 watts run and about
14,000 start. I have a 10 seer (sp?) central AC. Is it possible to
run
the
AC from the generator if nothing elese is attached to the generator?

Thanks.

IC

You are right. They always disconnect from the main power before
running off the gen.


Noon-Air wrote:
Backfeeding through the main panel without a transfer switch is dangerous as
hell and in most places illegal

"User Example" wrote in message
...

My parents ran the A/C from their portable many times. Living in rural NC
they got their power knocked out a lot by storms. The 240/120 wasnt an
issue. They just back fed to the house load center and ran things
normally. They just couldnt run the A/C and water heater at the same
time.



Joe Grassi wrote:

Really Highly Doubt it that you will be able to run the AC off of your
portable Generator - Seeing that it is going to be a pain in the ass to
have the 240 and the 120v coming off your generator at the same time, and
not to mention unless you have a really big portable generator its not
going to supply the current you need to get that A/C up and running.
That Start-Up Current Spike is going to be way over what your generator
probably can supply thus it will trip everytime.

Joe
"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...


You still need full load amperage of both units. It would have been
better if the blower was 240 as well. Your generator puts out aprox 31
amps @240 volts continuous. The blower at 120 volt probably needs around
10 to 12 amps. Look on the nameplate of the condenser for the FLA


"IC_Clearly" wrote in message
...


The condenser is 240V, but the blower fan is 120. The generator will
work
at 240 (though I'm not sure it is wired in through the panel at 240).

--
IC


"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...


10 seer is the efficiency of the machine (low) you need to give the
full
load amperage of the condenser and the blower as well as the voltage of

the


blower



"IC_Clearly" wrote in message
...


I have a portable generator that is rated at 7,500 watts run and about
14,000 start. I have a 10 seer (sp?) central AC. Is it possible to
run
the
AC from the generator if nothing elese is attached to the generator?

Thanks.

IC

On Sat, 10 Sep 2005 13:45:33 -0500, "IC_Clearly"
wrote:

I have a portable generator that is rated at 7,500 watts run and about
14,000 start. I have a 10 seer (sp?) central AC. Is it possible to run the
AC from the generator if nothing elese is attached to the generator?

Thanks.

IC




That's a pretty expensive generator. If you can afford the
generator, you should be able to afford a couple of window units that
will work much better on emergency power. I'd recommend a couple of
very high EER 12,000 to 15,000 btu units.

wrote:
24000 Btu is 7 kilowatt-HOURS of energy. We might make 24K Btu/h
of cooling power with 2.4 kW of electrical power...

Only at 10 SEER or better.

My 2-ton 12 SEER heat pump outdoor unit draws about 6 to 8 amps at 240
volts when running. Start amps are about 20 to 25 amps. The indoor
unit draws about 2 amps at 240 volts. I use a window unit during power
outages, 120 volt, 1/2 ton. Then I can also run two refrigerators, a
microwave, the TV if the cable still works and some lights. I also run
a cord to each of two neighbors so they can run their refrigerators
too. If I ran my heat pump, it would reduce what Extra stuff I could
run.

What size is your AC? That would determine the answer. If it is much
over 3 tons, probably not.It depends on the surge rating of the
generator and if you have a hard start kit on your ac. My heat pump
has one, but I still prefer the window unit. Why strain an expensive
generator?

Stretch

Actually, I'm leaning toward that option. Not 12K or 15K btu units, but
maybe 3 or 4 6K window units. I have an upstairs and downstairs with about
1100 sqft upstairs and 2100 downstairs. I'm not looking to fully cool the
place, but in the peak summer (outside temps in the 95 to 100 range) keep it
in the 85 to 90 range and keep the humidty at tolerable levels.

--
IC

"Sherman" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 10 Sep 2005 13:45:33 -0500, "IC_Clearly"
wrote:

I have a portable generator that is rated at 7,500 watts run and about
14,000 start. I have a 10 seer (sp?) central AC. Is it possible to run
the
AC from the generator if nothing elese is attached to the generator?

Thanks.

IC




That's a pretty expensive generator. If you can afford the
generator, you should be able to afford a couple of window units that
will work much better on emergency power. I'd recommend a couple of
very high EER 12,000 to 15,000 btu units.

Stretch,

I mentioned in another post I am leaning toward the window unit plan now
(thanks to all the good info here). I am considering three or four 6 btu
units spread throughout the house. My generator is 7500 KW run and 13.5 KW
start, so I'm thinking I should have plenty to do about what you described
you do. Some lights, window AC, refridge, micorwave, TV and computers.

Thanks.

--
IC


"Stretch" wrote in message
oups.com...
My 2-ton 12 SEER heat pump outdoor unit draws about 6 to 8 amps at 240
volts when running. Start amps are about 20 to 25 amps. The indoor
unit draws about 2 amps at 240 volts. I use a window unit during power
outages, 120 volt, 1/2 ton. Then I can also run two refrigerators, a
microwave, the TV if the cable still works and some lights. I also run
a cord to each of two neighbors so they can run their refrigerators
too. If I ran my heat pump, it would reduce what Extra stuff I could
run.

What size is your AC? That would determine the answer. If it is much
over 3 tons, probably not.It depends on the surge rating of the
generator and if you have a hard start kit on your ac. My heat pump
has one, but I still prefer the window unit. Why strain an expensive
generator?

Stretch

That ain't true.

Backfeeding through the main panel with a suicide cord is
illegal in some areas (should be in all areas), and backfeeding
without disconnecting from the utility drop is also generally
illegal.

But a backfeed with a proper cord or wiring, plus a break-
before-make connection should be perfectly legit. And perfectly
safe. Farmers have been using huge double-pole/double-throw
switches for eons when they backfeed in an emergency.

Gideon

=============

Noon-Air wrote
Backfeeding through the main panel without a transfer switch is dangerous as
hell and in most places illegal.

"User Example" wrote in message
...
My parents ran the A/C from their portable many times. Living in rural NC
they got their power knocked out a lot by storms. The 240/120 wasnt an
issue. They just back fed to the house load center and ran things
normally. They just couldnt run the A/C and water heater at the same
time.



Joe Grassi wrote:
Really Highly Doubt it that you will be able to run the AC off of your
portable Generator - Seeing that it is going to be a pain in the ass to
have the 240 and the 120v coming off your generator at the same time, and
not to mention unless you have a really big portable generator its not
going to supply the current you need to get that A/C up and running.
That Start-Up Current Spike is going to be way over what your generator
probably can supply thus it will trip everytime.

Joe
"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...

You still need full load amperage of both units. It would have been
better if the blower was 240 as well. Your generator puts out aprox 31
amps @240 volts continuous. The blower at 120 volt probably needs around
10 to 12 amps. Look on the nameplate of the condenser for the FLA


"IC_Clearly" wrote in message
...

The condenser is 240V, but the blower fan is 120. The generator will
work
at 240 (though I'm not sure it is wired in through the panel at 240).

--
IC


"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...

10 seer is the efficiency of the machine (low) you need to give the
full
load amperage of the condenser and the blower as well as the voltage of

the

blower



"IC_Clearly" wrote in message
...

I have a portable generator that is rated at 7,500 watts run and about
14,000 start. I have a 10 seer (sp?) central AC. Is it possible to
run
the
AC from the generator if nothing elese is attached to the generator?

Thanks.

IC

Noon-Air wrote
Backfeeding through the main panel without a transfer switch is dangerous as
hell and in most places illegal.

Gideon wrote:
That ain't true.

Backfeeding through the main panel with a suicide cord is
illegal in some areas (should be in all areas), and backfeeding
without disconnecting from the utility drop is also generally
illegal.

But a backfeed with a proper cord or wiring, plus a break-
before-make connection should be perfectly legit. And perfectly
safe. Farmers have been using huge double-pole/double-throw
switches for eons when they backfeed in an emergency.

Gideon

=============


Those huge double-pole/double-throw switches you mentioned are transfer
switches. By definition a "back feed" involves sending current through
a circuit from a point on the circuit that is not it's normal source of
supply.
--
Tom Horne

Well we aren't no thin blue heroes and yet we aren't no blackguards to.
We're just working men and woman most remarkable like you.

Damn, I am the victim of my own failure to distinguish
vernacular vs NEC definitions. Thanks for the correction.

Now, if you can help me find a big-assed DPDT switch
that isn't overpriced by a factor of 10. (Yes, I know -
low production items always sell at a premium.)

Gideon

On Sun, 11 Sep 2005 12:54:11 -0500, "IC_Clearly"
wrote:

Actually, I'm leaning toward that option. Not 12K or 15K btu units, but
maybe 3 or 4 6K window units. I have an upstairs and downstairs with about
1100 sqft upstairs and 2100 downstairs. I'm not looking to fully cool the
place, but in the peak summer (outside temps in the 95 to 100 range) keep it
in the 85 to 90 range and keep the humidty at tolerable levels.

Good. Excellent idea.
Turning them on one at a time will prevent the problems with start
current blowing breakers.

Just make sure that they are all 10.8 minimum EER.

"HorneTD" wrote in message
link.net...
Noon-Air wrote
Backfeeding through the main panel without a transfer switch is
dangerous as
hell and in most places illegal.

Gideon wrote:
That ain't true.

Backfeeding through the main panel with a suicide cord is
illegal in some areas (should be in all areas), and backfeeding
without disconnecting from the utility drop is also generally
illegal.

But a backfeed with a proper cord or wiring, plus a break-
before-make connection should be perfectly legit. And perfectly
safe. Farmers have been using huge double-pole/double-throw
switches for eons when they backfeed in an emergency.

Gideon

=============


Those huge double-pole/double-throw switches you mentioned are transfer
switches. By definition a "back feed" involves sending current through
a circuit from a point on the circuit that is not it's normal source of
supply.
--
Tom Horne

Well we aren't no thin blue heroes and yet we aren't no blackguards to.
We're just working men and woman most remarkable like you.


Wouldn't a double pole cutoff be insufficient? I assumed the neutral must
also be disconnected from the power company's outside line. Isn't it going
to be carrying current when the generator is running?

First, does your generator put out 220 volts?

Second, what's the amps draw of the AC? 10 seer AC come in different sizes,
y'know.

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
..
..


"IC_Clearly" wrote in message
...
I have a portable generator that is rated at 7,500 watts run and about
14,000 start. I have a 10 seer (sp?) central AC. Is it possible to run the
AC from the generator if nothing elese is attached to the generator?

Thanks.

IC