first try a new start capacitor

it's cheap (about $10)





"Ignoramus23077" wrote in message
...
I have an A/C that sometimes (rarely) fails to start. I learned that
what cures it is going outside and giving it a slight, loving
kick. Then it starts.

It seems like a simple problem, maybe a solenoid getting stuck or some
such. Any thoughts?

i

--

"Ignoramus23077" wrote in
message ...
I have an A/C that sometimes (rarely) fails to start. I learned that
what cures it is going outside and giving it a slight, loving
kick. Then it starts.

It seems like a simple problem, maybe a solenoid getting stuck or
some
such. Any thoughts?

i


A few-dirty contactor points, flaky compressor overload

"Ignoramus9394" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 29 Jul 2005 09:51:09 -0400, Carolina Breeze HVAC
wrote:

"papaya" wrote in message
...
first try a new start capacitor

it's cheap (about $10)


LOL..yea, ok...that aint it and I cant see it from here.

BTW, wholesale on a GOOD 5-35-370 cap is over $25.
Replace that $14 contactor thats got pitted points first.


Carolina, can you please explain in a little mroe detail, I do not
understand what you are suggesting.

i


He's suggesting replacing the 220V contactor (relay) in the condensing
unit. Energized by 24VAC from the thermostat...

"Carolina Breeze HVAC" wrote in message
...

"Rick" wrote in message
nk.net...

"Ignoramus9394" wrote in
message
...
On Fri, 29 Jul 2005 09:51:09 -0400, Carolina Breeze HVAC
wrote:

"papaya" wrote in message
...
first try a new start capacitor

it's cheap (about $10)


LOL..yea, ok...that aint it and I cant see it from here.

BTW, wholesale on a GOOD 5-35-370 cap is over $25.
Replace that $14 contactor thats got pitted points first.


Carolina, can you please explain in a little mroe detail, I do
not
understand what you are suggesting.

i


He's suggesting replacing the 220V contactor (relay) in the
condensing
unit. Energized by 24VAC from the thermostat...



Or at least remove the mashed ants from the contactor points...


Maybe a little "thermostat roulette" and cleaning them without
throwing the disconnect

"Carolina Breeze HVAC"


LOL..yea, ok...that aint it and I cant see it from here.

BTW, wholesale on a GOOD 5-35-370 cap is over $25.
Replace that $14 contactor thats got pitted points first.

Second that. I had to do some "kicking" to get my blower fan started.

Where do you get a contactor for that price? I'm serious.

Wanted to replace a badly corroded relay (contactor) for the furnace-a/c
blower and local place quoted $42. It's a Lennox furnace, but I asked for
generic, which the young lady had no idea about.
Rating: 24V Coil, Contacts 1.4 HP @ 240V

I ended up cleaning the contacts and it works fine, but it's corroded in
general, so a new one may not be a bad idea.

Rich

You're probably right. Good guess.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Ignoramus23077" wrote in message
...
I have an A/C that sometimes (rarely) fails to start. I learned that
what cures it is going outside and giving it a slight, loving
kick. Then it starts.

It seems like a simple problem, maybe a solenoid getting stuck or some
such. Any thoughts?

i

--

Ignoramus9394 wrote:

thanks, I will try to check it. Resolving intermittent problems is
always a hassle and guesswork.

There is no stuck solenoid, that was BAD guess. Stormin sometimes posts
to hear himself post.
You either have a sticking contactor, pitted contacts on the contactor,
a loose electrical connection, or a high or low pressure switch or other
safety switch not making good contact.

hvacrmedic


i

On Fri, 29 Jul 2005 03:15:00 GMT, Stormin Mormon wrote:

You're probably right. Good guess.


Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Ignoramus23077" wrote in message
.. .
I have an A/C that sometimes (rarely) fails to start. I learned that
what cures it is going outside and giving it a slight, loving
kick. Then it starts.

It seems like a simple problem, maybe a solenoid getting stuck or some
such. Any thoughts?

i

"papaya" wrote in message
...
first try a new start capacitor

it's cheap (about $10)


LOL..yea, ok...that aint it and I cant see it from here.

BTW, wholesale on a GOOD 5-35-370 cap is over $25.
Replace that $14 contactor thats got pitted points first.





"Ignoramus23077" wrote in message
...
I have an A/C that sometimes (rarely) fails to start. I learned that
what cures it is going outside and giving it a slight, loving
kick. Then it starts.

It seems like a simple problem, maybe a solenoid getting stuck or some
such. Any thoughts?

i

--

"Rick" wrote in message
nk.net...

"Ignoramus9394" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 29 Jul 2005 09:51:09 -0400, Carolina Breeze HVAC
wrote:

"papaya" wrote in message
...
first try a new start capacitor

it's cheap (about $10)


LOL..yea, ok...that aint it and I cant see it from here.

BTW, wholesale on a GOOD 5-35-370 cap is over $25.
Replace that $14 contactor thats got pitted points first.


Carolina, can you please explain in a little mroe detail, I do not
understand what you are suggesting.

i


He's suggesting replacing the 220V contactor (relay) in the condensing
unit. Energized by 24VAC from the thermostat...



Or at least remove the mashed ants from the contactor points...

"RichK" wrote in message
...

"Carolina Breeze HVAC"


LOL..yea, ok...that aint it and I cant see it from here.

BTW, wholesale on a GOOD 5-35-370 cap is over $25.
Replace that $14 contactor thats got pitted points first.

Second that. I had to do some "kicking" to get my blower fan started.

Where do you get a contactor for that price? I'm serious.

Johnstone supply....sometimes they have 10 packs of Funas brand contactors
for the incredible price of $5 each.
lol



Wanted to replace a badly corroded relay (contactor) for the furnace-a/c
blower and local place quoted $42. It's a Lennox furnace, but I asked for
generic, which the young lady had no idea about.
Rating: 24V Coil, Contacts 1.4 HP @ 240V

I ended up cleaning the contacts and it works fine, but it's corroded in
general, so a new one may not be a bad idea.

Rich

"Ignoramus27279" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 29 Jul 2005 00:04:53 -0500, RP wrote:


Ignoramus9394 wrote:

thanks, I will try to check it. Resolving intermittent problems is
always a hassle and guesswork.

There is no stuck solenoid, that was BAD guess. Stormin sometimes posts
to hear himself post.
You either have a sticking contactor, pitted contacts on the contactor,
a loose electrical connection, or a high or low pressure switch or other
safety switch not making good contact.

Well, the contactor has a solenoid inside, am I mistaken?

Mistaken, its on the outside..LOL

Stormin is a hack, period. Granted, hes persistant, but his advice over the
years has been dangerous at best, and for the most part, people that have a
clue, and want to have their item running correctly ignore him.
Im states that require a licence, he would have been stripped of it some
time ago.
Here, at best, he would be a class H felon.

Checking a contactor takes about 20 seconds total and thats including to see
if the oxidation on the points is such to prevent proper contact. You either
have bad contact, or you have a bad slide on the unit, so replace it and be
done with it.


i

Ignoramus27279 wrote:

On Fri, 29 Jul 2005 00:04:53 -0500, RP wrote:


Ignoramus9394 wrote:


thanks, I will try to check it. Resolving intermittent problems is
always a hassle and guesswork.

There is no stuck solenoid, that was BAD guess. Stormin sometimes posts
to hear himself post.
You either have a sticking contactor, pitted contacts on the contactor,
a loose electrical connection, or a high or low pressure switch or other
safety switch not making good contact.


Well, the contactor has a solenoid inside, am I mistaken?

The contactor is a solenoid actuated relay, but we don't say "stuck
solenoid" we say "stuck contactor". "Solenoid" when used by itself is
taken to mean "solenoid valve".

hvacrmedic

I certainly hope that one or more of us feels better, now that we are all
using correct terminology.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com



The contactor is a solenoid actuated relay, but we don't say "stuck
solenoid" we say "stuck contactor". "Solenoid" when used by itself is
taken to mean "solenoid valve".

Oh, I see. I meant the solenoid actuated contactor. Thank you for
correcting my terminology.

i

Don't quit your day job. You will never make it as a mind reader.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"RP" wrote in message
...


Stormin sometimes posts
to hear himself post.

hvacrmedic

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Don't quit your day job. You will never make it as a mind reader.

Thats ok Chris, you havent made it as a locksmith or AC tech.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"RP" wrote in message
...


Stormin sometimes posts
to hear himself post.

hvacrmedic

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1

On Mon, 01 Aug 2005 13:37:09 GMT, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I certainly hope that one or more of us feels better, now that we
are all using correct terminology.

Semantics...

"Solenoid" usually refers to solenoids operating fluid control
devices or mechanical linkages, while "contactor" refers to a
solenoid acting upon an armature fitted to switch contacts, and
"relay" refers to a coil around a non-moving mass, which attracts a
magnetic armature which contains switching elements by means of
magnetic attraction to a pole piece, which technically isn't a
solenoid.

I am making it sound ridiculous to prove a point (but just *what* the
point is, I haven't a clue).

g,d,r

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
Version: PGP 7.1

iQA/AwUBQu6yTQIk7T39FC4ZEQJkZgCfRdEeGxxfsKdRbBk1VxXNoc YSg5sAoMsP
9cmzagKCm5X6vuZXujnufBcG
=qWdt
-----END PGP SIGNATURE-----

--
-john
wide-open at throttle dot info

Stormin Mormon posted for all of us...
I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.


Don't quit your day job. You will never make it as a mind reader.

If only you had a mind to read...
--

Tekkie