I was wondering if someone could enlighten me. In all that I've read about
bathroom exhausts, most of the time it talks about using the soffit to
exhaust the vapour.

However, I talked to a friend and he said to avoid that, because it builds
moisture under the endge of the roof. I'd be better off with a roof vent.

Could someone please give me some feedback on this?

TIA

MP wrote:
I was wondering if someone could enlighten me. In all that I've read
about bathroom exhausts, most of the time it talks about using the
soffit to exhaust the vapour.

However, I talked to a friend and he said to avoid that, because it
builds moisture under the endge of the roof. I'd be better off with a
roof vent.
Could someone please give me some feedback on this?

TIA

First never exhaust a bath vent to the soffit area. The natural air
flow will keep it from going out the soffit and you will just build up
moisture in your attic. Not good

I suggest you avoid venting it through the soffit. In this case since
the natural flow of air is from the soffit to the higher roof vents it will
tend to get sucked into the nearest soffit vent and cause the same problem,
but to a lesser degree.


--
Joseph Meehan

Dia's Muire duit

"twfsa" wrote in message
news:JkY4e.12$wL.11@lakeread07...
I just replaced mine from a 50 cfm to 130 cfm vented it to the soffit where
there was a vent, however before I did this I started to notice roofs in
the neighborhood looking for roof vents, can't say that I seen any. Thats
not saying that the soffit is the best.If the roof vent is best, there not
that expensive, why are there not more of them out there.

It is good practice to hide vents by putting them on roof at the back of the
house, where they are more or less invisible from the street. This may (or
may not) be why you can't see vents from the street.


When I re-roof I'll look where mine is vented to see if there is any mold
or rot.

Tom

If your neighborhood is like mine, most of the houses were built by the same
developer around the same time. As such they all share certain details. In
my case most single story houses vent through the roof as well as second
story baths but first story baths vent through the wall. Some baths with
windows have no vent at all.

I think the preferred method it to do whatever is easiest and still satisfy
code which says the vent must be a certain distance from any window or door
openings (this may also include soffit vent openings but I am not sure) and
a certain distance from property line. (sorry I don't recall that distance).
I believe back draft prevention device is also required (a flap)

Regardless of location, install vent pipe all the way to the outside.





"MP" wrote in message
...
I was wondering if someone could enlighten me. In all that I've read about
bathroom exhausts, most of the time it talks about using the soffit to
exhaust the vapour.

However, I talked to a friend and he said to avoid that, because it builds
moisture under the endge of the roof. I'd be better off with a roof vent.

Could someone please give me some feedback on this?

TIA

On Wed, 6 Apr 2005 17:02:59 -0400, "MP"
wrote:

I was wondering if someone could enlighten me. In all that I've read about
bathroom exhausts, most of the time it talks about using the soffit to
exhaust the vapour.

However, I talked to a friend and he said to avoid that, because it builds
moisture under the endge of the roof. I'd be better off with a roof vent.

Could someone please give me some feedback on this?

TIA

Do you have existing roof vents? If so you can route your vent
hose to the edge of an existing vent and staple it in place. This
allows most of the exhaust to escape and still allows the roof vent
to function as originally designed.

I assume this method is not to code but, I have used this method for
more five years now without any moisture damage to any part of the
vent area or the roof.

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 6 Apr 2005 17:02:59 -0400, "MP"
wrote:

I assume this method is not to code but, I have used this method for
more five years now without any moisture damage to any part of the vent
area or the roof.

Whatta ya mean "not to code", it's up to mine. I've had mine that way for 4
years with no problems. RM~

On Wed, 6 Apr 2005 19:38:01 -0500, "Rob Mills"
wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 6 Apr 2005 17:02:59 -0400, "MP"
wrote:

I assume this method is not to code but, I have used this method for
more five years now without any moisture damage to any part of the vent
area or the roof.

Whatta ya mean "not to code", it's up to mine. I've had mine that way for 4
years with no problems. RM~

I believe the code is that you have to have a separate vent
exclusively used for the exhaust.

Thanks for all your input. I will most likely install a roof vent, doing it
right the first time (unlike the "contractor" that did the extenstion on the
house).

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 6 Apr 2005 19:38:01 -0500, "Rob Mills"
wrote:


wrote in message
. ..
On Wed, 6 Apr 2005 17:02:59 -0400, "MP"
wrote:

I assume this method is not to code but, I have used this method for
more five years now without any moisture damage to any part of the
vent
area or the roof.

Whatta ya mean "not to code", it's up to mine. I've had mine that way for
4
years with no problems. RM~

I believe the code is that you have to have a separate vent
exclusively used for the exhaust.

Natual air flow??? What kind of air flow do you think you have coming
from the soffits to the roof line? Wind tunner perhaps? Not.

Soffit vents are generally (I am saying generally from the ones I have
seen) are a few feet apart. They are suppose to help with heat
escaping
in the summer and keeping the roof cold in the winter so water doesnt
prematurely melt and create an ice backup. (ice dam)

That being said, putting a 6" hole in the soffit isnt going to disrupt
anything.
The forced air from the fan will blow the exhaust right out the vent.
More
or less a few feet away. The 'Natural Flow" of the soffit doesnt even
come close to making a measureable vacume effect that would suck in the
exhaust from the vent in the soffit.

One thing that can also bit people in the butt is that when venting
moist
warm air vertically, you increase the chance of condensation flowing
back
in from the vent. Lots of insulation would be advisable. (not sure if
your in
a warm climate or cold)

Horizon. runs you can pitch so that the flow wont come back.

Just a thought...

Tom

P.S.... I personally HATE putting holes in the room. More holes, more
chance of
water coming in. Over the years, the moisture from the showers and
rust
from the vent cause some crappy looking roofs too (stains)

wrote:
Natual air flow??? What kind of air flow do you think you have
coming from the soffits to the roof line? Wind tunner perhaps? Not.

Soffit vents are generally (I am saying generally from the ones I have
seen) are a few feet apart. They are suppose to help with heat
escaping
in the summer and keeping the roof cold in the winter so water doesnt
prematurely melt and create an ice backup. (ice dam)

Correct. They help because the cooler heavier air come IN through the
soffit vents and the hot (lighter) air exits from the higher roof or gable
end vents. The natural air flow is UP.



That being said, putting a 6" hole in the soffit isnt going to disrupt
anything.
The forced air from the fan will blow the exhaust right out the vent.
More
or less a few feet away. The 'Natural Flow" of the soffit doesnt even
come close to making a measureable vacume effect that would suck in
the exhaust from the vent in the soffit.

All the air that does go through the system is "sucked" up through the
soffit vents. Where else do you think it is going to come from???


One thing that can also bit people in the butt is that when venting
moist
warm air vertically, you increase the chance of condensation flowing
back
in from the vent. Lots of insulation would be advisable. (not sure
if your in
a warm climate or cold)

That I can generally agree with.


Horizon. runs you can pitch so that the flow wont come back.

Of course you do need to provide somewhere for it to go. :-)


Just a thought...

Tom

P.S.... I personally HATE putting holes in the room. More holes,
more chance of
water coming in. Over the years, the moisture from the showers and
rust
from the vent cause some crappy looking roofs too (stains)

Good vents don't rust, but too much moisture does a great deal of damage
to homes.


--
Joseph Meehan

Dia's Muire duit

MP wrote:
I was wondering if someone could enlighten me. In all that I've read
about
bathroom exhausts, most of the time it talks about using the soffit
to
exhaust the vapour.

However, I talked to a friend and he said to avoid that, because it
builds
moisture under the endge of the roof. I'd be better off with a roof
vent.

Could someone please give me some feedback on this?

TIA

Here's one other possibility that I did: Our second floor bathroom
happens to be directly under an attic dormer. I ran the fan exhaust a
couple feet to the side to be directly under the dormer wall, and then
up a few feet into the dormer wall. It vents out the side of the
dormer wall. Seems to be the best combination to me, that the vent
pipe rises continuously, and then vents out the wall with no roof
penetration.

Ken

Joseph Meehan wrote:

All the air that does go through the system is "sucked" up through the
soffit vents. Where else do you think it is going to come from???
AND out the ridge vents, which you must have for all the reasons mentioned.

One thing that can also bit people in the butt is that when venting
moist
warm air vertically, you increase the chance of condensation flowing
back
in from the vent.
In winter especially the relative humidity of the vented air drops
dramatically. Even in summer with humid outside air, if it isn't
raining in your attic, the fan exhause won't start it.

Lots of insulation would be advisable. (not sure
if your in
a warm climate or cold)
That I can generally agree with.
I disagree. Insulation does not add heat. It is a barrier that
prevents heat flow. Your insulation layer is what divides "inside" from
"outside". Your attic should be outside so the insulation must be
on/under the attic floor. That insulation will not affect far exhaust
into the attic.

why do you want a bathroom vent anyway...

in the winter, the humidity is good to keep in the house

in the summer, open the window

Mark

William W. Plummer wrote:
Joseph Meehan wrote:

All the air that does go through the system is "sucked" up
through the soffit vents. Where else do you think it is going to
come from???
AND out the ridge vents, which you must have for all the reasons
mentioned.

And in-between it will leave moisture in the attic. Not good!


One thing that can also bit people in the butt is that when venting
moist
warm air vertically, you increase the chance of condensation flowing
back
in from the vent.
In winter especially the relative humidity of the vented air drops
dramatically. Even in summer with humid outside air, if it isn't
raining in your attic, the fan exhause won't start it.

We are talking about a bathroom fan.


Lots of insulation would be advisable. (not sure
if your in
a warm climate or cold)
That I can generally agree with.
I disagree. Insulation does not add heat. It is a barrier that
prevents heat flow.

I believe you snipped a little too much and lost the context.

"One thing that can also bit people in the butt is that when venting
moist warm air vertically, you increase the chance of condensation flowing
back in from the vent. Lots of insulation would be advisable."

So it appears Bocestb was suggesting insulation around the duct to keep
it warm (not add heat as it would already be warm) to reduce condensation.

Your insulation layer is what divides "inside"
from "outside". Your attic should be outside so the insulation must
be on/under the attic floor. That insulation will not affect far
exhaust into the attic.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia's Muire duit