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#1
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Hello,
Ideas please? A small professional UV box with two 8W tubes will cost about £100, and is, professionally made and neat and tidy. I'm wondering if for sake of ease it would be easier to just go out and buy one? I've seen the UV "fly killer," tubes on eBay for say £10, which are mentioned in a few of the tutorials online. Ballasts I have at home somewhere. Would need a neat little case, cut glass, switches, bits bobs, and time. This is all purely for making the odd PCB so nothing commercial. There's also those little UV nail boxes for curing the plastic, they're only about £20 although I wonder about even coverage with those, and if indeed it is the right type of UV? Circular tubes? U-shaped tubes? Straight tubes? Little 9W dual parallel tubes? I'm just wondering in the end if it would be easier to just buy one, although that's not really in keeping with the spirit of diy. Many thanks for any input, I'm just looking for ideas and opinons really. I'd also be half tempted to put in regular tubes too so that it can be used as a light box. Friendly regards, Alison ps. There's this one at Rapid for £110 in a little kit; http://www.rapidonline.com/searchresults.aspx?style=0&kw=34-0690 |
#2
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Aly wrote:
Hello, Ideas please? A small professional UV box with two 8W tubes will cost about �100, and is, professionally made and neat and tidy. I'm wondering if for sake of ease it would be easier to just go out and buy one? I've seen the UV "fly killer," tubes on eBay for say �10, which are mentioned in a few of the tutorials online. Ballasts I have at home somewhere. Would need a neat little case, cut glass, switches, bits bobs, and time. This is all purely for making the odd PCB so nothing commercial. There's also those little UV nail boxes for curing the plastic, they're only about �20 although I wonder about even coverage with those, and if indeed it is the right type of UV? Circular tubes? U-shaped tubes? Straight tubes? Little 9W dual parallel tubes? I'm just wondering in the end if it would be easier to just buy one, although that's not really in keeping with the spirit of diy. Many thanks for any input, I'm just looking for ideas and opinons really. I'd also be half tempted to put in regular tubes too so that it can be used as a light box. Friendly regards, Alison ps. There's this one at Rapid for �110 in a little kit; http://www.rapidonline.com/searchresults.aspx?style=0&kw=34-0690 Greetings, Just an alternative, but you said inputs are welcome :-) You could print the pcb-layout on a laser printer using this "glossy photo paper" eg "EPSON Photo Quality Glossy Paper type: SO41126". Next you take a normal _CLEAN_ pcb - not the photo sensitive type - put the paper on it and then simply ironing it on will transfer the layout to the pcb. Etchy - Etchy - Etchy and you have your pcb. As long as you keep the tracks / spacings 25 mils you should be ok. It is cheaper than buying the above mentioned kit but produces it bit more coarse pcbs. One more alternative is www.olimex.com. They produce a Euro-card for you for $ 56 including P&P. Chees RaceMouse |
#3
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![]() "Aly" schreef in bericht ... Hello, Ideas please? A small professional UV box with two 8W tubes will cost about £100, and is, professionally made and neat and tidy. I'm wondering if for sake of ease it would be easier to just go out and buy one? I've seen the UV "fly killer," tubes on eBay for say £10, which are mentioned in a few of the tutorials online. Ballasts I have at home somewhere. Would need a neat little case, cut glass, switches, bits bobs, and time. This is all purely for making the odd PCB so nothing commercial. There's also those little UV nail boxes for curing the plastic, they're only about £20 although I wonder about even coverage with those, and if indeed it is the right type of UV? Circular tubes? U-shaped tubes? Straight tubes? Little 9W dual parallel tubes? I'm just wondering in the end if it would be easier to just buy one, although that's not really in keeping with the spirit of diy. Many thanks for any input, I'm just looking for ideas and opinons really. I'd also be half tempted to put in regular tubes too so that it can be used as a light box. Friendly regards, Alison ps. There's this one at Rapid for £110 in a little kit; http://www.rapidonline.com/searchresults.aspx?style=0&kw=34-0690 The DIY spirit found a real cheap method some years ago. Use an obsolete face tanner and an old scanner. An example can be found on http://gathering.tweakers.net/forum/...ages/730455/// Although the text is Dutch, the pictures tell the story. I build one this way. Bought scanner and tanner for less then $15,-- on a flee market. The only extras were some pieces of scrapwood, some wire, two screws and piece of hot melt glue. Works like a charm. Two minutes exposure is enough to get perfect PCBs. You only must make sure that your positives are pitchblack. My printer, although perfect in normal printing, does not make the artwork black enough. I have to stack two sheets to block the UV. petrus bitbyter |
#4
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On Apr 6, 6:05 am, "Aly" wrote:
somewhere. Would need a neat little case, cut glass, switches, bits bobs, You need _quartz_ glass to pass all UV. Apart from this issue, all the mechanical needs are satisfied by taking an old scanner and removing the innards; put the UV tubes and reflector inside where the scan mechanism used to go, and put your PCB on the glass, then close the lid. Many thanks for any input, I'm just looking for ideas and opinons really. I'd also be half tempted to put in regular tubes too so that it can be used as a light box. Not advisable. If you're building a UV box, you should interlock it so that the tubes cannot come on while the lid is open. There are fun ways of going blind, and dumb ways... stick to the fun ways. |
#5
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![]() "larwe" schreef in bericht oups.com... On Apr 6, 6:05 am, "Aly" wrote: somewhere. Would need a neat little case, cut glass, switches, bits bobs, You need _quartz_ glass to pass all UV. Apart from this issue, all the mechanical needs are satisfied by taking an old scanner and removing the innards; put the UV tubes and reflector inside where the scan mechanism used to go, and put your PCB on the glass, then close the lid. Many thanks for any input, I'm just looking for ideas and opinons really. I'd also be half tempted to put in regular tubes too so that it can be used as a light box. Not advisable. If you're building a UV box, you should interlock it so that the tubes cannot come on while the lid is open. There are fun ways of going blind, and dumb ways... stick to the fun ways. _Quartz_ glass? I was told so very often. But the glas of scanner is apparently good enough. Face tanners have no lid. So the need for an interlock will not be that strong. Nevertheless you should not look into the light. If you want to tan your face with it, you need to keep your eyes closed. The light can do serious damage to your eyes. petrus bitbyter |
#6
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![]() "larwe" wrote in message oups.com... On Apr 6, 6:05 am, "Aly" wrote: somewhere. Would need a neat little case, cut glass, switches, bits bobs, You need _quartz_ glass to pass all UV. Apart from this issue, all the mechanical needs are satisfied by taking an old scanner and removing the innards; put the UV tubes and reflector inside where the scan mechanism used to go, and put your PCB on the glass, then close the lid. Are scanner glasses usually quartz glass? I have an old scanner here now.... |
#7
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"Aly" wrote in message
... Hello, SNIP Thank you to those who are replying. I'm following with interest. At the moment I'm swaying towards the £100 for sake of ease. Oh, printer, photo inkjet, transparances, Brother DCP-340CW apparently 1200x6000dpi... we'll see about that. :-) Aly Aly :-) |
#8
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On 6 Apr, 11:05, "Aly" wrote:
Hello, Ideas please? A small professional UV box with two 8W tubes will cost about £100, and is, professionally made and neat and tidy. I'm wondering if for sake of ease it would be easier to just go out and buy one? I've seen the UV "fly killer," tubes on eBay for say £10, which are mentioned in a few of the tutorials online. Ballasts I have at home somewhere. Would need a neat little case, cut glass, switches, bits bobs, and time. This is all purely for making the odd PCB so nothing commercial. There's also those little UV nail boxes for curing the plastic, they're only about £20 although I wonder about even coverage with those, and if indeed it is the right type of UV? Circular tubes? U-shaped tubes? Straight tubes? Little 9W dual parallel tubes? I'm just wondering in the end if it would be easier to just buy one, although that's not really in keeping with the spirit of diy. Many thanks for any input, I'm just looking for ideas and opinons really. I'd also be half tempted to put in regular tubes too so that it can be used as a light box. Friendly regards, Alison ps. There's this one at Rapid for £110 in a little kit; http://www.rapidonline.com/searchresults.aspx?style=0&kw=34-0690 I built one using two UV tubes in standard 12" fluorescent fittings, with a box made from MDF and a sheet of glass. It cost me about 20 GBP. Leon |
#9
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On 6 Apr, 12:03, "larwe" wrote:
On Apr 6, 6:05 am, "Aly" wrote: somewhere. Would need a neat little case, cut glass, switches, bits bobs, You need _quartz_ glass to pass all UV. Apart from this issue, all the mechanical needs are satisfied by taking an old scanner and removing the innards; put the UV tubes and reflector inside where the scan mechanism used to go, and put your PCB on the glass, then close the lid. Many thanks for any input, I'm just looking for ideas and opinons really. I'd also be half tempted to put in regular tubes too so that it can be used as a light box. Not advisable. If you're building a UV box, you should interlock it so that the tubes cannot come on while the lid is open. There are fun ways of going blind, and dumb ways... stick to the fun ways. You don't need quartz, ordinary window glass is transparent to the long-wave UV used for PCB exposure. The light isn't particularly hazardous. Leon |
#10
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On 6 Apr, 14:54, "Aly" wrote:
"Aly" wrote in message ... Hello, SNIP Thank you to those who are replying. I'm following with interest. At the moment I'm swaying towards the £100 for sake of ease. Oh, printer, photo inkjet, transparances, Brother DCP-340CW apparently 1200x6000dpi... we'll see about that. :-) Aly Aly :-) I use an HP 5940 printer with JetStar premium film, results are excellent. Leon |
#11
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On Fri, 6 Apr 2007 11:05:04 +0100, "Aly"
wrote: Hello, Ideas please? A small professional UV box with two 8W tubes will cost about £100, and is, professionally made and neat and tidy. I'm wondering if for sake of ease it would be easier to just go out and buy one? I've seen the UV "fly killer," tubes on eBay for say £10, which are mentioned in a few of the tutorials online. Ballasts I have at home somewhere. Would need a neat little case, cut glass, switches, bits bobs, and time. This is all purely for making the odd PCB so nothing commercial. There's also those little UV nail boxes for curing the plastic, they're only about £20 although I wonder about even coverage with those, and if indeed it is the right type of UV? Circular tubes? U-shaped tubes? Straight tubes? Little 9W dual parallel tubes? I'm just wondering in the end if it would be easier to just buy one, although that's not really in keeping with the spirit of diy. Many thanks for any input, I'm just looking for ideas and opinons really. I'd also be half tempted to put in regular tubes too so that it can be used as a light box. I don't use the photo method much anymore, but for many years I did it wifh a UV tanning floodlamp in one of those clamp-on utility lights with a spun aluminum reflector. I'd lay the PCB on a piece of plywood on the floor, with the artwork taped over it and a sheet of ordinary window glass on top to make sure everything was flat. The tanning light was clamped to the back of a chair so it was 2-3 feet from the work, and pointing straight down at the center of the board. True, that plain glass probably blocked some UV, but so what? The tanning flood puts out a ton of it, and you don't really want a super-short exposure here. Several minutes is fine, since it gives you some room to adjust exposure times. Best regards, Bob Masta D A Q A R T A Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis www.daqarta.com Scope, Spectrum, Spectrogram, Signal Generator Science with your sound card! |
#12
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On Apr 6, 9:09 am, "petrus bitbyter"
wrote: _Quartz_ glass? I was told so very often. But the glas of scanner is apparently good enough. It depends on the UV wavelength required for this application, I assumed it was rather short-wave. Below 170nm or so quartz glass is really necessary. Germicidal lamps have a quartz envelope. |
#13
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"Aly" wrote in message
... Hello, What nM are we talking about for photoresist exposure? I'm looking at UV LEDs on eBay at the moment. 150mcd, about 400nM. Search for inside the brackets. ( UV "LEDs" ) to weed out the other stuff. |
#14
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![]() "Aly" wrote in message ... "Aly" wrote in message ... Hello, What nM are we talking about for photoresist exposure? I'm looking at UV LEDs on eBay at the moment. 150mcd, about 400nM. Search for inside the brackets. ( UV "LEDs" ) to weed out the other stuff. Not sure they have the intensity needed for etching, youd probably need hundreds of them lol. That said they're fairly cheap. |
#15
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On 6 Apr, 16:49, "Aly" wrote:
"Aly" wrote in message ... Hello, What nM are we talking about for photoresist exposure? I'm looking at UV LEDs on eBay at the moment. 150mcd, about 400nM. Search for inside the brackets. ( UV "LEDs" ) to weed out the other stuff. UV LEDs can work, Elektor mag. had a design a few months ago. Leon |
#16
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On Fri, 6 Apr 2007 11:05:04 +0100, "Aly"
wrote: Hello, Ideas please? A small professional UV box with two 8W tubes will cost about £100, and is, professionally made and neat and tidy. I'm wondering if for sake of ease it would be easier to just go out and buy one? I've seen the UV "fly killer," tubes on eBay for say £10, which are mentioned in a few of the tutorials online. Ballasts I have at home somewhere. Would need a neat little case, cut glass, switches, bits bobs, and time. This is all purely for making the odd PCB so nothing commercial. There's also those little UV nail boxes for curing the plastic, they're only about £20 although I wonder about even coverage with those, and if indeed it is the right type of UV? Circular tubes? U-shaped tubes? Straight tubes? Little 9W dual parallel tubes? I'm just wondering in the end if it would be easier to just buy one, although that's not really in keeping with the spirit of diy. Many thanks for any input, I'm just looking for ideas and opinons really. I'd also be half tempted to put in regular tubes too so that it can be used as a light box. For the occasional home made PCB, I find that the sun works much better than any UV tube. Depending on the time of day, I normally expose pre-coated PCB material for 20 to 80 seconds. This works quite well and it is fairly easy to produce boards with 12thou tracks with 12thou clearance. With a bit more care, one can do 10 thou. I have used a UV box bought from RS Components in the past, but I found the sun to give better results. Regards Anton Erasmus |
#17
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On Fri, 6 Apr 2007 11:05:04 +0100, "Aly"
wrote: Hello, Ideas please? A small professional UV box with two 8W tubes will cost about £100, and is, professionally made and neat and tidy. I'm wondering if for sake of ease it would be easier to just go out and buy one? I've seen the UV "fly killer," tubes on eBay for say £10, which are mentioned in a few of the tutorials online. Ballasts I have at home somewhere. Would need a neat little case, cut glass, switches, bits bobs, and time. This is all purely for making the odd PCB so nothing commercial. There's also those little UV nail boxes for curing the plastic, they're only about £20 although I wonder about even coverage with those, and if indeed it is the right type of UV? Circular tubes? U-shaped tubes? Straight tubes? Little 9W dual parallel tubes? I'm just wondering in the end if it would be easier to just buy one, although that's not really in keeping with the spirit of diy. Many thanks for any input, I'm just looking for ideas and opinons really. I'd also be half tempted to put in regular tubes too so that it can be used as a light box. Friendly regards, Alison ps. There's this one at Rapid for £110 in a little kit; http://www.rapidonline.com/searchresults.aspx?style=0&kw=34-0690 A light box is about the worst possible way to expose pcb's. To get good resolution, you need sharp shadows hence collimated light. The typical light box is a maze of position-dependent blurs. The light source should be far away from the film and the board, not close. Get a bright light with decent UV concentration. A 175 watt warehouse-type mercury vapor lamp is ideal, and perfectly safe. Mount it about 3 feet above a table and add a bit of foil on top if it deosn't already have a reflector. Place the pcb, film, and a top piece of glass or plexiglass, on the table. Try 10 minutes to start. This will cast much sharper shadows than any light box can. A tanning lamp isn't bad, and they're cheap. The sun is pretty far away, too. John |
#18
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"John Larkin" wrote in message
... SNIP A light box is about the worst possible way to expose pcb's. To get good resolution, you need sharp shadows hence collimated light. The typical light box is a maze of position-dependent blurs. The light source should be far away from the film and the board, not close. Get a bright light with decent UV concentration. A 175 watt warehouse-type mercury vapor lamp is ideal, and perfectly safe. Mount it about 3 feet above a table and add a bit of foil on top if it deosn't already have a reflector. Place the pcb, film, and a top piece of glass or plexiglass, on the table. Try 10 minutes to start. This will cast much sharper shadows than any light box can. A tanning lamp isn't bad, and they're cheap. The sun is pretty far away, too. John Hi John, Noted. Tell you what I do have.. A full size sunbed in the bathroom, hold on.. Eight 100W 6' tubes. I've just been playing with the idea of fitting one of those small 25W 9" U-shaped tubes in a 12"x10"x5" flight case, or an 22W 8" circular tube. But with what you've said here it's made me wonder.. Thanks again (and to everyone) Aly :-) |
#19
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On Fri, 6 Apr 2007 21:35:34 +0100, "Aly"
wrote: "John Larkin" wrote in message .. . SNIP A light box is about the worst possible way to expose pcb's. To get good resolution, you need sharp shadows hence collimated light. The typical light box is a maze of position-dependent blurs. The light source should be far away from the film and the board, not close. Get a bright light with decent UV concentration. A 175 watt warehouse-type mercury vapor lamp is ideal, and perfectly safe. Mount it about 3 feet above a table and add a bit of foil on top if it deosn't already have a reflector. Place the pcb, film, and a top piece of glass or plexiglass, on the table. Try 10 minutes to start. This will cast much sharper shadows than any light box can. A tanning lamp isn't bad, and they're cheap. The sun is pretty far away, too. John Hi John, Noted. Tell you what I do have.. A full size sunbed in the bathroom, hold on.. Eight 100W 6' tubes. Yikes! Skin damage! Look good now, look like Brigitte Bardot later in life. I've just been playing with the idea of fitting one of those small 25W 9" U-shaped tubes in a 12"x10"x5" flight case, or an 22W 8" circular tube. But with what you've said here it's made me wonder.. Thanks again (and to everyone) Aly :-) If you have proper emulsion-down film and good clamping to the board (say, felt below and flat glass above) a light box can be OK. Just keep in mind that the exposure will not be very uniform, and light will be coming in at all sorts of goofy angles. John |
#20
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On Apr 6, 6:05 am, "Aly" wrote:
Hello, Ideas please? I guess this idea is also not in the spirit of DIY, but getting PCBs made has gotten pretty inexpensive lately. I saw an ad the other day for a double sided board with plated through holes for $26 even at qty 1 for a first time customer. Olimex in Europe has some very low rates for small quantities, but I have not looked into them in detail. Is this a cost thing or just a fun thing to make your own PCB lab? |
#21
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"rickman" wrote in message
oups.com... On Apr 6, 6:05 am, "Aly" wrote: Hello, Ideas please? I guess this idea is also not in the spirit of DIY, but getting PCBs made has gotten pretty inexpensive lately. I saw an ad the other day for a double sided board with plated through holes for $26 even at qty 1 for a first time customer. Olimex in Europe has some very low rates for small quantities, but I have not looked into them in detail. Is this a cost thing or just a fun thing to make your own PCB lab? UK prices are hideously expensive, like £200+ ($400) for 5 eurocards with a 2-week turnaround. Trouble with Olimex is that I'm not giving my credit card number to anyone in Bulgaria nor using Western Union. The problem with the UK is that it's just such total rip off. I was charged £13 ($26) the other day for buying something in the States costing £22. This country is just a dump. Looking at UV tubes right now.. £10 for single 12" UV tube. £10!! That's the cheapest round here where I can just walk in and buy. If I go to B&Q/Homebase they're about £20 and in fancy packaging with party goers all over them. I dumped a load of laptop LCD screens at the rubbish tip the other day and had some jobsworth telling me I'd put them in the wrong bin, "they're LCD screens," I said pointing at the big plasma displays in there. He wanted me to put them in the metal bin as they were computers. Erm, no, they're all plastic you argumentative turd. "Do you want me to dump them in a lay by perhaps?" That's what all the sane people are doing. Go for a walk in the countryside, trip over a saucepan! I HATE this bloody country. :-( Where I can't send my kids out to play football without some council official bringing them home saying they don't have insurance. Wot!! Insurance. *rants* :-) That was meant to be slightly humourous of course. But really, the UK has just gone mad. You can't do anything if it isn't approved, stamped and monitored. |
#22
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Aly wrote:
:-) That was meant to be slightly humourous of course. But really, the UK has just gone mad. You can't do anything if it isn't approved, stamped and monitored. "Really mad cow disease in England: Cow: I say old chap, MOOOO!!! ;-) -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida |
#23
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"John Larkin" wrote in message
... keep in mind that the exposure will not be very uniform, and light will be coming in at all sorts of goofy angles. John I'm very interested in this angles scenario I must say. I can imagine that in alot of boxes the tubes are just too close. They're like 1-2cms from the board. That can't be good. At a guess I'd say 5cm is better yet I don't know what I'm talking about admittedly. At 1-cm though, that's just too intense. |
#24
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On Sat, 7 Apr 2007 22:30:59 +0100, "Aly"
wrote: "rickman" wrote in message roups.com... On Apr 6, 6:05 am, "Aly" wrote: Hello, Ideas please? I guess this idea is also not in the spirit of DIY, but getting PCBs made has gotten pretty inexpensive lately. I saw an ad the other day for a double sided board with plated through holes for $26 even at qty 1 for a first time customer. Olimex in Europe has some very low rates for small quantities, but I have not looked into them in detail. Is this a cost thing or just a fun thing to make your own PCB lab? UK prices are hideously expensive, like £200+ ($400) for 5 eurocards with a 2-week turnaround. Trouble with Olimex is that I'm not giving my credit card number to anyone in Bulgaria nor using Western Union. The problem with the UK is that it's just such total rip off. I was charged £13 ($26) the other day for buying something in the States costing £22. This country is just a dump. Looking at UV tubes right now.. £10 for single 12" UV tube. £10!! That's the cheapest round here where I can just walk in and buy. If I go to B&Q/Homebase they're about £20 and in fancy packaging with party goers all over them. I dumped a load of laptop LCD screens at the rubbish tip the other day and had some jobsworth telling me I'd put them in the wrong bin, "they're LCD screens," I said pointing at the big plasma displays in there. He wanted me to put them in the metal bin as they were computers. Erm, no, they're all plastic you argumentative turd. "Do you want me to dump them in a lay by perhaps?" That's what all the sane people are doing. Go for a walk in the countryside, trip over a saucepan! I HATE this bloody country. :-( Where I can't send my kids out to play football without some council official bringing them home saying they don't have insurance. Wot!! Insurance. *rants* :-) That was meant to be slightly humourous of course. But really, the UK has just gone mad. You can't do anything if it isn't approved, stamped and monitored. Yet the UK and Ireland are doing very well economically, much better than mainland Europe. I took my kid to a baseball practice and asked the coach if she could try out for the team. He told her "go to left field" and that was it. John |
#25
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"John Larkin" wrote in message
... SNIP Yet the UK and Ireland are doing very well economically, much better than mainland Europe. I took my kid to a baseball practice and asked the coach if she could try out for the team. He told her "go to left field" and that was it. John Most of the money coming here doesn't really exist, it's all offset by the amazing amounts of debt people are in. House prices may be £250k for a modern terrace, yet most of the possessions owned, cars sofas kitchens this that, are all bought on credit. Thus making it look like there's more disposable income, when in reality there isn't. Also we have alot of foreign money coming into the country, again further stimulating the current debt culture in an effort to afford everyday living. We're a bit like that bus at the end of The Italian Job with all of the gold balancing in it. Pleased to hear your DD did ok. Quite inspiring that. :-) Alison |
#26
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"Leon" wrote in message
oups.com... SNIP I use an HP 5940 printer with JetStar premium film, results are excellent. Leon Hi Leon, Noted :-) I'm going through this right now planning for what happens next. JetStar film from Rapid is the likely candidate. Thanks again, spotted your post here in a Google search. Alison |
#27
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Posted to alt.electronics,comp.arch.embedded,sci.electronics.basics,sci.electronics.misc
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On Apr 6, 11:05�am, "Aly" wrote:
Hello, Ideas please? A small professional UV box with two 8W tubes will cost about £100, and is, professionally made and neat and tidy. *I'm wondering if for sake of ease it would be easier to just go out and buy one? I've seen the UV "fly killer," tubes on eBay for say £10, which are mentioned in a few of the tutorials online. *Ballasts I have at home somewhere. *Would need a neat little case, cut glass, switches, bits bobs, and time. A photo frame and a sunny day works for me. Just dont get caught taking her picture out of it. |
#28
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Posted to alt.electronics
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Aly wrote:
Hello, Ideas please? A small professional UV box with two 8W tubes will cost about £100, and is, professionally made and neat and tidy. I'm wondering if for sake of ease it would be easier to just go out and buy one? I've seen the UV "fly killer," tubes on eBay for say £10, which are mentioned in a few of the tutorials online. Ballasts I have at home somewhere. Would need a neat little case, cut glass, switches, bits bobs, and time. This is all purely for making the odd PCB so nothing commercial. There's also those little UV nail boxes for curing the plastic, they're only about £20 although I wonder about even coverage with those, and if indeed it is the right type of UV? Circular tubes? U-shaped tubes? Straight tubes? Little 9W dual parallel tubes? I'm just wondering in the end if it would be easier to just buy one, although that's not really in keeping with the spirit of diy. Many thanks for any input, I'm just looking for ideas and opinons really. I'd also be half tempted to put in regular tubes too so that it can be used as a light box. Friendly regards, Alison ps. There's this one at Rapid for £110 in a little kit; http://www.rapidonline.com/searchresults.aspx?style=0&kw=34-0690 Only seen the thread today and don't have the patience to read all the contributions so apologies if this has been said elsewhe I built a UV box using a desk drawer as the case - approx 1' x 1'. I painted the inside gloss white, screwed the ballasts and spring clips to the interior and fixed 3 UV B tubes into the spring clips. When exposing a coated PCB I simply put the PCB on my desk, sandwiched the artwork onto it with a sheet of perspex and then placed the lightbox on top and left it cooking for the required time. Total cost was whatever the price of the tubes was. It was very cheap and only slightly nasty. I still have it (somewhere) but it never failed to produce adequate results. HTH Richard Richard |
#29
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Leon wrote:
Elektor mag. had a design a few months ago. Leon Wow! I have crates of back issues of Elektor from when I subscribed in the 80's - I didn't know it was still in print. Thanks! Richard |
#30
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Posted to alt.electronics
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Richard wrote:
Aly wrote: Hello, Ideas please? A small professional UV box with two 8W tubes will cost about £100, and is, professionally made and neat and tidy. I'm wondering if for sake of ease it would be easier to just go out and buy one? I've seen the UV "fly killer," tubes on eBay for say £10, which are mentioned in a few of the tutorials online. Ballasts I have at home somewhere. Would need a neat little case, cut glass, switches, bits bobs, and time. This is all purely for making the odd PCB so nothing commercial. There's also those little UV nail boxes for curing the plastic, they're only about £20 although I wonder about even coverage with those, and if indeed it is the right type of UV? Circular tubes? U-shaped tubes? Straight tubes? Little 9W dual parallel tubes? I'm just wondering in the end if it would be easier to just buy one, although that's not really in keeping with the spirit of diy. Many thanks for any input, I'm just looking for ideas and opinons really. I'd also be half tempted to put in regular tubes too so that it can be used as a light box. Friendly regards, Alison ps. There's this one at Rapid for £110 in a little kit; http://www.rapidonline.com/searchresults.aspx?style=0&kw=34-0690 Only seen the thread today and don't have the patience to read all the contributions so apologies if this has been said elsewhe I built a UV box using a desk drawer as the case - approx 1' x 1'. I painted the inside gloss white, screwed the ballasts and spring clips to the interior and fixed 3 UV B tubes into the spring clips. When exposing a coated PCB I simply put the PCB on my desk, sandwiched the artwork onto it with a sheet of perspex and then placed the lightbox on top and left it cooking for the required time. Total cost was whatever the price of the tubes was. It was very cheap and only slightly nasty. I still have it (somewhere) but it never failed to produce adequate results. HTH Richard Richard Thought I'd drag this up again having found the likes of this on ebay: http://tinyurl.com/2qxgyk I'm getting tired of etching with acids etc - I have a spare scanner body (inc glass) sitting around and lots of acetate I can print onto. Are this sort of bulb the correct wavelength for etching? |
#31
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Posted to alt.electronics
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Coyoteboy said:
I'm getting tired of etching with acids etc - I have a spare scanner body (inc glass) sitting around and lots of acetate I can print onto. Are this sort of bulb the correct wavelength for etching? I have a couple of these, USB scanners a well and would also like to know about this. It could be a very cheap way to create a lightbox. Thanks: -- Best Regards: Baron. |
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