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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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Digital Camera TFT screen - where can I get one?
Hi,
Wondering if anyone can help. I've got a faulty 2" LCD TFT screen on a Konica digital camera. I've taken the screen out and it is a Casio part. I've spoken to Casio and they won't sell the part unless I reference the Casio product it would go in otherwise I have to go to Konica (who don't sell parts at all as far as I can see). Now, I suspect that the same screen may go in a Casio EX-Z40 (and others) but am not 100% sure. Would the ribbon cable connection be different for the Konica model? The part number sticker on the faulty screen is: 4H20888042769 Anyone out there got a clue or know where I could source the part elsewhere? Any help appreciated. Thanks. |
#2
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I have been repairing digi cameras for a couple of years and the only source
that I have found for these LCD's is getting them from broken camera's that have unrepairable problem, but the LCD is still intact. Jan -- jankro (@) saunalahti (.) fi Please notice my new address! Osoitteeni on muuttunut, oikea on yllä. "daddy" wrote in message om... Hi, Wondering if anyone can help. I've got a faulty 2" LCD TFT screen on a Konica digital camera. I've taken the screen out and it is a Casio part. I've spoken to Casio and they won't sell the part unless I reference the Casio product it would go in otherwise I have to go to Konica (who don't sell parts at all as far as I can see). Now, I suspect that the same screen may go in a Casio EX-Z40 (and others) but am not 100% sure. Would the ribbon cable connection be different for the Konica model? The part number sticker on the faulty screen is: 4H20888042769 Anyone out there got a clue or know where I could source the part elsewhere? Any help appreciated. Thanks. |
#3
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"JMK" jankro (@) saunalahti (.) fi wrote in message ... I have been repairing digi cameras for a couple of years and the only source that I have found for these LCD's is getting them from broken camera's that have unrepairable problem, but the LCD is still intact. Jan -- jankro (@) saunalahti (.) fi Please notice my new address! Osoitteeni on muuttunut, oikea on yllä. "daddy" wrote in message om... Hi, Wondering if anyone can help. I've got a faulty 2" LCD TFT screen on a Konica digital camera. I've taken the screen out and it is a Casio part. I've spoken to Casio and they won't sell the part unless I reference the Casio product it would go in otherwise I have to go to Konica (who don't sell parts at all as far as I can see). Now, I suspect that the same screen may go in a Casio EX-Z40 (and others) but am not 100% sure. Would the ribbon cable connection be different for the Konica model? The part number sticker on the faulty screen is: 4H20888042769 Anyone out there got a clue or know where I could source the part elsewhere? Any help appreciated. Thanks. Sorry, I just now noticed the end of your post ;-) I have just used a 2" LCD from a Konica to repair a HP Photosmart 850. As far as I have been able to find out, there are two things to watch for: 1- LCD backlight, is it cold cathode tube or LED, the power supply is different and the display polarity (polarizer) is also different. 2- If the cable is same width, with same number of contactors, it may work. Some just have electrical characteristics different and won't work. All you can do is try. I have swapped backlights and LCD's with fairly good results. Jan |
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Cheers, Jan. You're obviously more knowledgeable than me, I'm not to
the point of knowing about cold cathodes or LED. Basically the screen was coming up very bright white but you could still see the pictures if you looked hard enough or side on. When I took off the back metal plate I could see a fine crack in the screen - I'm presuming this is the backlight? Thanks! |
#5
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If you separate the backlight from the LCD, is the crack in the backlight or
the front LCD part. If the backlight lights up, it's working OK. If the backlight does work, so the LCD screen is defective, especially if you can see a crack in it. Jan -- jankro (@) saunalahti (.) fi Please notice my new address! Osoitteeni on muuttunut, oikea on yllä. "daddyf" wrote in message oups.com... Cheers, Jan. You're obviously more knowledgeable than me, I'm not to the point of knowing about cold cathodes or LED. Basically the screen was coming up very bright white but you could still see the pictures if you looked hard enough or side on. When I took off the back metal plate I could see a fine crack in the screen - I'm presuming this is the backlight? Thanks! |
#6
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Ok, thanks mate. I'll have a closer look.
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#7
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I agree with the above posts. I was recently given a Fujifilm 2600 that
wouldn't power up. When I took it apart it was very modular: Power board, read/write board, LCD driver board, lens assembly. I wound up buying 2 broken Fujis with complimentary faults on eBay total cost ~ $25 also picked up extra Smart cards and a charger in the deal. I swapped the boards around and now I have two working cameras. I did check the LCD board I have left over, it's not the same as yours. Richard |
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spudnuty wrote:
I agree with the above posts. I was recently given a Fujifilm 2600 that wouldn't power up. When I took it apart it was very modular: Power board, read/write board, LCD driver board, lens assembly. I wound up buying 2 broken Fujis with complimentary faults on eBay total cost ~ $25 also picked up extra Smart cards and a charger in the deal. I swapped the boards around and now I have two working cameras. I did check the LCD board I have left over, it's not the same as yours. Richard Gee...most broken digicams on ebay go for much more than that. IMO, you got very lucky. jak |
#9
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The 2" LCD that I got out of a HP Photosmart 850 was a Sanyo unit 2CF2A0112
and the replacement came from a Konica ... No, sorry it came from Fuji FinePix 6900 Jan -- jankro (@) saunalahti (.) fi Please notice my new address! Osoitteeni on muuttunut, oikea on yllä. "JMK" jankro (@) saunalahti (.) fi wrote in message ... If you separate the backlight from the LCD, is the crack in the backlight or the front LCD part. If the backlight lights up, it's working OK. If the backlight does work, so the LCD screen is defective, especially if you can see a crack in it. Jan -- jankro (@) saunalahti (.) fi Please notice my new address! Osoitteeni on muuttunut, oikea on yllä. "daddyf" wrote in message oups.com... Cheers, Jan. You're obviously more knowledgeable than me, I'm not to the point of knowing about cold cathodes or LED. Basically the screen was coming up very bright white but you could still see the pictures if you looked hard enough or side on. When I took off the back metal plate I could see a fine crack in the screen - I'm presuming this is the backlight? Thanks! |
#10
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Hey jak,
Well these were only 2 megapixals. The first one gave an error "could not write" so figured that was the read/write board and I had a spare one of those. The other one powered up but then turned off but the lens was completely ripped off that one and it looked awful but I figured the power board was ok in that one. The first I got for $25 and the second for $1! I was patient and set a limit on my bidding. I also had the advantage of having already opened up a dead 2600 someone had given me and saw that it was made in Japan and was very modular with flex connecting the parts. Yes there was some luck involved. Richard |
#11
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Some faults are easier than others:
The typical fault for i.e. Canon E18 error is a stuck lens. All it takes is a garain of sand. I have disassembled these, cleaned and reassembled them with good results. They are fairly easy to open, jus have to mark the positions of each "tube" in relation to others, so that you can put it back together again. Jan -- jankro (@) saunalahti (.) fi Please notice my new address! Osoitteeni on muuttunut, oikea on yllä. "spudnuty" wrote in message oups.com... Hey jak, Well these were only 2 megapixals. The first one gave an error "could not write" so figured that was the read/write board and I had a spare one of those. The other one powered up but then turned off but the lens was completely ripped off that one and it looked awful but I figured the power board was ok in that one. The first I got for $25 and the second for $1! I was patient and set a limit on my bidding. I also had the advantage of having already opened up a dead 2600 someone had given me and saw that it was made in Japan and was very modular with flex connecting the parts. Yes there was some luck involved. Richard |
#12
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Cheers for looking, looks like I'm going to have to find a broken
camera. Casio want a ridiculous sum for one, it's just not an option. If I looked hard enough I could probably buy a Casio product that contained the same LCD for far less than Casio want for just the part. |
#13
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JMK wrote:
Some faults are easier than others: The typical fault for i.e. Canon E18 error is a stuck lens. All it takes is a garain of sand. I have disassembled these, cleaned and reassembled them with good results. They are fairly easy to open, jus have to mark the positions of each "tube" in relation to others, so that you can put it back together again. Jan Hey jak, Well these were only 2 megapixals. The first one gave an error "could not write" so figured that was the read/write board and I had a spare one of those. The other one powered up but then turned off but the lens was completely ripped off that one and it looked awful but I figured the power board was ok in that one. The first I got for $25 and the second for $1! I was patient and set a limit on my bidding. I also had the advantage of having already opened up a dead 2600 someone had given me and saw that it was made in Japan and was very modular with flex connecting the parts. Yes there was some luck involved. Richard I've got a 2.3 meg Nikon that I paid dearly for, used. I didn't realize it had a fault, which was as in the case above, a stuck lense. There was no foreign matter involves, just jammed gears. A simple tweak with a fingernail solved it. Since then I've priced several such, but they always go for much more than I'm willing to pay. jak |
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