Looking for a clock motor labeled "WB 140". Motor goes in an old Maytag
gas range and it obviously powers the mechanical clock. Motor is 110
volt,
60 hertz, 2.5 watt.
I've been told that this motor was discountined in 1968. I went to the
local
electric shop (that's been in business forever) and he actually had
one, but
it was a pull and it didn't work.
Thanks in advance.

"Kruse" wrote in message
oups.com...

Looking for a clock motor labeled "WB 140". Motor goes in an old Maytag
gas range and it obviously powers the mechanical clock. Motor is 110
volt,
60 hertz, 2.5 watt.
I've been told that this motor was discountined in 1968. I went to the
local
electric shop (that's been in business forever) and he actually had
one, but
it was a pull and it didn't work.
Thanks in advance.


Is the coil burned out? I rewound one for my old dryer timer and it's been
working well, could be that the grease is all gummed up, also may be
fixable.

It must be. The shaft can be turned by hand if pressure is applied. I
put a few
drops of 3-in-1 oil on the assembly as a last resort with no success.
Not to insult anybody's intelligence on this group, but it is a gear
reduction motor. The shop had several hundred that looked almost the
same, each was
just slightly different except I found one that was indentical, it just
didn't work
either. They were mostly pulls. Not sure why he kept them.
Once again, thanks in advance.

"Kruse" wrote in message
oups.com...
It must be. The shaft can be turned by hand if pressure is applied. I
put a few
drops of 3-in-1 oil on the assembly as a last resort with no success.
Not to insult anybody's intelligence on this group, but it is a gear
reduction motor. The shop had several hundred that looked almost the
same, each was
just slightly different except I found one that was indentical, it just
didn't work
either. They were mostly pulls. Not sure why he kept them.
Once again, thanks in advance.



Check it with an ohm meter...

"James Sweet" writes:

"Kruse" wrote in message
oups.com...

Looking for a clock motor labeled "WB 140". Motor goes in an old Maytag
gas range and it obviously powers the mechanical clock. Motor is 110
volt,
60 hertz, 2.5 watt.
I've been told that this motor was discountined in 1968. I went to the
local
electric shop (that's been in business forever) and he actually had
one, but
it was a pull and it didn't work.
Thanks in advance.


Is the coil burned out? I rewound one for my old dryer timer and it's been
working well, could be that the grease is all gummed up, also may be
fixable.

Most common problem is gummed up lubrication. If it's similar to those
I've seen, they can be disassembled (though it's not pretty), oiled, and
good for another 10 years.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

Kruse wrote:
Looking for a clock motor labeled "WB 140". Motor goes in an old Maytag
gas range and it obviously powers the mechanical clock.

There are places that rebuild old appliance timers. A 1997 Popular
Mechanics article at
http://popularmechanics.com/home_imp...97/print.phtml
mentions http://www.m-t-s.com/ , Professional Appliance Parts of
Lakewood, CO, Reeco Timer of Palm Bay, FL, and T & E Timer of
Madison Heights, MI. Google suggests
http://www.antiquegasstoves.com/pages/rebuild.html as another source.
How about a local place that sells used appliances? You might also try
a big appliance parts distributor, like Marcone in Overland Park. If
they don't have it they might be able to point you at a local source.

Standard disclaimers apply; I don't get money from any of the companies
mentioned.

Matt Roberds

wrote:
Kruse wrote:
Looking for a clock motor labeled "WB 140". Motor goes in an old
Maytag
gas range and it obviously powers the mechanical clock.

There are places that rebuild old appliance timers. A 1997 Popular
Mechanics article at

http://popularmechanics.com/home_imp...97/print.phtml
mentions http://www.m-t-s.com/ , Professional Appliance Parts of
Lakewood, CO, Reeco Timer of Palm Bay, FL, and T & E Timer of
Madison Heights, MI. Google suggests
http://www.antiquegasstoves.com/pages/rebuild.html as another source.
How about a local place that sells used appliances? You might also
try
a big appliance parts distributor, like Marcone in Overland Park. If
they don't have it they might be able to point you at a local source.

Standard disclaimers apply; I don't get money from any of the
companies
mentioned.

Matt Roberds

If the coil is good, the problem is gummed gears.

Try drilling - very carefully - a tiny hole in the gear case, and then
using a needle like the ones for refilling ink cartridges, insert some
3-1 oil or similar lubricant into the gear case. You may have to heat
the gear case up to 150 - 200 F to loosen up the existing dried
lubricant. In fact you might heat it up before putting the oil in to
get better circulation.

I have done this provedure about 5 or 6t times over the past 40 years
and it always works. Just be careful when drilling the hole that you
don't get into the gears, they are usually very close to the cover of
the case.

H. R.(Bob) Hofmann

wrote:


If the coil is good, the problem is gummed gears.

Try drilling - very carefully - a tiny hole in the gear case, and
then
using a needle like the ones for refilling ink cartridges, insert
some
3-1 oil or similar lubricant into the gear case. You may have to
heat
the gear case up to 150 - 200 F to loosen up the existing dried
lubricant. In fact you might heat it up before putting the oil in to
get better circulation.

I have done this provedure about 5 or 6t times over the past 40 years
and it always works. Just be careful when drilling the hole that you
don't get into the gears, they are usually very close to the cover of
the case.

H. R.(Bob) Hofmann

The coil is open. So is the one in the repair shop. I guess I'll drill
it
open and maybe see where the open is. Thanks for all your posts. I'm
not sure
where this will lead me.

"Kruse" writes:

wrote:


If the coil is good, the problem is gummed gears.

Try drilling - very carefully - a tiny hole in the gear case, and
then
using a needle like the ones for refilling ink cartridges, insert
some
3-1 oil or similar lubricant into the gear case. You may have to
heat
the gear case up to 150 - 200 F to loosen up the existing dried
lubricant. In fact you might heat it up before putting the oil in to
get better circulation.

I have done this provedure about 5 or 6t times over the past 40 years
and it always works. Just be careful when drilling the hole that you
don't get into the gears, they are usually very close to the cover of
the case.

H. R.(Bob) Hofmann

The coil is open. So is the one in the repair shop. I guess I'll drill
it
open and maybe see where the open is. Thanks for all your posts. I'm
not sure
where this will lead me.

If the coil is open, you may be able to replace just the coil or swap
gear sets with one that works.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

"Sam Goldwasser" wrote in message
...
"Kruse" writes:

wrote:


If the coil is good, the problem is gummed gears.

Try drilling - very carefully - a tiny hole in the gear case, and
then
using a needle like the ones for refilling ink cartridges, insert
some
3-1 oil or similar lubricant into the gear case. You may have to
heat
the gear case up to 150 - 200 F to loosen up the existing dried
lubricant. In fact you might heat it up before putting the oil in to
get better circulation.

I have done this provedure about 5 or 6t times over the past 40 years
and it always works. Just be careful when drilling the hole that you
don't get into the gears, they are usually very close to the cover of
the case.

H. R.(Bob) Hofmann

The coil is open. So is the one in the repair shop. I guess I'll drill
it
open and maybe see where the open is. Thanks for all your posts. I'm
not sure
where this will lead me.

If the coil is open, you may be able to replace just the coil or swap
gear sets with one that works.


When I had that problem I unwound the coil and rewound it with somewhat
heavier magnet wire. I connected it to a small 6.3v transformer, let it run
for a while to make sure it wasn't getting too warm and it's been working
fine ever since.

"Kruse" wrote in message
ups.com...

| The coil is open. So is the one in the repair shop. I guess I'll drill
| it open and maybe see where the open is.

You can rewind it if you can use a small lathe or bench drill etc. Just get
the same gauge of wire and fill the coil to the same depth. It'll be close
enough. Some local motor rewinders may be able to do this for you also.

N

Well if you want to go digital. I have a red LED clock/timer out of a
Maytag Model #MGR4410ADH gas range. My landlord replaced it when our
ignitors were acting wierd but I later found that the outlet was funky.
So I have a perfectly good digital clock. It measures 5.5" X 2" and
mounts with 4 ears on the long ends of the unit. However if you want to
stay retro well....

Richard

"Kruse" wrote in message
oups.com...

Looking for a clock motor labeled "WB 140". Motor goes in an old Maytag
gas range and it obviously powers the mechanical clock. Motor is 110
volt,
60 hertz, 2.5 watt.
I've been told that this motor was discountined in 1968. I went to the
local
electric shop (that's been in business forever) and he actually had
one, but
it was a pull and it didn't work.
Thanks in advance.

If the coil is open it is likely to be at the connection from the winding to
the outside world.
It may not need rewinding at all.
When I did one, I had to remove the reduction gears to get at the bad
connection. Before I started I used my digital camera to take a pic of the
assembly. Then it was a snap to rebuild the nest of gears without a it of
guess work.


Charlie

wrote:
Well if you want to go digital. I have a red LED clock/timer out of a
Maytag Model #MGR4410ADH gas range. My landlord replaced it when our
ignitors were acting wierd but I later found that the outlet was
funky.
So I have a perfectly good digital clock. It measures 5.5" X 2" and
mounts with 4 ears on the long ends of the unit. However if you want
to
stay retro well....

Richard

This is a Maytag range from the early 50's. You Do understand why
a digital clock probably wouldn't look quite right..... :-)
Thanks for all of your replies. I will probably get it rewound. The
shop
gave me the old one. (Just taking up clutter in his shop anyway)
So I can butcher one, er, I mean fix one while I still have another as
a
backup. Too bad nobody makes one to just bolt in however. I like to
tinker
but I need it fixed ASAP!

"Kruse" wrote
Looking for a clock motor labeled "WB 140". Motor goes in an old Maytag
gas range and it obviously powers the mechanical clock. Motor is 110
volt, 60 hertz, 2.5 watt.

For the clocks in clock radios (similar, I would expect), the standard
fix is to drill a tiny hole in the back of the gear case/can, squirt in
a few drops of very light oil, or even kerosene, shake it around a bit,
and then plug it in and turn it upside down. Leave it upside down,
trying to run, for a few days. If it starts, continue to let it run
upside down for a few days.

The problem being addressed is that the original lube gradually runs to
the bottom of the case, leaving a very thin coating on the gears, which
eventually turns gluey. The new lube tends to dissolve the "glue",
freeing the mechanism. Running it upside down eventually redistributes
whatever old grease gets thinned out by the new oil.

Bill Jeffrey

"Bill Jeffrey" wrote in message
news:TP1zd.5348$CH5.73@fed1read01...
"Kruse" wrote
Looking for a clock motor labeled "WB 140". Motor goes in an old Maytag
gas range and it obviously powers the mechanical clock. Motor is 110
volt, 60 hertz, 2.5 watt.

For the clocks in clock radios (similar, I would expect), the standard
fix is to drill a tiny hole in the back of the gear case/can, squirt in
a few drops of very light oil, or even kerosene, shake it around a bit,
and then plug it in and turn it upside down. Leave it upside down,
trying to run, for a few days. If it starts, continue to let it run
upside down for a few days.

The problem being addressed is that the original lube gradually runs to
the bottom of the case, leaving a very thin coating on the gears, which
eventually turns gluey. The new lube tends to dissolve the "glue",
freeing the mechanism. Running it upside down eventually redistributes
whatever old grease gets thinned out by the new oil.



That certainly will work in some cases, though here he determined the coil
to be open circuit, no amount of kerosene will fix that.