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WB 140 clock motor needed
Looking for a clock motor labeled "WB 140". Motor goes in an old Maytag gas range and it obviously powers the mechanical clock. Motor is 110 volt, 60 hertz, 2.5 watt. I've been told that this motor was discountined in 1968. I went to the local electric shop (that's been in business forever) and he actually had one, but it was a pull and it didn't work. Thanks in advance. |
"Kruse" wrote in message oups.com... Looking for a clock motor labeled "WB 140". Motor goes in an old Maytag gas range and it obviously powers the mechanical clock. Motor is 110 volt, 60 hertz, 2.5 watt. I've been told that this motor was discountined in 1968. I went to the local electric shop (that's been in business forever) and he actually had one, but it was a pull and it didn't work. Thanks in advance. Is the coil burned out? I rewound one for my old dryer timer and it's been working well, could be that the grease is all gummed up, also may be fixable. |
It must be. The shaft can be turned by hand if pressure is applied. I
put a few drops of 3-in-1 oil on the assembly as a last resort with no success. Not to insult anybody's intelligence on this group, but it is a gear reduction motor. The shop had several hundred that looked almost the same, each was just slightly different except I found one that was indentical, it just didn't work either. They were mostly pulls. Not sure why he kept them. Once again, thanks in advance. |
"Kruse" wrote in message oups.com... It must be. The shaft can be turned by hand if pressure is applied. I put a few drops of 3-in-1 oil on the assembly as a last resort with no success. Not to insult anybody's intelligence on this group, but it is a gear reduction motor. The shop had several hundred that looked almost the same, each was just slightly different except I found one that was indentical, it just didn't work either. They were mostly pulls. Not sure why he kept them. Once again, thanks in advance. Check it with an ohm meter... |
"James Sweet" writes:
"Kruse" wrote in message oups.com... Looking for a clock motor labeled "WB 140". Motor goes in an old Maytag gas range and it obviously powers the mechanical clock. Motor is 110 volt, 60 hertz, 2.5 watt. I've been told that this motor was discountined in 1968. I went to the local electric shop (that's been in business forever) and he actually had one, but it was a pull and it didn't work. Thanks in advance. Is the coil burned out? I rewound one for my old dryer timer and it's been working well, could be that the grease is all gummed up, also may be fixable. Most common problem is gummed up lubrication. If it's similar to those I've seen, they can be disassembled (though it's not pretty), oiled, and good for another 10 years. --- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/ Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/ +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm | Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive traffic on Repairfaq.org. Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs. |
Kruse wrote:
Looking for a clock motor labeled "WB 140". Motor goes in an old Maytag gas range and it obviously powers the mechanical clock. There are places that rebuild old appliance timers. A 1997 Popular Mechanics article at http://popularmechanics.com/home_imp...97/print.phtml mentions http://www.m-t-s.com/ , Professional Appliance Parts of Lakewood, CO, Reeco Timer of Palm Bay, FL, and T & E Timer of Madison Heights, MI. Google suggests http://www.antiquegasstoves.com/pages/rebuild.html as another source. How about a local place that sells used appliances? You might also try a big appliance parts distributor, like Marcone in Overland Park. If they don't have it they might be able to point you at a local source. Standard disclaimers apply; I don't get money from any of the companies mentioned. Matt Roberds |
wrote: Kruse wrote: Looking for a clock motor labeled "WB 140". Motor goes in an old Maytag gas range and it obviously powers the mechanical clock. There are places that rebuild old appliance timers. A 1997 Popular Mechanics article at http://popularmechanics.com/home_imp...97/print.phtml mentions http://www.m-t-s.com/ , Professional Appliance Parts of Lakewood, CO, Reeco Timer of Palm Bay, FL, and T & E Timer of Madison Heights, MI. Google suggests http://www.antiquegasstoves.com/pages/rebuild.html as another source. How about a local place that sells used appliances? You might also try a big appliance parts distributor, like Marcone in Overland Park. If they don't have it they might be able to point you at a local source. Standard disclaimers apply; I don't get money from any of the companies mentioned. Matt Roberds If the coil is good, the problem is gummed gears. Try drilling - very carefully - a tiny hole in the gear case, and then using a needle like the ones for refilling ink cartridges, insert some 3-1 oil or similar lubricant into the gear case. You may have to heat the gear case up to 150 - 200 F to loosen up the existing dried lubricant. In fact you might heat it up before putting the oil in to get better circulation. I have done this provedure about 5 or 6t times over the past 40 years and it always works. Just be careful when drilling the hole that you don't get into the gears, they are usually very close to the cover of the case. H. R.(Bob) Hofmann |
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"Sam Goldwasser" wrote in message ... "Kruse" writes: wrote: If the coil is good, the problem is gummed gears. Try drilling - very carefully - a tiny hole in the gear case, and then using a needle like the ones for refilling ink cartridges, insert some 3-1 oil or similar lubricant into the gear case. You may have to heat the gear case up to 150 - 200 F to loosen up the existing dried lubricant. In fact you might heat it up before putting the oil in to get better circulation. I have done this provedure about 5 or 6t times over the past 40 years and it always works. Just be careful when drilling the hole that you don't get into the gears, they are usually very close to the cover of the case. H. R.(Bob) Hofmann The coil is open. So is the one in the repair shop. I guess I'll drill it open and maybe see where the open is. Thanks for all your posts. I'm not sure where this will lead me. If the coil is open, you may be able to replace just the coil or swap gear sets with one that works. When I had that problem I unwound the coil and rewound it with somewhat heavier magnet wire. I connected it to a small 6.3v transformer, let it run for a while to make sure it wasn't getting too warm and it's been working fine ever since. |
"Kruse" wrote in message ups.com... | The coil is open. So is the one in the repair shop. I guess I'll drill | it open and maybe see where the open is. You can rewind it if you can use a small lathe or bench drill etc. Just get the same gauge of wire and fill the coil to the same depth. It'll be close enough. Some local motor rewinders may be able to do this for you also. N |
Well if you want to go digital. I have a red LED clock/timer out of a
Maytag Model #MGR4410ADH gas range. My landlord replaced it when our ignitors were acting wierd but I later found that the outlet was funky. So I have a perfectly good digital clock. It measures 5.5" X 2" and mounts with 4 ears on the long ends of the unit. However if you want to stay retro well.... Richard |
"Kruse" wrote in message oups.com... Looking for a clock motor labeled "WB 140". Motor goes in an old Maytag gas range and it obviously powers the mechanical clock. Motor is 110 volt, 60 hertz, 2.5 watt. I've been told that this motor was discountined in 1968. I went to the local electric shop (that's been in business forever) and he actually had one, but it was a pull and it didn't work. Thanks in advance. If the coil is open it is likely to be at the connection from the winding to the outside world. It may not need rewinding at all. When I did one, I had to remove the reduction gears to get at the bad connection. Before I started I used my digital camera to take a pic of the assembly. Then it was a snap to rebuild the nest of gears without a it of guess work. Charlie |
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"Kruse" wrote
Looking for a clock motor labeled "WB 140". Motor goes in an old Maytag gas range and it obviously powers the mechanical clock. Motor is 110 volt, 60 hertz, 2.5 watt. For the clocks in clock radios (similar, I would expect), the standard fix is to drill a tiny hole in the back of the gear case/can, squirt in a few drops of very light oil, or even kerosene, shake it around a bit, and then plug it in and turn it upside down. Leave it upside down, trying to run, for a few days. If it starts, continue to let it run upside down for a few days. The problem being addressed is that the original lube gradually runs to the bottom of the case, leaving a very thin coating on the gears, which eventually turns gluey. The new lube tends to dissolve the "glue", freeing the mechanism. Running it upside down eventually redistributes whatever old grease gets thinned out by the new oil. Bill Jeffrey |
"Bill Jeffrey" wrote in message news:TP1zd.5348$CH5.73@fed1read01... "Kruse" wrote Looking for a clock motor labeled "WB 140". Motor goes in an old Maytag gas range and it obviously powers the mechanical clock. Motor is 110 volt, 60 hertz, 2.5 watt. For the clocks in clock radios (similar, I would expect), the standard fix is to drill a tiny hole in the back of the gear case/can, squirt in a few drops of very light oil, or even kerosene, shake it around a bit, and then plug it in and turn it upside down. Leave it upside down, trying to run, for a few days. If it starts, continue to let it run upside down for a few days. The problem being addressed is that the original lube gradually runs to the bottom of the case, leaving a very thin coating on the gears, which eventually turns gluey. The new lube tends to dissolve the "glue", freeing the mechanism. Running it upside down eventually redistributes whatever old grease gets thinned out by the new oil. That certainly will work in some cases, though here he determined the coil to be open circuit, no amount of kerosene will fix that. |
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