27" RCA stereo TV model:F27665YX1,chassis:CTC203AX,year:Jan
2000,serial # 003313575,Sams 4776.Free CTC203 Sams E-Fact at:

SAMS 4733 RCA CTC203 & SAMS 4737 Sanyo DS25520

http://www.samswebsite.com/photofact...SAMPLE_420.PDF

No power when power button is pressed but after repeated presses of
power button (about 3 or 4) then relay clicks and the SMPS has a high
pitch/high freq noise then the tv shuts down again and the relay
clicks on it's on 3 more times (a total of 4 clicks for every time I
press the power button) then stops. I don't have a chip checker.
The B+ is 140v at the flyback and HOT and the base signal on the HOT
is clean, I did not measure the ac waveform at the collector of the
HOT as I am afraid I might destroy my TEK465 oscilloscope. The flyback
does not seem to be running during the on cycles of the relay,I rang
the flyback and SMPS with the calibration output of my TEK465 and two
0.1Uf poly caps:

http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/flypoor.html
http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/Dec02/Dec021.html
http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/Dec02/Dec023.html

and both x-fmrs rang good. This TV was recently was brought to me by
the customer who had it at another shop because they wanted too much
to fix it and I noticed that they had resoldered T14101=SMPS x-fmrs
and they had Q14401=2SD2578=244229=NTE2353 removed then re-installed
(soldered in again).
I removed & resoldered L14401=hrz base coil and T14301=hrz driver
x-fmr even though the soldering looked good, I did scrape the leads. I
also checked the following common failure parts:

RCA SMPS Kit # 139706:

Q14101=P9NB50=244223
Q14102=MPS8599=147665=NTE159
Q14103=NTE287=232218
CR14109=243626
R14103=1 M ohm,1/2 w
R14107=47 ohm,1/4 w
U14102=231525
U14101=223653
F14201= 5 amp fuse

The only odd thing is when I removed the HOT=2SD2578 the base-emitter
measured only 70 ohms so I tried a brand new NTE2353 and the tv had
the same problem so I decided to remove the NTE2353 and I measured
it's base-emitter and discovered it was 44 ohms. I should of measured
it before soldering it in the tv and powering it up. According to NTE
this equivalent does not have a base-emitter resistor,is this a normal
value for these two HOTS?.
I have checked as many repair tips sites as possible and the only
conclusion I have is that maybe the flyback
T14401=1536119A=244229=HR8675 is defective as about 60% of this
chassis have it even though it rings good. I hate this chassis it is
worse the the CTC169 and TX81/82/825/826/808/809 and yes I measured
most components with my Fluke DMM series II model 29 in ohms range and
measured the DC voltages out of the SMPS like 12v,33v and 5v.
Thanks in advance for replies.

Sidney

Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/May02/May18.html
http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/SonyAudMod.html
http://www.newark.com/product-detail...ge/32-9495.jpg
http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/Oct02/Oct028.html
http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/Oct02/Oct029.html
http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/Oct04/Oct041.html

http://techsite.info/forum/

Your horiz output is normal checking the way it does. My guess would be the
flyback. I don't how how good your Fluke meter is, but on mine I can set it for
AC volts and read off the collector of the horiz output. Should be aprox 300v
rms. If this voltage is there when the set is turned on, but no or low high
voltage, the flyback is most likely bad. Also try unplugging the CRT board and
the yoke, and see if HV returns. A shorted yoke or a CRT with no vacuum can
cause this problem also.

Also address the L14401 problem on the chassis before returning it for use.
"RonKZ650" wrote in message
...
Your horiz output is normal checking the way it does. My guess would be
the
flyback. I don't how how good your Fluke meter is, but on mine I can set
it for
AC volts and read off the collector of the horiz output. Should be aprox
300v
rms. If this voltage is there when the set is turned on, but no or low
high
voltage, the flyback is most likely bad. Also try unplugging the CRT board
and
the yoke, and see if HV returns. A shorted yoke or a CRT with no vacuum
can
cause this problem also.

On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 18:02:11 -0400, "Art"
wrote:

Also address the L14401 problem on the chassis before returning it for use.
"RonKZ650" wrote in message

...

Sidney already addressed the L14401.

Use 242224 for HOT (Q14401) this is used on both 25" and 27" model of
203 chassis. No subs please.

Does your chassis have PIP module? Pull it out and look really close
at two SMD resistors for trimming adjustable regulator LM417 voltage
output it is on steel heatsink to source 3.3V power for PIP IC. One
of two SMD resistors has cracked solder joint. I caught 3 cases of
those and they behaved exactly like you described. 3 strikes and out
because the PIP IC and it's voltage conversion transistor on that I2C
bus is "dead" and jamming the I2C bus.

Flyback failures is extremely rare on 25 and 27. But can happen,
check PIP module as I suggested.

Cheers,

Wizard

We found CR14704 Scan Supply Diode Shorted where the relay clicks 3 times
as you described. After replacing it the set was fine. -Mike

Hi Again, We had another CTC203AX with a Bad Pip board that caused it too:
(F2PIP board) Try pulling the pip board out and turn the set on. It if
comes on the pip board is defective. -Mike

On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 01:15:45 -0400, "techdrive"
wrote:

Hi Again, We had another CTC203AX with a Bad Pip board that caused it too:
(F2PIP board) Try pulling the pip board out and turn the set on. It if
comes on the pip board is defective. -Mike

Mike, Same kind of several possible causes. Rather than just comdemn
it as defective, look at your F2PIP board, The LM317 regulator, on
solder side, there is two SMD resistors that trims the LM317
regulator's voltage output. One of two resistors has cracked solder.
Resolder that, and you should be good to go.

Done three of those.

Cheers,

Wizard

On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 01:15:45 -0400, "techdrive"
wrote:

Hi Again, We had another CTC203AX with a Bad Pip board that caused it too:
(F2PIP board) Try pulling the pip board out and turn the set on. It if
comes on the pip board is defective. -Mike

Doesn't the 203 fail to turn on (except to the Service Menu) is any
I2C device is defective or missing? Is there anything on the PIP board
that is in the communications loop? It's been awhile here, folks.

I know I worked on one that the tuner was bad. I removed the tuner, it
refused to come on. I consulted the manual, and determined that it
would turn on to the Service Menu if a communication-required device
was disabled or missing.

Tom

On Sat, 23 Oct 2004 16:42:33 GMT, Tom MacIntyre
wrote:

On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 01:15:45 -0400, "techdrive"
wrote:

Hi Again, We had another CTC203AX with a Bad Pip board that caused it too:
(F2PIP board) Try pulling the pip board out and turn the set on. It if
comes on the pip board is defective. -Mike

Doesn't the 203 fail to turn on (except to the Service Menu) is any
I2C device is defective or missing? Is there anything on the PIP board
that is in the communications loop? It's been awhile here, folks.

I know I worked on one that the tuner was bad. I removed the tuner, it
refused to come on. I consulted the manual, and determined that it
would turn on to the Service Menu if a communication-required device
was disabled or missing.

Tom

Tom, 203 won't power up at all if vital items: jungle, micro, tuner or
any jammed or bad joints in I2C bus will cause 3 strikes and out,
click click click. I clearly recall forced power method doesn't exist
for 203. I think was for older 17x chassis.

The F2PIP module will jam the I2C bus if F2PIP module's 3.3V source is
lost. This 3.3V powers PIP IC (big one), and bunch of smd transistors
to convert 5V I2C to 3.3V I2C bus or vice vesa for the PIP IC. I2C
communication is needed to control PIP and set up values, switch
inputs, so many things basically nothing in 203 is analog to adjust,
it's all digital.

Reason 3.3V went away on F2PIP module was the one of two SMD resistors
developed a solder crack for the LM317 trimming voltage. Crack that
and 3.3V is lost. Bingo jammed I2C bus. To confirm, remove F2PIP
module and turn it on, it should come up but no picture but deflection
circuits are whirring away normally and hear the degaussing relay
click once like a normal power up process.

Fix was resolder that tiny two SMD resistors for LM317, 3.3V is back
and set is functional once again. Easy job really.

Cheers,

Wizard

On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 02:33:20 GMT, (Jason D.) wrote:

On Sat, 23 Oct 2004 16:42:33 GMT, Tom MacIntyre
wrote:

On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 01:15:45 -0400, "techdrive"
wrote:

Hi Again, We had another CTC203AX with a Bad Pip board that caused it too:
(F2PIP board) Try pulling the pip board out and turn the set on. It if
comes on the pip board is defective. -Mike

Doesn't the 203 fail to turn on (except to the Service Menu) is any
I2C device is defective or missing? Is there anything on the PIP board
that is in the communications loop? It's been awhile here, folks.

I know I worked on one that the tuner was bad. I removed the tuner, it
refused to come on. I consulted the manual, and determined that it
would turn on to the Service Menu if a communication-required device
was disabled or missing.

Tom

Tom, 203 won't power up at all if vital items: jungle, micro, tuner or
any jammed or bad joints in I2C bus will cause 3 strikes and out,
click click click. I clearly recall forced power method doesn't exist
for 203. I think was for older 17x chassis.

Like I said, it's been awhile. I do know that for some reasonably
recent CTC chassis', if the I2C has anything missing or not working,
the only way you can power it up is into the Service Menu.

Tom


The F2PIP module will jam the I2C bus if F2PIP module's 3.3V source is
lost. This 3.3V powers PIP IC (big one), and bunch of smd transistors
to convert 5V I2C to 3.3V I2C bus or vice vesa for the PIP IC. I2C
communication is needed to control PIP and set up values, switch
inputs, so many things basically nothing in 203 is analog to adjust,
it's all digital.

Reason 3.3V went away on F2PIP module was the one of two SMD resistors
developed a solder crack for the LM317 trimming voltage. Crack that
and 3.3V is lost. Bingo jammed I2C bus. To confirm, remove F2PIP
module and turn it on, it should come up but no picture but deflection
circuits are whirring away normally and hear the degaussing relay
click once like a normal power up process.

Fix was resolder that tiny two SMD resistors for LM317, 3.3V is back
and set is functional once again. Easy job really.

Cheers,

Wizard