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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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Hi all,
I have a quick question I was wondering if someone might be able to answer. What is the standard light bulb number for the 5V lamps in a Heathkit GC-1195/1197 clock. They are 5V miniature wedge type light bulbs that are used for the display segments. I guess this could be a proprietary Heathkit part, but I was hoping maybe someone had changed these and maybe knew if there was a standard bulb equivalent (the Heathkit part number is 412-621. Thanks and I do appreciate any help. Ralph Farr |
#2
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What you should do is see if you can get a Newark or equivalent catalogue
and carefully go through it. There are hundreds of different types of these small lamps. I am sure that your lamps are of some standard. I doubt very much that Heath had their own made, especially in the time that they were around. If there are any electronic suppliers in your area, which you can check to verify in your yellow pages, pay them a visit with a sample of a lamp. You can try Radio Shack, or a TV service place, but these would be very limited. If you know the voltage and current rating of the lamp, you can probably substitute it and also install new sockets to match. This is too much of a hassle for something that is standard. -- Greetings, Jerry Greenberg GLG Technologies GLG ========================================= WebPage http://www.zoom-one.com Electronics http://www.zoom-one.com/electron.htm ========================================= "Ralph Farr" wrote in message ... Hi all, I have a quick question I was wondering if someone might be able to answer. What is the standard light bulb number for the 5V lamps in a Heathkit GC-1195/1197 clock. They are 5V miniature wedge type light bulbs that are used for the display segments. I guess this could be a proprietary Heathkit part, but I was hoping maybe someone had changed these and maybe knew if there was a standard bulb equivalent (the Heathkit part number is 412-621. Thanks and I do appreciate any help. Ralph Farr |
#3
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They sound like a standard wedge base 5v lamp. Can you scan or photo this,
and I will match. Kim "Ralph Farr" wrote in message ... Hi all, I have a quick question I was wondering if someone might be able to answer. What is the standard light bulb number for the 5V lamps in a Heathkit GC-1195/1197 clock. They are 5V miniature wedge type light bulbs that are used for the display segments. I guess this could be a proprietary Heathkit part, but I was hoping maybe someone had changed these and maybe knew if there was a standard bulb equivalent (the Heathkit part number is 412-621. Thanks and I do appreciate any help. Ralph Farr |
#4
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Ralph Farr wrote in message ...
Hi all, I have a quick question I was wondering if someone might be able to answer. What is the standard light bulb number for the 5V lamps in a Heathkit GC-1195/1197 clock. They are 5V miniature wedge type light bulbs that are used for the display segments. I guess this could be a proprietary Heathkit part, but I was hoping maybe someone had changed these and maybe knew if there was a standard bulb equivalent (the Heathkit part number is 412-621. Thanks and I do appreciate any help. Ralph Farr Hi Ralf, I built one of those clocks a long time ago and it is currently lounging on my "to play with" pile. It was a great conversation piece, and always drew comments. Those little bulbs are problematic. I've had the clock for years and they get loose in the socket, or burn out at different times. I'm planning on replacing them with high brightness L.E.D.'s. You could measure the lamp voltage with the photocell light (I think I remember the intensity increasing with room light) and calculate an appropriate value of series resistance for the LED. Glue it into the segment, wire it to the board with soldered connections and you are done for probably a few decades. I did illuminate a segment red, and it looked great (keep the LED at the back of the bulb hole so the segment can spread the light). I'd love to see it in blue, but then you get pretty expensive. Illuminate a segment for yourself with a LED before you commit to hacking it up. If you use multiple LEDs per segment, I'm sure you can make the thing overly bright. As I said, it is waiting for me to try and I have no final report. For me, if it doesn't work out, I'll trash the clock anyway. I'm done playing bulb-boy. That clock used to throw off some warmth from the linear regulator. This should save some power as well. Now, if you could only add the "atomic clock" circuit so the thing sets its own time on power outage... Good Luck, Jim |
#6
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![]() Thanks for your reply Jim - I had never thought about using LED's but that is something I would definitely consider now. Ralph Seems it would kinda lose some of it's vintage charm if you did that, incandescent segments are something you don't see much these days. |
#7
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Yeah, and the reason you don't SEE many of them any more is that they keep
burning out! Perhaps the way to keep the vintage stuff original would be to put a small value resistor in series with the bulbs so they last longer. They'd be dimmer, but put it on a shelf near the ceiling where it's darker anyway and maybe no one will notice. Bob M. ====== "James Sweet" wrote in message news:[email protected]_s03... Thanks for your reply Jim - I had never thought about using LED's but that is something I would definitely consider now. Ralph Seems it would kinda lose some of it's vintage charm if you did that, incandescent segments are something you don't see much these days. |
#8
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![]() "Bob M." wrote in message ... Yeah, and the reason you don't SEE many of them any more is that they keep burning out! Perhaps the way to keep the vintage stuff original would be to put a small value resistor in series with the bulbs so they last longer. They'd be dimmer, but put it on a shelf near the ceiling where it's darker anyway and maybe no one will notice. Bob M. Well yeah, I didn't say incandecent was very practical, but it's cool none the less. Someone else mentioned this unit has a photocell to dim it when the room is dark, one could probably just put a variable resistor across or in series with this to adjust the max brightness, dimming it 20% would extend lamp life considerably, but then if you get a large quantity of replacement lamps it'd be pretty easy to just replace them when they burn out, or group relamp the segments that see the most use. |
#9
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Hi
You can go a long way to drive the life of the bulb up with two resistors. Put one resistor in series with the bulb to knock down the applied voltage. The other resistor is put in parallel across the switch to put just a little current through the filament when it is supposed to be off. It should just glow faint red. By doing this, the inrush current is reduced since the filament is already hot. Inrush current is what kills the bulbs. Regards "James Sweet" wrote in news:[email protected]_s03: "Bob M." wrote in message ... Yeah, and the reason you don't SEE many of them any more is that they keep burning out! Perhaps the way to keep the vintage stuff original would be to put a small value resistor in series with the bulbs so they last longer. They'd be dimmer, but put it on a shelf near the ceiling where it's darker anyway and maybe no one will notice. Bob M. Well yeah, I didn't say incandecent was very practical, but it's cool none the less. Someone else mentioned this unit has a photocell to dim it when the room is dark, one could probably just put a variable resistor across or in series with this to adjust the max brightness, dimming it 20% would extend lamp life considerably, but then if you get a large quantity of replacement lamps it'd be pretty easy to just replace them when they burn out, or group relamp the segments that see the most use. |
#10
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Ralph Farr wrote in message
Thanks for your reply Jim - I had never thought about using LED's but that is something I would definitely consider now. Ralph Sorry on the mis-type of your name. The control chip is, apparently, National MM5387AA/N Can't vouch for the source, but here you go: http://www.chipdocs.com/pndecoder/da...MM5387AAN.html Jim |
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