I'd like to purchase some CFLs that have light output and color
temperature very similar to a standard 100 Watt incandescent bulb.
Also, it would be best if it fits within the size envelope of a standard
100 Watt incandescent bulb, so that it will fit in some enclosed
fixtures.

Anyone have a specific CFL that fills the bill?

Thanks.

--- Joe

On 12/12/2013 06:49, Joe wrote:
I'd like to purchase some CFLs that have light output and color
temperature very similar to a standard 100 Watt incandescent bulb.
Also, it would be best if it fits within the size envelope of a standard
100 Watt incandescent bulb, so that it will fit in some enclosed
fixtures.

Anyone have a specific CFL that fills the bill?

Thanks.

--- Joe


Any old CFL that fits the space, go up a notch in power and buy some
permanent felt tip pens and get colouring.

"Joe"

I'd like to purchase some CFLs that have light output and color
temperature very similar to a standard 100 Watt incandescent bulb.

** They exist.

Look for 32 watt spirals in warm white.


Also, it would be best if it fits within the size envelope of a standard
100 Watt incandescent bulb, so that it will fit in some enclosed
fixtures.


** They do not exist.

High powered CFLs ( 22 watt rated or more) need good ventilation or they
fail rather quickly from over heating.




..... Phil

On 12/11/2013 10:49 PM, Joe wrote:
I'd like to purchase some CFLs that have light output and color
temperature very similar to a standard 100 Watt incandescent bulb.
Also, it would be best if it fits within the size envelope of a standard
100 Watt incandescent bulb, so that it will fit in some enclosed
fixtures.

Anyone have a specific CFL that fills the bill?

Thanks.

--- Joe

25 Watt warm white. I get mine at Home Depot (4 pack). Not Philips nor
GE brand.

On 12/11/2013 10:49 PM, Joe wrote:

I'd like to purchase some CFLs that have light output and color
temperature very similar to a standard 100 Watt incandescent bulb.
Also, it would be best if it fits within the size envelope of a standard
100 watt incandescent bulb, so that it will fit in some enclosed
fixtures.

I use the Home Despot-brand lamps. They're a little larger than a standard
bulb, though. But they're cheap and have a reasonable life span.

On 12/12/2013 12:49 AM, Joe wrote:
I'd like to purchase some CFLs that have light output and color
temperature very similar to a standard 100 Watt incandescent bulb.
Also, it would be best if it fits within the size envelope of a standard
100 Watt incandescent bulb, so that it will fit in some enclosed
fixtures.

Anyone have a specific CFL that fills the bill?

Thanks.

--- Joe


Just remeber, as I understand it, most CFL's are not made to be run
upside down.
I bought a Cree LED bulb 2700K color temp very similar to an
incandescent. 800 lumens, probably lower than a 100 watt incandescent.
Bought at Home Depot.
Mikek

"amdx" wrote in message ...

On 12/12/2013 12:49 AM, Joe wrote:
I'd like to purchase some CFLs that have light output and color
temperature very similar to a standard 100 Watt incandescent bulb.
Also, it would be best if it fits within the size envelope of a standard
100 Watt incandescent bulb, so that it will fit in some enclosed
fixtures.

Anyone have a specific CFL that fills the bill?

Thanks.

--- Joe


Just remeber, as I understand it, most CFL's are not made to be run
upside down.

BULL****! Most light bulbs are installed upside down, maybe you need a good
whack upside the head!!

Shaun



I bought a Cree LED bulb 2700K color temp very similar to an
incandescent. 800 lumens, probably lower than a 100 watt incandescent.
Bought at Home Depot.
Mikek

"Shaun"
"amdx"

Just remeber, as I understand it, most CFL's are not made to be run
upside down.

BULL****! Most light bulbs are installed upside down, maybe you need a
good whack upside the head!!


** Some CFLs are alleged to have a shorter life if run bulb upwards.

So bulb down is the norm.



..... Phil

In article ,
"Phil Allison" wrote:

"Shaun"
"amdx"

Just remeber, as I understand it, most CFL's are not made to be run
upside down.

BULL****! Most light bulbs are installed upside down, maybe you need a
good whack upside the head!!


** Some CFLs are alleged to have a shorter life if run bulb upwards.

So bulb down is the norm.



.... Phil

I thought it was just the opposite - and I surmised that the reason was
that the bulb was the heat source, and putting it ABOVE the base allowed
most of that heat to dissipate via convection.

--- Joe

"Joe" wrote in message
.. .

I thought it was just the opposite -- and I surmised that the reason was
that the bulb was the [principal] heat source, and putting it ABOVE the
base allowed most of that heat to dissipate via convection.

Agreed.

On 12/13/2013 06:16 AM, William Sommerwerck wrote:
"Joe" wrote in message
.. .

I thought it was just the opposite -- and I surmised that the reason was
that the bulb was the [principal] heat source, and putting it ABOVE the
base allowed most of that heat to dissipate via convection.

Agreed.

Why would the tube heat up if it just holds fluorescing gas? The heat is
mostly in the case I betcha.

"dave" wrote in message
m...
On 12/13/2013 06:16 AM, William Sommerwerck wrote:
"Joe" wrote in message
.. .

I thought it was just the opposite -- and I surmised that the reason was
that the bulb was the [principal] heat source, and putting it ABOVE the
base allowed most of that heat to dissipate via convection.

Agreed.


Why would the tube heat up if it just holds fluorescing gas?

Nothing is 100% efficient.


The heat is mostly in the case, I betcha.

I use a 5000K 100W-equivalent CFL in my bedroom, mounted upright. The bulb is
warm (though not remotely approaching "hot"). The base is cool, seemingly at
room temp.

On 12/12/2013 10:05 PM, Joe wrote:
In article ,
"Phil Allison" wrote:

"Shaun"
"amdx"

Just remeber, as I understand it, most CFL's are not made to be run
upside down.

BULL****! Most light bulbs are installed upside down, maybe you need a
good whack upside the head!!


** Some CFLs are alleged to have a shorter life if run bulb upwards.

So bulb down is the norm.



.... Phil

I thought it was just the opposite -

That's what I thought also.

and I surmised that the reason was
that the bulb was the heat source, and putting it ABOVE the base allowed
most of that heat to dissipate via convection.

The CFL's are supposed to be long life, but those I use in my ceiling
fixtures with the base up, in a glass globe open on the down end seem
to fail sooner than expected. I think the heat collects in the globes
shortening the life.
Mikek

Mikek

On 12/12/2013 9:21 PM, Shaun wrote:


"amdx" wrote in message ...

On 12/12/2013 12:49 AM, Joe wrote:
I'd like to purchase some CFLs that have light output and color
temperature very similar to a standard 100 Watt incandescent bulb.
Also, it would be best if it fits within the size envelope of a standard
100 Watt incandescent bulb, so that it will fit in some enclosed
fixtures.

Anyone have a specific CFL that fills the bill?

Thanks.

--- Joe


Just remeber, as I understand it, most CFL's are not made to be run
upside down.

BULL****! Most light bulbs are installed upside down, maybe you need a
good whack upside the head!!

Shaun

Having some problems with civility there Shaun?
Or do you think you can convince people you are right,
by being aggressive in you response?
btw, you didn't convince me.
Mikek

In article , amdx wrote:

The CFL's are supposed to be long life, but those I use in my ceiling
fixtures with the base up, in a glass globe open on the down end seem
to fail sooner than expected. I think the heat collects in the globes
shortening the life.

Whether CFLs have any particular issues being used base-up or
base-down seems to depend on the specific manufacturer.

According to one U.S. Government document I read yesterday, CFLs which
have the Energy Star labeling are required to work equally well in any
orientation, *unless* the manufacturer specifically labels them
otherwise.

Wouldn't surprise me if this isn't very well enforced, though. I've
had some fairly poor-lifetime results from some of the cheapie CFLs,
no matter what orientation we use them in. And, it's quite
disconcerting when their failure mode involves a hot base and
nasty-smelling smoke. :-(

Has anybody come across a good source for good LED-based ceiling
fixtures? Seems to me that the real "win" for LED lighting isn't in
"screw-in" replacement for existing incandescent bulbs (heat build-up,
less-than-wonderful light dispersion) but for ceiling-mountable
fixtures with a broader array of LEDs and a diffuser. This would
spread out the heat of the LEDs into a much larger
radiating/convection area and reduce the "bright points of light"
effect.

If I could find a nice-looking panel 18"-24" square, which could
radiate the equivalent of 5000+ lumens of warm-white (e.g. three
100-watt incandescent bulbs or more) I'd replace the old three-bulb
ceiling fixture in our family room like a shot. We've got CFLs in it,
but they're so bulky I had to remove the diffuser... doesn't look
wonderful.

dave wrote:

On 12/13/2013 06:16 AM, William Sommerwerck wrote:
"Joe" wrote in message
.. .

I thought it was just the opposite -- and I surmised that the reason was
that the bulb was the [principal] heat source, and putting it ABOVE the
base allowed most of that heat to dissipate via convection.

Agreed.

Why would the tube heat up if it just holds fluorescing gas? The heat is
mostly in the case I betcha.
Run a 26 W CFL in open air for 20 minutes and then grab the lamp.
The electronic ballast certainly DOES heat up, but the bulb itself
also gets quite warm. Some of them you can handle immediately, but
some get so hot you have to let them cool for a minute or two before
you can touch the glass. Even the 48" fluorescent tubes got warm, but
they had a lot of surface area.

Jon

David Platt wrote:


If I could find a nice-looking panel 18"-24" square, which could
radiate the equivalent of 5000+ lumens of warm-white (e.g. three
100-watt incandescent bulbs or more) I'd replace the old three-bulb
ceiling fixture in our family room like a shot. We've got CFLs in it,
but they're so bulky I had to remove the diffuser... doesn't look
wonderful.
Yes, this is why I made my own fixture. I just didn't see anything
that was suitable at a decent price. It was still pretty expensive
to buy 10 Cree LEDs and put together a constant current power supply.

To make a standard fluorescent replacement, I'd use 20 of these 1 W
LEDs, I think that is 4000 lumens, and use an off the shelf LED
power supply. That would run almost $60 total parts, but should run
a long time without maintenance. (I hope!) It should replace
two 48" tubes. I have the parts, just haven't getten around to
building it.

Jon

On 12/12/2013 8:35 AM, William Sommerwerck wrote:
On 12/11/2013 10:49 PM, Joe wrote:

I'd like to purchase some CFLs that have light output and color
temperature very similar to a standard 100 Watt incandescent bulb.
Also, it would be best if it fits within the size envelope of a standard
100 watt incandescent bulb, so that it will fit in some enclosed
fixtures.

I use the Home Despot-brand lamps. They're a little larger than a
standard bulb, though. But they're cheap and have a reasonable life span.


TCP is the company that manufactures CFls for American shops including
home Depot Walmart etc. There shold be no difference in private label
amongst the bigger shops as they are made in the same plant.

I'm not American so I could care less, but it looks like some of you are
so I will say this. Nobody makes CFL bulbs in America so don't look for
American made CFL, because they do no exist.

"Hench" wrote in message ...
On 12/12/2013 8:35 AM, William Sommerwerck wrote:
On 12/11/2013 10:49 PM, Joe wrote:

I use the Home Despot-brand lamps. They're a little larger than
a standard bulb, though. But they're cheap and have a reasonable
life span.

TCP is the company that manufactures CFls for American shops
including Home Depot, Walmart etc. There shold be no difference
in private label amongst the bigger shops as they are made in the
same plant.

I'd been using them about two years before Consumer Reports rated them among
the best CFLs. I don't see how you could go wrong with them.

On 12/14/2013 03:25 AM, Hench wrote:
On 12/12/2013 8:35 AM, William Sommerwerck wrote:
On 12/11/2013 10:49 PM, Joe wrote:

I'd like to purchase some CFLs that have light output and color
temperature very similar to a standard 100 Watt incandescent bulb.
Also, it would be best if it fits within the size envelope of a standard
100 watt incandescent bulb, so that it will fit in some enclosed
fixtures.

I use the Home Despot-brand lamps. They're a little larger than a
standard bulb, though. But they're cheap and have a reasonable life span.


TCP is the company that manufactures CFls for American shops including
home Depot Walmart etc. There shold be no difference in private label
amongst the bigger shops as they are made in the same plant.

I'm not American so I could care less, but it looks like some of you are
so I will say this. Nobody makes CFL bulbs in America so don't look for
American made CFL, because they do no exist.

And if they did they would probably suck.

"Joe"
"Phil Allison"
"Shaun"
"amdx"

Just remeber, as I understand it, most CFL's are not made to be run
upside down.

BULL****! Most light bulbs are installed upside down, maybe you need a
good whack upside the head!!


** Some CFLs are alleged to have a shorter life if run bulb upwards.

So bulb down is the norm.


I thought it was just the opposite - and I surmised that the reason was
that the bulb was the heat source, and putting it ABOVE the base allowed
most of that heat to dissipate via convection.


** Bulb down IS the norm for incandescent lamps and in most case CFLs too.

For lamps used in open fittings, there is no significant difference in temp
rise.

Fittings that trap air around the base of a CFL will cause the electronics
to overheat whatever way up the are.

So the allegation is meaningless.



.... Phil

In article ,
"Phil Allison" wrote:

"Joe"
"Phil Allison"
"Shaun"
"amdx"

Just remeber, as I understand it, most CFL's are not made to be run
upside down.

BULL****! Most light bulbs are installed upside down, maybe you need a
good whack upside the head!!


** Some CFLs are alleged to have a shorter life if run bulb upwards.

So bulb down is the norm.


I thought it was just the opposite - and I surmised that the reason was
that the bulb was the heat source, and putting it ABOVE the base allowed
most of that heat to dissipate via convection.


** Bulb down IS the norm for incandescent lamps and in most case CFLs too.

For lamps used in open fittings, there is no significant difference in temp
rise.

Fittings that trap air around the base of a CFL will cause the electronics
to overheat whatever way up the are.

So the allegation is meaningless.



... Phil

Which allegation is that? YOUR allegation

1. ** Bulb down IS the norm for incandescent lamps and in most case
CFLs too.

or

2. For lamps used in open fittings, there is no significant difference
in temp rise.

or

3. Fittings that trap air around the base of a CFL will cause the
electronics to overheat whatever way up the are.

--- Joe

On Fri, 13 Dec 2013 10:39:57 -0800, (David
Platt) wrote:

According to one U.S. Government document I read yesterday, CFLs which
have the Energy Star labeling are required to work equally well in any
orientation, *unless* the manufacturer specifically labels them
otherwise.

I think that appeared about 8-10 years ago, when someone figured out
how to equally distribute the mercury in the bulb. Prior to that, the
orientation had a big effect on output and color:
http://www.lrc.rpi.edu/programs/nlpip/lightinganswers/hwcfl/HWCFL-lamp-orientation.asp
http://eetd.lbl.gov/newsletter/cbs_nl/nl01/cbs-nl1-notcool.html

Wouldn't surprise me if this isn't very well enforced, though. I've
had some fairly poor-lifetime results from some of the cheapie CFLs,
no matter what orientation we use them in. And, it's quite
disconcerting when their failure mode involves a hot base and
nasty-smelling smoke. :-(

Agreed. I've also done a post mortem on the CFL base and found fried
components, mostly bulging electrolytic caps, and overheated PCB's.
However, I've only torn apart a few, all of which came from the same
source (dollar store).

Has anybody come across a good source for good LED-based ceiling
fixtures? Seems to me that the real "win" for LED lighting isn't in
"screw-in" replacement for existing incandescent bulbs (heat build-up,
less-than-wonderful light dispersion) but for ceiling-mountable
fixtures with a broader array of LEDs and a diffuser. This would
spread out the heat of the LEDs into a much larger
radiating/convection area and reduce the "bright points of light"
effect.

You might be able to build something out of LED lighting strips.
www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=led lighting strip
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/flexible-strips-and-bars/
Glue them to an aluminum plate. Add a diffuser and dimmer.
One of my neighbors built one for a customer and made a few big
mistakes. LED's are more efficient, but they still put out plenty of
heat. There's a fairly large air gap between a CFL or incandescent
bulb and anything that might catch fire. Not so with the stick on LED
lights. The ceiling (material unknown) got rather toasty hot. You'll
need an air gap, and some air flow between the heatsink and ceiling.

If I could find a nice-looking panel 18"-24" square, which could
radiate the equivalent of 5000+ lumens of warm-white (e.g. three
100-watt incandescent bulbs or more) I'd replace the old three-bulb
ceiling fixture in our family room like a shot. We've got CFLs in it,
but they're so bulky I had to remove the diffuser... doesn't look
wonderful.

Time for some math. Skimming through the available white LED strips,
and picking this one as a likely candidate (because they have specs):
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/flexible-strips-and-bars/
For warm white (3000K), one foot of LED's produces 115 lm/ft, and
burns 1.1 watts of power. To obtain 5000 lumens, you'll need
5000 lm / 115 lm/ft = 44 ft
of LED strips. LED's per foot is:
12 in / 0.651 inch_spacing = 18.4 LED's/ft
for a total of:
18.4 LED's/ft * 44ft = 811 LED's
Power consumption would be:
1.1 watts/ft * 44ft = 48.4 watts
Assuming staggered adjacent rows and 0.5" spacing between strips, and
0.651" between LED's along each strip, the size of the array would be
roughly 18" x 15" or 30 strips, 18" long, spaced 1/2" apart. Yeah, it
would fit and probably work.



--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 06:25:05 -0500, Hench wrote:

Nobody makes CFL bulbs in America so don't look for
American made CFL, because they do no exist.

Perhaps assembled in America?
http://bowmanlamps.wordpress.com/2012/06/26/buy-american-cfl-light-bulbs-assembled-in-the-usa/

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"Joe"
"Phil Allison"
"Joe"
"Phil Allison"
"Shaun"
"amdx"

Just remeber, as I understand it, most CFL's are not made to be
run
upside down.

BULL****! Most light bulbs are installed upside down, maybe you need
a
good whack upside the head!!


** Some CFLs are alleged to have a shorter life if run bulb upwards.

So bulb down is the norm.


I thought it was just the opposite - and I surmised that the reason was
that the bulb was the heat source, and putting it ABOVE the base
allowed
most of that heat to dissipate via convection.


** Bulb down IS the norm for incandescent lamps and in most case CFLs
too.

For lamps used in open fittings, there is no significant difference in
temp
rise.

Fittings that trap air around the base of a CFL will cause the
electronics
to overheat whatever way up the are.

So the allegation is meaningless.


Which allegation is that?


** The one with the word "alleged " in front it - ****wit.

Rest of your trolling bull**** flushed where it deserves.

FOAD

..... Phil

"Joe" wrote in message
.. .
I'd like to purchase some CFLs that have light output and color
temperature very similar to a standard 100 Watt incandescent bulb.
Also, it would be best if it fits within the size envelope of a standard
100 Watt incandescent bulb, so that it will fit in some enclosed
fixtures.

Anyone have a specific CFL that fills the bill?

Thanks.

--- Joe


You are, of course, having a larf ... ?

Arfa

In article ,
"Arfa Daily" wrote:

"Joe" wrote in message
.. .
I'd like to purchase some CFLs that have light output and color
temperature very similar to a standard 100 Watt incandescent bulb.
Also, it would be best if it fits within the size envelope of a standard
100 Watt incandescent bulb, so that it will fit in some enclosed
fixtures.

Anyone have a specific CFL that fills the bill?

Thanks.

--- Joe


You are, of course, having a larf ... ?

Arfa

No.

This whole discussion was quite enlightening, and makes me conclude that
CFLs may just be a temporary stop on the way from tungsten-incandescent
to LED lighting.

I have received several kinds of CFL freebies in the last 5 or 10 years.
The latest batch of freebies is so bad, I probably will trash them.
They put out such an eerie blue light, and dim at that, it seems like it
ought to be used for the lighting of a morgue set in a Friday the 13th
movie.

Fortunately I still have some time before my supply of 100 Watt
tungsten-incandescents disappears.

I DO want to avoid buying a really trashy CFL, and want to buy a good
one while I still have some time left on the tungsten-incandescent
supply.

--- Joe

On 12/16/2013 11:01 PM, Joe wrote:
In article ,
"Arfa Daily" wrote:

"Joe" wrote in message
.. .
I'd like to purchase some CFLs that have light output and color
temperature very similar to a standard 100 Watt incandescent bulb.
Also, it would be best if it fits within the size envelope of a standard
100 Watt incandescent bulb, so that it will fit in some enclosed
fixtures.

Anyone have a specific CFL that fills the bill?

Thanks.

--- Joe


You are, of course, having a larf ... ?

Arfa

No.

This whole discussion was quite enlightening, and makes me conclude that
CFLs may just be a temporary stop on the way from tungsten-incandescent
to LED lighting.

I have received several kinds of CFL freebies in the last 5 or 10 years.
The latest batch of freebies is so bad, I probably will trash them.
They put out such an eerie blue light, and dim at that, it seems like it
ought to be used for the lighting of a morgue set in a Friday the 13th
movie.

Fortunately I still have some time before my supply of 100 Watt
tungsten-incandescents disappears.

I DO want to avoid buying a really trashy CFL, and want to buy a good
one while I still have some time left on the tungsten-incandescent
supply.

--- Joe

Didn't we already conclude that the in-house brand at Lowes or Home
Depot are good bulbs? I use the 100W warm white which is an equivalent
to a 100W incandescent (which are still available, you just have to buy
clear ones). Mine are in Ceramic light sockets on the ceiling and they
point down.

On 12/17/2013 1:01 AM, Joe wrote:
In article ,
"Arfa Daily" wrote:

"Joe" wrote in message
.. .
I'd like to purchase some CFLs that have light output and color
temperature very similar to a standard 100 Watt incandescent bulb.
Also, it would be best if it fits within the size envelope of a standard
100 Watt incandescent bulb, so that it will fit in some enclosed
fixtures.

Anyone have a specific CFL that fills the bill?

Thanks.

--- Joe


You are, of course, having a larf ... ?

Arfa

No.

This whole discussion was quite enlightening, and makes me conclude that
CFLs may just be a temporary stop on the way from tungsten-incandescent
to LED lighting.

I have pontificated that idea myself.

Fortunately I still have some time before my supply of 100 Watt
tungsten-incandescents disappears.

I don't know why I didn't stock up myself.

I DO want to avoid buying a really trashy CFL, and want to buy a good
one

I like the incandescent color of the Cree LED bulb from Home Depot
2700K. The downside, if you want to equal a 100 watt incandescent,
is it's only 800 lumens. For some fixtures it would be nice to have
an adapter to hold two bulbs, to have nearly equal lumens.
I still hate 6000K bulbs in the morning at first rising, after light
adjustment there good.
Mikek

"Joe" wrote in message
.. .
In article ,
"Arfa Daily" wrote:

"Joe" wrote in message
.. .
I'd like to purchase some CFLs that have light output and color
temperature very similar to a standard 100 Watt incandescent bulb.
Also, it would be best if it fits within the size envelope of a
standard
100 Watt incandescent bulb, so that it will fit in some enclosed
fixtures.

Anyone have a specific CFL that fills the bill?

Thanks.

--- Joe


You are, of course, having a larf ... ?

Arfa

No.

This whole discussion was quite enlightening, and makes me conclude that
CFLs may just be a temporary stop on the way from tungsten-incandescent
to LED lighting.

I have received several kinds of CFL freebies in the last 5 or 10 years.
The latest batch of freebies is so bad, I probably will trash them.
They put out such an eerie blue light, and dim at that, it seems like it
ought to be used for the lighting of a morgue set in a Friday the 13th
movie.

Fortunately I still have some time before my supply of 100 Watt
tungsten-incandescents disappears.

I DO want to avoid buying a really trashy CFL, and want to buy a good
one while I still have some time left on the tungsten-incandescent
supply.

--- Joe


I was merely trying - in a faintly amusing way - to put the case that the
animal you are looking for does not exist, nor probably ever will. Some
substitute lighting technologies (note 'substitute', not 'replacement') will
fulfill one or two of your criteria, and others a couple of different ones.
I have yet to find the CFL or LED that has a satisfactory light output at a
traditional incandescent colour temperature with a similar CRI and in a
package that doesn't look like it belongs in The Jetsons ...

Many years ago, we owned a children's day nursery and the building's
ceilings were very high making light bulbs a real mission to replace. So we
went for the latest thing that had just come out claiming huge reliability
times - the CFL ! The ones that we used were under the Dulux (as in paint)
brand and were called Dulux EL Globes. The outer envelope was about 5" in
diameter. I have to say that even given that this was 20 years ago, they
were the best CFLs I have ever seen. And they were extremely reliable, if a
little expensive at about £11 ($17) a pop as I recall. Most were still going
strong when we sold the business after 12 years.

We now have a diner and have recently refitted it, and I have found some
CFLs very similar in appearance to those early Dulux ones. They are a
Toolstation product, and very reasonably priced. We have put seven of them
over tables, and I have to say that I am impressed by the light output, it's
colour, and its CRI. However, they are probably 3 or 4" in diameter, so you
need an appropriate setting in which to use them. I believe they are made by
Sylvania.

A shop that I do work for changed all his incandescent ceiling downlighters
and spots to LED earlier this year. I felt obliged to tell him that from the
outside, the shop looked closed, and from the inside, it was like Santa's
grotto ... So he changed them all to warm white ones. It's better, but the
overall effect is still not what it was when the shop was lit
conventionally. One thing about LEDs is that because they are point sources
of light, the manufacturers have to burn then very bright to try to get
enough of a light spread from them. This means that in order to get a
similar level of illumination to that from an incandescent downlighter bulb,
they burn bright enough to take your eyeballs out if you happen to glance up
at them. I see this as a big design problem at the current level of the
technology.

Arfa

In article ,
"Arfa Daily" wrote:

snip
with a similar CRI and in a
package that doesn't look like it belongs in The Jetsons ...

What is "CRI" ?

--- Joe

"Joe" wrote in message
.. .
In article ,
"Arfa Daily" wrote:

snip
with a similar CRI and in a
package that doesn't look like it belongs in The Jetsons ...

What is "CRI" ?

--- Joe


Colour Rendition Index. It is the ability of the light source to produce
accurate rendition of colours, and depends on the mix and relative
amplitudes of the individual colour wavelengths in the radiated spectrum of
the light source.

A bit wordy but a good description here :

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_rendering_index

And this one with some examples :

http://www.fullspectrumsolutions.com/cri_explained.htm

Arfa

On 12/17/2013 8:49 AM, amdx wrote:

I like the incandescent color of the Cree LED bulb from Home Depot
2700K. The downside, if you want to equal a 100 watt incandescent,
is it's only 800 lumens. For some fixtures it would be nice to have
an adapter to hold two bulbs, to have nearly equal lumens.
I still hate 6000K bulbs in the morning at first rising, after light
adjustment there good.
Mikek

Cree has a 75w LED bulb coming out soon.

"Congoleum Breckenridge" wrote in message
...
On 12/17/2013 8:49 AM, amdx wrote:

I like the incandescent color of the Cree LED bulb from Home Depot
2700K. The downside, if you want to equal a 100 watt incandescent,
is it's only 800 lumens. For some fixtures it would be nice to have
an adapter to hold two bulbs, to have nearly equal lumens.
I still hate 6000K bulbs in the morning at first rising, after light
adjustment there good.
Mikek

Cree has a 75w LED bulb coming out soon.



75 watt actual or 75 watt equivalent ... ? :-)

Arfa

On 12/19/2013 9:09 PM, Arfa Daily wrote:


"Congoleum Breckenridge" wrote in message
...
On 12/17/2013 8:49 AM, amdx wrote:


Mikek

Cree has a 75w LED bulb coming out soon.



75 watt actual or 75 watt equivalent ... ? :-)

Arfa
equivalent

"Congoleum Breckenridge" wrote in message
...
On 12/19/2013 9:09 PM, Arfa Daily wrote:


"Congoleum Breckenridge" wrote in message
...
On 12/17/2013 8:49 AM, amdx wrote:


Mikek

Cree has a 75w LED bulb coming out soon.



75 watt actual or 75 watt equivalent ... ? :-)

Arfa
equivalent


Ah, good ! I was just thinking that there was going to be an epidemic of
people going blind ... :-)

Arfa

On 12/21/2013 06:43 AM, Arfa Daily wrote:


"Congoleum Breckenridge" wrote in message
...
On 12/19/2013 9:09 PM, Arfa Daily wrote:


"Congoleum Breckenridge" wrote in message
...
On 12/17/2013 8:49 AM, amdx wrote:


Mikek

Cree has a 75w LED bulb coming out soon.



75 watt actual or 75 watt equivalent ... ? :-)

Arfa
equivalent


Ah, good ! I was just thinking that there was going to be an epidemic of
people going blind ... :-)

Arfa

40W appliance bulbs and 130V 100W aviation lamps will be around forever,
for quick example. 3-way lamps are also exempt, and some of them go to
300W. I am going to build a 3 way bulb current limiter. Right now I have
to change bulbs depending on the expected current draw.

dave forklarede:

40W appliance bulbs and 130V 100W aviation lamps will be around forever, for
quick example. 3-way lamps are also exempt, and some of them go to 300W. I am
going to build a 3 way bulb current limiter. Right now I have to change bulbs
depending on the expected current draw.


"130V 100W aviation lamps"? Why would you not want to use LEDS here?

Leif

--
Husk kørelys bagpå, hvis din bilfabrikant har taget den idiotiske
beslutning at undlade det.

"Leif Neland" wrote in message
...
dave forklarede:

40W appliance bulbs and 130V 100W aviation lamps will be around forever,
for quick example. 3-way lamps are also exempt, and some of them go to
300W. I am going to build a 3 way bulb current limiter. Right now I have
to change bulbs depending on the expected current draw.


"130V 100W aviation lamps"? Why would you not want to use LEDS here?

Leif

--
Husk kørelys bagpå, hvis din bilfabrikant har taget den idiotiske
beslutning at undlade det.


I was thinking that. LEDs would have to be more reliable I would have
thought, and in a place where reliability is of paramount importance,
surely, that would be a good thing ?? As to my comments about the 75 watt
LED, I was being facetious. As in an LED fixture that consumed 75 watts
would be blinding. I have some 10 watt white LEDs, and you don't even want
to look at them obliquely, let alone anything like straight on ...

Arfa

On 12/21/2013 10:09 AM, Arfa Daily wrote:


"Leif Neland" wrote in message
...
dave forklarede:

40W appliance bulbs and 130V 100W aviation lamps will be around
forever, for quick example. 3-way lamps are also exempt, and some of
them go to 300W. I am going to build a 3 way bulb current limiter.
Right now I have to change bulbs depending on the expected current draw.


"130V 100W aviation lamps"? Why would you not want to use LEDS here?

Leif

--
Husk kørelys bagpå, hvis din bilfabrikant har taget den idiotiske
beslutning at undlade det.


I was thinking that. LEDs would have to be more reliable I would have
thought, and in a place where reliability is of paramount importance,
surely, that would be a good thing ?? As to my comments about the 75
watt LED, I was being facetious. As in an LED fixture that consumed 75
watts would be blinding. I have some 10 watt white LEDs, and you don't
even want to look at them obliquely, let alone anything like straight on
...

Arfa

I'm not sure there is an FAA spec for LED lampage. Strobes are legal
if you turn them way up in the daytime, or paint your structure with
alternating white and orange stripes.

Still, these are the lights that don't flash and they are built to last
a long time. Killer bulbs.

The 250 Watt beacons are the lights that flash. They have fresnel
lenses and other beam forming requirements. There's a video of Bob
Silliman changing a beacon on the Empire State BUilding on YouTube.