"Phil Allison" wrote in message
...

"William Sommer******"

** Bill - you are just another boring usenet ******,
a TROLL and a complete ****wit.

D R O P DEAD


My arrows must be hitting their mark, if I am requested to decease. *

You can always spot the really stupid ones -- they poke fun at my name.

* Have you ever noticed "deceased" is self-contradictory? A "deceased"
person would be someone who's come back to life.

Even his blow-up sheep are ignoring him.

To change the subject... That reminds me of what was arguably Karnak's best
"reading".

Karnak (holding envelope to head): "Sis. Boom. Bah." (opening envelope)
"What is the sound of an exploding sheep?"

"William Sommer******"


** Bill - you are just another boring, NARCISSISTIC usenet ******,
a TROLL and a complete ****wit.


Get cancer and ****ing DIE

"Mark Zacharias"


** Lumps of autistic, sub human **** like YOU are a dime a dozen.

And the cause of ALL the trouble on this planet.



...... Phil

On Mon, 28 Feb 2011 23:31:29 +1100, Phil Allison wrote:

"William Sommer******"


** Bill - you are just another boring, NARCISSISTIC usenet ******,
a TROLL and a complete ****wit.


Get cancer and ****ing DIE

How about wishing death upon me? Am I not good enough anymore?



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

On Sun, 27 Feb 2011 19:15:34 -0500, Wild_Bill wrote:

I haven't any background experience to make suggestions, but this
perplexing circuit you're seeing sounds a like the schematic I looked at
for the *Peavey Mace A* series (6, 6L6GC output tubes). That's sounds
like how the schematic was drawn, although I haven't see the actual
circuit layout of that model.. separate resistors were used for each
tube of one pair.. then another pair was wired direct, while the third
pair had 2 more separate resistors shown between those pairs (appearing
like the 2 resistors were wired in series between those 2 pairs).

There seem to be numerous similarities in many PV amp model schematics
of the power output sections, but then some specific oddities in a
couple of models' schematics that look out of place (to me, anyway).

One thing that I have discovered recently, is that there are a huge
number of PV amp users, and lots of forum discussions about many
modifications (some that have produced results, and some that don't) and
also repairs. You're probably already aware that many forum discussions
wrt electronic circuits can include unintentional errors and/or other
misleading info (this mod I came up with is the ultimate! for example),
so that much of the forum info needs to be pondered and then either
accepted or rejected by one's better judgement and/or experience.. and
compared to the rule: if it werks, don't **** with it.

As I've only recently started dabbling in this area, I've noticed one
thing that's prevalent.. practially every component in/on guitars and
amps have been tampered with and replaced, and the majority of reports
of the actors claim that the acts produce amazing results.

I own a 1975 PV Artist 1x15". I bought it back in the mid 80's. PV didn't
deviate much from this design in their later years. I also own a PV MX -
VTX 1x12". Again not much change as for PV the apple never seems to fall
far from the tree.

My current guitar amp config is a PV Tube Fex FX/stereo preamp into a
Studiomaster 700D. That sits on top a PV 4x12" cabinet wired in stereo.
Two stock PV 12's and two Jackson (red cone) 12's. I got the cabinet for
a song and a dance and it sounds as good as any Marshall 1960 cabinet
I've ever played through.







--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

Get cancer and ****ing DIE

How about wishing death upon me? Am I not
good enough anymore?

You're going to have to come up with a remark that really strikes home. I
lucked out.

On Mon, 28 Feb 2011 10:16:30 -0800, William Sommerwerck wrote:

Get cancer and ****ing DIE

How about wishing death upon me? Am I not good enough anymore?

You're going to have to come up with a remark that really strikes home.
I lucked out.

Phil is unpredictable in his lashing out. Sometimes the slightest thing
sets him off. Last year he said I should die by a shotgun. I just
wondered if his feelings have changed.



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

William Sommerwerck wrote:

? Even his blow-up sheep are ignoring him.

To change the subject... That reminds me of what was arguably Karnak's best
"reading".

Karnak (holding envelope to head): "Sis. Boom. Bah." (opening envelope)
"What is the sound of an exploding sheep?"


Karnak always was weird. ;-)


--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

"Phil Allison" wrote in message ...


"Charles the Puke "

Until P.A. develops a reasonable command of English

** Whaaattttt ??

My command of the English language is second to none

- you vile, autistic ****head.

Well, there you go Phil! You re-entered the discussion and shot your own
foot off. Vile means repulsive and autistic means withdrawn and ****head
means you!

If you ever went to school, go see them (the headmasters) and demand that
your money (or that of your keepers) be returned.

Charles wrote:

"Phil Allison" wrote in message ...

"Charles the Puke "

Until P.A. develops a reasonable command of English

** Whaaattttt ??

My command of the English language is second to none

- you vile, autistic ****head.

Well, there you go Phil! You re-entered the discussion and shot your own
foot off. Vile means repulsive and autistic means withdrawn and ****head
means you!

If you ever went to school, go see them (the headmasters) and demand that
your money (or that of your keepers) be returned.


Careful, Charles. Phil's favorite 'things' are sheep, and teachers.


--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

So, today, I did the mods that the customer was asking for. The value and
type of a coupling cap in the overdrive channel was changed. The input
circuitry was stripped and simplified to standard Fender style - i.e. a 68k
series resistor from input jack to the grid of the first 12AX7, and a 1M
grid return to deck. The fixed negative bias to the grids of the output
tubes was disconnected, and the injection point decked, and the cathodes
were lifted from deck and returned instead via a 100 ohm 4 watt resistor,
bypassed by 100uF.

I also put an additional 1 ohm resistor in the cathode path, so that I was
able to measure the idle current of the output stage. This settled at about
130mA, or just over 30mA per tube, which was exactly what the author of the
mod notes suggested it should be.

I have to say that after carrying out these mods, the amp did seem to have a
much 'smoother' more Fender-like sound, and was still capable of producing
pretty much its full normal output of around 30 watts. I do not have a
sufficiently 'musical' ear to know if the revised sound is what the owner is
looking for, but it did seem to have a very sweet sound, to me. He is
picking it up tomorrow morning, so I guess I should know if he's happy with
it, in fairly short order ...

Arfa

"Arfa Daily is a ****wit "

So, today, I did the mods that the customer was asking for. The value and
type of a coupling cap in the overdrive channel was changed. The input
circuitry was stripped and simplified to standard Fender style - i.e. a
68k series resistor from input jack to the grid of the first 12AX7, and a
1M grid return to deck.


** Does nothing.

The fixed negative bias to the grids of the output tubes was
disconnected, and the injection point decked, and the cathodes were lifted
from deck and returned instead via a 100 ohm 4 watt resistor, bypassed by
100uF.

** Ruins the amp.

The cathode voltage now rises up with increasing drive level and at full
drive biases the tubes almost completely off.

This result is gross waveform distortion of the crossover kind - same as
severely under biasing the amp.

Very bad mod.


I also put an additional 1 ohm resistor in the cathode path, so that I was
able to measure the idle current of the output stage. This settled at
about 130mA, or just over 30mA per tube, which was exactly what the author
of the mod notes suggested it should be.

** So ****ing what.

That is only the idle current.


I have to say that after carrying out these mods, the amp did seem to have
a much 'smoother' more Fender-like sound, and was still capable of
producing pretty much its full normal output of around 30 watts.

** Utter bull****.

As anyone with a functioning scope, dummy load and eyes can see.



..... Phil

On Wed, 02 Mar 2011 02:47:24 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:

So, today, I did the mods that the customer was asking for. The value
and type of a coupling cap in the overdrive channel was changed. The
input circuitry was stripped and simplified to standard Fender style -
i.e. a 68k series resistor from input jack to the grid of the first
12AX7, and a 1M grid return to deck. The fixed negative bias to the
grids of the output tubes was disconnected, and the injection point
decked, and the cathodes were lifted from deck and returned instead via
a 100 ohm 4 watt resistor, bypassed by 100uF.

I also put an additional 1 ohm resistor in the cathode path, so that I
was able to measure the idle current of the output stage. This settled
at about 130mA, or just over 30mA per tube, which was exactly what the
author of the mod notes suggested it should be.

I have to say that after carrying out these mods, the amp did seem to
have a much 'smoother' more Fender-like sound, and was still capable of
producing pretty much its full normal output of around 30 watts. I do
not have a sufficiently 'musical' ear to know if the revised sound is
what the owner is looking for, but it did seem to have a very sweet
sound, to me. He is picking it up tomorrow morning, so I guess I should
know if he's happy with it, in fairly short order ...

Arfa

Tone, the sometimes elusive prey in a jungle of equipment. That's what it
all boils down to. My favorite of all time combo amps is the Ampeg VT-22
loaded with a pair of Altec-Lansing 12's. It was my first 100 watter
combo back in the late 70's. If you think a Twin loaded with a pair of
EV SRO's is heavy lift a VT-22 with the Altecs loaded. I ended up trading
it for a 1x15 PV Artist combo around 1982. Still have that old beast.

I'm currently restoring a 1960's Ampeg Jet12. Uses a PP pair of EL84's
for output so it's around 15 watts. Someone has replaced the original
12" Ampeg speaker with a Vox. It's not much to look at but it's one
of those amps that are known for their tone. I've owned it for a decade.
One of those projects you eventually get to.

Hope your customer likes the mods.



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

On Wed, 02 Mar 2011 14:23:48 +1100, Phil Allison wrote:

"Phil Allison is a ****wit Troll "


We all agree.


--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

"Phil Allison" wrote in message
...

"Arfa Daily is a ****wit "

So, today, I did the mods that the customer was asking for. The value and
type of a coupling cap in the overdrive channel was changed. The input
circuitry was stripped and simplified to standard Fender style - i.e. a
68k series resistor from input jack to the grid of the first 12AX7, and a
1M grid return to deck.


** Does nothing.

The fixed negative bias to the grids of the output tubes was
disconnected, and the injection point decked, and the cathodes were
lifted from deck and returned instead via a 100 ohm 4 watt resistor,
bypassed by 100uF.

** Ruins the amp.

The cathode voltage now rises up with increasing drive level and at full
drive biases the tubes almost completely off.

This result is gross waveform distortion of the crossover kind - same as
severely under biasing the amp.

Very bad mod.


I also put an additional 1 ohm resistor in the cathode path, so that I
was able to measure the idle current of the output stage. This settled at
about 130mA, or just over 30mA per tube, which was exactly what the
author of the mod notes suggested it should be.

** So ****ing what.

That is only the idle current.


I have to say that after carrying out these mods, the amp did seem to
have a much 'smoother' more Fender-like sound, and was still capable of
producing pretty much its full normal output of around 30 watts.

** Utter bull****.

As anyone with a functioning scope, dummy load and eyes can see.



.... Phil



I have a functioning scope, and a functioning generator, and a functioning
dummy load, and a functioning power meter, and functioning eyes, and
contrary to what you believe, it most certainly did not distort in any way,
least of all in a "crossover kind" of way, up to full output stage drive. So
it just goes to show what you (don't) know.

And far from "ruining the amp", the owner is actually delighted with it.
Before taking it away, he spent a good half hour here playing into it, and I
can assure you that he is not some kid who doesn't know a transistor amp
from a valve amp from a megaphone. He was actually a very accomplished
musician, and I would take his opinion of the sound of the amp over your
surmised one, any day. In fact, about 3 hours after he took it back home, he
contacted me again to say that he had only just stopped playing into it,
because his fingers hurt, and that there was no comparison to the way it
originally sounded. I'm sure that you will want to come back with another
tirade of ill-considered expletives, but don't waste your time, Philip. I
really don't actually care what you think or believe ...

Arfa

"Meat Plow" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 02 Mar 2011 02:47:24 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:

So, today, I did the mods that the customer was asking for. The value
and type of a coupling cap in the overdrive channel was changed. The
input circuitry was stripped and simplified to standard Fender style -
i.e. a 68k series resistor from input jack to the grid of the first
12AX7, and a 1M grid return to deck. The fixed negative bias to the
grids of the output tubes was disconnected, and the injection point
decked, and the cathodes were lifted from deck and returned instead via
a 100 ohm 4 watt resistor, bypassed by 100uF.

I also put an additional 1 ohm resistor in the cathode path, so that I
was able to measure the idle current of the output stage. This settled
at about 130mA, or just over 30mA per tube, which was exactly what the
author of the mod notes suggested it should be.

I have to say that after carrying out these mods, the amp did seem to
have a much 'smoother' more Fender-like sound, and was still capable of
producing pretty much its full normal output of around 30 watts. I do
not have a sufficiently 'musical' ear to know if the revised sound is
what the owner is looking for, but it did seem to have a very sweet
sound, to me. He is picking it up tomorrow morning, so I guess I should
know if he's happy with it, in fairly short order ...

Arfa

Tone, the sometimes elusive prey in a jungle of equipment. That's what it
all boils down to. My favorite of all time combo amps is the Ampeg VT-22
loaded with a pair of Altec-Lansing 12's. It was my first 100 watter
combo back in the late 70's. If you think a Twin loaded with a pair of
EV SRO's is heavy lift a VT-22 with the Altecs loaded. I ended up trading
it for a 1x15 PV Artist combo around 1982. Still have that old beast.

I'm currently restoring a 1960's Ampeg Jet12. Uses a PP pair of EL84's
for output so it's around 15 watts. Someone has replaced the original
12" Ampeg speaker with a Vox. It's not much to look at but it's one
of those amps that are known for their tone. I've owned it for a decade.
One of those projects you eventually get to.

Hope your customer likes the mods.



He does. See my other post

Arfa

"Arfa Daily is a ****wit "

So, today, I did the mods that the customer was asking for. The value
and type of a coupling cap in the overdrive channel was changed. The
input circuitry was stripped and simplified to standard Fender style -
i.e. a 68k series resistor from input jack to the grid of the first
12AX7, and a 1M grid return to deck.


** Does nothing.

The fixed negative bias to the grids of the output tubes was
disconnected, and the injection point decked, and the cathodes were
lifted from deck and returned instead via a 100 ohm 4 watt resistor,
bypassed by 100uF.

** Ruins the amp.

The cathode voltage now rises up with increasing drive level and at full
drive biases the tubes almost completely off.

This result is gross waveform distortion of the crossover kind - same
as severely under biasing the amp.

Very bad mod.


I also put an additional 1 ohm resistor in the cathode path, so that I
was able to measure the idle current of the output stage. This settled
at about 130mA, or just over 30mA per tube, which was exactly what the
author of the mod notes suggested it should be.

** So ****ing what.

That is only the idle current.


I have to say that after carrying out these mods, the amp did seem to
have a much 'smoother' more Fender-like sound, and was still capable of
producing pretty much its full normal output of around 30 watts.

** Utter bull****.

As anyone with a functioning scope, dummy load and eyes can see.


I have a functioning scope, and a functioning generator, and a functioning
dummy load, and a functioning power meter, and functioning eyes,

** Do you have a functioning DC volt meter?

Bother to measure the cathode voltage ??

Obviously you did NOT !!!

The cathode voltage rises dramatically under increasing drive with the
circuit you have installed.

No brand name guitar amp has a similar mis-behaving bias circuit.


And far from "ruining the amp", the owner is actually delighted with it.


** Yaaaawnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn.....

Guitarists are congenital ****wits - especially those who come asking for
wacho mods to be done.

Sounds like you and this guitar playing fool are a match made in heaven.


..... Phil

"Phil Allison" wrote in message
...
"Arfa Daily is a ****wit "

So, today, I did the mods that the customer was asking for. The value
and type of a coupling cap in the overdrive channel was changed. The
input circuitry was stripped and simplified to standard Fender style -
i.e. a 68k series resistor from input jack to the grid of the first
12AX7, and a 1M grid return to deck.


** Does nothing.

The fixed negative bias to the grids of the output tubes was
disconnected, and the injection point decked, and the cathodes were
lifted from deck and returned instead via a 100 ohm 4 watt resistor,
bypassed by 100uF.

** Ruins the amp.

The cathode voltage now rises up with increasing drive level and at full
drive biases the tubes almost completely off.

This result is gross waveform distortion of the crossover kind - same
as severely under biasing the amp.

Very bad mod.


I also put an additional 1 ohm resistor in the cathode path, so that I
was able to measure the idle current of the output stage. This settled
at about 130mA, or just over 30mA per tube, which was exactly what the
author of the mod notes suggested it should be.

** So ****ing what.

That is only the idle current.


I have to say that after carrying out these mods, the amp did seem to
have a much 'smoother' more Fender-like sound, and was still capable of
producing pretty much its full normal output of around 30 watts.

** Utter bull****.

As anyone with a functioning scope, dummy load and eyes can see.


I have a functioning scope, and a functioning generator, and a
functioning dummy load, and a functioning power meter, and functioning
eyes,

** Do you have a functioning DC volt meter?

Bother to measure the cathode voltage ??

Obviously you did NOT !!!

The cathode voltage rises dramatically under increasing drive with the
circuit you have installed.

No brand name guitar amp has a similar mis-behaving bias circuit.


And far from "ruining the amp", the owner is actually delighted with it.


** Yaaaawnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn.....

Guitarists are congenital ****wits - especially those who come asking for
wacho mods to be done.

Sounds like you and this guitar playing fool are a match made in heaven.


.... Phil



So, like I said. Just goes to show the **** all that you know. Let's take a
look for a moment, at the Vox AC30, shall we ? One of the most famous amps
using 4 x EL84 ever made. And guess what ? Cathode bias. What was it you
said ? Oh yes. " No brand name guitar amp has a similar mis-behaving bias
circuit." Dopey ****.


Now shut your stupid mouth, Philip, and **** off.

Arfa

That looks like a nice collection of gear.. but what do you do when you want
some volume?

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"Meat Plow" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 27 Feb 2011 19:15:34 -0500, Wild_Bill wrote:


I own a 1975 PV Artist 1x15". I bought it back in the mid 80's. PV didn't
deviate much from this design in their later years. I also own a PV MX -
VTX 1x12". Again not much change as for PV the apple never seems to fall
far from the tree.

My current guitar amp config is a PV Tube Fex FX/stereo preamp into a
Studiomaster 700D. That sits on top a PV 4x12" cabinet wired in stereo.
Two stock PV 12's and two Jackson (red cone) 12's. I got the cabinet for
a song and a dance and it sounds as good as any Marshall 1960 cabinet
I've ever played through.







--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

Pulling some legs Phil?

Yanking some chains?

Bollucks/dumbfoundness

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"Phil Allison" wrote in message

usenet etiquette REQUIRES.

"Wild_Bill"


** **** off - you stinking ****WIT TROLL

That uncanny ability to incite or anger, exists only within the confines of
your small mind Phil.

Go **** upwind if you can work up a stream

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"Phil Allison" wrote in message
...

win a free ipod

On Wed, 02 Mar 2011 23:37:34 -0500, Wild_Bill wrote:

That looks like a nice collection of gear.. but what do you do when you
want some volume?

--
Cheers,
WB
.............


LOL!


"Meat Plow" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 27 Feb 2011 19:15:34 -0500, Wild_Bill wrote:


I own a 1975 PV Artist 1x15". I bought it back in the mid 80's. PV
didn't deviate much from this design in their later years. I also own a
PV MX - VTX 1x12". Again not much change as for PV the apple never
seems to fall far from the tree.

My current guitar amp config is a PV Tube Fex FX/stereo preamp into a
Studiomaster 700D. That sits on top a PV 4x12" cabinet wired in stereo.
Two stock PV 12's and two Jackson (red cone) 12's. I got the cabinet
for a song and a dance and it sounds as good as any Marshall 1960
cabinet I've ever played through.







--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse






--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

These may help..

http://www.guitarpartssite.com/Allpa...132-023-AP.htm

Or, eBag item # 330463361907

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"Meat Plow" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 02 Mar 2011 23:37:34 -0500, Wild_Bill wrote:

That looks like a nice collection of gear.. but what do you do when you
want some volume?

--
Cheers,
WB
.............


LOL!


"Meat Plow" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 27 Feb 2011 19:15:34 -0500, Wild_Bill wrote:


I own a 1975 PV Artist 1x15". I bought it back in the mid 80's. PV
didn't deviate much from this design in their later years. I also own a
PV MX - VTX 1x12". Again not much change as for PV the apple never
seems to fall far from the tree.

My current guitar amp config is a PV Tube Fex FX/stereo preamp into a
Studiomaster 700D. That sits on top a PV 4x12" cabinet wired in stereo.
Two stock PV 12's and two Jackson (red cone) 12's. I got the cabinet
for a song and a dance and it sounds as good as any Marshall 1960
cabinet I've ever played through.







--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse






--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

On Thu, 03 Mar 2011 16:07:06 -0500, Wild_Bill wrote:

These may help..

http://www.guitarpartssite.com/Allpa...132-023-AP.htm

Or, eBag item # 330463361907

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

Believe or not, there is a reason to have a lot of headroom in a SS
guitar amp. I get all my sustain and crunch from the PV Tube Fex's 2 x
12AX7's. I've had several multi-fx units but that one even though its a
decade or more old beats them all hands down.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse