Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

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Default Where to find (affordable) Oven Set Control G.E.

Hi,

It looks like my oven set control, on my 1986 vintage GE
oven, is acting up. It sometimes works (turns on the oven element)
and sometimes doesn't. Last time it worked for a while, then shut
off, that is, the heat went down, until I rotated it through all the
settings, and back to "bake", when it started working again.

I guess the connections are getting old and worn. Is there some
way to just clean it ? I notice there are websites selling the
control, but for huge sums, equaling 2 days pay of a guy making $9 an
hour, minus taxes.

The average price seems to be about $115, for this one electronic
part. Yikes.

Is there a more affordable way to obtain the part? Is it possible
to just clean the part, and reuse it ?


The part number is WB22X5122, in a GE oven circa 1986.

GE website has it as "unavailable".

Yes, I know I got a lot of years out of it, but $116 is a lot for one
electronic switch.


Thanks
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Default Where to find (affordable) Oven Set Control G.E.

Well, I did find 2 new oven set controls on eBay for about $75 each,
which is a better price than $116. But is there some way to clean
the control ?

Thanks
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Default Where to find (affordable) Oven Set Control G.E.

On 12/26/2010 7:39 PM, Vacillator wrote:
Hi,

It looks like my oven set control, on my 1986 vintage GE
oven, is acting up. It sometimes works (turns on the oven element)
and sometimes doesn't. Last time it worked for a while, then shut
off, that is, the heat went down, until I rotated it through all the
settings, and back to "bake", when it started working again.

I guess the connections are getting old and worn. Is there some
way to just clean it ? I notice there are websites selling the
control, but for huge sums, equaling 2 days pay of a guy making $9 an
hour, minus taxes.

The average price seems to be about $115, for this one electronic
part. Yikes.

Is there a more affordable way to obtain the part? Is it possible
to just clean the part, and reuse it ?


The part number is WB22X5122, in a GE oven circa 1986.

GE website has it as "unavailable".

Yes, I know I got a lot of years out of it, but $116 is a lot for one
electronic switch.


The wonders of modern technology!

You haven't indicated what type of "control" it is
(pot, optical encoder, rotary switch, etc.) -- hard
to guess for someone not owning a similar oven!

Also, are you sure the problem is in the "knob"
and not in some bit of electronics that the knob
"talks to"?

E.g., if it wwas *my* oven, I would try swapping
the connections for that "knob" with those of
a similar knob and see if the problem "moves"
with the knob or stays in place regardless of
the change. Likewise, follow it back into the
bowels of the oven and swap things *there*
(i.e., the controls for the actual heating elements)
until you have positively isolated the source
of the problem. Else you are likely to spend
all that cash on the wrong part...
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Default Where to find (affordable) Oven Set Control G.E.

Item number: 290513338046





Flea-Bay used but with 90 day warranty for $17 INCLUDEING SHIPPING

how much cheaper do you want??? DONT clean the switch as this appears to
be an infinite awitch ( I could be wrong) why risk disaster when for less
then $20 total you could solve the problem SAFELY.

PS not my auction






"Vacillator" wrote in message
...
Well, I did find 2 new oven set controls on eBay for about $75 each,
which is a better price than $116. But is there some way to clean
the control ?

Thanks



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Default Where to find (affordable) Oven Set Control G.E.

On Dec 27, 1:28 am, "Harrison Lighting and Neon"
wrote:
Item number: 290513338046

Flea-Bay used but with 90 day warranty for $17 INCLUDEING SHIPPING

how much cheaper do you want??? DONT clean the switch as this appears to
be an infinite awitch ( I could be wrong) why risk disaster when for less
then $20 total you could solve the problem SAFELY.

PS not my auction



Thanks for finding that! The seller has 99.9 % satisfaction rating.
Hard to resist that price. You say not to clean it? You mean cleaning
it might make it short out once I hook it back up to power ?







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Default Where to find (affordable) Oven Set Control G.E.



The wonders of modern technology!

You haven't indicated what type of "control" it is
(pot, optical encoder, rotary switch, etc.) -- hard
to guess for someone not owning a similar oven!

Also, are you sure the problem is in the "knob"
and not in some bit of electronics that the knob
"talks to"?

E.g., if it wwas *my* oven, I would try swapping
the connections for that "knob" with those of
a similar knob and see if the problem "moves"
with the knob or stays in place regardless of
the change. Likewise, follow it back into the
bowels of the oven and swap things *there*
(i.e., the controls for the actual heating elements)
until you have positively isolated the source
of the problem. Else you are likely to spend
all that cash on the wrong part...


Thanks. The switch is a rotary mechanical switch. There isn't any
similar knob (switch behind the knob, actually) available on my stove.
I need to buy one and try it out. It's acting like the connections are
dirty or worn or both. Rotating the knob 360 degrees fixed the problem
last night. But eventually I will have to replace it, I think. May end
up ordering a used switch from eBay and hoping I get a good one.
Apparently they can be had fo about $16 plus shipping. Thanks to
other poster for that info.

Thanks again.
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Default Where to find (affordable) Oven Set Control G.E.

ANother question, if I may. There is a 10 inch tube sticking out of
the left rear of the oven, that goes into a round part on a bracket
which hangs down from the top of the oven. This round end of the
bracket encircles the end of the tube. There are 2 blobs of solder-
like material inside the round part of the bracket. The round part can
be moved left and right. The solder-like blobs are not connected to
the tube. Is this some sort of a switch that reacts to the heat level
in the oven ? Are those solder-like blobs supposed to be there ?

Thanks

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Default Where to find (affordable) Oven Set Control G.E.

On Dec 27, 9:42*am, Vacillator wrote:
* ANother question, if I may. *There is a 10 inch tube sticking out of
the left rear of the oven, that goes into a round part on a bracket
which hangs down from the top of the oven. *This round end of the
bracket encircles the end of the tube. There are 2 blobs of solder-
like material inside the round part of the bracket. The round part can
be moved left and right. The solder-like blobs are not connected to
the tube. Is this some sort of a switch that reacts to the heat level
in the oven ? *Are those solder-like blobs supposed to be there ?

Thanks


Your description sounds sort of like the 'Capilliary' of the oven
temperature switch. If so, it is simply held in position by the
bracket[s]' and actually needs to be able to float a bit with changing
heat.
Your description also could be the 'Calrod' top element that has
burned off and melted, but there would be the remainder of the loop
extending from the melted area on around and back through the top back
of the oven chamber.

Neil S.
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Default Where to find (affordable) Oven Set Control G.E.

On 12/27/2010 10:42 AM, Vacillator wrote:
ANother question, if I may. There is a 10 inch tube sticking out of
the left rear of the oven, that goes into a round part on a bracket
which hangs down from the top of the oven. This round end of the
bracket encircles the end of the tube. There are 2 blobs of solder-
like material inside the round part of the bracket. The round part can
be moved left and right. The solder-like blobs are not connected to
the tube. Is this some sort of a switch that reacts to the heat level
in the oven ? Are those solder-like blobs supposed to be there ?


This sense the oven temperature. If you were to trace the other
end of the tube, it goes to a temperature control.
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Default Where to find (affordable) Oven Set Control G.E.

Vacillator wrote:
Hi,

It looks like my oven set control, on my 1986 vintage GE
oven, is acting up. It sometimes works (turns on the oven element)
and sometimes doesn't. Last time it worked for a while, then shut
off, that is, the heat went down, until I rotated it through all the
settings, and back to "bake", when it started working again.

I guess the connections are getting old and worn. Is there some
way to just clean it ? I notice there are websites selling the
control, but for huge sums, equaling 2 days pay of a guy making $9 an
hour, minus taxes.

The average price seems to be about $115, for this one electronic
part. Yikes.

Is there a more affordable way to obtain the part? Is it possible
to just clean the part, and reuse it ?


The part number is WB22X5122, in a GE oven circa 1986.

GE website has it as "unavailable".

Yes, I know I got a lot of years out of it, but $116 is a lot for one
electronic switch.


**Before doing anything, look for any electrolytic caps. Replace 'em. That
solves 90% of electronic oven control problems. Caps are usually rated at
125 degrees C or higher and are difficult to obtain though.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au




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Default Where to find (affordable) Oven Set Control G.E.



Thanks. Do you mean "electrolytic capacitor" ? What do they look
like? I should mention that I accidentally shorted out the bake
element a few years ago, after which I had to switch the thermo to
"clean" to get the red light to go off when the oven selector was in
"off". Otherwise the oven functioned normally. But now I have the
above-mentioned problem, intermittent function of oven selector
switch.


**Before doing anything, look for any electrolytic caps. Replace 'em. That
solves 90% of electronic oven control problems. Caps are usually rated at
125 degrees C or higher and are difficult to obtain though.


--
Trevor Wilson

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Default Where to find (affordable) Oven Set Control G.E.

If the electric oven control is a single rotating knob type that controls
on/off, bake, etc, then it probably doesn't use any electronics or circuit
board for temperature control.. considering the type of control and the year
it was manufactured.

If you have separate controls for temperature, and another for bake, broil,
clean, then this selector switch should also be tested.

By referring to the electrical diagram that most appliances have attached to
them, you may also see some failsafe/safety limit switches which should be
tested.

The simplest of searches will reveal numerous results for testing, adjusting
and replacing electric oven temperature controllers.

http://www.fixitclub.com/Major_Appli...n.shtml?page=3

As the info in the above link points out, inspecting all of the connection
terminals is important.
Corroded, loose, heavily oxidized or badly discolored terminals should be
replaced, or at least brightened to achieve very good connections for
testing purposes, then replaced with new high temperature terminals only.

In my limited experience with electric oven (or other heating appliance)
controls, they're not intended to be serviced/cleaned or repaired.. they're
often assembled with rivets, not just screws.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"Vacillator" wrote in message
...
Hi,

It looks like my oven set control, on my 1986 vintage GE
oven, is acting up. It sometimes works (turns on the oven element)
and sometimes doesn't. Last time it worked for a while, then shut
off, that is, the heat went down, until I rotated it through all the
settings, and back to "bake", when it started working again.

I guess the connections are getting old and worn. Is there some
way to just clean it ? I notice there are websites selling the
control, but for huge sums, equaling 2 days pay of a guy making $9 an
hour, minus taxes.

The average price seems to be about $115, for this one electronic
part. Yikes.

Is there a more affordable way to obtain the part? Is it possible
to just clean the part, and reuse it ?


The part number is WB22X5122, in a GE oven circa 1986.

GE website has it as "unavailable".

Yes, I know I got a lot of years out of it, but $116 is a lot for one
electronic switch.


Thanks


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Default Where to find (affordable) Oven Set Control G.E.



"Vacillator" wrote in message
...


The wonders of modern technology!

You haven't indicated what type of "control" it is
(pot, optical encoder, rotary switch, etc.) -- hard
to guess for someone not owning a similar oven!

Also, are you sure the problem is in the "knob"
and not in some bit of electronics that the knob
"talks to"?

E.g., if it wwas *my* oven, I would try swapping
the connections for that "knob" with those of
a similar knob and see if the problem "moves"
with the knob or stays in place regardless of
the change. Likewise, follow it back into the
bowels of the oven and swap things *there*
(i.e., the controls for the actual heating elements)
until you have positively isolated the source
of the problem. Else you are likely to spend
all that cash on the wrong part...


Thanks. The switch is a rotary mechanical switch. There isn't any
similar knob (switch behind the knob, actually) available on my stove.
I need to buy one and try it out. It's acting like the connections are
dirty or worn or both. Rotating the knob 360 degrees fixed the problem
last night. But eventually I will have to replace it, I think. May end
up ordering a used switch from eBay and hoping I get a good one.
Apparently they can be had fo about $16 plus shipping. Thanks to
other poster for that info.

Thanks again.


I had the exact same problem on a cooker of mine here in the UK, which was
used every day to cook shedloads of bacon for one of my wife's cafes. The
switch was readily available at a reasonable price, but was going to take a
week to order in from the manufacturer's spares agent, so in the meantime, I
took the faulty one out (very easily removed with two screws through the
front panel, and pull-off spade tags.) Once removed, it was easy to see the
switch elements. These were simply heavy duty 'leaf' types with tungsten or
similar contact inserts in their ends - much as you might see on a heavy
duty relay. They were operated by individual cams moulded onto the shaft
that ran through the whole switch. There was a contact set for the oven
light, another for the fan, another for the oven element, and another for
the grill element. As expected, the contact set for the grill, was in less
than 'perfect' condition. I guess this is caused by whacking the temperature
knob up first, and then engaging the grill switch, causing it to 'hot
switch' the element, resulting in contact arcing. Much better to set the
function first, then turn up the grill 'stat, as the contacts on that, are
designed to hot switch. Anyways, the contact set was easily removed from the
switch body, which then made resurfacing the contacts with a piece of very
fine wet n dry paper, a doddle. Once the switch was reassembled, and
refitted to the cooker, it worked absolutely fine - and continues to do so
some six or more months later. The new switch duly arrived, but is currently
sitting in a drawer in my workshop as a spare. I see little point in fitting
it at this time, whilst the original switch continues to give normal
service.

I'm not sure that I understand why anyone would have a problem with cleaning
a set of contacts such as these. I have done it all my (long) working life
on everything from high power contactors to medium power switches and relays
, and it has never caused any problem. Obviously, it's not something that
can be done to restore switches with plated contacts, but that is not what
is generally employed in these types of power switching applications.

Arfa

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Default Where to find (affordable) Oven Set Control G.E.

Arfa,

Thanks for the informative reply. I have yet to
disassemble anything. I was hoping it would fix itself, or that I
would be able to figure out how to use the oven by tweaking the dials
in a certain way, but it is just getting worse, actually, so I will be
opening it up soon.
The switch on my oven in a bit different, of course, but, like
yours, it is a rotary mechanical, so possibly can be cleaned, of
course. I don't know if it is attached with screws, or rivets.
I will need to walk the oven out from the wall, get the front
panel off, then see what's there. It will be a weekend project, I
think.

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"Vacillator" wrote in message
...
Arfa,

Thanks for the informative reply. I have yet to
disassemble anything. I was hoping it would fix itself, or that I
would be able to figure out how to use the oven by tweaking the dials
in a certain way, but it is just getting worse, actually, so I will be
opening it up soon.
The switch on my oven in a bit different, of course, but, like
yours, it is a rotary mechanical, so possibly can be cleaned, of
course. I don't know if it is attached with screws, or rivets.
I will need to walk the oven out from the wall, get the front
panel off, then see what's there. It will be a weekend project, I
think.


Mine was actually exceptionally easy to get at. It's a 'range style' cooker.
One small oven with grill, one large oven with grill, and five gas burners
on top. The entire top actually hinged up from the back, after undoing a few
very obvious screws, and a couple of less obvious ones, concealed under the
burners, which of course just lift off for cleaning. I understand from a
friend who does this stuff for a living, that this is a common arrangement -
at least on UK cookers. Once the top was hinged up, a 'sub-deck' was
revealed, to which was fixed all the gas pipework and electrical wiring. The
front panel gas valves for the burners, and rotary switches for oven and
grill control, were completely exposed, fixed to the front panel. Once the
knobs were removed, and a couple more screws removed, the decorative front
panel just lifted away, exposing the fixings for the controls. The whole
dismantling procedure took just a few minutes. The actual switch that was
dodgy, was an open frame type, so easy to see the contacts. The shaft was
easy to remove. A spigot on the far end engaged with a hole in the switch
back-plate, and further forward, a half-round 'cap' secured by two screws,
held it to the main body. Think car crankshaft main bearing cap to get an
idea.

When mine first started giving trouble, it could be 'fixed' for a day or two
at a time, by careful rotation to the desired position, in one direction,
rather than the other. Don't really know why that should have been, but
perhaps the previous position to the one needed, lifted the contacts a bit
higher or something, so 'slammed' them back together a bit harder, or caused
them to 'wipe' a bit, maybe ??

Arfa



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Default Where to find (affordable) Oven Set Control G.E.

Vacillator wrote:

Is there a more affordable way to obtain the part?


I'm sure they got those stoves in the projects. Just knock on someone's
door and say, "I'll trade you some crack for a part of your stove."
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Update : Today I took off the front panel and all the screws,
etc, and actually got a look at the oven set switch. I had to remove 2
phillips head screws on the front of the switch to get it off the
panel. I could see into the switch a little bit through a hole, and
saw the shaft turn, but that was all I could see. I poked around at
the terminals to see if any were loose. Everything seemed to be tight,
and everything looked nice and shiny and new, surprisingly. I made
sure to touch all the connections, and jiggle all the wires on the
back of the oven set switch, and also on the thermostat, hoping to
"freshen up" any corroded or arced connections. I tested it after
reassembling it, and it was working normally again.

I'll have to use it a few more times, and see if it keeps working
properly.
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