"Vacillator" wrote in message
...


The wonders of modern technology!

You haven't indicated what type of "control" it is
(pot, optical encoder, rotary switch, etc.) -- hard
to guess for someone not owning a similar oven!

Also, are you sure the problem is in the "knob"
and not in some bit of electronics that the knob
"talks to"?

E.g., if it wwas *my* oven, I would try swapping
the connections for that "knob" with those of
a similar knob and see if the problem "moves"
with the knob or stays in place regardless of
the change. Likewise, follow it back into the
bowels of the oven and swap things *there*
(i.e., the controls for the actual heating elements)
until you have positively isolated the source
of the problem. Else you are likely to spend
all that cash on the wrong part...

Thanks. The switch is a rotary mechanical switch. There isn't any
similar knob (switch behind the knob, actually) available on my stove.
I need to buy one and try it out. It's acting like the connections are
dirty or worn or both. Rotating the knob 360 degrees fixed the problem
last night. But eventually I will have to replace it, I think. May end
up ordering a used switch from eBay and hoping I get a good one.
Apparently they can be had fo about $16 plus shipping. Thanks to
other poster for that info.

Thanks again.

I had the exact same problem on a cooker of mine here in the UK, which was
used every day to cook shedloads of bacon for one of my wife's cafes. The
switch was readily available at a reasonable price, but was going to take a
week to order in from the manufacturer's spares agent, so in the meantime, I
took the faulty one out (very easily removed with two screws through the
front panel, and pull-off spade tags.) Once removed, it was easy to see the
switch elements. These were simply heavy duty 'leaf' types with tungsten or
similar contact inserts in their ends - much as you might see on a heavy
duty relay. They were operated by individual cams moulded onto the shaft
that ran through the whole switch. There was a contact set for the oven
light, another for the fan, another for the oven element, and another for
the grill element. As expected, the contact set for the grill, was in less
than 'perfect' condition. I guess this is caused by whacking the temperature
knob up first, and then engaging the grill switch, causing it to 'hot
switch' the element, resulting in contact arcing. Much better to set the
function first, then turn up the grill 'stat, as the contacts on that, are
designed to hot switch. Anyways, the contact set was easily removed from the
switch body, which then made resurfacing the contacts with a piece of very
fine wet n dry paper, a doddle. Once the switch was reassembled, and
refitted to the cooker, it worked absolutely fine - and continues to do so
some six or more months later. The new switch duly arrived, but is currently
sitting in a drawer in my workshop as a spare. I see little point in fitting
it at this time, whilst the original switch continues to give normal
service.

I'm not sure that I understand why anyone would have a problem with cleaning
a set of contacts such as these. I have done it all my (long) working life
on everything from high power contactors to medium power switches and relays
, and it has never caused any problem. Obviously, it's not something that
can be done to restore switches with plated contacts, but that is not what
is generally employed in these types of power switching applications.

Arfa