I'm sure there must be plenty more who use these.
Heavy glass lens, circular fluorescent lamp etc on 2 off 18 inch long sets
of arms with springs. However much you tighten up the central clamp the top
arm sags down in use, especially when you rotate the whole lamp or the angle
of the head.
Place a dense rubber tap washer under the nut of this clamp. Changing the
angle of the arms is then stiffer but I prefer that, to sagging in use.
Anyone else have any other ideas that retain full functionality.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

N_Cook wrote:
I'm sure there must be plenty more who use these.
Heavy glass lens, circular fluorescent lamp etc on 2 off 18 inch long sets
of arms with springs. However much you tighten up the central clamp the top
arm sags down in use, especially when you rotate the whole lamp or the angle
of the head.
Place a dense rubber tap washer under the nut of this clamp. Changing the
angle of the arms is then stiffer but I prefer that, to sagging in use.
Anyone else have any other ideas that retain full functionality.


Replace or shorten the springs, or do what I did as a temporary measure
(years ago and it's still there) stick a pen bewteen the two top springs
and the top of the upper arm!

Ron

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...

I'm sure there must be plenty more who use these.
Heavy glass lens, circular fluorescent lamp etc on 2 off 18 inch long sets
of arms with springs. However much you tighten up the central clamp the
top
arm sags down in use, especially when you rotate the whole lamp or the
angle
of the head.
Place a dense rubber tap washer under the nut of this clamp. Changing the
angle of the arms is then stiffer but I prefer that, to sagging in use.
Anyone else have any other ideas that retain full functionality.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/


I have two genuine Terry's Anglepoise lamps, both of which go back many
years. Both of them suffer as you describe occasionally, but I have always
found that re-tightening the Nyloc nuts at the joints, cures mine for
another year or so. I wonder if that's because the 'head' on the lamp weighs
a lot less than on the magnifier version ? Do radio studios suffer a similar
problem ? They seem to use exactly the same arm mechanism for presenters'
mics, and I would guess that some of them with spring mounts and baffles,
must be as heavy as the magnifier lamp heads.

Arfa

Ron wrote in message
news
N_Cook wrote:
I'm sure there must be plenty more who use these.
Heavy glass lens, circular fluorescent lamp etc on 2 off 18 inch long
sets
of arms with springs. However much you tighten up the central clamp the
top
arm sags down in use, especially when you rotate the whole lamp or the
angle
of the head.
Place a dense rubber tap washer under the nut of this clamp. Changing
the
angle of the arms is then stiffer but I prefer that, to sagging in use.
Anyone else have any other ideas that retain full functionality.


Replace or shorten the springs, or do what I did as a temporary measure
(years ago and it's still there) stick a pen bewteen the two top springs
and the top of the upper arm!

Ron

That seems to work. In effect stretching the springs a bit. I chopped off a
bit of 12 mm hard/high temp hotmelt glue stick and cable-tied in place, a
tie around a loop of each spring. Pen barrel was not big enough

Incidently for the usual "domestic" source of hotmelt glue sticks , usually
no temp indication.
Low melt ones , start melting at 90 degree c, translucent
or dyestuff coloured ones that easily double over in the length of
195mm requiring a force of about 1Kg (on set of scales).
High temperature ones tend to be naturally creamy colour ,
melting at 150 degree C, and much stiffer to bend, about
2.5Kg over 195mm length.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

Arfa Daily wrote in message
...

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...

I'm sure there must be plenty more who use these.
Heavy glass lens, circular fluorescent lamp etc on 2 off 18 inch long
sets
of arms with springs. However much you tighten up the central clamp the
top
arm sags down in use, especially when you rotate the whole lamp or the
angle
of the head.
Place a dense rubber tap washer under the nut of this clamp. Changing
the
angle of the arms is then stiffer but I prefer that, to sagging in use.
Anyone else have any other ideas that retain full functionality.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/


I have two genuine Terry's Anglepoise lamps, both of which go back many
years. Both of them suffer as you describe occasionally, but I have always
found that re-tightening the Nyloc nuts at the joints, cures mine for
another year or so. I wonder if that's because the 'head' on the lamp
weighs
a lot less than on the magnifier version ? Do radio studios suffer a
similar
problem ? They seem to use exactly the same arm mechanism for presenters'
mics, and I would guess that some of them with spring mounts and baffles,
must be as heavy as the magnifier lamp heads.

Arfa



Surely audio studios have the springs in either Anglepoise, far reach
suspension, or microphone , local suspension, replaced with bungee which is
naturally damping. The last thing you need attached to a microphone is a
twangy resonant springline. Going by the racket that comes off my Anglepoise
in normal use.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

N_Cook wrote:
Arfa Daily wrote in message
...
"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
I'm sure there must be plenty more who use these.
Heavy glass lens, circular fluorescent lamp etc on 2 off 18 inch long
sets
of arms with springs. However much you tighten up the central clamp the
top
arm sags down in use, especially when you rotate the whole lamp or the
angle
of the head.
Place a dense rubber tap washer under the nut of this clamp. Changing
the
angle of the arms is then stiffer but I prefer that, to sagging in use.
Anyone else have any other ideas that retain full functionality.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

I have two genuine Terry's Anglepoise lamps, both of which go back many
years. Both of them suffer as you describe occasionally, but I have always
found that re-tightening the Nyloc nuts at the joints, cures mine for
another year or so. I wonder if that's because the 'head' on the lamp
weighs
a lot less than on the magnifier version ? Do radio studios suffer a
similar
problem ? They seem to use exactly the same arm mechanism for presenters'
mics, and I would guess that some of them with spring mounts and baffles,
must be as heavy as the magnifier lamp heads.

Arfa



Surely audio studios have the springs in either Anglepoise, far reach
suspension, or microphone , local suspension, replaced with bungee which is
naturally damping. The last thing you need attached to a microphone is a
twangy resonant springline. Going by the racket that comes off my Anglepoise
in normal use.


The microphone sits inside a cradle suspended by thin elestic bungees

All that agro over the years, just for the want of 1.5 inches of hotmelt
glue stick, 2 cable ties and a tap washer. It now lives up to the name
anglepoise.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

In article ,
N_Cook wrote:
I'm sure there must be plenty more who use these. Heavy glass lens,
circular fluorescent lamp etc on 2 off 18 inch long sets of arms with
springs. However much you tighten up the central clamp the top arm sags
down in use, especially when you rotate the whole lamp or the angle of
the head. Place a dense rubber tap washer under the nut of this clamp.
Changing the angle of the arms is then stiffer but I prefer that, to
sagging in use. Anyone else have any other ideas that retain full
functionality.

Tie some elastic through and round the springs. With care you can tune
this so the thing stays in position. Been doing this for years with
anglepoise mic stands.

--
*We waste time, so you don't have to *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Arfa Daily wrote:


"N_Cook" wrote in message
...

I'm sure there must be plenty more who use these.
Heavy glass lens, circular fluorescent lamp etc on 2 off 18 inch long
sets of arms with springs. However much you tighten up the central
clamp the top
arm sags down in use, especially when you rotate the whole lamp or
the angle
of the head.
Place a dense rubber tap washer under the nut of this clamp. Changing
the angle of the arms is then stiffer but I prefer that, to sagging
in use. Anyone else have any other ideas that retain full
functionality.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/


I have two genuine Terry's Anglepoise lamps, both of which go back
many years. Both of them suffer as you describe occasionally, but I
have always found that re-tightening the Nyloc nuts at the joints,
cures mine for another year or so. I wonder if that's because the
'head' on the lamp weighs a lot less than on the magnifier version ?
Do radio studios suffer a similar problem ? They seem to use exactly
the same arm mechanism for presenters' mics, and I would guess that
some of them with spring mounts and baffles, must be as heavy as the
magnifier lamp heads.

Arfa

Thats all I do with mine, Just tighten the nuts at the joints ! The
same with the Ledu magnifier lamp. I have noticed that over the years
the metal has started to erode at the joints.

I did a repair for a friend who's lamp broke at one of the joints, by
inserting a short length of solid bar inside the square tube. I glued
it in place with super glue after drilling the through hole.

You have to get the nuts tightened just right or it won't adjust at all.
I ended up putting fiber washers between the faces so that it would
move and stay put.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.