I went to use a Smart-UPS 700 (true sine wave) after letting it sit for
a couple of years, and nothing happened -- plugging it in yielded no
LEDs, sounds, etc. Pressing the power on, off, circuit breaker, and
reset did nothing. The two 120V receptacles (wall plugs) I tried are good.

I disassembled the unit, and found conductivity through the power wires,
the circuit breaker, and leads to the mainboard. The two 30A 32V fuses
to the batteries are fine, but, as expected the batteries are totally
dead after sitting for a couple of years.

I didn't see any obvious damage to the UPS at all -- no hot parts or
connections. There was continuity, separately, through the two
transformer windings. I jiggled all the connectors and reassembled the
unit, and there was no change, even after leaving it plugged in for a
half-hour.

What else could cause absolutely no response from this UPS? Anyone else
had this experience with an APC UPS, and did you overcome it? Seems
like too nice hardware to just trash (after recycling the batteries).

Thanks in advance.

-Brian

Brian wrote:
I went to use a Smart-UPS 700 (true sine wave) after letting it sit for
a couple of years, and nothing happened -- plugging it in yielded no
LEDs, sounds, etc. Pressing the power on, off, circuit breaker, and
reset did nothing. The two 120V receptacles (wall plugs) I tried are good.

I disassembled the unit, and found conductivity through the power wires,
the circuit breaker, and leads to the mainboard. The two 30A 32V fuses
to the batteries are fine, but, as expected the batteries are totally
dead after sitting for a couple of years.

I didn't see any obvious damage to the UPS at all -- no hot parts or
connections. There was continuity, separately, through the two
transformer windings. I jiggled all the connectors and reassembled the
unit, and there was no change, even after leaving it plugged in for a
half-hour.

What else could cause absolutely no response from this UPS? Anyone else
had this experience with an APC UPS, and did you overcome it? Seems
like too nice hardware to just trash (after recycling the batteries).

Thanks in advance.

-Brian


The battery is dead. For whatever reason, this causes a lot of UPS's to
behave exactly as described. If it sat for several years, the battery
will not take a charge, it needs to be replaced.

James Sweet wrote in
news:fk6Vj.243$lQ1.229@trnddc02:


Brian wrote:
I went to use a Smart-UPS 700 (true sine wave) after letting it sit
for a couple of years, and nothing happened -- plugging it in yielded
no LEDs, sounds, etc. Pressing the power on, off, circuit breaker,
and reset did nothing. The two 120V receptacles (wall plugs) I tried
are good.

I disassembled the unit, and found conductivity through the power
wires, the circuit breaker, and leads to the mainboard. The two 30A
32V fuses to the batteries are fine, but, as expected the batteries
are totally dead after sitting for a couple of years.

I didn't see any obvious damage to the UPS at all -- no hot parts or
connections. There was continuity, separately, through the two
transformer windings. I jiggled all the connectors and reassembled
the unit, and there was no change, even after leaving it plugged in
for a half-hour.

What else could cause absolutely no response from this UPS? Anyone
else had this experience with an APC UPS, and did you overcome it?
Seems like too nice hardware to just trash (after recycling the
batteries).

Thanks in advance.

-Brian


The battery is dead. For whatever reason, this causes a lot of UPS's
to behave exactly as described. If it sat for several years, the
battery will not take a charge, it needs to be replaced.


Lead-acid batteries sulfate and then will not take a charge.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Try BatteryPlex for replacements. The guy who runs it answers the phone, and
will make sure you get what you need. Highly recommended.

James Sweet wrote:


The battery is dead. For whatever reason, this causes a lot of UPS's to
behave exactly as described. If it sat for several years, the battery
will not take a charge, it needs to be replaced.

Thanks for the responses.

Really? Absolutely nothing -- no attempts at all to recharge, not even
flicker of the lights or a hum of the transformer? Dead as a
doornail ...

-Brian

Brian wrote:

James Sweet wrote:


The battery is dead. For whatever reason, this causes a lot of UPS's
to behave exactly as described. If it sat for several years, the
battery will not take a charge, it needs to be replaced.

Thanks for the responses.

Really? Absolutely nothing -- no attempts at all to recharge, not
even
flicker of the lights or a hum of the transformer? Dead as a
doornail ...

-Brian

Yep ! Thats exactly what my APC750 did after being stored for six
months. New batteries and away it went.

In fact its just started to beep again after about three years.
I thought the power had failed, not realising that it does a battery
test every 14 or 15 days. Its an early warning of battery failure.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

Brian wrote in
:

James Sweet wrote:


The battery is dead. For whatever reason, this causes a lot of UPS's to
behave exactly as described. If it sat for several years, the battery
will not take a charge, it needs to be replaced.

Thanks for the responses.

Really? Absolutely nothing -- no attempts at all to recharge, not even
flicker of the lights or a hum of the transformer? Dead as a
doornail ...

-Brian



when a LeadAcid battery's plates are sulfated,the battery will not accept a
charge. It's like they have been insulated from the electrolyte.
there's a lot on the 'Net about sulfation,just Google it.

FWIW,Wal-Mart will accept the old batteries for recycling. see the auto
department.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sat, 10 May 2008 07:42:57 -0500, Brian wrote:

James Sweet wrote:


The battery is dead. For whatever reason, this causes a lot of UPS's
to behave exactly as described. If it sat for several years, the
battery will not take a charge, it needs to be replaced.

Thanks for the responses.

Really? Absolutely nothing -- no attempts at all to recharge, not
even
flicker of the lights or a hum of the transformer? Dead as a
doornail ...


You might try to charge the batteries with a conventional charger or
variable power supply for an hour or so at a low current then replace
them in the unit.

Its unlikely that it will work. Â*The UPS does a self test upon switch on
which involves a load test on the battery. Â*If the battery cannot pass
this test the UPS just shuts down again. Â*Also they are sealed gell
types. Â*Although I must admit that I have in the past cracked off the
plastic bung and added water to try and recover them ! Â*Without success
I might add.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

Meat Plow wrote:
On Sat, 10 May 2008 07:42:57 -0500, Brian wrote:

You might try to charge the batteries with a conventional charger or
variable power supply for an hour or so at a low current then replace them
in the unit.

Thanks, I'll give it a try! I have a one-amp 12V trickle charger that I
use for cars. Will let y'all know what happens, on Tuesday or so.

Otherwise, I see cheapee replacement batteries on eBay, ~$40 delivered
for the needed two batteries.

-Brian

Brian wrote:
Meat Plow wrote:
On Sat, 10 May 2008 07:42:57 -0500, Brian wrote:

You might try to charge the batteries with a conventional charger or
variable power supply for an hour or so at a low current then replace
them
in the unit.

Thanks, I'll give it a try! I have a one-amp 12V trickle charger that I
use for cars. Will let y'all know what happens, on Tuesday or so.

Otherwise, I see cheapee replacement batteries on eBay, ~$40 delivered
for the needed two batteries.

-Brian


Beware cheap Chinese knockoff batteries, they've been known to fail
quickly and/or leak.

James Sweet wrote:


Beware cheap Chinese knockoff batteries, they've been known to fail
quickly and/or leak.

I've had good luck with their products in recent years, including this
newer laptop (at one-third the price of a bare-bones 486 motherboard I
bought 17 years ago). But yes, buyer-beware still is a valid philosophy.

-Brian

On May 10, 7:25*pm, Brian
wrote:
Thanks, I'll give it a try! *I have a one-amp 12V trickle charger that I
use for cars. *Will let y'all know what happens, on Tuesday or so.

Gell cells have a bad habit of completely failing if left
discharged.

Your question is this. Did the gell cell or charger fail? Use the
multimeter. When UPS is plugged in, that battery voltage should
increase slightly immediately. If yes, then the charger is working
and battery has failed. Battery voltage will rise. Battery voltage
may even rise to appropriate value. But then the UPS AC power cord is
disconnected, a defective battery will drop to near zero volts almost
immediately. This will provide the fasters and most comprehensive
answer since other suggestions cannot determine if UPS charger is
functional.

There is a good chance that charging the batteries externally
won't do a thing but then you've not lost anything just giving it
a try.

I don't know if lead-acid gel cells are susceptible to sulfation
as are liquid-filled cells but that is a usual cause of failure from
liquid batteries being stored without a charge being maintained.

I don't want to discourage the OP from trying to recharge the battery -- be
sure to cover them with something thick and heavy, in case they rupture or
explode (I'm not trying to be funny) -- but when I recently pulled out a
Coleman fluorescent lantern powered by an E640 gel battery, I found it dead.
The several-years' lack of charging had allowed the battery to die.
Lead-acid batteries are fragile beasts.

Brian wrote:
Meat Plow wrote:
On Sat, 10 May 2008 07:42:57 -0500, Brian wrote:

You might try to charge the batteries with a conventional charger or
variable power supply for an hour or so at a low current then replace them
in the unit.

Thanks, I'll give it a try! I have a one-amp 12V trickle charger that I
use for cars. Will let y'all know what happens, on Tuesday or so.

I would advise against it with a SmartUPS 700. Did that when the cat stood
on a power strip and discharged the batteries; they wouldn't charge in the
unit and I charged them with a Schumacher outside. A few days later we had
the gas company out with detectors when our First Alert gave gas alarms
and traced the problem to hydrogen outgassing from the UPS,

I've read bad things about the 700 on the web. Mine is out of service and
destined for destruction.

--
Barack Obama, May 9: "I've now been in 57 states? I think one left to go."

"Meat Plow" wrote in message
...

I don't want the OP to blow himself up either but a small current
applied long enough to boost the voltage up to where the APC will
charge them is fairly innocuous. The Smart UPS 700 was a very
popular small server backup solution several years ago and I have
experimented with them and their batteries without causing death
or dismemberment. And I would tend to disagree with you regarding
the fragility of lead-acid batteries in general. They are exposed to
some pretty harsh environmental conditions every day in automotive
and industrial use.

They're about the most-fragile battery I know of, and this is an excellent
example.

What other kind of rechargeable battery can be destroyed by running it all
the way down -- just ONCE? This happened to me about 15 years ago with a
lead-acid battery pack for a Sony Discman. I carelessly let it completely
discharge -- and it was gone. I was out $30.

This is not true of nicads or NiMH cells. I don't know whether it's true of
lithium-ion or lithium-polymer cells, about which there's a lot of myth.

On May 11, 11:56*am, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:
I don't want to discourage the OP from trying to recharge the battery -- be
sure to cover them with something thick and heavy, in case they rupture or
explode (I'm not trying to be funny)

No reason to remove or disconnect those batteries. Simply connect a
VDC multimeter to battery terminals. If voltage rises when UPS is
connected to AC, then UPS charger is working. Same charger test
performed without removing anything also tests other UPS hardware.
Procedure tests both items simultaneously. Learn more, faster, by
also doing less labor. Use a meter.

On May 11, 3:17*pm, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:
What other kind of rechargeable battery can be destroyed by running it all
the way down -- just ONCE?

Battteries are cells in series. If the battery pack discharges too
deeply, then current output by most cells can reverse charge the
weakest cell. Sometimes this can result in a short inside that one
cell. The entire battery is bad because too much discharging has
reverse charged and destroyed one cell. Its rare. But is does
happen.

"w_tom" wrote in message
...
On May 11, 3:17 pm, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:

What other kind of rechargeable battery can be destroyed by running it all
the way down -- just ONCE?

Battteries are cells in series. If the battery pack discharges too
deeply, then current output by most cells can reverse charge the
weakest cell. Sometimes this can result in a short inside that one
cell. The entire battery is bad because too much discharging has
reverse charged and destroyed one cell. Its rare. But is does
happen.

That isn't the issue here. It's the fact that lead-acid cells can be
destroyed by a single full discharge.

By the way, I've seen primary alkaline and lithium cells reverse-charged.

On May 11, 8:11*pm, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:
That isn't the issue here. It's the fact that lead-acid cells can be
destroyed by a single full discharge.

By the way, I've seen primary alkaline and lithium cells reverse-charged.

The point is that any battery can be harmed by over discharging.

Characteristic of gel cells is that a full discharge left for months
means permanent damage. However the OP still must determine if
battery has simply failed OR UPS charger circuit is defective. Only
then will the first solution be definitive. Makes no sense to buy a
new battery only to discover that battery is dead because a UPS
charging circuit is defective.

William Sommerwerck wrote:
There is a good chance that charging the batteries externally
won't do a thing but then you've not lost anything just giving it
a try.

I don't know if lead-acid gel cells are susceptible to sulfation
as are liquid-filled cells but that is a usual cause of failure from
liquid batteries being stored without a charge being maintained.

I don't want to discourage the OP from trying to recharge the battery -- be
sure to cover them with something thick and heavy, in case they rupture or
explode (I'm not trying to be funny) -- but when I recently pulled out a
Coleman fluorescent lantern powered by an E640 gel battery, I found it dead.
The several-years' lack of charging had allowed the battery to die.
Lead-acid batteries are fragile beasts.




I've never heard of one exploding, I have had them bulge though. Gel
cells are certainly prone to sulfation.

I don't want the OP to blow himself up either but a small current applied
long enough to boost the voltage up to where the APC will charge them is
fairly innocuous. The Smart UPS 700 was a very popular small server backup
solution several years ago and I have experimented with them and their
batteries without causing death or dismemberment. And I would tend to
disagree with you regarding the fragility of lead-acid batteries in
general. They are exposed to some pretty harsh environmental conditions
every day in automotive and industrial use.




They can hold up to a tremendous amount of abuse, but deep discharging
will kill them just about every time.

"w_tom" wrote in message
...
On May 11, 8:11 pm, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:

That isn't the issue here. It's the fact that lead-acid cells can be
destroyed by a single full discharge.

The point is that any battery can be harmed by over discharging.

No, the point is that lead-acid cells are especially susceptible to being
damaged. I've never had this happen with a nickel-cadmium battery.

On May 12, 7:14*am, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:
No, the point is that lead-acid cells are especially susceptible to being
damaged. I've never had this happen with a nickel-cadmium battery.

The point: identify the reason for a failed battery (defective
battery or defective charger circuit) before replacing that battery.
The point is to answer the OPs question with a useful diagnostic
procedure.

Secondary is a claim that only gel cells get destroyed by
discharging. Any battery can be damaged by excessive discharging.
Which is not relevant to the OP's problem since he apparently has a
dead battery. Primary point is why. A question that is answered in
seconds before buying expensive replacement parts. Makes no sense
replacing a battery if the charger circuit was defective (created a
dead battery). A question that can be answered in seconds.

James Sweet wrote:


They can hold up to a tremendous amount of abuse, but deep discharging
will kill them just about every time.

And the result is ...

They wouldn't even start to take a charge. My trickle charge reported
both were fully charged, even though they were totally dead. Even a
couple of hours on each wouldn't make them budge.

So, time for some new batteries. The originals were made in China.
Will hopefully remember to post whether the new batteries fixed the unit.

-Brian

P.S. There are four small-matchbox size black boxes on the unit's PCB.
I think they are relays. My guess would be that the batteries must
have some juice to keep one of these relays closed -- and that relay
admits line voltage to the entire device. Would explain the total
non-response from the UPS when plugged in with dead batteries.

Brian wrote:
James Sweet wrote:


They can hold up to a tremendous amount of abuse, but deep discharging
will kill them just about every time.

And the result is ...

They wouldn't even start to take a charge. My trickle charge reported
both were fully charged, even though they were totally dead. Even a
couple of hours on each wouldn't make them budge.

So, time for some new batteries. The originals were made in China. Will
hopefully remember to post whether the new batteries fixed the unit.

-Brian

P.S. There are four small-matchbox size black boxes on the unit's PCB.
I think they are relays. My guess would be that the batteries must
have some juice to keep one of these relays closed -- and that relay
admits line voltage to the entire device. Would explain the total
non-response from the UPS when plugged in with dead batteries.


You can hook up just about any lead-acid battery of the correct voltage
for testing, should be fine to jumper it to your car battery to see if
it powers up, mind the polarity though.

"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:cwqVj.114$ll1.71@trndny06...

Brian wrote:
Meat Plow wrote:
On Sat, 10 May 2008 07:42:57 -0500, Brian wrote:

You might try to charge the batteries with a conventional charger or
variable power supply for an hour or so at a low current then replace
them
in the unit.

Thanks, I'll give it a try! I have a one-amp 12V trickle charger that I
use for cars. Will let y'all know what happens, on Tuesday or so.

Otherwise, I see cheapee replacement batteries on eBay, ~$40 delivered
for the needed two batteries.

-Brian


Beware cheap Chinese knockoff batteries, they've been known to fail
quickly and/or leak.

I put a pair of 'cheap' batteries in my APC 700 when the originals failed.
They lasted all of a few months before it kept falling over again when it
performed its auto self test every couple of weeks. Kept doing it in the
middle of the night so we thought it was a smoke alarm going off. A new pair
of 'proper' priced ones restored it. Also, be very careful that you get
replacements with the right sized spades. Before fitting the cheapies, I had
already tried a pair of batteries with similar size and capacity, but small
tags. These were in good condition and still give good heavy duty service
now in another application. However, with the large connectors in the APC
700, pushed onto the small tags on the batteries, there was just not enough
contact area, and it fell over every time at powerup, when it does its load
test, and checks for battery terminal voltage drop.

Arfa

"w_tom" wrote in message
...
On May 11, 11:56 am, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:
I don't want to discourage the OP from trying to recharge the battery --
be
sure to cover them with something thick and heavy, in case they rupture or
explode (I'm not trying to be funny)

No reason to remove or disconnect those batteries. Simply connect a
VDC multimeter to battery terminals. If voltage rises when UPS is
connected to AC, then UPS charger is working. Same charger test
performed without removing anything also tests other UPS hardware.
Procedure tests both items simultaneously. Learn more, faster, by
also doing less labor. Use a meter.

But it's just been explained that one of the relays is in series with the AC
input line, and doesn't close unless there is at least some residual charge
on the batteries. Therefore, it would seem that there is every need to
disconnect and at least sub those batteries, before being able to carry out
any kind of charging test. I would further suggest that a simple charge
voltage test, may not give an accurate picture of what is actually happening
in the charging circuit. Even a charge current test, although a better
indication, may not be sufficient, unless you know what the charge limit
current should be, either for all or specific battery discharge conditions.
FWIW, I can also confirm that an APC 700 model will not even try to start up
without a partially charged battery fitted.

Arfa

"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:fa5Wj.181$Pr1.149@trndny03...

Brian wrote:
James Sweet wrote:


They can hold up to a tremendous amount of abuse, but deep discharging
will kill them just about every time.

And the result is ...

They wouldn't even start to take a charge. My trickle charge reported
both were fully charged, even though they were totally dead. Even a
couple of hours on each wouldn't make them budge.

So, time for some new batteries. The originals were made in China. Will
hopefully remember to post whether the new batteries fixed the unit.

-Brian

P.S. There are four small-matchbox size black boxes on the unit's PCB. I
think they are relays. My guess would be that the batteries must have
some juice to keep one of these relays closed -- and that relay admits
line voltage to the entire device. Would explain the total non-response
from the UPS when plugged in with dead batteries.


You can hook up just about any lead-acid battery of the correct voltage
for testing, should be fine to jumper it to your car battery to see if it
powers up, mind the polarity though.

I used two car batteris to power my UPS during a hurricane here a few years
ago.

Note: Some SmartUPS units require 24 volts.. i.e. 2 12v batteries in series
to run.

Mike

Michael Kennedy wrote:

Note: Some SmartUPS units require 24 volts.. i.e. 2 12v batteries in series
to run.

Yes, this unit has two 12V batteries. New ones are on order! Shipping
is more than the batteries themselves ... they are heavy.

-Brian

Brian wrote:
Michael Kennedy wrote:

Note: Some SmartUPS units require 24 volts.. i.e. 2 12v batteries in
series to run.

Yes, this unit has two 12V batteries. New ones are on order! Shipping
is more than the batteries themselves ... they are heavy.

-Brian


Did you check locally? Many places carry a selection, Frys had a whole
shelf of them, I don't recall what the prices were like though.

Batteries Plus with many retail locations sell them for a fair price as
well.

Bob

"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:fLtWj.1516$i51.747@trndny09...

Brian wrote:
Michael Kennedy wrote:

Note: Some SmartUPS units require 24 volts.. i.e. 2 12v batteries in
series to run.

Yes, this unit has two 12V batteries. New ones are on order! Shipping
is more than the batteries themselves ... they are heavy.

-Brian


Did you check locally? Many places carry a selection, Frys had a whole
shelf of them, I don't recall what the prices were like though.

Try BatteryPlex.com.

James Sweet wrote:
Did you check locally? Many places carry a selection, Frys had a whole
shelf of them, I don't recall what the prices were like though.

I buy through local alarm companies. Call two or three and at least one will
sell over the counter.

--
Barack Obama, May 9: "I've now been in 57 states? I think one left to go."

clifto wrote:

I buy through local alarm companies. Call two or three and at least one will
sell over the counter.


Just got 'em (via eBay) -- "Rhino" brand; about US$16 each, including
shipping. Look good, and hopefully will work well! Best retail price I
saw, plus shipping, was about $32 each.

-Brian

Brian wrote:
clifto wrote:
I buy through local alarm companies. Call two or three and at least one will
sell over the counter.

Just got 'em (via eBay) -- "Rhino" brand; about US$16 each, including
shipping. Look good, and hopefully will work well! Best retail price I
saw, plus shipping, was about $32 each.

I'll check next time. My last set was local and in between those prices.

--
Barack Obama, May 9: "I've now been in 57 states? I think one left to go."

clifto wrote:
Brian wrote:
clifto wrote:
I buy through local alarm companies. Call two or three and at least one will
sell over the counter.
Just got 'em (via eBay) -- "Rhino" brand; about US$16 each, including
shipping. Look good, and hopefully will work well! Best retail price I
saw, plus shipping, was about $32 each.

I'll check next time. My last set was local and in between those prices.


Good! There's only one batteries-only dealer here in town, and it is
about a 15 mile round trip. So add ~$3 for gas ...

Installed the new batteries yesterday. As warned, the lugs were
smaller, so I had to crimp-down one connector slightly to get a tighter fit.

Also, the last connection was shocking! Actually sparking -- one huge
bolt, and I'm glad I wasn't in its way. There's a good-sized capacitor
internally to the UPS, and my guess is that the batteries needed to
recharge it upon connection.

The UPS then worked normally! So yes, as the early responders answered,
it was simply dead batteries. Will recycle the old ones, and keep the
UPS plugged-in continuously so that hopefully these new batteries will
last a long time.

-Brian

In article , Brian wrote:
clifto wrote:
Brian wrote:
clifto wrote:
I buy through local alarm companies. Call two or three and at least one
will
sell over the counter.
Just got 'em (via eBay) -- "Rhino" brand; about US$16 each, including
shipping. Look good, and hopefully will work well! Best retail price I
saw, plus shipping, was about $32 each.

I'll check next time. My last set was local and in between those prices.


Good! There's only one batteries-only dealer here in town, and it is
about a 15 mile round trip. So add ~$3 for gas ...

Installed the new batteries yesterday. As warned, the lugs were
smaller, so I had to crimp-down one connector slightly to get a tighter fit.

Also, the last connection was shocking! Actually sparking -- one huge
bolt, and I'm glad I wasn't in its way. There's a good-sized capacitor
internally to the UPS, and my guess is that the batteries needed to
recharge it upon connection.

The UPS then worked normally! So yes, as the early responders answered,
it was simply dead batteries. Will recycle the old ones, and keep the
UPS plugged-in continuously so that hopefully these new batteries will
last a long time.

I just replaced the batteries in a non responding SMART UPS. What a stupid UPS.
The batteies were for a 1500 watt unit, heavy.

greg

"GregS" wrote in message
...
In article , Brian
wrote:
clifto wrote:
Brian wrote:
clifto wrote:
I buy through local alarm companies. Call two or three and at least
one
will
sell over the counter.
Just got 'em (via eBay) -- "Rhino" brand; about US$16 each, including
shipping. Look good, and hopefully will work well! Best retail price
I
saw, plus shipping, was about $32 each.

I'll check next time. My last set was local and in between those prices.


Good! There's only one batteries-only dealer here in town, and it is
about a 15 mile round trip. So add ~$3 for gas ...

Installed the new batteries yesterday. As warned, the lugs were
smaller, so I had to crimp-down one connector slightly to get a tighter
fit.

Also, the last connection was shocking! Actually sparking -- one huge
bolt, and I'm glad I wasn't in its way. There's a good-sized capacitor
internally to the UPS, and my guess is that the batteries needed to
recharge it upon connection.

The UPS then worked normally! So yes, as the early responders answered,
it was simply dead batteries. Will recycle the old ones, and keep the
UPS plugged-in continuously so that hopefully these new batteries will
last a long time.

I just replaced the batteries in a non responding SMART UPS. What a stupid
UPS.
The batteies were for a 1500 watt unit, heavy.

greg

I don't think I'm quite following that ...

Arfa

In article , "Arfa Daily" wrote:

"GregS" wrote in message
...
In article , Brian
wrote:
clifto wrote:
Brian wrote:
clifto wrote:
I buy through local alarm companies. Call two or three and at least
one
will
sell over the counter.
Just got 'em (via eBay) -- "Rhino" brand; about US$16 each, including
shipping. Look good, and hopefully will work well! Best retail price
I
saw, plus shipping, was about $32 each.

I'll check next time. My last set was local and in between those prices.


Good! There's only one batteries-only dealer here in town, and it is
about a 15 mile round trip. So add ~$3 for gas ...

Installed the new batteries yesterday. As warned, the lugs were
smaller, so I had to crimp-down one connector slightly to get a tighter
fit.

Also, the last connection was shocking! Actually sparking -- one huge
bolt, and I'm glad I wasn't in its way. There's a good-sized capacitor
internally to the UPS, and my guess is that the batteries needed to
recharge it upon connection.

The UPS then worked normally! So yes, as the early responders answered,
it was simply dead batteries. Will recycle the old ones, and keep the
UPS plugged-in continuously so that hopefully these new batteries will
last a long time.

I just replaced the batteries in a non responding SMART UPS. What a stupid
UPS.
The batteies were for a 1500 watt unit, heavy.

greg

I don't think I'm quite following that ...

What, that a smart ups can't say the battery is ka putt.

greg

Brian wrote:
The UPS then worked normally! So yes, as the early responders answered,
it was simply dead batteries. Will recycle the old ones, and keep the
UPS plugged-in continuously so that hopefully these new batteries will
last a long time.

Keep an eye on that thing. DO google the SmartUPS 700 for experience stories.
If the batteries ever significantly discharge (i.e. more than a few minutes
off mains), I highly recommend you put new ones in rather than trust the
used ones, based on my experience. Mine is off line and scheduled for
destruction and recycling.

--
And no, no one can have it. You'd sue me when it goes bad again.