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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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Friction in Stanton STR8-30 Turntable
Hi,
I have a Stanton STR8-30 direct drive turntable that has recently started making a scraping noise. This noise is mechanical - you can hear it when the turntable is off and it does not come through the speakers when playing a record. There is clearly a particular place during the rotation where this friction is occurring. Unfortunately, Stanton does not have any authorized repair shops outside their own factory - is there any way to repair this myself rather than paying $65/hour for labor plus parts and shipping? Any advice would be much appreciated. Phil |
#2
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Friction in Stanton STR8-30 Turntable
wrote in message ups.com... Hi, I have a Stanton STR8-30 direct drive turntable that has recently started making a scraping noise. This noise is mechanical - you can hear it when the turntable is off and it does not come through the speakers when playing a record. There is clearly a particular place during the rotation where this friction is occurring. Unfortunately, Stanton does not have any authorized repair shops outside their own factory - is there any way to repair this myself rather than paying $65/hour for labor plus parts and shipping? Any advice would be much appreciated. Phil You need to figure out where it is catching. If it is the underside of the platter catching on some part of the chassis or motor, then the centre bearing has sunk for some reason. I had a similar problem some time back, when a deck that I had in for repair ( can't remember what make ) had a ball bearing in the bottom of the bearing tube, that the bottom surface of the hardened shaft ran on. The lube had dried out, and the hard ball bearing had worn into the soft brass that the tube was made from. Relubing, and replacing the ball bearing with one of a larger diameter, cured the problem. Arfa |
#3
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Friction in Stanton STR8-30 Turntable
Thanks for the help. This is my first time trying to do any repairs on
a turntable, so I just want to make sure I'm clear on where I should be looking, and that I've got the terminology right... On this turntable, once I remove the platter, the top of the casing (the chassis?) is more or less entirely closed, except for a hole that the spindle comes through. So to access the bearing tube or see the motor, I have to unscrew and remove the casing. If this is correct, are there any precautionary steps I should take before opening it up? Thanks again. On Jan 9, 8:48 pm, "Arfa Daily" wrote: wrote in oglegroups.com... Hi, I have a Stanton STR8-30 direct drive turntable that has recently started making a scraping noise. This noise is mechanical - you can hear it when the turntable is off and it does not come through the speakers when playing a record. There is clearly a particular place during the rotation where this friction is occurring. Unfortunately, Stanton does not have any authorized repair shops outside their own factory - is there any way to repair this myself rather than paying $65/hour for labor plus parts and shipping? Any advice would be much appreciated. PhilYou need to figure out where it is catching. If it is the underside of the platter catching on some part of the chassis or motor, then the centre bearing has sunk for some reason. I had a similar problem some time back, when a deck that I had in for repair ( can't remember what make ) had a ball bearing in the bottom of the bearing tube, that the bottom surface of the hardened shaft ran on. The lube had dried out, and the hard ball bearing had worn into the soft brass that the tube was made from. Relubing, and replacing the ball bearing with one of a larger diameter, cured the problem. Arfa- Hide quoted text -- Show quoted text - |
#4
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Friction in Stanton STR8-30 Turntable
wrote in message oups.com... Thanks for the help. This is my first time trying to do any repairs on a turntable, so I just want to make sure I'm clear on where I should be looking, and that I've got the terminology right... On this turntable, once I remove the platter, the top of the casing (the chassis?) is more or less entirely closed, except for a hole that the spindle comes through. So to access the bearing tube or see the motor, I have to unscrew and remove the casing. If this is correct, are there any precautionary steps I should take before opening it up? Thanks again. There shouldn't be any particular issues that I can think of, other than just good servicing practice. Things such as noting the screw types. Often, screws will be of different types and lengths e.g. quick-threads for plastic, machine screws etc. Just note where they come from if there are any different types. Separate the case halves carefully, and if you do have to disturb any bits of mechanism, draw a picture before you do. An indelible felt tip is often handy for just putting a quick stroke across pieces of mechanism, just to remind you how they were when you started ... Use either old 35mm film pots, or egg cartons to store the screws etc. Have you got an idea yet of what is dragging ? |
#5
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Friction in Stanton STR8-30 Turntable
All I know at this point is that it's not the platter, since the sound
still occurs when I turn the spindle with the platter removed. I'll open the casing tonight and see what I can find. On Jan 10, 2:07 pm, "Arfa Daily" wrote: wrote in ooglegroups.com... Thanks for the help. This is my first time trying to do any repairs on a turntable, so I just want to make sure I'm clear on where I should be looking, and that I've got the terminology right... On this turntable, once I remove the platter, the top of the casing (the chassis?) is more or less entirely closed, except for a hole that the spindle comes through. So to access the bearing tube or see the motor, I have to unscrew and remove the casing. If this is correct, are there any precautionary steps I should take before opening it up? Thanks again.There shouldn't be any particular issues that I can think of, other than just good servicing practice. Things such as noting the screw types. Often, screws will be of different types and lengths e.g. quick-threads for plastic, machine screws etc. Just note where they come from if there are any different types. Separate the case halves carefully, and if you do have to disturb any bits of mechanism, draw a picture before you do. An indelible felt tip is often handy for just putting a quick stroke across pieces of mechanism, just to remind you how they were when you started ... Use either old 35mm film pots, or egg cartons to store the screws etc. Have you got an idea yet of what is dragging ? |
#6
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Friction in Stanton STR8-30 Turntable
ha escrito: All I know at this point is that it's not the platter, since the sound still occurs when I turn the spindle with the platter removed. I'll open the casing tonight and see what I can find. remember to remove the pickup cartridge and tape down the arm before turning the deck over!! New styli don't come cheap. put on a soft cloth or cushion if working with it upside down. -B. |
#7
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Friction in Stanton STR8-30 Turntable
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#9
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Friction in Stanton STR8-30 Turntable
wrote in message ups.com... Thanks for all the advice, folks. So - I did get it open (having removed the cartridge and locked the arm) and found that a very small washer-like item had cracked and the pieces were stuck to the magnetic disc that surrounds the spindle. These pieces were grating against other pieces of the mechanism. I removed these pieces, reassembled the turntable, and now it works with no problem. However, it's now of course missing a washer, and I suspect this is not ideal for the long term health of the turntable. This washer (when whole) was not a complete circle - rather, it was about 2/3 of a circle with three very small tabs inside the curve. Any ideas what this piece is or how unadvisable it is to continue using the turntable without it? Thanks. A 'washer' of this description is actually a form of circlip. Its purpose is to retain a shaft somewhere. Could be from the bottom of the tone arm lifter shaft or somewhere similar. Look for a shaft a little larger in diameter than the gap between the 'tabs', then check if it has a groove cut around it. That will be where the clip belongs. If you can't readily obtain one, you can achieve the same result, by wrapping a piece of stiff wire ( like a resistor leg ) with a larger diameter than the width of the groove, around the shaft, and in the groove. Arfa |
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