Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

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Default Friction in Stanton STR8-30 Turntable

Hi,

I have a Stanton STR8-30 direct drive turntable that has recently
started making a scraping noise. This noise is mechanical - you can
hear it when the turntable is off and it does not come through the
speakers when playing a record. There is clearly a particular place
during the rotation where this friction is occurring.

Unfortunately, Stanton does not have any authorized repair shops
outside their own factory - is there any way to repair this myself
rather than paying $65/hour for labor plus parts and shipping?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Phil

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Default Friction in Stanton STR8-30 Turntable


wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,

I have a Stanton STR8-30 direct drive turntable that has recently
started making a scraping noise. This noise is mechanical - you can
hear it when the turntable is off and it does not come through the
speakers when playing a record. There is clearly a particular place
during the rotation where this friction is occurring.

Unfortunately, Stanton does not have any authorized repair shops
outside their own factory - is there any way to repair this myself
rather than paying $65/hour for labor plus parts and shipping?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Phil

You need to figure out where it is catching. If it is the underside of the
platter catching on some part of the chassis or motor, then the centre
bearing has sunk for some reason. I had a similar problem some time back,
when a deck that I had in for repair ( can't remember what make ) had a ball
bearing in the bottom of the bearing tube, that the bottom surface of the
hardened shaft ran on. The lube had dried out, and the hard ball bearing had
worn into the soft brass that the tube was made from. Relubing, and
replacing the ball bearing with one of a larger diameter, cured the problem.

Arfa


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Default Friction in Stanton STR8-30 Turntable

Thanks for the help. This is my first time trying to do any repairs on
a turntable, so I just want to make sure I'm clear on where I should be
looking, and that I've got the terminology right...

On this turntable, once I remove the platter, the top of the casing
(the chassis?) is more or less entirely closed, except for a hole that
the spindle comes through. So to access the bearing tube or see the
motor, I have to unscrew and remove the casing. If this is correct,
are there any precautionary steps I should take before opening it up?

Thanks again.

On Jan 9, 8:48 pm, "Arfa Daily" wrote:
wrote in oglegroups.com...



Hi,


I have a Stanton STR8-30 direct drive turntable that has recently
started making a scraping noise. This noise is mechanical - you can
hear it when the turntable is off and it does not come through the
speakers when playing a record. There is clearly a particular place
during the rotation where this friction is occurring.


Unfortunately, Stanton does not have any authorized repair shops
outside their own factory - is there any way to repair this myself
rather than paying $65/hour for labor plus parts and shipping?


Any advice would be much appreciated.


PhilYou need to figure out where it is catching. If it is the underside of the

platter catching on some part of the chassis or motor, then the centre
bearing has sunk for some reason. I had a similar problem some time back,
when a deck that I had in for repair ( can't remember what make ) had a ball
bearing in the bottom of the bearing tube, that the bottom surface of the
hardened shaft ran on. The lube had dried out, and the hard ball bearing had
worn into the soft brass that the tube was made from. Relubing, and
replacing the ball bearing with one of a larger diameter, cured the problem.

Arfa- Hide quoted text -- Show quoted text -


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Default Friction in Stanton STR8-30 Turntable


wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks for the help. This is my first time trying to do any repairs on
a turntable, so I just want to make sure I'm clear on where I should be
looking, and that I've got the terminology right...

On this turntable, once I remove the platter, the top of the casing
(the chassis?) is more or less entirely closed, except for a hole that
the spindle comes through. So to access the bearing tube or see the
motor, I have to unscrew and remove the casing. If this is correct,
are there any precautionary steps I should take before opening it up?

Thanks again.

There shouldn't be any particular issues that I can think of, other than
just good servicing practice. Things such as noting the screw types. Often,
screws will be of different types and lengths e.g. quick-threads for
plastic, machine screws etc. Just note where they come from if there are any
different types. Separate the case halves carefully, and if you do have to
disturb any bits of mechanism, draw a picture before you do. An indelible
felt tip is often handy for just putting a quick stroke across pieces of
mechanism, just to remind you how they were when you started ... Use either
old 35mm film pots, or egg cartons to store the screws etc.

Have you got an idea yet of what is dragging ?


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Default Friction in Stanton STR8-30 Turntable

All I know at this point is that it's not the platter, since the sound
still occurs when I turn the spindle with the platter removed. I'll
open the casing tonight and see what I can find.

On Jan 10, 2:07 pm, "Arfa Daily" wrote:
wrote in ooglegroups.com... Thanks for the help. This is my first time trying to do any repairs on
a turntable, so I just want to make sure I'm clear on where I should be
looking, and that I've got the terminology right...


On this turntable, once I remove the platter, the top of the casing
(the chassis?) is more or less entirely closed, except for a hole that
the spindle comes through. So to access the bearing tube or see the
motor, I have to unscrew and remove the casing. If this is correct,
are there any precautionary steps I should take before opening it up?


Thanks again.There shouldn't be any particular issues that I can think of, other than

just good servicing practice. Things such as noting the screw types. Often,
screws will be of different types and lengths e.g. quick-threads for
plastic, machine screws etc. Just note where they come from if there are any
different types. Separate the case halves carefully, and if you do have to
disturb any bits of mechanism, draw a picture before you do. An indelible
felt tip is often handy for just putting a quick stroke across pieces of
mechanism, just to remind you how they were when you started ... Use either
old 35mm film pots, or egg cartons to store the screws etc.

Have you got an idea yet of what is dragging ?




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Default Friction in Stanton STR8-30 Turntable


ha escrito:

All I know at this point is that it's not the platter, since the sound
still occurs when I turn the spindle with the platter removed. I'll
open the casing tonight and see what I can find.


remember to remove the pickup cartridge and tape down the arm before
turning the deck over!! New styli don't come cheap.
put on a soft cloth or cushion if working with it upside down.
-B.

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Default Friction in Stanton STR8-30 Turntable

Thanks for all the advice, folks.

So - I did get it open (having removed the cartridge and locked the
arm) and found that a very small washer-like item had cracked and the
pieces were stuck to the magnetic disc that surrounds the spindle.
These pieces were grating against other pieces of the mechanism.

I removed these pieces, reassembled the turntable, and now it works
with no problem. However, it's now of course missing a washer, and I
suspect this is not ideal for the long term health of the turntable.

This washer (when whole) was not a complete circle - rather, it was
about 2/3 of a circle with three very small tabs inside the curve. Any
ideas what this piece is or how unadvisable it is to continue using the
turntable without it?

Thanks.


Rick wrote:
wrote:

Hi,

I have a Stanton STR8-30 direct drive turntable that has recently
started making a scraping noise. This noise is mechanical - you can
hear it when the turntable is off and it does not come through the
speakers when playing a record. There is clearly a particular place
during the rotation where this friction is occurring.

Unfortunately, Stanton does not have any authorized repair shops
outside their own factory - is there any way to repair this myself
rather than paying $65/hour for labor plus parts and shipping?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Phil


Does this turntable have any suspension or isolation using springs? When
you push on the platter itself does it move independent of the base? If
it does the chances are the suspension springs have simply weakened with
age and need to be replaced. The turntable itself may have dropped so
low it's scraping on the mounting base in one particular area.


Rick


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Default Friction in Stanton STR8-30 Turntable


wrote in message
ups.com...
Thanks for all the advice, folks.

So - I did get it open (having removed the cartridge and locked the
arm) and found that a very small washer-like item had cracked and the
pieces were stuck to the magnetic disc that surrounds the spindle.
These pieces were grating against other pieces of the mechanism.

I removed these pieces, reassembled the turntable, and now it works
with no problem. However, it's now of course missing a washer, and I
suspect this is not ideal for the long term health of the turntable.

This washer (when whole) was not a complete circle - rather, it was
about 2/3 of a circle with three very small tabs inside the curve. Any
ideas what this piece is or how unadvisable it is to continue using the
turntable without it?

Thanks.



A 'washer' of this description is actually a form of circlip. Its purpose is
to retain a shaft somewhere. Could be from the bottom of the tone arm lifter
shaft or somewhere similar. Look for a shaft a little larger in diameter
than the gap between the 'tabs', then check if it has a groove cut around
it. That will be where the clip belongs. If you can't readily obtain one,
you can achieve the same result, by wrapping a piece of stiff wire ( like a
resistor leg ) with a larger diameter than the width of the groove, around
the shaft, and in the groove.

Arfa


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