Good day all!

I have a RCA P60152CK rear projection unit that appears to have a
coolant leak in the green picture tube. I have removed the light box
from the unit and removed the green tube and lens assembly from the
light box. I know for sure it is leaking because the coolant that had
accumulated in the anode cap cover ended up in my lap. :|

Anyhow, I have a decent amount of experience working on video game
monitors, but this is my first foray in to projection TV repair. I have
done some reading of previous posts on coolant leaks, but I'm still not
100% certian of the procedure for repairing the leak. I have seen black
and copper RTV mentioned a few times, and I just want to make sure that
I know what I am doing before I take this unit apart. I am assuming
that to seal up the tube I have to remove the 4 bolts that hold the
metal frame and lens assembly to the face of the crt and separate the
crt and lens. Then I clean up the surface of the tube, lay a bead of
silicone around the outside of the lens and bolt the whole thing back
together. Sound about right?

It also looks like the only way I can get to the anode cap to clean and
reseal it is to pull the bolts and the metal frame off anyhow.

My major concerns are a: contaminating the coolant somehow and b:
putting everything back together and finding I have an air bubble in
the inside of the lens.

Can someone let me know if I am on the right path for this? Any tips or
tricks would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
James

Grauwulf wrote:
Good day all!

I have a RCA P60152CK rear projection unit that appears to have a
coolant leak in the green picture tube. I have removed the light box
from the unit and removed the green tube and lens assembly from the
light box. I know for sure it is leaking because the coolant that had
accumulated in the anode cap cover ended up in my lap. :|

Anyhow, I have a decent amount of experience working on video game
monitors, but this is my first foray in to projection TV repair. I have
done some reading of previous posts on coolant leaks, but I'm still not
100% certian of the procedure for repairing the leak. I have seen black
and copper RTV mentioned a few times, and I just want to make sure that
I know what I am doing before I take this unit apart. I am assuming
that to seal up the tube I have to remove the 4 bolts that hold the
metal frame and lens assembly to the face of the crt and separate the
crt and lens. Then I clean up the surface of the tube, lay a bead of
silicone around the outside of the lens and bolt the whole thing back
together. Sound about right?

It also looks like the only way I can get to the anode cap to clean and
reseal it is to pull the bolts and the metal frame off anyhow.

My major concerns are a: contaminating the coolant somehow and b:
putting everything back together and finding I have an air bubble in
the inside of the lens.

Can someone let me know if I am on the right path for this? Any tips or
tricks would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
James

Grauwulf wrote:
Good day all!

I have a RCA P60152CK rear projection unit that appears to have a
coolant leak in the green picture tube. I have removed the light box
from the unit and removed the green tube and lens assembly from the
light box. I know for sure it is leaking because the coolant that had
accumulated in the anode cap cover ended up in my lap. :|

Anyhow, I have a decent amount of experience working on video game
monitors, but this is my first foray in to projection TV repair. I have
done some reading of previous posts on coolant leaks, but I'm still not
100% certian of the procedure for repairing the leak. I have seen black
and copper RTV mentioned a few times, and I just want to make sure that
I know what I am doing before I take this unit apart. I am assuming
that to seal up the tube I have to remove the 4 bolts that hold the
metal frame and lens assembly to the face of the crt and separate the
crt and lens. Then I clean up the surface of the tube, lay a bead of
silicone around the outside of the lens and bolt the whole thing back
together. Sound about right?

It also looks like the only way I can get to the anode cap to clean and
reseal it is to pull the bolts and the metal frame off anyhow.

My major concerns are a: contaminating the coolant somehow and b:
putting everything back together and finding I have an air bubble in
the inside of the lens.

Can someone let me know if I am on the right path for this? Any tips or
tricks would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
James

You may not have too bad a problem. Was the expansion Boot pushed out?
(Boot & ring With 4 1/4 head screws ) If it was some of these sets
left factttory OVERFILLED with coolant. Lay tube & lense on bench with
this exp boot up, remove the 4 screws If coolant runs out it is
overfull Lower level to about 1/2 to 3/4 inch below point where screws
go in. Clean every thing with alachol Watch for leaks. If the Boot has
a hole in it email me & I send part# for replacement boot Charles

Thanks for the response Charles. The boot is pushed out and judging by
the amount of coolant that came out of the anode area when I removed
the tube/lens assembly from the light box, it has probably been leaking
slightly for a little while.

I will let you know how I make out.

James

wrote:
You may not have too bad a problem. Was the expansion Boot pushed out?
(Boot & ring With 4 1/4 head screws ) If it was some of these sets
left factttory OVERFILLED with coolant. Lay tube & lense on bench with
this exp boot up, remove the 4 screws If coolant runs out it is
overfull Lower level to about 1/2 to 3/4 inch below point where screws
go in. Clean every thing with alachol Watch for leaks. If the Boot has
a hole in it email me & I send part# for replacement boot Charles

You may have to replace the HV Lead & anode connector also ( Was it
arcing? to medal plate with 4 large bolts.) If not just wash up good
with alcahol If arcing I use a slender box knife (one with long
retractable blade to get cup off the tube. Clean good & take a hv lead
& cup off a junker & replace, Use clear silicone (Window & Door) RTV
under new anode cup
Good luck Charles Grob
Grauwulf wrote:
Thanks for the response Charles. The boot is pushed out and judging by
the amount of coolant that came out of the anode area when I removed
the tube/lens assembly from the light box, it has probably been leaking
slightly for a little while.

I will let you know how I make out.

James

wrote:
You may not have too bad a problem. Was the expansion Boot pushed out?
(Boot & ring With 4 1/4 head screws ) If it was some of these sets
left factttory OVERFILLED with coolant. Lay tube & lense on bench with
this exp boot up, remove the 4 screws If coolant runs out it is
overfull Lower level to about 1/2 to 3/4 inch below point where screws
go in. Clean every thing with alachol Watch for leaks. If the Boot has
a hole in it email me & I send part# for replacement boot Charles

Yep, it was definatly arcing to the frame, that was how I discovered
the problem in the first place. There is a small hole in the anode cap
where it was arcing through. I have already sliced the cap from the
tube, but I unfortunatly do not have a scrap tube to take one off of. I
do have some crt arcade monitor flybacks that have good anode leads and
caps on them, but I do not believe that any of the leads are going to
be long enough. What are your thoughs about filling the small hole in
the cap with silicone to insulate it again?

James

wrote:
You may have to replace the HV Lead & anode connector also ( Was it
arcing? to medal plate with 4 large bolts.) If not just wash up good
with alcahol If arcing I use a slender box knife (one with long
retractable blade to get cup off the tube. Clean good & take a hv lead
& cup off a junker & replace, Use clear silicone (Window & Door) RTV
under new anode cup
Good luck Charles Grob

Okay, I have this set back up and running. I ended up putting a new
clip and cap on the anode lead because the old one still arced.
However, now that I have this back together I have a convergence
problem. I can adjust the crosshairs in the test menu convergnce setup
and it's prefect, but the convergence top/bottom and at the edges is
all messed up. This TV supposedly had a good picture before it quit
working. Any suggestions on how to get the convergence back to where it
should be?

Hi,

Interesting, I have gone through a similar path for 2.5 year old
RCA D40w20 40'' rear projection TV... And the convergence at
its sides is also bad, although the center can be perfectly adjusted...

The story: It was given to me as non-working from a co-worker.
Indeed, there was a coolant leak from at least two out of the three
guns. The coolant ended-up on the neck boards at the bottom of the
TV, causing corrosion & circuit damage. The image was full blast red
for a few seconds before the protection circuits were turning the set
off.

I had to replace a few pins in a corroded connector (flat ribbon
cable),
fix an opened corroded copper trace, and replace three parts
(electrolytic cap, resistor & zener diode) on two of the neck boards,
plus clean the boards to remove any trace of that &?@#$ coolant.

While I still have to cure the original coolant fix, the TV now works
well, however the convergence at the sides is quite poor, even though
it can be adjusted perfectly at the center using the set-up menu.

Is there any hidden convergence menu for these TVs ?


Thank you,
Cheers,
- Sylvain in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada


Grauwulf wrote:
Okay, I have this set back up and running. I ended up putting a new
clip and cap on the anode lead because the old one still arced.
However, now that I have this back together I have a convergence
problem. I can adjust the crosshairs in the test menu convergnce setup
and it's prefect, but the convergence top/bottom and at the edges is
all messed up. This TV supposedly had a good picture before it quit
working. Any suggestions on how to get the convergence back to where it
should be?

When you remove a tube it will need fine realignments . If you bumped
the alignment rings while it was out that will cause convergence issues

sg wrote:
Hi,

Interesting, I have gone through a similar path for 2.5 year old
RCA D40w20 40'' rear projection TV... And the convergence at
its sides is also bad, although the center can be perfectly adjusted...

The story: It was given to me as non-working from a co-worker.


2.5 years old and not working and it's a brand name.

To think how some of you call me a moron because I bought a Protron.

"Malissa Baldwin" wrote in message
ups.com...

sg wrote:
Hi,
: It was given to me as non-working from a co-worker.


2.5 years old and not working and it's a brand name.

To think how some of you call me a moron because I bought a Protron.


That's not why.

*PLONK*

Thankfully on this TV there is nothing under the tubes to leak on to.
The light box is big enough that the chassis is all the way to the rear
of the box and not under the tubes in any way. I have spoken to a
reapir shop and they believe that the arcing has damaged the
convergence IC, so I may just end up taking it in to have them get it
set back up for me. I have very little invested in the TV, less than
$75 at this point, so if I have to pay someone a few hundred bucks to
finish the repair, I can probably live with that. I was looking online
locally and you can't touch a DLP RPTV in the same size for under $1k.
But I am going to sit on it until after New Years and see if I can't
fix what I've done. It is quite possible that I bumped the convergence
rings on the tube when I had it out.

James


sg wrote:
Hi,

Interesting, I have gone through a similar path for 2.5 year old
RCA D40w20 40'' rear projection TV... And the convergence at
its sides is also bad, although the center can be perfectly adjusted...

The story: It was given to me as non-working from a co-worker.
Indeed, there was a coolant leak from at least two out of the three
guns. The coolant ended-up on the neck boards at the bottom of the
TV, causing corrosion & circuit damage. The image was full blast red
for a few seconds before the protection circuits were turning the set
off.

I had to replace a few pins in a corroded connector (flat ribbon
cable),
fix an opened corroded copper trace, and replace three parts
(electrolytic cap, resistor & zener diode) on two of the neck boards,
plus clean the boards to remove any trace of that &?@#$ coolant.

While I still have to cure the original coolant fix, the TV now works
well, however the convergence at the sides is quite poor, even though
it can be adjusted perfectly at the center using the set-up menu.

Is there any hidden convergence menu for these TVs ?


Thank you,
Cheers,
- Sylvain in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada


Grauwulf wrote:
Okay, I have this set back up and running. I ended up putting a new
clip and cap on the anode lead because the old one still arced.
However, now that I have this back together I have a convergence
problem. I can adjust the crosshairs in the test menu convergnce setup
and it's prefect, but the convergence top/bottom and at the edges is
all messed up. This TV supposedly had a good picture before it quit
working. Any suggestions on how to get the convergence back to where it
should be?

T Shadow wrote:
"Malissa Baldwin" wrote in message
ups.com...

sg wrote:

Hi,
: It was given to me as non-working from a co-worker.


2.5 years old and not working and it's a brand name.

To think how some of you call me a moron because I bought a Protron.



That's not why.

*PLONK*


plug in the set and hold down the volume down and chennel down till the
set come on you are now in the sevice mode if the center is ok then
scroll down till you get to convergance adjustent and straighten out the
clor or colors that are off if the cnet is not then take off the front
panel and access panel and adjut the centering ring to get is correct
hit clear once and store adjustments and run calibrate and close out
srevice mode you should be allset

Thanks David,

Perfect, I can now adjust most of the convergence issues
using this service mode.

Happy New Year!

Regards,
- Sylvain


David Naylor wrote:

plug in the set and hold down the volume down and chennel down till the
set come on you are now in the sevice mode if the center is ok then
scroll down till you get to convergance adjustent and straighten out the
clor or colors that are off if the cnet is not then take off the front
panel and access panel and adjut the centering ring to get is correct
hit clear once and store adjustments and run calibrate and close out
srevice mode you should be allset