Good day all!

I have a RCA P60152CK rear projection unit that appears to have a
coolant leak in the green picture tube. I have removed the light box
from the unit and removed the green tube and lens assembly from the
light box. I know for sure it is leaking because the coolant that had
accumulated in the anode cap cover ended up in my lap. :|

Anyhow, I have a decent amount of experience working on video game
monitors, but this is my first foray in to projection TV repair. I have
done some reading of previous posts on coolant leaks, but I'm still not
100% certian of the procedure for repairing the leak. I have seen black
and copper RTV mentioned a few times, and I just want to make sure that
I know what I am doing before I take this unit apart. I am assuming
that to seal up the tube I have to remove the 4 bolts that hold the
metal frame and lens assembly to the face of the crt and separate the
crt and lens. Then I clean up the surface of the tube, lay a bead of
silicone around the outside of the lens and bolt the whole thing back
together. Sound about right?

It also looks like the only way I can get to the anode cap to clean and
reseal it is to pull the bolts and the metal frame off anyhow.

My major concerns are a: contaminating the coolant somehow and b:
putting everything back together and finding I have an air bubble in
the inside of the lens.

Can someone let me know if I am on the right path for this? Any tips or
tricks would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
James

Grauwulf wrote:
Good day all!

I have a RCA P60152CK rear projection unit that appears to have a
coolant leak in the green picture tube. I have removed the light box
from the unit and removed the green tube and lens assembly from the
light box. I know for sure it is leaking because the coolant that had
accumulated in the anode cap cover ended up in my lap. :|

Anyhow, I have a decent amount of experience working on video game
monitors, but this is my first foray in to projection TV repair. I have
done some reading of previous posts on coolant leaks, but I'm still not
100% certian of the procedure for repairing the leak. I have seen black
and copper RTV mentioned a few times, and I just want to make sure that
I know what I am doing before I take this unit apart. I am assuming
that to seal up the tube I have to remove the 4 bolts that hold the
metal frame and lens assembly to the face of the crt and separate the
crt and lens. Then I clean up the surface of the tube, lay a bead of
silicone around the outside of the lens and bolt the whole thing back
together. Sound about right?

It also looks like the only way I can get to the anode cap to clean and
reseal it is to pull the bolts and the metal frame off anyhow.

My major concerns are a: contaminating the coolant somehow and b:
putting everything back together and finding I have an air bubble in
the inside of the lens.

Can someone let me know if I am on the right path for this? Any tips or
tricks would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
James

Grauwulf wrote:
Good day all!

I have a RCA P60152CK rear projection unit that appears to have a
coolant leak in the green picture tube. I have removed the light box
from the unit and removed the green tube and lens assembly from the
light box. I know for sure it is leaking because the coolant that had
accumulated in the anode cap cover ended up in my lap. :|

Anyhow, I have a decent amount of experience working on video game
monitors, but this is my first foray in to projection TV repair. I have
done some reading of previous posts on coolant leaks, but I'm still not
100% certian of the procedure for repairing the leak. I have seen black
and copper RTV mentioned a few times, and I just want to make sure that
I know what I am doing before I take this unit apart. I am assuming
that to seal up the tube I have to remove the 4 bolts that hold the
metal frame and lens assembly to the face of the crt and separate the
crt and lens. Then I clean up the surface of the tube, lay a bead of
silicone around the outside of the lens and bolt the whole thing back
together. Sound about right?

It also looks like the only way I can get to the anode cap to clean and
reseal it is to pull the bolts and the metal frame off anyhow.

My major concerns are a: contaminating the coolant somehow and b:
putting everything back together and finding I have an air bubble in
the inside of the lens.

Can someone let me know if I am on the right path for this? Any tips or
tricks would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
James

You may not have too bad a problem. Was the expansion Boot pushed out?
(Boot & ring With 4 1/4 head screws ) If it was some of these sets
left factttory OVERFILLED with coolant. Lay tube & lense on bench with
this exp boot up, remove the 4 screws If coolant runs out it is
overfull Lower level to about 1/2 to 3/4 inch below point where screws
go in. Clean every thing with alachol Watch for leaks. If the Boot has
a hole in it email me & I send part# for replacement boot Charles

Thanks for the response Charles. The boot is pushed out and judging by
the amount of coolant that came out of the anode area when I removed
the tube/lens assembly from the light box, it has probably been leaking
slightly for a little while.

I will let you know how I make out.

James

wrote:
You may not have too bad a problem. Was the expansion Boot pushed out?
(Boot & ring With 4 1/4 head screws ) If it was some of these sets
left factttory OVERFILLED with coolant. Lay tube & lense on bench with
this exp boot up, remove the 4 screws If coolant runs out it is
overfull Lower level to about 1/2 to 3/4 inch below point where screws
go in. Clean every thing with alachol Watch for leaks. If the Boot has
a hole in it email me & I send part# for replacement boot Charles

You may have to replace the HV Lead & anode connector also ( Was it
arcing? to medal plate with 4 large bolts.) If not just wash up good
with alcahol If arcing I use a slender box knife (one with long
retractable blade to get cup off the tube. Clean good & take a hv lead
& cup off a junker & replace, Use clear silicone (Window & Door) RTV
under new anode cup
Good luck Charles Grob
Grauwulf wrote:
Thanks for the response Charles. The boot is pushed out and judging by
the amount of coolant that came out of the anode area when I removed
the tube/lens assembly from the light box, it has probably been leaking
slightly for a little while.

I will let you know how I make out.

James

wrote:
You may not have too bad a problem. Was the expansion Boot pushed out?
(Boot & ring With 4 1/4 head screws ) If it was some of these sets
left factttory OVERFILLED with coolant. Lay tube & lense on bench with
this exp boot up, remove the 4 screws If coolant runs out it is
overfull Lower level to about 1/2 to 3/4 inch below point where screws
go in. Clean every thing with alachol Watch for leaks. If the Boot has
a hole in it email me & I send part# for replacement boot Charles

Yep, it was definatly arcing to the frame, that was how I discovered
the problem in the first place. There is a small hole in the anode cap
where it was arcing through. I have already sliced the cap from the
tube, but I unfortunatly do not have a scrap tube to take one off of. I
do have some crt arcade monitor flybacks that have good anode leads and
caps on them, but I do not believe that any of the leads are going to
be long enough. What are your thoughs about filling the small hole in
the cap with silicone to insulate it again?

James

wrote:
You may have to replace the HV Lead & anode connector also ( Was it
arcing? to medal plate with 4 large bolts.) If not just wash up good
with alcahol If arcing I use a slender box knife (one with long
retractable blade to get cup off the tube. Clean good & take a hv lead
& cup off a junker & replace, Use clear silicone (Window & Door) RTV
under new anode cup
Good luck Charles Grob

Okay, I have this set back up and running. I ended up putting a new
clip and cap on the anode lead because the old one still arced.
However, now that I have this back together I have a convergence
problem. I can adjust the crosshairs in the test menu convergnce setup
and it's prefect, but the convergence top/bottom and at the edges is
all messed up. This TV supposedly had a good picture before it quit
working. Any suggestions on how to get the convergence back to where it
should be?