sci.electronics.repair, rec.bicycles.tech

Leads from the cateye enduro's cyclocomputer body snapped off during
an accident.

I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following the
epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into the
computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder connections
to the bar mount at the epoxy block

Goop is silicone adhesive -

Question is does the goop silicone provide electrical insulation at
this low voltage flow?

The computer stopped recording data after 3-4 miles.

If the Goop is a no go what adhesive is durable and adequate
insulation? What are cateye bodies made of and what adhesive works best
there?

wrote:
sci.electronics.repair, rec.bicycles.tech

Leads from the cateye enduro's cyclocomputer body snapped off during
an accident.

I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following the
epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into the
computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder connections
to the bar mount at the epoxy block

Goop is silicone adhesive -

Question is does the goop silicone provide electrical insulation at
this low voltage flow?

The computer stopped recording data after 3-4 miles.

If the Goop is a no go what adhesive is durable and adequate
insulation? What are cateye bodies made of and what adhesive works best
there?

Any silicone (RTV) that I've worked with is a good insulator when fully
cured.
I wouldn't be surprised if it is somewhat conductive before it is
cured, but I never checked.
I never apply voltage until it is fully cured.

Paul

wrote:
sci.electronics.repair, rec.bicycles.tech

Leads from the cateye enduro's cyclocomputer body snapped off during
an accident.

I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following the
epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into the
computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder connections
to the bar mount at the epoxy block

Goop is silicone adhesive -

Question is does the goop silicone provide electrical insulation at
this low voltage flow?

The computer stopped recording data after 3-4 miles.

If the Goop is a no go what adhesive is durable and adequate
insulation? What are cateye bodies made of and what adhesive works best
there?

Any silicone (RTV) that I've worked with is a good insulator when fully
cured.
I wouldn't be surprised if it is somewhat conductive before it is
cured, but I never checked.
I never apply voltage until it is fully cured.

Paul

In article . com, "Paul" wrote:

wrote:
sci.electronics.repair, rec.bicycles.tech

Leads from the cateye enduro's cyclocomputer body snapped off during
an accident.

I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following the
epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into the
computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder connections
to the bar mount at the epoxy block

Goop is silicone adhesive -

Question is does the goop silicone provide electrical insulation at
this low voltage flow?

The computer stopped recording data after 3-4 miles.

If the Goop is a no go what adhesive is durable and adequate
insulation? What are cateye bodies made of and what adhesive works best
there?

Any silicone (RTV) that I've worked with is a good insulator when fully
cured.
I wouldn't be surprised if it is somewhat conductive before it is
cured, but I never checked.
I never apply voltage until it is fully cured.

Rtv need not be capitalized. Goop is not silicone to me. Its more like a plastic.
I use the different Goops, including Shoe Goo, and I am not going to claim it
has no reaction to conections, but I don't think I have seen problems. If Goop is used in the sun,
it should contain UV inhibitors like Marine Goop has. Goop is one of the strongest
glues, but retains some flex. It takes several days for full cure. Silicone shuld have
no conductivity, allthough it is not a vapor block, where Goop may have a good
vapor lock. Electrical connections should be painted with enamel before
applying silicone.

greg

In article , (GregS) wrote:
In article . com, "Paul"
wrote:

wrote:
sci.electronics.repair, rec.bicycles.tech

Leads from the cateye enduro's cyclocomputer body snapped off during
an accident.

I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following the
epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into the
computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder connections
to the bar mount at the epoxy block

Goop is silicone adhesive -

Question is does the goop silicone provide electrical insulation at
this low voltage flow?

The computer stopped recording data after 3-4 miles.

If the Goop is a no go what adhesive is durable and adequate
insulation? What are cateye bodies made of and what adhesive works best
there?

Any silicone (RTV) that I've worked with is a good insulator when fully
cured.
I wouldn't be surprised if it is somewhat conductive before it is
cured, but I never checked.
I never apply voltage until it is fully cured.


By the way, I have applied HV before curing. it does well, but its
probably better when fully curred.Thats the Type I silicone.

greg

Rtv need not be capitalized. Goop is not silicone to me. Its more like a
plastic.
I use the different Goops, including Shoe Goo, and I am not going to claim it
has no reaction to conections, but I don't think I have seen problems. If Goop
is used in the sun,
it should contain UV inhibitors like Marine Goop has. Goop is one of the
strongest
glues, but retains some flex. It takes several days for full cure. Silicone
shuld have
no conductivity, allthough it is not a vapor block, where Goop may have a good
vapor lock. Electrical connections should be painted with enamel before
applying silicone.

greg

Paul wrote:

Any silicone (RTV) that I've worked with is a good insulator when fully
cured.
I wouldn't be surprised if it is somewhat conductive before it is
cured, but I never checked.
I never apply voltage until it is fully cured.

Paul

Standard GE RTV silicone contains acetic acid which can cause
corrosion. They do make an electronic grade that is safe to use.

I once used standard RTV to cover the line voltage terminals on a power
transformer. I plugged it in before it was fully cured. This caused a
small explosion.which was more exciting than it was dangerous.

On 10 Oct 2006 10:33:21 -0700, wrote:

sci.electronics.repair, rec.bicycles.tech

Leads from the cateye enduro's cyclocomputer body snapped off during
an accident.

I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following the
epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into the
computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder connections
to the bar mount at the epoxy block

Goop is silicone adhesive -

Wrong. Goop is a polypropylene/solvent adhesive.

Question is does the goop [non]silicone provide electrical insulation at
this low voltage flow?

Yes, nicely.

The computer stopped recording data after 3-4 miles.

Look for solder joint failure or a subsequent wire failure elsewhere.

If the Goop is a no go what adhesive is durable and adequate
insulation?

There is a brush-on electrical insulation coating available for this
exact purpose. I've obtained it at Home Depot and Ace Hardware.

What are cateye bodies made of

I don't know; you would have to ask them. I'd expect it to be a
filled resin of some sort, but there are many candidates with varying
charcteristics.

and what adhesive works best
there?

That will be entirely dependent upon the resin involved.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

wrote in message
ups.com...


I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following the
epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into the
computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder connections
to the bar mount at the epoxy block

Did you try Liquid Solder?

wellll, i guess i'll do it over!
"Wrong. Goop is a polypropylene/solvent adhesive. "
does not goop write of goop as a silicone adhesive?
long underwear from duofold is polypropylene, and excellent.
thanks

On Tue, 10 Oct 2006 18:53:08 GMT, Werehatrack
wrote:

On 10 Oct 2006 10:33:21 -0700, wrote:

[snip]

What are cateye bodies made of

I don't know; you would have to ask them. I'd expect it to be a
filled resin of some sort, but there are many candidates with varying
charcteristics.

[snip]

Dear Gloucester,

If we're talking about the stuff inside that keeps the body of a
cateye nice and round, it's known as the vitreous humor:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vitreous_humor

Eye surgeons fear the escape of this vile jelly when removing a cloudy
lens in a cat(aract) operation or any other surgery. "Losing vitreous"
is worse than seeing an inflated tire start to creep off the rim at
120 psi--tubes, after all, can be replaced. So eye cutters try to keep
the stuff pushed inside, where it belongs:

"Cataract surgery was once a much more invasive and hazardous
procedure than it is today. Large incisions and intracapsular lens
extractions were not uncommonly associated with significant vitreous
bulging and even vitreous loss. The situation is well described in
the words of Dr. Paul Honan (1), whose account of the development of
the Honan balloon can be found elsewhere in this issue of OASIS.
Suffice it to say that ocular compression was born of the fear of
losing vitreous during cataract surgery with its attendant
complications resulting in visual compromise or loss. That fear
exists to this day, especially when large incisions are required, as
in corneal transplant surgery and during the occasional ECCE."

http://www.eyeanesthesia.org/newsletter4.html

As for repairing an ordinary cyclocomputer, the easiest solution is to
stop by WalMart and get a new red $10 Schwinn cyclocomputer with a
fresh battery and a trip meter that reads in increments of 0.001
miles.

See you around,

Duke of Cornwall

On Tue, 10 Oct 2006 15:18:20 -0600, wrote:

On Tue, 10 Oct 2006 18:53:08 GMT, Werehatrack
wrote:

On 10 Oct 2006 10:33:21 -0700, wrote:

[snip]

What are cateye bodies made of

I don't know; you would have to ask them. I'd expect it to be a
filled resin of some sort, but there are many candidates with varying
charcteristics.

[snip]

Dear Gloucester,

If we're talking about the stuff inside that keeps the body of a
cateye nice and round, it's known as the vitreous humor:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vitreous_humor

My dear Duke:

Perhaps you may have mistaken the less useful orb (once removed from
its rightful place) for the more enjoyable one:

http://www.tias.com/cgi-bin/google.f...Key=1922956560

Alas, once fractured, it is dashed difficult to heal with certainty
through the employment of any glue made by mortal man, though the
glass-blower's art might remold it somehow.

As for repairing an ordinary cyclocomputer, the easiest solution is to
stop by WalMart and get a new red $10 Schwinn cyclocomputer with a
fresh battery and a trip meter that reads in increments of 0.001
miles.

I am aghast! The mere concept of endorsing the use of a Red computer
is anathema to any left-thinking cyclist, and there is no other kind
with which it is permissible for those of good conscience to
associate.

And as has long been the case, the true gentleman will search long and
hard to locate a computer whose figures are presented in the more
seemly furlongs, a far more appropriate distance to use in judjing
progress aboard something that is ridden astride a saddle, would you
not agree? (Sadly, such devices seem in short supply, so a conversion
table is often needed in order to make sense of the mundane
indications available.)

Yours,

Gloucester
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

wrote:
sci.electronics.repair, rec.bicycles.tech

Leads from the cateye enduro's cyclocomputer body snapped off during
an accident.

I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following the
epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into the
computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder connections
to the bar mount at the epoxy block

If the Goop is a no go what adhesive is durable and adequate
insulation?

I thought Goop was waterless hand cleaner:

www.goophandcleaner.com/images/12cutout_200w.jpg

Have you considered epoxy?

Silicone rubber (RTV) is a good electrical insulator, as demonstrated
by the use of silicone rubber sheets as electrical insulators for power
transistors. But silicone RTV that smells like vinegar before it
cures can corrode metals, and if that's a concern, go to an auto parts
store and get some RTV labelled as being safe for use with oxygen
sensors.

wrote:
sci.electronics.repair, rec.bicycles.tech

Leads from the cateye enduro's cyclocomputer body snapped off during
an accident.

I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following the
epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into the
computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder connections
to the bar mount at the epoxy block

Goop is silicone adhesive -

Question is does the goop silicone provide electrical insulation at
this low voltage flow?

The computer stopped recording data after 3-4 miles.

If the Goop is a no go what adhesive is durable and adequate
insulation? What are cateye bodies made of and what adhesive works best
there?

I don't know, but one thing's for sure; you sound a lot more coherent
than before the accident! Funny, usually it's the other way around.
Glad to hear you are okay.

Doug

wrote: If we're talking about the stuff inside that
keeps the body of a cateye nice and round, it's known as the vitreous humor:
(clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Dear Carl,
Your remark is vitreous humor humor.
Jokes about glazed ceramics would be vitreous humor.
Jokes about my first comment would be vitreous humor humor humor.

wrote:
sci.electronics.repair, rec.bicycles.tech

Leads from the cateye enduro's cyclocomputer body snapped off during
an accident.

I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following the
epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into the
computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder connections
to the bar mount at the epoxy block

Goop is silicone adhesive -

Question is does the goop silicone provide electrical insulation at
this low voltage flow?

The computer stopped recording data after 3-4 miles.

If the Goop is a no go what adhesive is durable and adequate
insulation? What are cateye bodies made of and what adhesive works best
there?



I use clear silicone caulk as insulation on high voltage wiring, I've
tried it up to 30KV and it works great. Not sure about Goop but for low
voltage virtually anything will work.

stupid question # 428

if silicones insulate electrical wires then what are silicone spark
plugs leads (wires)?

wrote:
stupid question # 428

if silicones insulate electrical wires then what are silicone spark
plugs leads (wires)?



They're exactly what the name implies, spark plug leads with silicone
insulation.

spake thus:

stupid question # 428

if silicones insulate electrical wires then what are silicone spark
plugs leads (wires)?

The silicone is the insulator in them; the conductor is, usually,
carbon-impregnated fiber of some kind (basically a big long resistor).


--
Save the Planet
Kill Yourself

- motto of the Church of Euthanasia (http://www.churchofeuthanasia.org/)

pow pow pow pow

On 10 Oct 2006 10:33:21 -0700, wrote:

Leads from the cateye enduro's cyclocomputer body snapped off during
an accident.

I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following the
epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into the
computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder connections
to the bar mount at the epoxy block

My old Mity at one point had too short wires, so I lengthened them simply
by soldering onto the terminals of the bar mount, and then I stuck
silicone sealant in there. Worked perfectly for a long time. The silicone
eventually started to come loose from the bar mount as a little block,
though, rather than staying put.

Jasper

wrote:
sci.electronics.repair, rec.bicycles.tech

Leads from the cateye enduro's cyclocomputer body snapped off during
an accident.

I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following the
epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into the
computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder connections
to the bar mount at the epoxy block

Goop is silicone adhesive -

Question is does the goop silicone provide electrical insulation at
this low voltage flow?

Is it the same stuff they use to pot flyback secondaries? That's
12,000
to 40,000 volts hf.

Father Haskell wrote:
wrote:

sci.electronics.repair, rec.bicycles.tech

Leads from the cateye enduro's cyclocomputer body snapped off during
an accident.

I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following the
epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into the
computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder connections
to the bar mount at the epoxy block

Goop is silicone adhesive -

Question is does the goop silicone provide electrical insulation at
this low voltage flow?


Is it the same stuff they use to pot flyback secondaries? That's
12,000
to 40,000 volts hf.



Flybacks are potted in epoxy resin.

"GregS" wrote in message
...
In article ,
(GregS) wrote:
In article . com,
"Paul"
wrote:

wrote:
sci.electronics.repair, rec.bicycles.tech

Leads from the cateye enduro's cyclocomputer body snapped off
during
an accident.

I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following
the
epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into
the
computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder
connections
to the bar mount at the epoxy block

Goop is silicone adhesive -

Question is does the goop silicone provide electrical insulation
at
this low voltage flow?

The computer stopped recording data after 3-4 miles.

If the Goop is a no go what adhesive is durable and adequate
insulation? What are cateye bodies made of and what adhesive
works best
there?

Any silicone (RTV) that I've worked with is a good insulator when
fully
cured.
I wouldn't be surprised if it is somewhat conductive before it is
cured, but I never checked.
I never apply voltage until it is fully cured.


By the way, I have applied HV before curing. it does well, but its
probably better when fully curred.Thats the Type I silicone.

greg

Rtv need not be capitalized. Goop is not silicone to me. Its more
like a
plastic.
I use the different Goops, including Shoe Goo, and I am not going to
claim it
has no reaction to conections, but I don't think I have seen
problems. If Goop
is used in the sun,
it should contain UV inhibitors like Marine Goop has. Goop is one of
the
strongest
glues, but retains some flex. It takes several days for full cure.
Silicone
shuld have
no conductivity, allthough it is not a vapor block, where Goop may
have a good
vapor lock. Electrical connections should be painted with enamel
before
applying silicone.

greg


Speaking of HV, I can't imagine the voltages in the Cateye causing any
significant electrical stress, and hence any voltage induced failures
even without Goop or some sealant, as long as everything started clean
and stayed clean. I could imagine an additional mechanical problem
having lead to another open circuit due to the three miles of road
vibration. In some such repairs I've tried, I've not been able to
re-solder broken leads/pins with low enough energy to prevent
additional damage. Two reasons for this: too cheap to buy the proper
very-low power soldering system, and not proper skills for such
delicate work. And this after having been certified to solder
according to NASA standards! But nothing in spacecraft back in those
days was as tiny as modern commercial electronics.

Datakoll, I think something else in your Cateye has broken, and it
might or might not be associated with your repair, based on what
you've told us.

Ken

"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

wrote: If we're talking about the stuff
inside that keeps the body of a cateye nice and round, it's known as
the vitreous humor: (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Dear Carl,
Your remark is vitreous humor humor.
Jokes about glazed ceramics would be vitreous humor.
Jokes about my first comment would be vitreous humor humor humor.


This sounds like a joke from Rowan and Martin's Laugh-in.

On Sat, 14 Oct 2006 21:01:15 -0400, "Road Man"
wrote:


"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

wrote: If we're talking about the stuff
inside that keeps the body of a cateye nice and round, it's known as
the vitreous humor: (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Dear Carl,
Your remark is vitreous humor humor.
Jokes about glazed ceramics would be vitreous humor.
Jokes about my first comment would be vitreous humor humor humor.


This sounds like a joke from Rowan and Martin's Laugh-in.

Dear Ken,

By one of those odd coincidences, Dan Rowan was probably the most
famous kid to come out of the McClelland orphanage down the street
from where I live.

Rowan was the one with the moustache and a fistful of medals as a
fighter pilot.

Cheers,

Carl Fogel

Werehatrack wrote:

And as has long been the case, the true gentleman will search long and
hard to locate a computer whose figures are presented in the more
seemly furlongs, a far more appropriate distance to use in judjing
progress aboard something that is ridden astride a saddle, would you
not agree? (Sadly, such devices seem in short supply, so a conversion
table is often needed in order to make sense of the mundane
indications available.)

My Cateye reads in furlongs if I set it to a calibration number of
1069.

Alas, it still reads in decimals, not eights. More work is required.

On Wed, 11 Oct 2006 10:47:36 -0700, David Nebenzahl
wrote:
spake thus:

stupid question # 428

if silicones insulate electrical wires then what are silicone spark
plugs leads (wires)?

The silicone is the insulator in them; the conductor is, usually,
carbon-impregnated fiber of some kind (basically a big long resistor).

Why don't spark plug leads get made out of metal, copper or whatever?

Jasper

In article , Jasper Janssen wrote:
On Wed, 11 Oct 2006 10:47:36 -0700, David Nebenzahl
wrote:
spake thus:

stupid question # 428

if silicones insulate electrical wires then what are silicone spark
plugs leads (wires)?

The silicone is the insulator in them; the conductor is, usually,
carbon-impregnated fiber of some kind (basically a big long resistor).

Why don't spark plug leads get made out of metal, copper or whatever?

They used to be. Might even be able to get racing wires. They generate a
lot of RF interference. Using resistor plugs helped a bit in this case.

greg

greg

On Thu, 02 Nov 2006 16:26:04 -0500, Meat Plow wrote:
On Thu, 02 Nov 2006 19:16:57 +0000, Jasper Janssen Has Frothed:
On Wed, 11 Oct 2006 10:47:36 -0700, David Nebenzahl
wrote:
spake thus:

stupid question # 428

if silicones insulate electrical wires then what are silicone spark
plugs leads (wires)?

The silicone is the insulator in them; the conductor is, usually,
carbon-impregnated fiber of some kind (basically a big long resistor).

Why don't spark plug leads get made out of metal, copper or whatever?

They make lots of RFI.

And they don't when they're made out of resistor wire? Huh. Weird.

Jasper

Jasper Janssen wrote:

On Thu, 02 Nov 2006 16:26:04 -0500, Meat Plow
wrote:
On Thu, 02 Nov 2006 19:16:57 +0000, Jasper Janssen Has Frothed:
On Wed, 11 Oct 2006 10:47:36 -0700, David Nebenzahl
wrote:
spake thus:

stupid question # 428

if silicones insulate electrical wires then what are silicone
spark plugs leads (wires)?

The silicone is the insulator in them; the conductor is, usually,
carbon-impregnated fiber of some kind (basically a big long
resistor).

Why don't spark plug leads get made out of metal, copper or
whatever?

They make lots of RFI.

And they don't when they're made out of resistor wire? Huh. Weird.

Jasper

No, not as much. The resistance built into the length of the lead
chokes of the high frequencies that cause most of the interference !

--
Baron:

Jasper Janssen wrote:

On Thu, 02 Nov 2006 16:26:04 -0500, Meat Plow wrote:
On Thu, 02 Nov 2006 19:16:57 +0000, Jasper Janssen Has Frothed:
On Wed, 11 Oct 2006 10:47:36 -0700, David Nebenzahl
wrote:
spake thus:

stupid question # 428

if silicones insulate electrical wires then what are silicone spark
plugs leads (wires)?

The silicone is the insulator in them; the conductor is, usually,
carbon-impregnated fiber of some kind (basically a big long resistor).

Why don't spark plug leads get made out of metal, copper or whatever?

They make lots of RFI.

And they don't when they're made out of resistor wire? Huh. Weird.


Its not wire. Its conductive carbon fibers.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

On Tue, 07 Nov 2006 10:52:18 GMT, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:
Jasper Janssen wrote:
On Thu, 02 Nov 2006 16:26:04 -0500, Meat Plow wrote:
On Thu, 02 Nov 2006 19:16:57 +0000, Jasper Janssen Has Frothed:

The silicone is the insulator in them; the conductor is, usually,
carbon-impregnated fiber of some kind (basically a big long resistor).

Why don't spark plug leads get made out of metal, copper or whatever?

They make lots of RFI.

And they don't when they're made out of resistor wire? Huh. Weird.

Its not wire. Its conductive carbon fibers.

It's still wire. It's long and it conducts electricity, that's close
enoough for government work. Who cares if it's not technically made out of
metals.

Jasper

Jasper Janssen wrote in
:

Its not wire. Its conductive carbon fibers.

It's still wire. It's long and it conducts electricity, that's close
enoough for government work. Who cares if it's not technically made
out of metals.


Sorry, the Compact Oxford English Dictionary disagrees:

wire

• noun metal drawn out into a thin flexible thread or rod

On Sat, 11 Nov 2006 00:42:41 -0000, Jim Land
wrote:
Jasper Janssen wrote in
:

Its not wire. Its conductive carbon fibers.

It's still wire. It's long and it conducts electricity, that's close
enoough for government work. Who cares if it's not technically made
out of metals.

Sorry, the Compact Oxford English Dictionary disagrees:

Yes, I looked it up, that's why I formulated my post the way I did. So
don't be redundant.

Jasper