"GregS" wrote in message
...
In article ,
(GregS) wrote:
In article . com,
"Paul"
wrote:
wrote:
sci.electronics.repair, rec.bicycles.tech
Leads from the cateye enduro's cyclocomputer body snapped off
during
an accident.
I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following
the
epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into
the
computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder
connections
to the bar mount at the epoxy block
Goop is silicone adhesive -
Question is does the goop silicone provide electrical insulation
at
this low voltage flow?
The computer stopped recording data after 3-4 miles.
If the Goop is a no go what adhesive is durable and adequate
insulation? What are cateye bodies made of and what adhesive
works best
there?
Any silicone (RTV) that I've worked with is a good insulator when
fully
cured.
I wouldn't be surprised if it is somewhat conductive before it is
cured, but I never checked.
I never apply voltage until it is fully cured.
By the way, I have applied HV before curing. it does well, but its
probably better when fully curred.Thats the Type I silicone.
greg
Rtv need not be capitalized. Goop is not silicone to me. Its more
like a
plastic.
I use the different Goops, including Shoe Goo, and I am not going to
claim it
has no reaction to conections, but I don't think I have seen
problems. If Goop
is used in the sun,
it should contain UV inhibitors like Marine Goop has. Goop is one of
the
strongest
glues, but retains some flex. It takes several days for full cure.
Silicone
shuld have
no conductivity, allthough it is not a vapor block, where Goop may
have a good
vapor lock. Electrical connections should be painted with enamel
before
applying silicone.
greg
Speaking of HV, I can't imagine the voltages in the Cateye causing any
significant electrical stress, and hence any voltage induced failures
even without Goop or some sealant, as long as everything started clean
and stayed clean. I could imagine an additional mechanical problem
having lead to another open circuit due to the three miles of road
vibration. In some such repairs I've tried, I've not been able to
re-solder broken leads/pins with low enough energy to prevent
additional damage. Two reasons for this: too cheap to buy the proper
very-low power soldering system, and not proper skills for such
delicate work. And this after having been certified to solder
according to NASA standards! But nothing in spacecraft back in those
days was as tiny as modern commercial electronics.
Datakoll, I think something else in your Cateye has broken, and it
might or might not be associated with your repair, based on what
you've told us.
Ken